Paging RayByrnes and Bugs or any other CC experts!

[Ricechex]

You guys are the greatest!

To FLU: Well, it is perfect condition, BUT, things go wrong. Recently, I needed a new turn signal thing and a Master Cylinder. They had to order the Master Cylinder from Phoenix (which got delivered to Irvine, groan), and the turn signal had to be found at a junkyard, and was still $150. (New from dealer would have been $376) Thus, it took 2 1/2 days in the shop, just waiting on parts. It is a Mazda Protege 1995–136,000 miles. I have had it since 2000.

I want to buy a Mazda 3. They are still made in Japan. I just called them, and they said no to credit cards (conflict–when you buy a car there is no returning it, but if you buy on CC then you have 30 days to return) but they have 0% financing for 36 months, for qualifying buyers, which is me–I have a high FICO score.

Never had a car payment in my life (always buy used cars in cash) and I am SWEATING this. With a hefty car payment, it would restrict me to save for the house I want in the next few years. On the other hand, I work 2 jobs, and cannot have my car out of operation unexpectedly, and for days at a time. What a crossroads…..

[Raybyrnes]

patientlywaiting

“Now if you charge the car, the vendor will pay a discount fee, which he will likely include in the price of the car.”

That’s not true.

The deal has already been made. Whether you use a credit card or not has nothing to do with pricing.

There is not that much negotiating that you need to do if you understand the process.

Eliminate variables. By this I mean there is no trade in, don’t need to worry about financing becasue I have already been preapproved, and I am not looking for a warranty.

Take a look in a local paper or go online to see if there are any Cash rebates. These rebates are provided by the manufacturer not the dealer.

Understand the pricing structure of cars. There are the sticker price represented by MSRP.
Then there is the Invoice Cost. This is typically referred to as dealer cost but it is not a true dealer cost. Built into the invoice cost of a car is 3 additional costs. Those costs include Advertising, Financing and Holdback. Typically advertising and financing are about 1%. Holdback is generally going to be 3% of MSRP.

So putting this together would mean going to a dealer and knowing the invoice price of the car.

Then looking to apply a manufacturer rebate to that invoice cost.

Last by using your own financing in advance you can dimply apply the price of the car to the financing cost you recieved from an outside company and that should get you a pretty good deal.

Typically a good benchmark for a new car purchasemight be Invoice+200-manufacturers rebate.

If you are OK with loss leaders you can usually pick up a sunday paper and jsut walk in and take the deal advertised. Usually these deal Represent the Invoice Cost-advertising-holdback-finace-manufactures rebate. If you are OK with the color selection and option on the car it is a good way to buy.

[Raybyrnes]

patientlywaiting

“Now if you charge the car, the vendor will pay a discount fee, which he will likely include in the price of the car.”

That’s not true.

The deal has already been made. Whether you use a credit card or not has nothing to do with pricing.

There is not that much negotiating that you need to do if you understand the process.

Eliminate variables. By this I mean there is no trade in, don’t need to worry about financing becasue I have already been preapproved, and I am not looking for a warranty.

Take a look in a local paper or go online to see if there are any Cash rebates. These rebates are provided by the manufacturer not the dealer.

Understand the pricing structure of cars. There are the sticker price represented by MSRP.
Then there is the Invoice Cost. This is typically referred to as dealer cost but it is not a true dealer cost. Built into the invoice cost of a car is 3 additional costs. Those costs include Advertising, Financing and Holdback. Typically advertising and financing are about 1%. Holdback is generally going to be 3% of MSRP.

So putting this together would mean going to a dealer and knowing the invoice price of the car.

Then looking to apply a manufacturer rebate to that invoice cost.

Last by using your own financing in advance you can dimply apply the price of the car to the financing cost you recieved from an outside company and that should get you a pretty good deal.

Typically a good benchmark for a new car purchasemight be Invoice+200-manufacturers rebate.

If you are OK with loss leaders you can usually pick up a sunday paper and jsut walk in and take the deal advertised. Usually these deal Represent the Invoice Cost-advertising-holdback-finace-manufactures rebate. If you are OK with the color selection and option on the car it is a good way to buy.

[Raybyrnes]

patientlywaiting

“Now if you charge the car, the vendor will pay a discount fee, which he will likely include in the price of the car.”

That’s not true.

The deal has already been made. Whether you use a credit card or not has nothing to do with pricing.

There is not that much negotiating that you need to do if you understand the process.

Eliminate variables. By this I mean there is no trade in, don’t need to worry about financing becasue I have already been preapproved, and I am not looking for a warranty.

