Paging RayByrnes and Bugs or any other CC experts!

[Ricechex]

To my dismay I need to buy a car. My car is in perfect condition and has been well serviced over the years, but every time it goes in the shop, it takes a few days, because they CAN’T get parts cause the car is 12 years old. So, I gotta get a new car, creates too many problems for me when I don’t have an operating vehicle.

Anyway…so I am thinking about charging the car. I have never bought a new car—do you know if auto dealers take MasterCard? I would charge it on my cash rebate Mastercard, and then transfer balance to one of those 0% APY cards, and keep moving it around until I pay it off.

Any comments or better ideas?

[noone]

Most car dealers will take a credit card. Your plan can work, but you need to stay on top of it! One late payment can make the whole thing backfire. Credit card companies love to pile on interest charges and late fees. Also make sure you’ve got things covered in case one of the balance transfers doesn’t go through, or takes longer than you anticipated.

I know myself well enough to know that this would not work for me. At least once every year or two, I tend to forget about one payment or another and end up paying something late. I’m better off paying cash, or finding the lowest interest rate I can. Credit unions usually have pretty good auto loan rates.

[noone]

Most car dealers will take a credit card. Your plan can work, but you need to stay on top of it! One late payment can make the whole thing backfire. Credit card companies love to pile on interest charges and late fees. Also make sure you’ve got things covered in case one of the balance transfers doesn’t go through, or takes longer than you anticipated.

I know myself well enough to know that this would not work for me. At least once every year or two, I tend to forget about one payment or another and end up paying something late. I’m better off paying cash, or finding the lowest interest rate I can. Credit unions usually have pretty good auto loan rates.

[noone]

Most car dealers will take a credit card. Your plan can work, but you need to stay on top of it! One late payment can make the whole thing backfire. Credit card companies love to pile on interest charges and late fees. Also make sure you’ve got things covered in case one of the balance transfers doesn’t go through, or takes longer than you anticipated.

I know myself well enough to know that this would not work for me. At least once every year or two, I tend to forget about one payment or another and end up paying something late. I’m better off paying cash, or finding the lowest interest rate I can. Credit unions usually have pretty good auto loan rates.

[noone]

Most car dealers will take a credit card. Your plan can work, but you need to stay on top of it! One late payment can make the whole thing backfire. Credit card companies love to pile on interest charges and late fees. Also make sure you’ve got things covered in case one of the balance transfers doesn’t go through, or takes longer than you anticipated.

I know myself well enough to know that this would not work for me. At least once every year or two, I tend to forget about one payment or another and end up paying something late. I’m better off paying cash, or finding the lowest interest rate I can. Credit unions usually have pretty good auto loan rates.

[noone]

Most car dealers will take a credit card. Your plan can work, but you need to stay on top of it! One late payment can make the whole thing backfire. Credit card companies love to pile on interest charges and late fees. Also make sure you’ve got things covered in case one of the balance transfers doesn’t go through, or takes longer than you anticipated.

I know myself well enough to know that this would not work for me. At least once every year or two, I tend to forget about one payment or another and end up paying something late. I’m better off paying cash, or finding the lowest interest rate I can. Credit unions usually have pretty good auto loan rates.

[Raybyrnes]

Ricechex

I believe they will only allow you to pay up to $3000 on a credit card purchase for a car so if you have a 0 % deal I see nothing wrong with that and in fact it is what I did when I purchased my own car. There is some strange law about impulsive buy that limit the amount the a dealer can accept on credit card.

I would work on getting preapproved before going to the dealer. I have used COSTCO which has a partnership with Capital One. I have found the blank check program is very easy and provides me with leverage in negotiatiating.

A recent discovery Pentagon Federal Credit Union.

https://www.penfed.org/productsAndRates/loans/vehicleLoans/autoLoans.asp

You can gain access to the credit union by paying a 20$ fee. The rates quoted on new car purchase are 5.29% on up to 72 months financed.

This is a good time of year to buy a car. Your decision should start by identifying whether you are going to go with the 07 or 08 model. The benefit to the 07 is that they usually come with good cash rebates. The downside is that if you look to sell it, it is already a 1 year old car.
T
he 08 model is beneficial when you have a shorter holding period. If you keep you car for 3 years you can sell it in 2010 as a 2 year old vehicle as opposed to 3 years old which reduces your holding costs.

What type of cars are you considering?

[NotCranky]

You could transfer the zero percent CC to your checking and then draft a check against it. This doesn’t help you get the the rebates on your original card though. I doubt you get rebated for checking deposits of that card? If you can, maybe you make a cash advance against on it to your checking and then cover that with the zero?

[patientlywaiting]

You won’t rebates on transfer and cash advance.

Now if you charge the car, the vendor will pay a discount fee, which he will likely include in the price of the car. So, you may not know it, but either way, you pay the same. Dealers have profit margin requirements just like any other business.

If you’re a good negotiator, then you’ll get the best deal. BTW, a take-it-or-leave-it attitude generally won’t get you a better deal. Be prepared to spend a couple of hours negotiating. Think of it as a game for entertainment purposes.

[Ricechex]

You guys are the greatest!

To FLU: Well, it is perfect condition, BUT, things go wrong. Recently, I needed a new turn signal thing and a Master Cylinder. They had to order the Master Cylinder from Phoenix (which got delivered to Irvine, groan), and the turn signal had to be found at a junkyard, and was still $150. (New from dealer would have been $376) Thus, it took 2 1/2 days in the shop, just waiting on parts. It is a Mazda Protege 1995–136,000 miles. I have had it since 2000.

I want to buy a Mazda 3. They are still made in Japan. I just called them, and they said no to credit cards (conflict–when you buy a car there is no returning it, but if you buy on CC then you have 30 days to return) but they have 0% financing for 36 months, for qualifying buyers, which is me–I have a high FICO score.

Never had a car payment in my life (always buy used cars in cash) and I am SWEATING this. With a hefty car payment, it would restrict me to save for the house I want in the next few years. On the other hand, I work 2 jobs, and cannot have my car out of operation unexpectedly, and for days at a time. What a crossroads…..

[Raybyrnes]

Ricechex

0% financing is typically a bad deal because if you lock in on the financing you lose your ability to negotiate on the price. When people get all excited about one aspect of the transaction they make a big mistake.

Think of it like 20 k at 0% or 17K at 5%.

Right now Mazda is only offering 0% on 36 months. There is currently a $500 bebate available regardless of who you use for financing.

I have found San Diego to have limited competition so you may want to pick up pricing form a couple of out of town dealerships that are higher volum. Ask to speak with the fleet department

Puente Hills Mazda 6269657500 146
Villa Mazda 9097652700
Irvine Mazda 9495839900 260

Find Out where they are relative to invoice and then figure the you ahve an addiitonal 500 back of that price becaseu of the rebate available.

Combine that sales price with the finannicing you can get on you own and I will be it will will be a hell of a lot better than simple taking MSRP and the 0% financing.

Good Luck

If you like the Mazda 3 I am surprized you did not take a look at teh Mercury Milan/ Ford Fusion. That is a lot of car for the price. I guess that comes down to what you like but I look at these cars as a fairly competitive deal at the moment.

[Raybyrnes]

Ricechex

0% financing is typically a bad deal because if you lock in on the financing you lose your ability to negotiate on the price. When people get all excited about one aspect of the transaction they make a big mistake.

Think of it like 20 k at 0% or 17K at 5%.

Right now Mazda is only offering 0% on 36 months. There is currently a $500 bebate available regardless of who you use for financing.

I have found San Diego to have limited competition so you may want to pick up pricing form a couple of out of town dealerships that are higher volum. Ask to speak with the fleet department

Puente Hills Mazda 6269657500 146
Villa Mazda 9097652700
Irvine Mazda 9495839900 260

Find Out where they are relative to invoice and then figure the you ahve an addiitonal 500 back of that price becaseu of the rebate available.

Combine that sales price with the finannicing you can get on you own and I will be it will will be a hell of a lot better than simple taking MSRP and the 0% financing.

Good Luck

If you like the Mazda 3 I am surprized you did not take a look at teh Mercury Milan/ Ford Fusion. That is a lot of car for the price. I guess that comes down to what you like but I look at these cars as a fairly competitive deal at the moment.

[Raybyrnes]

Ricechex

0% financing is typically a bad deal because if you lock in on the financing you lose your ability to negotiate on the price. When people get all excited about one aspect of the transaction they make a big mistake.

Think of it like 20 k at 0% or 17K at 5%.

Right now Mazda is only offering 0% on 36 months. There is currently a $500 bebate available regardless of who you use for financing.

I have found San Diego to have limited competition so you may want to pick up pricing form a couple of out of town dealerships that are higher volum. Ask to speak with the fleet department

Puente Hills Mazda 6269657500 146
Villa Mazda 9097652700
Irvine Mazda 9495839900 260

Find Out where they are relative to invoice and then figure the you ahve an addiitonal 500 back of that price becaseu of the rebate available.

Combine that sales price with the finannicing you can get on you own and I will be it will will be a hell of a lot better than simple taking MSRP and the 0% financing.

Good Luck

If you like the Mazda 3 I am surprized you did not take a look at teh Mercury Milan/ Ford Fusion. That is a lot of car for the price. I guess that comes down to what you like but I look at these cars as a fairly competitive deal at the moment.

[Raybyrnes]

Ricechex

0% financing is typically a bad deal because if you lock in on the financing you lose your ability to negotiate on the price. When people get all excited about one aspect of the transaction they make a big mistake.

Think of it like 20 k at 0% or 17K at 5%.

Right now Mazda is only offering 0% on 36 months. There is currently a $500 bebate available regardless of who you use for financing.

I have found San Diego to have limited competition so you may want to pick up pricing form a couple of out of town dealerships that are higher volum. Ask to speak with the fleet department

Puente Hills Mazda 6269657500 146
Villa Mazda 9097652700
Irvine Mazda 9495839900 260

Find Out where they are relative to invoice and then figure the you ahve an addiitonal 500 back of that price becaseu of the rebate available.

