Paging RayByrnes and Bugs or any other CC experts!

[Coronita]

Depending on the make and model, dealers typically allow you to charge anywhere from $1k-$5 for a new car. Don't know for used, because I never bought a used car.

 

My car is in perfect condition and has been well serviced over the years, but every time it goes in the shop, it takes a few days, because they CAN'T get parts cause the car is 12 years old. So, I gotta get a new car, creates too many problems for me when I don't have an operating vehicle.

it's kinda of funny that you used "my car is in perfect condition"  and "can't get parts" in the same sentence. It was amusing. Anyway, mind if I ask what kind of car it is? As a hobby I'm sort of a car junkie?

 

[NotCranky]

You could transfer the zero percent CC to your checking and then draft a check against it. This doesn’t help you get the the rebates on your original card though. I doubt you get rebated for checking deposits of that card? If you can, maybe you make a cash advance against on it to your checking and then cover that with the zero?

[NotCranky]

You could transfer the zero percent CC to your checking and then draft a check against it. This doesn’t help you get the the rebates on your original card though. I doubt you get rebated for checking deposits of that card? If you can, maybe you make a cash advance against on it to your checking and then cover that with the zero?

[NotCranky]

You could transfer the zero percent CC to your checking and then draft a check against it. This doesn’t help you get the the rebates on your original card though. I doubt you get rebated for checking deposits of that card? If you can, maybe you make a cash advance against on it to your checking and then cover that with the zero?

[NotCranky]

You could transfer the zero percent CC to your checking and then draft a check against it. This doesn’t help you get the the rebates on your original card though. I doubt you get rebated for checking deposits of that card? If you can, maybe you make a cash advance against on it to your checking and then cover that with the zero?

[NotCranky]

You could transfer the zero percent CC to your checking and then draft a check against it. This doesn’t help you get the the rebates on your original card though. I doubt you get rebated for checking deposits of that card? If you can, maybe you make a cash advance against on it to your checking and then cover that with the zero?

[patientlywaiting]

You won’t rebates on transfer and cash advance.

Now if you charge the car, the vendor will pay a discount fee, which he will likely include in the price of the car. So, you may not know it, but either way, you pay the same. Dealers have profit margin requirements just like any other business.

If you’re a good negotiator, then you’ll get the best deal. BTW, a take-it-or-leave-it attitude generally won’t get you a better deal. Be prepared to spend a couple of hours negotiating. Think of it as a game for entertainment purposes.

[patientlywaiting]

You won’t rebates on transfer and cash advance.

Now if you charge the car, the vendor will pay a discount fee, which he will likely include in the price of the car. So, you may not know it, but either way, you pay the same. Dealers have profit margin requirements just like any other business.

If you’re a good negotiator, then you’ll get the best deal. BTW, a take-it-or-leave-it attitude generally won’t get you a better deal. Be prepared to spend a couple of hours negotiating. Think of it as a game for entertainment purposes.

[patientlywaiting]

You won’t rebates on transfer and cash advance.

Now if you charge the car, the vendor will pay a discount fee, which he will likely include in the price of the car. So, you may not know it, but either way, you pay the same. Dealers have profit margin requirements just like any other business.

If you’re a good negotiator, then you’ll get the best deal. BTW, a take-it-or-leave-it attitude generally won’t get you a better deal. Be prepared to spend a couple of hours negotiating. Think of it as a game for entertainment purposes.

[patientlywaiting]

You won’t rebates on transfer and cash advance.

Now if you charge the car, the vendor will pay a discount fee, which he will likely include in the price of the car. So, you may not know it, but either way, you pay the same. Dealers have profit margin requirements just like any other business.

If you’re a good negotiator, then you’ll get the best deal. BTW, a take-it-or-leave-it attitude generally won’t get you a better deal. Be prepared to spend a couple of hours negotiating. Think of it as a game for entertainment purposes.

[patientlywaiting]

You won’t rebates on transfer and cash advance.

Now if you charge the car, the vendor will pay a discount fee, which he will likely include in the price of the car. So, you may not know it, but either way, you pay the same. Dealers have profit margin requirements just like any other business.

If you’re a good negotiator, then you’ll get the best deal. BTW, a take-it-or-leave-it attitude generally won’t get you a better deal. Be prepared to spend a couple of hours negotiating. Think of it as a game for entertainment purposes.