Take a look in a local paper or go online to see if there are any Cash rebates. These rebates are provided by the manufacturer not the dealer.

Understand the pricing structure of cars. There are the sticker price represented by MSRP.
Then there is the Invoice Cost. This is typically referred to as dealer cost but it is not a true dealer cost. Built into the invoice cost of a car is 3 additional costs. Those costs include Advertising, Financing and Holdback. Typically advertising and financing are about 1%. Holdback is generally going to be 3% of MSRP.

So putting this together would mean going to a dealer and knowing the invoice price of the car.

Then looking to apply a manufacturer rebate to that invoice cost.

Last by using your own financing in advance you can dimply apply the price of the car to the financing cost you recieved from an outside company and that should get you a pretty good deal.

Typically a good benchmark for a new car purchasemight be Invoice+200-manufacturers rebate.

If you are OK with loss leaders you can usually pick up a sunday paper and jsut walk in and take the deal advertised. Usually these deal Represent the Invoice Cost-advertising-holdback-finace-manufactures rebate. If you are OK with the color selection and option on the car it is a good way to buy.

[Raybyrnes]

patientlywaiting

“Now if you charge the car, the vendor will pay a discount fee, which he will likely include in the price of the car.”

That’s not true.

The deal has already been made. Whether you use a credit card or not has nothing to do with pricing.

There is not that much negotiating that you need to do if you understand the process.

Eliminate variables. By this I mean there is no trade in, don’t need to worry about financing becasue I have already been preapproved, and I am not looking for a warranty.

Take a look in a local paper or go online to see if there are any Cash rebates. These rebates are provided by the manufacturer not the dealer.

Understand the pricing structure of cars. There are the sticker price represented by MSRP.
Then there is the Invoice Cost. This is typically referred to as dealer cost but it is not a true dealer cost. Built into the invoice cost of a car is 3 additional costs. Those costs include Advertising, Financing and Holdback. Typically advertising and financing are about 1%. Holdback is generally going to be 3% of MSRP.

So putting this together would mean going to a dealer and knowing the invoice price of the car.

Then looking to apply a manufacturer rebate to that invoice cost.

Last by using your own financing in advance you can dimply apply the price of the car to the financing cost you recieved from an outside company and that should get you a pretty good deal.

Typically a good benchmark for a new car purchasemight be Invoice+200-manufacturers rebate.

If you are OK with loss leaders you can usually pick up a sunday paper and jsut walk in and take the deal advertised. Usually these deal Represent the Invoice Cost-advertising-holdback-finace-manufactures rebate. If you are OK with the color selection and option on the car it is a good way to buy.

[Raybyrnes]

patientlywaiting

“Now if you charge the car, the vendor will pay a discount fee, which he will likely include in the price of the car.”

That’s not true.

The deal has already been made. Whether you use a credit card or not has nothing to do with pricing.

There is not that much negotiating that you need to do if you understand the process.

Eliminate variables. By this I mean there is no trade in, don’t need to worry about financing becasue I have already been preapproved, and I am not looking for a warranty.

Take a look in a local paper or go online to see if there are any Cash rebates. These rebates are provided by the manufacturer not the dealer.

Understand the pricing structure of cars. There are the sticker price represented by MSRP.
Then there is the Invoice Cost. This is typically referred to as dealer cost but it is not a true dealer cost. Built into the invoice cost of a car is 3 additional costs. Those costs include Advertising, Financing and Holdback. Typically advertising and financing are about 1%. Holdback is generally going to be 3% of MSRP.

So putting this together would mean going to a dealer and knowing the invoice price of the car.

Then looking to apply a manufacturer rebate to that invoice cost.

Last by using your own financing in advance you can dimply apply the price of the car to the financing cost you recieved from an outside company and that should get you a pretty good deal.

Typically a good benchmark for a new car purchasemight be Invoice+200-manufacturers rebate.

If you are OK with loss leaders you can usually pick up a sunday paper and jsut walk in and take the deal advertised. Usually these deal Represent the Invoice Cost-advertising-holdback-finace-manufactures rebate. If you are OK with the color selection and option on the car it is a good way to buy.

[nostradamus]

I just bought a Mazda on Sunday. John Hine Mazda would not take my Amex and said they don’t accept ccs at all. I had to pay with a check. I was bummed because of the “points” program Amex gives.

[nostradamus]

I just bought a Mazda on Sunday. John Hine Mazda would not take my Amex and said they don’t accept ccs at all. I had to pay with a check. I was bummed because of the “points” program Amex gives.

[nostradamus]

I just bought a Mazda on Sunday. John Hine Mazda would not take my Amex and said they don’t accept ccs at all. I had to pay with a check. I was bummed because of the “points” program Amex gives.