Combine that sales price with the finannicing you can get on you own and I will be it will will be a hell of a lot better than simple taking MSRP and the 0% financing.

Good Luck

If you like the Mazda 3 I am surprized you did not take a look at teh Mercury Milan/ Ford Fusion. That is a lot of car for the price. I guess that comes down to what you like but I look at these cars as a fairly competitive deal at the moment.

[Raybyrnes]

Ricechex

0% financing is typically a bad deal because if you lock in on the financing you lose your ability to negotiate on the price. When people get all excited about one aspect of the transaction they make a big mistake.

Think of it like 20 k at 0% or 17K at 5%.

Right now Mazda is only offering 0% on 36 months. There is currently a $500 bebate available regardless of who you use for financing.

I have found San Diego to have limited competition so you may want to pick up pricing form a couple of out of town dealerships that are higher volum. Ask to speak with the fleet department

Puente Hills Mazda 6269657500 146
Villa Mazda 9097652700
Irvine Mazda 9495839900 260

Find Out where they are relative to invoice and then figure the you ahve an addiitonal 500 back of that price becaseu of the rebate available.

Combine that sales price with the finannicing you can get on you own and I will be it will will be a hell of a lot better than simple taking MSRP and the 0% financing.

Good Luck

If you like the Mazda 3 I am surprized you did not take a look at teh Mercury Milan/ Ford Fusion. That is a lot of car for the price. I guess that comes down to what you like but I look at these cars as a fairly competitive deal at the moment.

[Coronita]

You guys are the greatest!

To FLU: Well, it is perfect condition, BUT, things go wrong. Recently, I needed a new turn signal thing and a Master Cylinder. They had to order the Master Cylinder from Phoenix (which got delivered to Irvine, groan), and the turn signal had to be found at a junkyard, and was still $150. (New from dealer would have been $376) Thus, it took 2 1/2 days in the shop, just waiting on parts. It is a Mazda Protege 1995–136,000 miles. I have had it since 2000.

I want to buy a Mazda 3. They are still made in Japan. I just called them, and they said no to credit cards (conflict–when you buy a car there is no returning it, but if you buy on CC then you have 30 days to return) but they have 0% financing for 36 months, for qualifying buyers, which is me–I have a high FICO score.

Never had a car payment in my life (always buy used cars in cash) and I am SWEATING this. With a hefty car payment, it would restrict me to save for the house I want in the next few years. On the other hand, I work 2 jobs, and cannot have my car out of operation unexpectedly, and for days at a time. What a crossroads…..

 

I think you might consider getting another mechanic. While your car isn't considered new. It's not exactly old to warrant having trouble finding parts. A master cylinder for your car shouldn't be hard to source..If fact, you could order it yourself online and have it shipped to you freww without take. Shouldn't have cost you more than $120-$150, and labor on these cars shouldn't be that much because they are not that difficult to work on. Try working on a german car, and you'll know what I mean.

 

For example, http://www.car-stuff.com/store/?N=1667+4294967006+11062+9182. 

If you are around Miramar, I would recommend you take it to a person called GWin http://yp.yahoo.com/py/ypMap.py?tuid=9447857&tcat=7844597&city=San+Diego&state=CA&zip=92130&uzip=92130&msa=7320&slt=32.949900&sln=-117.211100&cs=5&stat=:pos:0:regular:regT:1:fbT:0

Chinese-Vietnamese dude that does a relatively decent job at a pretty cheap price. Opened on saturdays. Oil changes with filter are like $15. Other services are pretty cheap, decent labor rates. (Though, don't undestimate this dude's net worth. He lives in carmel valley and sends his kids to private schools. No I don't know him personally. Ran into him a few times in CV on sundays). I use to take my japanese beaters before we sold them.

Save some money and save up on the house. If you must buy a new car, perhaps consider a Hyundai. I wouldn't mind buying a Sonota these days as a commuter/heavy use car.  I think the designs are looking pretty good, the safety rating is good, and you can't beat the warranty. The Korean car manufacturers have really caught up. Japanese cars are SO overrated these days. Look at how many times Toyota has issued recalls. The other thing you want to watch out for if you decide to buy a used Mazda 3. Make sure it's not one of them that they recovered from the Cougar Ace

 

http://www.autoblog.com/2006/08/27/cougar-ace-could-some-of-her-mazdas-be-saleable/ 

 

 

 

 

[jamsvet]

Take a good look at the car mags and see what they recommend. The Mazdaspeed3 is a great car and comes highly recommended. I’ve bought used if its the right car and the right price. New if its high performance or highly in demand. Don’t take what the dealer has on the lot unless its EXACTLY what you want. Remember that you will have it for a long time. Get what you want. I’m a car nut and hate to see people settle for an appliance when you can have an experience.

[nostradamus]

I went to all three SD Mazda dealers (Escondido, National City, and Hotel Circle). John Hine (hotel circle) had the exact model, color, and features I wanted in a car that had never been even test driven before, based on the odometer reading. I don’t finance and they seemed so happy to accept payment in full that they didn’t even give me BS about the price I wanted, they just gave it. They usually do that “let me talk to my manager” thing.

Jeeze, I’m starting to sound like I work for John Hine. Anyway, I love the Mazda (or perhaps this is just my self-affirmation a la AAngel). I also liked the Honda CR-V a lot and am kind of sad to be selling it after 10 years (I really need to get a wife).

[nostradamus]

I went to all three SD Mazda dealers (Escondido, National City, and Hotel Circle). John Hine (hotel circle) had the exact model, color, and features I wanted in a car that had never been even test driven before, based on the odometer reading. I don’t finance and they seemed so happy to accept payment in full that they didn’t even give me BS about the price I wanted, they just gave it. They usually do that “let me talk to my manager” thing.

Jeeze, I’m starting to sound like I work for John Hine. Anyway, I love the Mazda (or perhaps this is just my self-affirmation a la AAngel). I also liked the Honda CR-V a lot and am kind of sad to be selling it after 10 years (I really need to get a wife).

[nostradamus]

I went to all three SD Mazda dealers (Escondido, National City, and Hotel Circle). John Hine (hotel circle) had the exact model, color, and features I wanted in a car that had never been even test driven before, based on the odometer reading. I don’t finance and they seemed so happy to accept payment in full that they didn’t even give me BS about the price I wanted, they just gave it. They usually do that “let me talk to my manager” thing.

Jeeze, I’m starting to sound like I work for John Hine. Anyway, I love the Mazda (or perhaps this is just my self-affirmation a la AAngel). I also liked the Honda CR-V a lot and am kind of sad to be selling it after 10 years (I really need to get a wife).

[nostradamus]

I went to all three SD Mazda dealers (Escondido, National City, and Hotel Circle). John Hine (hotel circle) had the exact model, color, and features I wanted in a car that had never been even test driven before, based on the odometer reading. I don’t finance and they seemed so happy to accept payment in full that they didn’t even give me BS about the price I wanted, they just gave it. They usually do that “let me talk to my manager” thing.

Jeeze, I’m starting to sound like I work for John Hine. Anyway, I love the Mazda (or perhaps this is just my self-affirmation a la AAngel). I also liked the Honda CR-V a lot and am kind of sad to be selling it after 10 years (I really need to get a wife).

[nostradamus]

I went to all three SD Mazda dealers (Escondido, National City, and Hotel Circle). John Hine (hotel circle) had the exact model, color, and features I wanted in a car that had never been even test driven before, based on the odometer reading. I don’t finance and they seemed so happy to accept payment in full that they didn’t even give me BS about the price I wanted, they just gave it. They usually do that “let me talk to my manager” thing.

Jeeze, I’m starting to sound like I work for John Hine. Anyway, I love the Mazda (or perhaps this is just my self-affirmation a la AAngel). I also liked the Honda CR-V a lot and am kind of sad to be selling it after 10 years (I really need to get a wife).

[Raybyrnes]

My brother has a Mazda 3 and likes it. It is extremely well rated. I can’t even look at the the Mazda3 or the Civic because I don’t fit comfortable. I had to bump up the the 2 door Accord back in 2000 when I bought my car. I still like the styling better than the new accord body lines. 97000 miles and never had a problem with the car.

My only gripe on cars liek Honda’s are that 7 years after they remodel the cars they stop carring parts which increases the probability of theft. I have had 2 Accords stolen on me. Pisses me off but hey that’s what insurance is for.

[Coronita]

My brother has a Mazda 3 and likes it. It is extremely well rated. I can't even look at the the Mazda3 or the Civic because I don't fit comfortable. I had to bump up the the 2 door Accord back in 2000 when I bought my car. I still like the styling better than the new accord body lines. 97000 miles and never had a problem with the car.

My only gripe on cars liek Honda's are that 7 years after they remodel the cars they stop carring parts which increases the probability of theft. I have had 2 Accords stolen on me. Pisses me off but hey that's what insurance is for.

 

There is a reason for this. Actually, Accords and Civics are pretty expensive to insure. A lot of the wannabe-racer-dudes (i won't use the derogatory term to describe them) with civics and accords often steal them to rip off the parts for cars they screw up trying to race. Or the make their hondas look like they can race (for example, the fart can exhausts, the cut springs, the bling bling wheels…We've all seen them on the roads). The problem is that Honda parts are so interchangeable, a used honda chopped up is much more valuable than the car itself. Had someone have his instrument cluster in a Honda stolen while parked in his apartment, because some of the lower trim DX models don't have the tachometer and a lot of those wannabe-racer-dudes want a tachometer in a DX trim, even though the car is an automatic. But at least they were nice and didn't smash the dash to rip it out..The actually  spent the time to disassembled the dash and left all the screws and trim fittings in the car  for us to reassemble.