[Ricechex]

You guys are the greatest!

To FLU: Well, it is perfect condition, BUT, things go wrong. Recently, I needed a new turn signal thing and a Master Cylinder. They had to order the Master Cylinder from Phoenix (which got delivered to Irvine, groan), and the turn signal had to be found at a junkyard, and was still $150. (New from dealer would have been $376) Thus, it took 2 1/2 days in the shop, just waiting on parts. It is a Mazda Protege 1995–136,000 miles. I have had it since 2000.

I want to buy a Mazda 3. They are still made in Japan. I just called them, and they said no to credit cards (conflict–when you buy a car there is no returning it, but if you buy on CC then you have 30 days to return) but they have 0% financing for 36 months, for qualifying buyers, which is me–I have a high FICO score.

Never had a car payment in my life (always buy used cars in cash) and I am SWEATING this. With a hefty car payment, it would restrict me to save for the house I want in the next few years. On the other hand, I work 2 jobs, and cannot have my car out of operation unexpectedly, and for days at a time. What a crossroads…..

[Ricechex]

You guys are the greatest!

To FLU: Well, it is perfect condition, BUT, things go wrong. Recently, I needed a new turn signal thing and a Master Cylinder. They had to order the Master Cylinder from Phoenix (which got delivered to Irvine, groan), and the turn signal had to be found at a junkyard, and was still $150. (New from dealer would have been $376) Thus, it took 2 1/2 days in the shop, just waiting on parts. It is a Mazda Protege 1995–136,000 miles. I have had it since 2000.

I want to buy a Mazda 3. They are still made in Japan. I just called them, and they said no to credit cards (conflict–when you buy a car there is no returning it, but if you buy on CC then you have 30 days to return) but they have 0% financing for 36 months, for qualifying buyers, which is me–I have a high FICO score.

Never had a car payment in my life (always buy used cars in cash) and I am SWEATING this. With a hefty car payment, it would restrict me to save for the house I want in the next few years. On the other hand, I work 2 jobs, and cannot have my car out of operation unexpectedly, and for days at a time. What a crossroads…..

[Ricechex]

You guys are the greatest!

To FLU: Well, it is perfect condition, BUT, things go wrong. Recently, I needed a new turn signal thing and a Master Cylinder. They had to order the Master Cylinder from Phoenix (which got delivered to Irvine, groan), and the turn signal had to be found at a junkyard, and was still $150. (New from dealer would have been $376) Thus, it took 2 1/2 days in the shop, just waiting on parts. It is a Mazda Protege 1995–136,000 miles. I have had it since 2000.

I want to buy a Mazda 3. They are still made in Japan. I just called them, and they said no to credit cards (conflict–when you buy a car there is no returning it, but if you buy on CC then you have 30 days to return) but they have 0% financing for 36 months, for qualifying buyers, which is me–I have a high FICO score.

Never had a car payment in my life (always buy used cars in cash) and I am SWEATING this. With a hefty car payment, it would restrict me to save for the house I want in the next few years. On the other hand, I work 2 jobs, and cannot have my car out of operation unexpectedly, and for days at a time. What a crossroads…..

[Ricechex]

You guys are the greatest!

To FLU: Well, it is perfect condition, BUT, things go wrong. Recently, I needed a new turn signal thing and a Master Cylinder. They had to order the Master Cylinder from Phoenix (which got delivered to Irvine, groan), and the turn signal had to be found at a junkyard, and was still $150. (New from dealer would have been $376) Thus, it took 2 1/2 days in the shop, just waiting on parts. It is a Mazda Protege 1995–136,000 miles. I have had it since 2000.

I want to buy a Mazda 3. They are still made in Japan. I just called them, and they said no to credit cards (conflict–when you buy a car there is no returning it, but if you buy on CC then you have 30 days to return) but they have 0% financing for 36 months, for qualifying buyers, which is me–I have a high FICO score.

Never had a car payment in my life (always buy used cars in cash) and I am SWEATING this. With a hefty car payment, it would restrict me to save for the house I want in the next few years. On the other hand, I work 2 jobs, and cannot have my car out of operation unexpectedly, and for days at a time. What a crossroads…..

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