[nostradamus]

I just bought a Mazda on Sunday. John Hine Mazda would not take my Amex and said they don’t accept ccs at all. I had to pay with a check. I was bummed because of the “points” program Amex gives.

[nostradamus]

I just bought a Mazda on Sunday. John Hine Mazda would not take my Amex and said they don’t accept ccs at all. I had to pay with a check. I was bummed because of the “points” program Amex gives.

[djrobsd]

Whatever you do, resist the temptation to buy new. You’ll lose 10-20% the minute you drive it past the curb of the dealership…

I highly recommend looking at a 1-2 year old used model, with low miles, in the certified pre-owned category, every car dealer has a CPO program most come with 100,000 mile warranties including: Toyota, Ford, BMW, Lexus, etc….

Save the depreciation, buy used! Don’t get the GAP coverage (you can buy it online for half the price the delaer charges), DO NOT GET THE CREDIT PROTECTION OR THE LIFE INSURANCE, NO PERMA PLATING OR CLEAR COATING … LOL

Don’t finance it through the dealer, line up your own financing before you go in there…. I don’t think you can put the whole thing on a credit card…

And…. Last but not least, if you do buy new, use a car buying service (they’re free) like Edmunds to help you negotiate the best deal. Pitt the dealers against each other to negotiate the lowest price.

I usually shoot for Invoice… but sometimes you can buy below…

And whatever you do, DONT TRADE YOUR CAR IN, sell it privately.

[djrobsd]

Whatever you do, resist the temptation to buy new. You’ll lose 10-20% the minute you drive it past the curb of the dealership…

I highly recommend looking at a 1-2 year old used model, with low miles, in the certified pre-owned category, every car dealer has a CPO program most come with 100,000 mile warranties including: Toyota, Ford, BMW, Lexus, etc….

Save the depreciation, buy used! Don’t get the GAP coverage (you can buy it online for half the price the delaer charges), DO NOT GET THE CREDIT PROTECTION OR THE LIFE INSURANCE, NO PERMA PLATING OR CLEAR COATING … LOL

Don’t finance it through the dealer, line up your own financing before you go in there…. I don’t think you can put the whole thing on a credit card…

And…. Last but not least, if you do buy new, use a car buying service (they’re free) like Edmunds to help you negotiate the best deal. Pitt the dealers against each other to negotiate the lowest price.

I usually shoot for Invoice… but sometimes you can buy below…

And whatever you do, DONT TRADE YOUR CAR IN, sell it privately.

[djrobsd]

Whatever you do, resist the temptation to buy new. You’ll lose 10-20% the minute you drive it past the curb of the dealership…

I highly recommend looking at a 1-2 year old used model, with low miles, in the certified pre-owned category, every car dealer has a CPO program most come with 100,000 mile warranties including: Toyota, Ford, BMW, Lexus, etc….

Save the depreciation, buy used! Don’t get the GAP coverage (you can buy it online for half the price the delaer charges), DO NOT GET THE CREDIT PROTECTION OR THE LIFE INSURANCE, NO PERMA PLATING OR CLEAR COATING … LOL

Don’t finance it through the dealer, line up your own financing before you go in there…. I don’t think you can put the whole thing on a credit card…

And…. Last but not least, if you do buy new, use a car buying service (they’re free) like Edmunds to help you negotiate the best deal. Pitt the dealers against each other to negotiate the lowest price.

I usually shoot for Invoice… but sometimes you can buy below…

And whatever you do, DONT TRADE YOUR CAR IN, sell it privately.

[djrobsd]

Whatever you do, resist the temptation to buy new. You’ll lose 10-20% the minute you drive it past the curb of the dealership…

I highly recommend looking at a 1-2 year old used model, with low miles, in the certified pre-owned category, every car dealer has a CPO program most come with 100,000 mile warranties including: Toyota, Ford, BMW, Lexus, etc….

Save the depreciation, buy used! Don’t get the GAP coverage (you can buy it online for half the price the delaer charges), DO NOT GET THE CREDIT PROTECTION OR THE LIFE INSURANCE, NO PERMA PLATING OR CLEAR COATING … LOL

Don’t finance it through the dealer, line up your own financing before you go in there…. I don’t think you can put the whole thing on a credit card…

And…. Last but not least, if you do buy new, use a car buying service (they’re free) like Edmunds to help you negotiate the best deal. Pitt the dealers against each other to negotiate the lowest price.

I usually shoot for Invoice… but sometimes you can buy below…

And whatever you do, DONT TRADE YOUR CAR IN, sell it privately.

[Author]

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