 

 

[Coronita]

My brother has a Mazda 3 and likes it. It is extremely well rated. I can't even look at the the Mazda3 or the Civic because I don't fit comfortable. I had to bump up the the 2 door Accord back in 2000 when I bought my car. I still like the styling better than the new accord body lines. 97000 miles and never had a problem with the car.

My only gripe on cars liek Honda's are that 7 years after they remodel the cars they stop carring parts which increases the probability of theft. I have had 2 Accords stolen on me. Pisses me off but hey that's what insurance is for.

 

There is a reason for this. Actually, Accords and Civics are pretty expensive to insure. A lot of the wannabe-racer-dudes (i won't use the derogatory term to describe them) with civics and accords often steal them to rip off the parts for cars they screw up trying to race. Or the make their hondas look like they can race (for example, the fart can exhausts, the cut springs, the bling bling wheels…We've all seen them on the roads). The problem is that Honda parts are so interchangeable, a used honda chopped up is much more valuable than the car itself. Had someone have his instrument cluster in a Honda stolen while parked in his apartment, because some of the lower trim DX models don't have the tachometer and a lot of those wannabe-racer-dudes want a tachometer in a DX trim, even though the car is an automatic. But at least they were nice and didn't smash the dash to rip it out..The actually  spent the time to disassembled the dash and left all the screws and trim fittings in the car  for us to reassemble.

 

 

[Coronita]

My brother has a Mazda 3 and likes it. It is extremely well rated. I can't even look at the the Mazda3 or the Civic because I don't fit comfortable. I had to bump up the the 2 door Accord back in 2000 when I bought my car. I still like the styling better than the new accord body lines. 97000 miles and never had a problem with the car.

My only gripe on cars liek Honda's are that 7 years after they remodel the cars they stop carring parts which increases the probability of theft. I have had 2 Accords stolen on me. Pisses me off but hey that's what insurance is for.

 

There is a reason for this. Actually, Accords and Civics are pretty expensive to insure. A lot of the wannabe-racer-dudes (i won't use the derogatory term to describe them) with civics and accords often steal them to rip off the parts for cars they screw up trying to race. Or the make their hondas look like they can race (for example, the fart can exhausts, the cut springs, the bling bling wheels…We've all seen them on the roads). The problem is that Honda parts are so interchangeable, a used honda chopped up is much more valuable than the car itself. Had someone have his instrument cluster in a Honda stolen while parked in his apartment, because some of the lower trim DX models don't have the tachometer and a lot of those wannabe-racer-dudes want a tachometer in a DX trim, even though the car is an automatic. But at least they were nice and didn't smash the dash to rip it out..The actually  spent the time to disassembled the dash and left all the screws and trim fittings in the car  for us to reassemble.

 

 

[Coronita]

My brother has a Mazda 3 and likes it. It is extremely well rated. I can't even look at the the Mazda3 or the Civic because I don't fit comfortable. I had to bump up the the 2 door Accord back in 2000 when I bought my car. I still like the styling better than the new accord body lines. 97000 miles and never had a problem with the car.

My only gripe on cars liek Honda's are that 7 years after they remodel the cars they stop carring parts which increases the probability of theft. I have had 2 Accords stolen on me. Pisses me off but hey that's what insurance is for.

 

There is a reason for this. Actually, Accords and Civics are pretty expensive to insure. A lot of the wannabe-racer-dudes (i won't use the derogatory term to describe them) with civics and accords often steal them to rip off the parts for cars they screw up trying to race. Or the make their hondas look like they can race (for example, the fart can exhausts, the cut springs, the bling bling wheels…We've all seen them on the roads). The problem is that Honda parts are so interchangeable, a used honda chopped up is much more valuable than the car itself. Had someone have his instrument cluster in a Honda stolen while parked in his apartment, because some of the lower trim DX models don't have the tachometer and a lot of those wannabe-racer-dudes want a tachometer in a DX trim, even though the car is an automatic. But at least they were nice and didn't smash the dash to rip it out..The actually  spent the time to disassembled the dash and left all the screws and trim fittings in the car  for us to reassemble.

 

 

[Coronita]

My brother has a Mazda 3 and likes it. It is extremely well rated. I can't even look at the the Mazda3 or the Civic because I don't fit comfortable. I had to bump up the the 2 door Accord back in 2000 when I bought my car. I still like the styling better than the new accord body lines. 97000 miles and never had a problem with the car.

My only gripe on cars liek Honda's are that 7 years after they remodel the cars they stop carring parts which increases the probability of theft. I have had 2 Accords stolen on me. Pisses me off but hey that's what insurance is for.

 

There is a reason for this. Actually, Accords and Civics are pretty expensive to insure. A lot of the wannabe-racer-dudes (i won't use the derogatory term to describe them) with civics and accords often steal them to rip off the parts for cars they screw up trying to race. Or the make their hondas look like they can race (for example, the fart can exhausts, the cut springs, the bling bling wheels…We've all seen them on the roads). The problem is that Honda parts are so interchangeable, a used honda chopped up is much more valuable than the car itself. Had someone have his instrument cluster in a Honda stolen while parked in his apartment, because some of the lower trim DX models don't have the tachometer and a lot of those wannabe-racer-dudes want a tachometer in a DX trim, even though the car is an automatic. But at least they were nice and didn't smash the dash to rip it out..The actually  spent the time to disassembled the dash and left all the screws and trim fittings in the car  for us to reassemble.

 

 

[Raybyrnes]

My brother has a Mazda 3 and likes it. It is extremely well rated. I can’t even look at the the Mazda3 or the Civic because I don’t fit comfortable. I had to bump up the the 2 door Accord back in 2000 when I bought my car. I still like the styling better than the new accord body lines. 97000 miles and never had a problem with the car.

My only gripe on cars liek Honda’s are that 7 years after they remodel the cars they stop carring parts which increases the probability of theft. I have had 2 Accords stolen on me. Pisses me off but hey that’s what insurance is for.

[Raybyrnes]

My brother has a Mazda 3 and likes it. It is extremely well rated. I can’t even look at the the Mazda3 or the Civic because I don’t fit comfortable. I had to bump up the the 2 door Accord back in 2000 when I bought my car. I still like the styling better than the new accord body lines. 97000 miles and never had a problem with the car.

My only gripe on cars liek Honda’s are that 7 years after they remodel the cars they stop carring parts which increases the probability of theft. I have had 2 Accords stolen on me. Pisses me off but hey that’s what insurance is for.

[Raybyrnes]

My brother has a Mazda 3 and likes it. It is extremely well rated. I can’t even look at the the Mazda3 or the Civic because I don’t fit comfortable. I had to bump up the the 2 door Accord back in 2000 when I bought my car. I still like the styling better than the new accord body lines. 97000 miles and never had a problem with the car.

My only gripe on cars liek Honda’s are that 7 years after they remodel the cars they stop carring parts which increases the probability of theft. I have had 2 Accords stolen on me. Pisses me off but hey that’s what insurance is for.

[Raybyrnes]

My brother has a Mazda 3 and likes it. It is extremely well rated. I can’t even look at the the Mazda3 or the Civic because I don’t fit comfortable. I had to bump up the the 2 door Accord back in 2000 when I bought my car. I still like the styling better than the new accord body lines. 97000 miles and never had a problem with the car.

My only gripe on cars liek Honda’s are that 7 years after they remodel the cars they stop carring parts which increases the probability of theft. I have had 2 Accords stolen on me. Pisses me off but hey that’s what insurance is for.

[Coronita]

Submitted by jamsvet on November 20, 2007 – 9:05pm.

Take a good look at the car mags and see what they recommend. The Mazdaspeed3 is a great car and comes highly recommended. I've bought used if its the right car and the right price. New if its high performance or highly in demand. Don't take what the dealer has on the lot unless its EXACTLY what you want. Remember that you will have it for a long time. Get what you want. I'm a car nut and hate to see people settle for an appliance when you can have an experience.

Don't disagree with the mazdaspeed3 being good. But the original poster brought up how he/she wants to save for a house. If he/she will need to finance $23k for something like a MazdaSpeed3, he/she definitely will need to save up to buy a home too. At any point in time, we can't always satisfy all our needs and wants. So if the person wants a cool car more than a house, I can see where that tradeoff would be well spent. If however the person wants a house more than a car, a reliable appliance that gets him/her from point a to b might be a good alternative. Hyundai's and civics and normal mazda 3's start $14-15k, and probably will last for 10 years.

Stay away from any VAG(Volkswagon/Audi), Mercedes, Saab,BMW product if you want to talk about reliability and maintenance over 10+ years, unless you plan on being a grease monkey or are just stinking filthy rich. 

[Raybyrnes]

fat_lazy_union

That’s a really good call with the Hyundai. I actually think you get a really good car for the money and if you plan on driving it until the wheels fall off you save a couple of thousand over the Toyota or Honda.

[Ricechex]

Thankyou all for your feedback. I really appreciate it. I plan to call the other Mazda dealers. I also will check on the Hyundai Sonata.

I am not broke, but I know that if there is a crisis, sometimes money goes ALOT faster than you can save it. So, I don’t want top of the line anything.

I also checked into the Costco Auto Buying program. Apparently, Mazda will sell me the car for Invoice Price. That, and the 0% financing might work.

Thank you all again so much. I knew the Piggs would know about such matters.

[patientlywaiting]

The new 2008 Accord is now as big as a Buick. It’s designed for the aging buyers. I doubt that the racer dudes will be stealing them.

[patientlywaiting]

As far as credit card is concerned, if you have a zero percent card for a year, you can put your property taxes on it and pay the 1.88% fee the service. Not a bad deal considering you can earn 5.00%+ in a CD.

[nostradamus]

Hi Ricechex the costco progam only works with the Mazda in Escondido (Wescott?) and they didn’t have the car I wanted in stock so tried to sell me something I didn’t want. I’m also pretty sure when they say invoice they mean invoice + destination + fees.

[Raybyrnes]

nostradamus
Destination charge is part of the cost of the car.It is charge by the manufacturer to ship the car to the dealership.

As I mentioned in my earlier post Invoice is not dealer cost

Dealer Cost is Invoice Less Advertising (usually about 200) less Finance(usually about 175) less Holdback (3% MSRP) Right now there is a $500 rebate on the Mazda 3.

So if the Cars Invoice is 18000 than Dealer cost would be
18000(invoice)-200(advertising)-175(finance)-540(Holdback)-500(manufacturuers rebate)=$16585

I wouldn’t use Costco’s auto buying program to buy the Car. I used the finance section to simply finance the car.

You would be wasting your time if you thought you were going to be able to combine a dealer cost with a 0% finance Option. If you are going through the dealer for financing you are going to have to choose one or the other.

That is why you best bet is to get financed on your own and then just negotiate the best price you can get. If you are not Picky about the options you can pick up the Sunday Paper and they usually advertise loss leader each week. Walk In and ask for it. Present you preapproved check and you have yourself a great deal on a car.

Personally I think the Mercury Milan is a car worth considering.

[Raybyrnes]

nostradamus
Destination charge is part of the cost of the car.It is charge by the manufacturer to ship the car to the dealership.

As I mentioned in my earlier post Invoice is not dealer cost

Dealer Cost is Invoice Less Advertising (usually about 200) less Finance(usually about 175) less Holdback (3% MSRP) Right now there is a $500 rebate on the Mazda 3.

So if the Cars Invoice is 18000 than Dealer cost would be
18000(invoice)-200(advertising)-175(finance)-540(Holdback)-500(manufacturuers rebate)=$16585

I wouldn’t use Costco’s auto buying program to buy the Car. I used the finance section to simply finance the car.

You would be wasting your time if you thought you were going to be able to combine a dealer cost with a 0% finance Option. If you are going through the dealer for financing you are going to have to choose one or the other.

That is why you best bet is to get financed on your own and then just negotiate the best price you can get. If you are not Picky about the options you can pick up the Sunday Paper and they usually advertise loss leader each week. Walk In and ask for it. Present you preapproved check and you have yourself a great deal on a car.

Personally I think the Mercury Milan is a car worth considering.

[Raybyrnes]

nostradamus
Destination charge is part of the cost of the car.It is charge by the manufacturer to ship the car to the dealership.

As I mentioned in my earlier post Invoice is not dealer cost

Dealer Cost is Invoice Less Advertising (usually about 200) less Finance(usually about 175) less Holdback (3% MSRP) Right now there is a $500 rebate on the Mazda 3.

So if the Cars Invoice is 18000 than Dealer cost would be
18000(invoice)-200(advertising)-175(finance)-540(Holdback)-500(manufacturuers rebate)=$16585

I wouldn’t use Costco’s auto buying program to buy the Car. I used the finance section to simply finance the car.

You would be wasting your time if you thought you were going to be able to combine a dealer cost with a 0% finance Option. If you are going through the dealer for financing you are going to have to choose one or the other.

That is why you best bet is to get financed on your own and then just negotiate the best price you can get. If you are not Picky about the options you can pick up the Sunday Paper and they usually advertise loss leader each week. Walk In and ask for it. Present you preapproved check and you have yourself a great deal on a car.

Personally I think the Mercury Milan is a car worth considering.

[Raybyrnes]

nostradamus
Destination charge is part of the cost of the car.It is charge by the manufacturer to ship the car to the dealership.

As I mentioned in my earlier post Invoice is not dealer cost

Dealer Cost is Invoice Less Advertising (usually about 200) less Finance(usually about 175) less Holdback (3% MSRP) Right now there is a $500 rebate on the Mazda 3.

So if the Cars Invoice is 18000 than Dealer cost would be
18000(invoice)-200(advertising)-175(finance)-540(Holdback)-500(manufacturuers rebate)=$16585

I wouldn’t use Costco’s auto buying program to buy the Car. I used the finance section to simply finance the car.

You would be wasting your time if you thought you were going to be able to combine a dealer cost with a 0% finance Option. If you are going through the dealer for financing you are going to have to choose one or the other.

That is why you best bet is to get financed on your own and then just negotiate the best price you can get. If you are not Picky about the options you can pick up the Sunday Paper and they usually advertise loss leader each week. Walk In and ask for it. Present you preapproved check and you have yourself a great deal on a car.

Personally I think the Mercury Milan is a car worth considering.

[Raybyrnes]

nostradamus
Destination charge is part of the cost of the car.It is charge by the manufacturer to ship the car to the dealership.

As I mentioned in my earlier post Invoice is not dealer cost

Dealer Cost is Invoice Less Advertising (usually about 200) less Finance(usually about 175) less Holdback (3% MSRP) Right now there is a $500 rebate on the Mazda 3.

So if the Cars Invoice is 18000 than Dealer cost would be
18000(invoice)-200(advertising)-175(finance)-540(Holdback)-500(manufacturuers rebate)=$16585

I wouldn’t use Costco’s auto buying program to buy the Car. I used the finance section to simply finance the car.

You would be wasting your time if you thought you were going to be able to combine a dealer cost with a 0% finance Option. If you are going through the dealer for financing you are going to have to choose one or the other.

That is why you best bet is to get financed on your own and then just negotiate the best price you can get. If you are not Picky about the options you can pick up the Sunday Paper and they usually advertise loss leader each week. Walk In and ask for it. Present you preapproved check and you have yourself a great deal on a car.

Personally I think the Mercury Milan is a car worth considering.

[nostradamus]

Hi Ricechex the costco progam only works with the Mazda in Escondido (Wescott?) and they didn’t have the car I wanted in stock so tried to sell me something I didn’t want. I’m also pretty sure when they say invoice they mean invoice + destination + fees.

[nostradamus]

Hi Ricechex the costco progam only works with the Mazda in Escondido (Wescott?) and they didn’t have the car I wanted in stock so tried to sell me something I didn’t want. I’m also pretty sure when they say invoice they mean invoice + destination + fees.

[nostradamus]

Hi Ricechex the costco progam only works with the Mazda in Escondido (Wescott?) and they didn’t have the car I wanted in stock so tried to sell me something I didn’t want. I’m also pretty sure when they say invoice they mean invoice + destination + fees.

[nostradamus]

Hi Ricechex the costco progam only works with the Mazda in Escondido (Wescott?) and they didn’t have the car I wanted in stock so tried to sell me something I didn’t want. I’m also pretty sure when they say invoice they mean invoice + destination + fees.

[patientlywaiting]

As far as credit card is concerned, if you have a zero percent card for a year, you can put your property taxes on it and pay the 1.88% fee the service. Not a bad deal considering you can earn 5.00%+ in a CD.

[patientlywaiting]

As far as credit card is concerned, if you have a zero percent card for a year, you can put your property taxes on it and pay the 1.88% fee the service. Not a bad deal considering you can earn 5.00%+ in a CD.

[patientlywaiting]

As far as credit card is concerned, if you have a zero percent card for a year, you can put your property taxes on it and pay the 1.88% fee the service. Not a bad deal considering you can earn 5.00%+ in a CD.

[patientlywaiting]

As far as credit card is concerned, if you have a zero percent card for a year, you can put your property taxes on it and pay the 1.88% fee the service. Not a bad deal considering you can earn 5.00%+ in a CD.

[patientlywaiting]

The new 2008 Accord is now as big as a Buick. It’s designed for the aging buyers. I doubt that the racer dudes will be stealing them.

[patientlywaiting]

The new 2008 Accord is now as big as a Buick. It’s designed for the aging buyers. I doubt that the racer dudes will be stealing them.

[patientlywaiting]

The new 2008 Accord is now as big as a Buick. It’s designed for the aging buyers. I doubt that the racer dudes will be stealing them.

[patientlywaiting]

The new 2008 Accord is now as big as a Buick. It’s designed for the aging buyers. I doubt that the racer dudes will be stealing them.

[Ricechex]

Thankyou all for your feedback. I really appreciate it. I plan to call the other Mazda dealers. I also will check on the Hyundai Sonata.

I am not broke, but I know that if there is a crisis, sometimes money goes ALOT faster than you can save it. So, I don’t want top of the line anything.

I also checked into the Costco Auto Buying program. Apparently, Mazda will sell me the car for Invoice Price. That, and the 0% financing might work.

Thank you all again so much. I knew the Piggs would know about such matters.

[Ricechex]

Thankyou all for your feedback. I really appreciate it. I plan to call the other Mazda dealers. I also will check on the Hyundai Sonata.

I am not broke, but I know that if there is a crisis, sometimes money goes ALOT faster than you can save it. So, I don’t want top of the line anything.

I also checked into the Costco Auto Buying program. Apparently, Mazda will sell me the car for Invoice Price. That, and the 0% financing might work.

Thank you all again so much. I knew the Piggs would know about such matters.

[Ricechex]

Thankyou all for your feedback. I really appreciate it. I plan to call the other Mazda dealers. I also will check on the Hyundai Sonata.

I am not broke, but I know that if there is a crisis, sometimes money goes ALOT faster than you can save it. So, I don’t want top of the line anything.

I also checked into the Costco Auto Buying program. Apparently, Mazda will sell me the car for Invoice Price. That, and the 0% financing might work.

Thank you all again so much. I knew the Piggs would know about such matters.

[Ricechex]

Thankyou all for your feedback. I really appreciate it. I plan to call the other Mazda dealers. I also will check on the Hyundai Sonata.

I am not broke, but I know that if there is a crisis, sometimes money goes ALOT faster than you can save it. So, I don’t want top of the line anything.

I also checked into the Costco Auto Buying program. Apparently, Mazda will sell me the car for Invoice Price. That, and the 0% financing might work.

Thank you all again so much. I knew the Piggs would know about such matters.

[Raybyrnes]

fat_lazy_union

That’s a really good call with the Hyundai. I actually think you get a really good car for the money and if you plan on driving it until the wheels fall off you save a couple of thousand over the Toyota or Honda.

[Raybyrnes]

fat_lazy_union

That’s a really good call with the Hyundai. I actually think you get a really good car for the money and if you plan on driving it until the wheels fall off you save a couple of thousand over the Toyota or Honda.

[Raybyrnes]

fat_lazy_union

That’s a really good call with the Hyundai. I actually think you get a really good car for the money and if you plan on driving it until the wheels fall off you save a couple of thousand over the Toyota or Honda.

[Raybyrnes]

fat_lazy_union

That’s a really good call with the Hyundai. I actually think you get a really good car for the money and if you plan on driving it until the wheels fall off you save a couple of thousand over the Toyota or Honda.

[Coronita]

Submitted by jamsvet on November 20, 2007 – 9:05pm.

Take a good look at the car mags and see what they recommend. The Mazdaspeed3 is a great car and comes highly recommended. I've bought used if its the right car and the right price. New if its high performance or highly in demand. Don't take what the dealer has on the lot unless its EXACTLY what you want. Remember that you will have it for a long time. Get what you want. I'm a car nut and hate to see people settle for an appliance when you can have an experience.

Don't disagree with the mazdaspeed3 being good. But the original poster brought up how he/she wants to save for a house. If he/she will need to finance $23k for something like a MazdaSpeed3, he/she definitely will need to save up to buy a home too. At any point in time, we can't always satisfy all our needs and wants. So if the person wants a cool car more than a house, I can see where that tradeoff would be well spent. If however the person wants a house more than a car, a reliable appliance that gets him/her from point a to b might be a good alternative. Hyundai's and civics and normal mazda 3's start $14-15k, and probably will last for 10 years.

Stay away from any VAG(Volkswagon/Audi), Mercedes, Saab,BMW product if you want to talk about reliability and maintenance over 10+ years, unless you plan on being a grease monkey or are just stinking filthy rich. 

[Coronita]

Submitted by jamsvet on November 20, 2007 – 9:05pm.

Take a good look at the car mags and see what they recommend. The Mazdaspeed3 is a great car and comes highly recommended. I've bought used if its the right car and the right price. New if its high performance or highly in demand. Don't take what the dealer has on the lot unless its EXACTLY what you want. Remember that you will have it for a long time. Get what you want. I'm a car nut and hate to see people settle for an appliance when you can have an experience.

Don't disagree with the mazdaspeed3 being good. But the original poster brought up how he/she wants to save for a house. If he/she will need to finance $23k for something like a MazdaSpeed3, he/she definitely will need to save up to buy a home too. At any point in time, we can't always satisfy all our needs and wants. So if the person wants a cool car more than a house, I can see where that tradeoff would be well spent. If however the person wants a house more than a car, a reliable appliance that gets him/her from point a to b might be a good alternative. Hyundai's and civics and normal mazda 3's start $14-15k, and probably will last for 10 years.

Stay away from any VAG(Volkswagon/Audi), Mercedes, Saab,BMW product if you want to talk about reliability and maintenance over 10+ years, unless you plan on being a grease monkey or are just stinking filthy rich. 

[Coronita]

Submitted by jamsvet on November 20, 2007 – 9:05pm.

Take a good look at the car mags and see what they recommend. The Mazdaspeed3 is a great car and comes highly recommended. I've bought used if its the right car and the right price. New if its high performance or highly in demand. Don't take what the dealer has on the lot unless its EXACTLY what you want. Remember that you will have it for a long time. Get what you want. I'm a car nut and hate to see people settle for an appliance when you can have an experience.

Don't disagree with the mazdaspeed3 being good. But the original poster brought up how he/she wants to save for a house. If he/she will need to finance $23k for something like a MazdaSpeed3, he/she definitely will need to save up to buy a home too. At any point in time, we can't always satisfy all our needs and wants. So if the person wants a cool car more than a house, I can see where that tradeoff would be well spent. If however the person wants a house more than a car, a reliable appliance that gets him/her from point a to b might be a good alternative. Hyundai's and civics and normal mazda 3's start $14-15k, and probably will last for 10 years.

Stay away from any VAG(Volkswagon/Audi), Mercedes, Saab,BMW product if you want to talk about reliability and maintenance over 10+ years, unless you plan on being a grease monkey or are just stinking filthy rich. 

[Coronita]

Submitted by jamsvet on November 20, 2007 – 9:05pm.

Take a good look at the car mags and see what they recommend. The Mazdaspeed3 is a great car and comes highly recommended. I've bought used if its the right car and the right price. New if its high performance or highly in demand. Don't take what the dealer has on the lot unless its EXACTLY what you want. Remember that you will have it for a long time. Get what you want. I'm a car nut and hate to see people settle for an appliance when you can have an experience.

Don't disagree with the mazdaspeed3 being good. But the original poster brought up how he/she wants to save for a house. If he/she will need to finance $23k for something like a MazdaSpeed3, he/she definitely will need to save up to buy a home too. At any point in time, we can't always satisfy all our needs and wants. So if the person wants a cool car more than a house, I can see where that tradeoff would be well spent. If however the person wants a house more than a car, a reliable appliance that gets him/her from point a to b might be a good alternative. Hyundai's and civics and normal mazda 3's start $14-15k, and probably will last for 10 years.

Stay away from any VAG(Volkswagon/Audi), Mercedes, Saab,BMW product if you want to talk about reliability and maintenance over 10+ years, unless you plan on being a grease monkey or are just stinking filthy rich. 

[jamsvet]

Take a good look at the car mags and see what they recommend. The Mazdaspeed3 is a great car and comes highly recommended. I’ve bought used if its the right car and the right price. New if its high performance or highly in demand. Don’t take what the dealer has on the lot unless its EXACTLY what you want. Remember that you will have it for a long time. Get what you want. I’m a car nut and hate to see people settle for an appliance when you can have an experience.

[jamsvet]

Take a good look at the car mags and see what they recommend. The Mazdaspeed3 is a great car and comes highly recommended. I’ve bought used if its the right car and the right price. New if its high performance or highly in demand. Don’t take what the dealer has on the lot unless its EXACTLY what you want. Remember that you will have it for a long time. Get what you want. I’m a car nut and hate to see people settle for an appliance when you can have an experience.

[jamsvet]

Take a good look at the car mags and see what they recommend. The Mazdaspeed3 is a great car and comes highly recommended. I’ve bought used if its the right car and the right price. New if its high performance or highly in demand. Don’t take what the dealer has on the lot unless its EXACTLY what you want. Remember that you will have it for a long time. Get what you want. I’m a car nut and hate to see people settle for an appliance when you can have an experience.

[jamsvet]

Take a good look at the car mags and see what they recommend. The Mazdaspeed3 is a great car and comes highly recommended. I’ve bought used if its the right car and the right price. New if its high performance or highly in demand. Don’t take what the dealer has on the lot unless its EXACTLY what you want. Remember that you will have it for a long time. Get what you want. I’m a car nut and hate to see people settle for an appliance when you can have an experience.

[Coronita]

You guys are the greatest!

To FLU: Well, it is perfect condition, BUT, things go wrong. Recently, I needed a new turn signal thing and a Master Cylinder. They had to order the Master Cylinder from Phoenix (which got delivered to Irvine, groan), and the turn signal had to be found at a junkyard, and was still $150. (New from dealer would have been $376) Thus, it took 2 1/2 days in the shop, just waiting on parts. It is a Mazda Protege 1995–136,000 miles. I have had it since 2000.

I want to buy a Mazda 3. They are still made in Japan. I just called them, and they said no to credit cards (conflict–when you buy a car there is no returning it, but if you buy on CC then you have 30 days to return) but they have 0% financing for 36 months, for qualifying buyers, which is me–I have a high FICO score.

Never had a car payment in my life (always buy used cars in cash) and I am SWEATING this. With a hefty car payment, it would restrict me to save for the house I want in the next few years. On the other hand, I work 2 jobs, and cannot have my car out of operation unexpectedly, and for days at a time. What a crossroads…..

 

I think you might consider getting another mechanic. While your car isn't considered new. It's not exactly old to warrant having trouble finding parts. A master cylinder for your car shouldn't be hard to source..If fact, you could order it yourself online and have it shipped to you freww without take. Shouldn't have cost you more than $120-$150, and labor on these cars shouldn't be that much because they are not that difficult to work on. Try working on a german car, and you'll know what I mean.

 

For example, http://www.car-stuff.com/store/?N=1667+4294967006+11062+9182. 

If you are around Miramar, I would recommend you take it to a person called GWin http://yp.yahoo.com/py/ypMap.py?tuid=9447857&tcat=7844597&city=San+Diego&state=CA&zip=92130&uzip=92130&msa=7320&slt=32.949900&sln=-117.211100&cs=5&stat=:pos:0:regular:regT:1:fbT:0

Chinese-Vietnamese dude that does a relatively decent job at a pretty cheap price. Opened on saturdays. Oil changes with filter are like $15. Other services are pretty cheap, decent labor rates. (Though, don't undestimate this dude's net worth. He lives in carmel valley and sends his kids to private schools. No I don't know him personally. Ran into him a few times in CV on sundays). I use to take my japanese beaters before we sold them.

Save some money and save up on the house. If you must buy a new car, perhaps consider a Hyundai. I wouldn't mind buying a Sonota these days as a commuter/heavy use car.  I think the designs are looking pretty good, the safety rating is good, and you can't beat the warranty. The Korean car manufacturers have really caught up. Japanese cars are SO overrated these days. Look at how many times Toyota has issued recalls. The other thing you want to watch out for if you decide to buy a used Mazda 3. Make sure it's not one of them that they recovered from the Cougar Ace

 

http://www.autoblog.com/2006/08/27/cougar-ace-could-some-of-her-mazdas-be-saleable/ 

 

 

 

 

[Coronita]

You guys are the greatest!

To FLU: Well, it is perfect condition, BUT, things go wrong. Recently, I needed a new turn signal thing and a Master Cylinder. They had to order the Master Cylinder from Phoenix (which got delivered to Irvine, groan), and the turn signal had to be found at a junkyard, and was still $150. (New from dealer would have been $376) Thus, it took 2 1/2 days in the shop, just waiting on parts. It is a Mazda Protege 1995–136,000 miles. I have had it since 2000.

I want to buy a Mazda 3. They are still made in Japan. I just called them, and they said no to credit cards (conflict–when you buy a car there is no returning it, but if you buy on CC then you have 30 days to return) but they have 0% financing for 36 months, for qualifying buyers, which is me–I have a high FICO score.

Never had a car payment in my life (always buy used cars in cash) and I am SWEATING this. With a hefty car payment, it would restrict me to save for the house I want in the next few years. On the other hand, I work 2 jobs, and cannot have my car out of operation unexpectedly, and for days at a time. What a crossroads…..

 

I think you might consider getting another mechanic. While your car isn't considered new. It's not exactly old to warrant having trouble finding parts. A master cylinder for your car shouldn't be hard to source..If fact, you could order it yourself online and have it shipped to you freww without take. Shouldn't have cost you more than $120-$150, and labor on these cars shouldn't be that much because they are not that difficult to work on. Try working on a german car, and you'll know what I mean.

 

For example, http://www.car-stuff.com/store/?N=1667+4294967006+11062+9182. 

If you are around Miramar, I would recommend you take it to a person called GWin http://yp.yahoo.com/py/ypMap.py?tuid=9447857&tcat=7844597&city=San+Diego&state=CA&zip=92130&uzip=92130&msa=7320&slt=32.949900&sln=-117.211100&cs=5&stat=:pos:0:regular:regT:1:fbT:0

Chinese-Vietnamese dude that does a relatively decent job at a pretty cheap price. Opened on saturdays. Oil changes with filter are like $15. Other services are pretty cheap, decent labor rates. (Though, don't undestimate this dude's net worth. He lives in carmel valley and sends his kids to private schools. No I don't know him personally. Ran into him a few times in CV on sundays). I use to take my japanese beaters before we sold them.

Save some money and save up on the house. If you must buy a new car, perhaps consider a Hyundai. I wouldn't mind buying a Sonota these days as a commuter/heavy use car.  I think the designs are looking pretty good, the safety rating is good, and you can't beat the warranty. The Korean car manufacturers have really caught up. Japanese cars are SO overrated these days. Look at how many times Toyota has issued recalls. The other thing you want to watch out for if you decide to buy a used Mazda 3. Make sure it's not one of them that they recovered from the Cougar Ace

 

http://www.autoblog.com/2006/08/27/cougar-ace-could-some-of-her-mazdas-be-saleable/ 

 

 

 

 

[Coronita]

You guys are the greatest!

To FLU: Well, it is perfect condition, BUT, things go wrong. Recently, I needed a new turn signal thing and a Master Cylinder. They had to order the Master Cylinder from Phoenix (which got delivered to Irvine, groan), and the turn signal had to be found at a junkyard, and was still $150. (New from dealer would have been $376) Thus, it took 2 1/2 days in the shop, just waiting on parts. It is a Mazda Protege 1995–136,000 miles. I have had it since 2000.

I want to buy a Mazda 3. They are still made in Japan. I just called them, and they said no to credit cards (conflict–when you buy a car there is no returning it, but if you buy on CC then you have 30 days to return) but they have 0% financing for 36 months, for qualifying buyers, which is me–I have a high FICO score.

Never had a car payment in my life (always buy used cars in cash) and I am SWEATING this. With a hefty car payment, it would restrict me to save for the house I want in the next few years. On the other hand, I work 2 jobs, and cannot have my car out of operation unexpectedly, and for days at a time. What a crossroads…..

 

I think you might consider getting another mechanic. While your car isn't considered new. It's not exactly old to warrant having trouble finding parts. A master cylinder for your car shouldn't be hard to source..If fact, you could order it yourself online and have it shipped to you freww without take. Shouldn't have cost you more than $120-$150, and labor on these cars shouldn't be that much because they are not that difficult to work on. Try working on a german car, and you'll know what I mean.

 

For example, http://www.car-stuff.com/store/?N=1667+4294967006+11062+9182. 

If you are around Miramar, I would recommend you take it to a person called GWin http://yp.yahoo.com/py/ypMap.py?tuid=9447857&tcat=7844597&city=San+Diego&state=CA&zip=92130&uzip=92130&msa=7320&slt=32.949900&sln=-117.211100&cs=5&stat=:pos:0:regular:regT:1:fbT:0

Chinese-Vietnamese dude that does a relatively decent job at a pretty cheap price. Opened on saturdays. Oil changes with filter are like $15. Other services are pretty cheap, decent labor rates. (Though, don't undestimate this dude's net worth. He lives in carmel valley and sends his kids to private schools. No I don't know him personally. Ran into him a few times in CV on sundays). I use to take my japanese beaters before we sold them.

Save some money and save up on the house. If you must buy a new car, perhaps consider a Hyundai. I wouldn't mind buying a Sonota these days as a commuter/heavy use car.  I think the designs are looking pretty good, the safety rating is good, and you can't beat the warranty. The Korean car manufacturers have really caught up. Japanese cars are SO overrated these days. Look at how many times Toyota has issued recalls. The other thing you want to watch out for if you decide to buy a used Mazda 3. Make sure it's not one of them that they recovered from the Cougar Ace

 

http://www.autoblog.com/2006/08/27/cougar-ace-could-some-of-her-mazdas-be-saleable/ 

 

 

 

 

[Coronita]

You guys are the greatest!

To FLU: Well, it is perfect condition, BUT, things go wrong. Recently, I needed a new turn signal thing and a Master Cylinder. They had to order the Master Cylinder from Phoenix (which got delivered to Irvine, groan), and the turn signal had to be found at a junkyard, and was still $150. (New from dealer would have been $376) Thus, it took 2 1/2 days in the shop, just waiting on parts. It is a Mazda Protege 1995–136,000 miles. I have had it since 2000.

I want to buy a Mazda 3. They are still made in Japan. I just called them, and they said no to credit cards (conflict–when you buy a car there is no returning it, but if you buy on CC then you have 30 days to return) but they have 0% financing for 36 months, for qualifying buyers, which is me–I have a high FICO score.

Never had a car payment in my life (always buy used cars in cash) and I am SWEATING this. With a hefty car payment, it would restrict me to save for the house I want in the next few years. On the other hand, I work 2 jobs, and cannot have my car out of operation unexpectedly, and for days at a time. What a crossroads…..

 

I think you might consider getting another mechanic. While your car isn't considered new. It's not exactly old to warrant having trouble finding parts. A master cylinder for your car shouldn't be hard to source..If fact, you could order it yourself online and have it shipped to you freww without take. Shouldn't have cost you more than $120-$150, and labor on these cars shouldn't be that much because they are not that difficult to work on. Try working on a german car, and you'll know what I mean.

 

For example, http://www.car-stuff.com/store/?N=1667+4294967006+11062+9182. 

If you are around Miramar, I would recommend you take it to a person called GWin http://yp.yahoo.com/py/ypMap.py?tuid=9447857&tcat=7844597&city=San+Diego&state=CA&zip=92130&uzip=92130&msa=7320&slt=32.949900&sln=-117.211100&cs=5&stat=:pos:0:regular:regT:1:fbT:0

Chinese-Vietnamese dude that does a relatively decent job at a pretty cheap price. Opened on saturdays. Oil changes with filter are like $15. Other services are pretty cheap, decent labor rates. (Though, don't undestimate this dude's net worth. He lives in carmel valley and sends his kids to private schools. No I don't know him personally. Ran into him a few times in CV on sundays). I use to take my japanese beaters before we sold them.

Save some money and save up on the house. If you must buy a new car, perhaps consider a Hyundai. I wouldn't mind buying a Sonota these days as a commuter/heavy use car.  I think the designs are looking pretty good, the safety rating is good, and you can't beat the warranty. The Korean car manufacturers have really caught up. Japanese cars are SO overrated these days. Look at how many times Toyota has issued recalls. The other thing you want to watch out for if you decide to buy a used Mazda 3. Make sure it's not one of them that they recovered from the Cougar Ace

 

http://www.autoblog.com/2006/08/27/cougar-ace-could-some-of-her-mazdas-be-saleable/ 

 

 

 

 

[Ricechex]

You guys are the greatest!

To FLU: Well, it is perfect condition, BUT, things go wrong. Recently, I needed a new turn signal thing and a Master Cylinder. They had to order the Master Cylinder from Phoenix (which got delivered to Irvine, groan), and the turn signal had to be found at a junkyard, and was still $150. (New from dealer would have been $376) Thus, it took 2 1/2 days in the shop, just waiting on parts. It is a Mazda Protege 1995–136,000 miles. I have had it since 2000.

I want to buy a Mazda 3. They are still made in Japan. I just called them, and they said no to credit cards (conflict–when you buy a car there is no returning it, but if you buy on CC then you have 30 days to return) but they have 0% financing for 36 months, for qualifying buyers, which is me–I have a high FICO score.

Never had a car payment in my life (always buy used cars in cash) and I am SWEATING this. With a hefty car payment, it would restrict me to save for the house I want in the next few years. On the other hand, I work 2 jobs, and cannot have my car out of operation unexpectedly, and for days at a time. What a crossroads…..

[Ricechex]

You guys are the greatest!

To FLU: Well, it is perfect condition, BUT, things go wrong. Recently, I needed a new turn signal thing and a Master Cylinder. They had to order the Master Cylinder from Phoenix (which got delivered to Irvine, groan), and the turn signal had to be found at a junkyard, and was still $150. (New from dealer would have been $376) Thus, it took 2 1/2 days in the shop, just waiting on parts. It is a Mazda Protege 1995–136,000 miles. I have had it since 2000.

I want to buy a Mazda 3. They are still made in Japan. I just called them, and they said no to credit cards (conflict–when you buy a car there is no returning it, but if you buy on CC then you have 30 days to return) but they have 0% financing for 36 months, for qualifying buyers, which is me–I have a high FICO score.

Never had a car payment in my life (always buy used cars in cash) and I am SWEATING this. With a hefty car payment, it would restrict me to save for the house I want in the next few years. On the other hand, I work 2 jobs, and cannot have my car out of operation unexpectedly, and for days at a time. What a crossroads…..

[Ricechex]

You guys are the greatest!

To FLU: Well, it is perfect condition, BUT, things go wrong. Recently, I needed a new turn signal thing and a Master Cylinder. They had to order the Master Cylinder from Phoenix (which got delivered to Irvine, groan), and the turn signal had to be found at a junkyard, and was still $150. (New from dealer would have been $376) Thus, it took 2 1/2 days in the shop, just waiting on parts. It is a Mazda Protege 1995–136,000 miles. I have had it since 2000.

I want to buy a Mazda 3. They are still made in Japan. I just called them, and they said no to credit cards (conflict–when you buy a car there is no returning it, but if you buy on CC then you have 30 days to return) but they have 0% financing for 36 months, for qualifying buyers, which is me–I have a high FICO score.

Never had a car payment in my life (always buy used cars in cash) and I am SWEATING this. With a hefty car payment, it would restrict me to save for the house I want in the next few years. On the other hand, I work 2 jobs, and cannot have my car out of operation unexpectedly, and for days at a time. What a crossroads…..

[Ricechex]

You guys are the greatest!

To FLU: Well, it is perfect condition, BUT, things go wrong. Recently, I needed a new turn signal thing and a Master Cylinder. They had to order the Master Cylinder from Phoenix (which got delivered to Irvine, groan), and the turn signal had to be found at a junkyard, and was still $150. (New from dealer would have been $376) Thus, it took 2 1/2 days in the shop, just waiting on parts. It is a Mazda Protege 1995–136,000 miles. I have had it since 2000.

I want to buy a Mazda 3. They are still made in Japan. I just called them, and they said no to credit cards (conflict–when you buy a car there is no returning it, but if you buy on CC then you have 30 days to return) but they have 0% financing for 36 months, for qualifying buyers, which is me–I have a high FICO score.

Never had a car payment in my life (always buy used cars in cash) and I am SWEATING this. With a hefty car payment, it would restrict me to save for the house I want in the next few years. On the other hand, I work 2 jobs, and cannot have my car out of operation unexpectedly, and for days at a time. What a crossroads…..

[Raybyrnes]

patientlywaiting

“Now if you charge the car, the vendor will pay a discount fee, which he will likely include in the price of the car.”

That’s not true.

The deal has already been made. Whether you use a credit card or not has nothing to do with pricing.

There is not that much negotiating that you need to do if you understand the process.

Eliminate variables. By this I mean there is no trade in, don’t need to worry about financing becasue I have already been preapproved, and I am not looking for a warranty.

Take a look in a local paper or go online to see if there are any Cash rebates. These rebates are provided by the manufacturer not the dealer.

Understand the pricing structure of cars. There are the sticker price represented by MSRP.
Then there is the Invoice Cost. This is typically referred to as dealer cost but it is not a true dealer cost. Built into the invoice cost of a car is 3 additional costs. Those costs include Advertising, Financing and Holdback. Typically advertising and financing are about 1%. Holdback is generally going to be 3% of MSRP.

So putting this together would mean going to a dealer and knowing the invoice price of the car.

Then looking to apply a manufacturer rebate to that invoice cost.

Last by using your own financing in advance you can dimply apply the price of the car to the financing cost you recieved from an outside company and that should get you a pretty good deal.

Typically a good benchmark for a new car purchasemight be Invoice+200-manufacturers rebate.

If you are OK with loss leaders you can usually pick up a sunday paper and jsut walk in and take the deal advertised. Usually these deal Represent the Invoice Cost-advertising-holdback-finace-manufactures rebate. If you are OK with the color selection and option on the car it is a good way to buy.

[Raybyrnes]

patientlywaiting

“Now if you charge the car, the vendor will pay a discount fee, which he will likely include in the price of the car.”

That’s not true.

The deal has already been made. Whether you use a credit card or not has nothing to do with pricing.

There is not that much negotiating that you need to do if you understand the process.

Eliminate variables. By this I mean there is no trade in, don’t need to worry about financing becasue I have already been preapproved, and I am not looking for a warranty.

Take a look in a local paper or go online to see if there are any Cash rebates. These rebates are provided by the manufacturer not the dealer.

Understand the pricing structure of cars. There are the sticker price represented by MSRP.
Then there is the Invoice Cost. This is typically referred to as dealer cost but it is not a true dealer cost. Built into the invoice cost of a car is 3 additional costs. Those costs include Advertising, Financing and Holdback. Typically advertising and financing are about 1%. Holdback is generally going to be 3% of MSRP.

So putting this together would mean going to a dealer and knowing the invoice price of the car.

Then looking to apply a manufacturer rebate to that invoice cost.

Last by using your own financing in advance you can dimply apply the price of the car to the financing cost you recieved from an outside company and that should get you a pretty good deal.

Typically a good benchmark for a new car purchasemight be Invoice+200-manufacturers rebate.

If you are OK with loss leaders you can usually pick up a sunday paper and jsut walk in and take the deal advertised. Usually these deal Represent the Invoice Cost-advertising-holdback-finace-manufactures rebate. If you are OK with the color selection and option on the car it is a good way to buy.

[Raybyrnes]

patientlywaiting

“Now if you charge the car, the vendor will pay a discount fee, which he will likely include in the price of the car.”

That’s not true.

The deal has already been made. Whether you use a credit card or not has nothing to do with pricing.

There is not that much negotiating that you need to do if you understand the process.

Eliminate variables. By this I mean there is no trade in, don’t need to worry about financing becasue I have already been preapproved, and I am not looking for a warranty.

Take a look in a local paper or go online to see if there are any Cash rebates. These rebates are provided by the manufacturer not the dealer.

Understand the pricing structure of cars. There are the sticker price represented by MSRP.
Then there is the Invoice Cost. This is typically referred to as dealer cost but it is not a true dealer cost. Built into the invoice cost of a car is 3 additional costs. Those costs include Advertising, Financing and Holdback. Typically advertising and financing are about 1%. Holdback is generally going to be 3% of MSRP.

So putting this together would mean going to a dealer and knowing the invoice price of the car.

Then looking to apply a manufacturer rebate to that invoice cost.

Last by using your own financing in advance you can dimply apply the price of the car to the financing cost you recieved from an outside company and that should get you a pretty good deal.

Typically a good benchmark for a new car purchasemight be Invoice+200-manufacturers rebate.

If you are OK with loss leaders you can usually pick up a sunday paper and jsut walk in and take the deal advertised. Usually these deal Represent the Invoice Cost-advertising-holdback-finace-manufactures rebate. If you are OK with the color selection and option on the car it is a good way to buy.

[Raybyrnes]

patientlywaiting

“Now if you charge the car, the vendor will pay a discount fee, which he will likely include in the price of the car.”

That’s not true.

The deal has already been made. Whether you use a credit card or not has nothing to do with pricing.

There is not that much negotiating that you need to do if you understand the process.

Eliminate variables. By this I mean there is no trade in, don’t need to worry about financing becasue I have already been preapproved, and I am not looking for a warranty.

Take a look in a local paper or go online to see if there are any Cash rebates. These rebates are provided by the manufacturer not the dealer.

Understand the pricing structure of cars. There are the sticker price represented by MSRP.
Then there is the Invoice Cost. This is typically referred to as dealer cost but it is not a true dealer cost. Built into the invoice cost of a car is 3 additional costs. Those costs include Advertising, Financing and Holdback. Typically advertising and financing are about 1%. Holdback is generally going to be 3% of MSRP.

So putting this together would mean going to a dealer and knowing the invoice price of the car.

Then looking to apply a manufacturer rebate to that invoice cost.

Last by using your own financing in advance you can dimply apply the price of the car to the financing cost you recieved from an outside company and that should get you a pretty good deal.

Typically a good benchmark for a new car purchasemight be Invoice+200-manufacturers rebate.

If you are OK with loss leaders you can usually pick up a sunday paper and jsut walk in and take the deal advertised. Usually these deal Represent the Invoice Cost-advertising-holdback-finace-manufactures rebate. If you are OK with the color selection and option on the car it is a good way to buy.

[Raybyrnes]

patientlywaiting

“Now if you charge the car, the vendor will pay a discount fee, which he will likely include in the price of the car.”

That’s not true.

The deal has already been made. Whether you use a credit card or not has nothing to do with pricing.

There is not that much negotiating that you need to do if you understand the process.

Eliminate variables. By this I mean there is no trade in, don’t need to worry about financing becasue I have already been preapproved, and I am not looking for a warranty.

Take a look in a local paper or go online to see if there are any Cash rebates. These rebates are provided by the manufacturer not the dealer.

Understand the pricing structure of cars. There are the sticker price represented by MSRP.
Then there is the Invoice Cost. This is typically referred to as dealer cost but it is not a true dealer cost. Built into the invoice cost of a car is 3 additional costs. Those costs include Advertising, Financing and Holdback. Typically advertising and financing are about 1%. Holdback is generally going to be 3% of MSRP.

So putting this together would mean going to a dealer and knowing the invoice price of the car.

Then looking to apply a manufacturer rebate to that invoice cost.

Last by using your own financing in advance you can dimply apply the price of the car to the financing cost you recieved from an outside company and that should get you a pretty good deal.

Typically a good benchmark for a new car purchasemight be Invoice+200-manufacturers rebate.

If you are OK with loss leaders you can usually pick up a sunday paper and jsut walk in and take the deal advertised. Usually these deal Represent the Invoice Cost-advertising-holdback-finace-manufactures rebate. If you are OK with the color selection and option on the car it is a good way to buy.

[nostradamus]

I just bought a Mazda on Sunday. John Hine Mazda would not take my Amex and said they don’t accept ccs at all. I had to pay with a check. I was bummed because of the “points” program Amex gives.

[djrobsd]

Which mazda did u get??!!

[nostradamus]

I got the Mazdaspeed3. I drove my 1998 Honda CR-V for 10 years then my girlfriend bought a Scion xD and I liked the style of ride but the Scion didn’t have the ooomf I wanted whereas the turbo-charged speed3 kicks butt and gets the same MPG as my honda.

I didn’t trade them the honda because the price they offered me was less than half of what kelley blue book says it would sell for. I put it on craigslist and have 3 people looking at it tomorrow so you’re right about not trading it in. Saved me a bundle.

I’ve owned a lot of cars: ford, chevy, MG, toyota, honda, but this mazda is the first car I’ve ever bought new. I got it well under MSRP so don’t pay MSRP for sure!

check out this funny vid about the speed3:

[nostradamus]

I got the Mazdaspeed3. I drove my 1998 Honda CR-V for 10 years then my girlfriend bought a Scion xD and I liked the style of ride but the Scion didn’t have the ooomf I wanted whereas the turbo-charged speed3 kicks butt and gets the same MPG as my honda.

I didn’t trade them the honda because the price they offered me was less than half of what kelley blue book says it would sell for. I put it on craigslist and have 3 people looking at it tomorrow so you’re right about not trading it in. Saved me a bundle.

I’ve owned a lot of cars: ford, chevy, MG, toyota, honda, but this mazda is the first car I’ve ever bought new. I got it well under MSRP so don’t pay MSRP for sure!

check out this funny vid about the speed3:

[nostradamus]

I got the Mazdaspeed3. I drove my 1998 Honda CR-V for 10 years then my girlfriend bought a Scion xD and I liked the style of ride but the Scion didn’t have the ooomf I wanted whereas the turbo-charged speed3 kicks butt and gets the same MPG as my honda.

I didn’t trade them the honda because the price they offered me was less than half of what kelley blue book says it would sell for. I put it on craigslist and have 3 people looking at it tomorrow so you’re right about not trading it in. Saved me a bundle.

I’ve owned a lot of cars: ford, chevy, MG, toyota, honda, but this mazda is the first car I’ve ever bought new. I got it well under MSRP so don’t pay MSRP for sure!

check out this funny vid about the speed3:

[nostradamus]

I got the Mazdaspeed3. I drove my 1998 Honda CR-V for 10 years then my girlfriend bought a Scion xD and I liked the style of ride but the Scion didn’t have the ooomf I wanted whereas the turbo-charged speed3 kicks butt and gets the same MPG as my honda.

I didn’t trade them the honda because the price they offered me was less than half of what kelley blue book says it would sell for. I put it on craigslist and have 3 people looking at it tomorrow so you’re right about not trading it in. Saved me a bundle.

I’ve owned a lot of cars: ford, chevy, MG, toyota, honda, but this mazda is the first car I’ve ever bought new. I got it well under MSRP so don’t pay MSRP for sure!

check out this funny vid about the speed3:

[nostradamus]

I got the Mazdaspeed3. I drove my 1998 Honda CR-V for 10 years then my girlfriend bought a Scion xD and I liked the style of ride but the Scion didn’t have the ooomf I wanted whereas the turbo-charged speed3 kicks butt and gets the same MPG as my honda.

I didn’t trade them the honda because the price they offered me was less than half of what kelley blue book says it would sell for. I put it on craigslist and have 3 people looking at it tomorrow so you’re right about not trading it in. Saved me a bundle.

I’ve owned a lot of cars: ford, chevy, MG, toyota, honda, but this mazda is the first car I’ve ever bought new. I got it well under MSRP so don’t pay MSRP for sure!

check out this funny vid about the speed3:

[djrobsd]

Which mazda did u get??!!

[djrobsd]

Which mazda did u get??!!

[djrobsd]

Which mazda did u get??!!

[djrobsd]

Which mazda did u get??!!

[nostradamus]

I just bought a Mazda on Sunday. John Hine Mazda would not take my Amex and said they don’t accept ccs at all. I had to pay with a check. I was bummed because of the “points” program Amex gives.

[nostradamus]

I just bought a Mazda on Sunday. John Hine Mazda would not take my Amex and said they don’t accept ccs at all. I had to pay with a check. I was bummed because of the “points” program Amex gives.

[nostradamus]

I just bought a Mazda on Sunday. John Hine Mazda would not take my Amex and said they don’t accept ccs at all. I had to pay with a check. I was bummed because of the “points” program Amex gives.

[nostradamus]

I just bought a Mazda on Sunday. John Hine Mazda would not take my Amex and said they don’t accept ccs at all. I had to pay with a check. I was bummed because of the “points” program Amex gives.

[patientlywaiting]

You won’t rebates on transfer and cash advance.

Now if you charge the car, the vendor will pay a discount fee, which he will likely include in the price of the car. So, you may not know it, but either way, you pay the same. Dealers have profit margin requirements just like any other business.

If you’re a good negotiator, then you’ll get the best deal. BTW, a take-it-or-leave-it attitude generally won’t get you a better deal. Be prepared to spend a couple of hours negotiating. Think of it as a game for entertainment purposes.

[patientlywaiting]

You won’t rebates on transfer and cash advance.

Now if you charge the car, the vendor will pay a discount fee, which he will likely include in the price of the car. So, you may not know it, but either way, you pay the same. Dealers have profit margin requirements just like any other business.

If you’re a good negotiator, then you’ll get the best deal. BTW, a take-it-or-leave-it attitude generally won’t get you a better deal. Be prepared to spend a couple of hours negotiating. Think of it as a game for entertainment purposes.

[patientlywaiting]

You won’t rebates on transfer and cash advance.

Now if you charge the car, the vendor will pay a discount fee, which he will likely include in the price of the car. So, you may not know it, but either way, you pay the same. Dealers have profit margin requirements just like any other business.

If you’re a good negotiator, then you’ll get the best deal. BTW, a take-it-or-leave-it attitude generally won’t get you a better deal. Be prepared to spend a couple of hours negotiating. Think of it as a game for entertainment purposes.

[patientlywaiting]

You won’t rebates on transfer and cash advance.

Now if you charge the car, the vendor will pay a discount fee, which he will likely include in the price of the car. So, you may not know it, but either way, you pay the same. Dealers have profit margin requirements just like any other business.

If you’re a good negotiator, then you’ll get the best deal. BTW, a take-it-or-leave-it attitude generally won’t get you a better deal. Be prepared to spend a couple of hours negotiating. Think of it as a game for entertainment purposes.

[NotCranky]

You could transfer the zero percent CC to your checking and then draft a check against it. This doesn’t help you get the the rebates on your original card though. I doubt you get rebated for checking deposits of that card? If you can, maybe you make a cash advance against on it to your checking and then cover that with the zero?

[NotCranky]

You could transfer the zero percent CC to your checking and then draft a check against it. This doesn’t help you get the the rebates on your original card though. I doubt you get rebated for checking deposits of that card? If you can, maybe you make a cash advance against on it to your checking and then cover that with the zero?

[NotCranky]

You could transfer the zero percent CC to your checking and then draft a check against it. This doesn’t help you get the the rebates on your original card though. I doubt you get rebated for checking deposits of that card? If you can, maybe you make a cash advance against on it to your checking and then cover that with the zero?

[NotCranky]

You could transfer the zero percent CC to your checking and then draft a check against it. This doesn’t help you get the the rebates on your original card though. I doubt you get rebated for checking deposits of that card? If you can, maybe you make a cash advance against on it to your checking and then cover that with the zero?

[djrobsd]

Whatever you do, resist the temptation to buy new. You’ll lose 10-20% the minute you drive it past the curb of the dealership…

I highly recommend looking at a 1-2 year old used model, with low miles, in the certified pre-owned category, every car dealer has a CPO program most come with 100,000 mile warranties including: Toyota, Ford, BMW, Lexus, etc….

Save the depreciation, buy used! Don’t get the GAP coverage (you can buy it online for half the price the delaer charges), DO NOT GET THE CREDIT PROTECTION OR THE LIFE INSURANCE, NO PERMA PLATING OR CLEAR COATING … LOL

Don’t finance it through the dealer, line up your own financing before you go in there…. I don’t think you can put the whole thing on a credit card…

And…. Last but not least, if you do buy new, use a car buying service (they’re free) like Edmunds to help you negotiate the best deal. Pitt the dealers against each other to negotiate the lowest price.

I usually shoot for Invoice… but sometimes you can buy below…

And whatever you do, DONT TRADE YOUR CAR IN, sell it privately.

[Raybyrnes]

djrobsd

“Whatever you do, resist the temptation to buy new. You’ll lose 10-20% the minute you drive it past the curb of the dealership…”

You’re wrong on this. People talk about cars depreciatiing when you drive off the lot and the4 reason that is typically the case is because you just paid tax of %7.75 and Vehicle Licensing fee.

If you are careful with your purchse decision there is very little depreciation. Additionally you eliminate the resik of picking up a lemon. AKA there were plenty of post Katrina Cars that showed up in secondary markets looking new.

You will also find that new cars get better costs in terms of financing.

If you got the cash and can afford it you almost always better off to buy new.

[Raybyrnes]

djrobsd

“Whatever you do, resist the temptation to buy new. You’ll lose 10-20% the minute you drive it past the curb of the dealership…”

You’re wrong on this. People talk about cars depreciatiing when you drive off the lot and the4 reason that is typically the case is because you just paid tax of %7.75 and Vehicle Licensing fee.

If you are careful with your purchse decision there is very little depreciation. Additionally you eliminate the resik of picking up a lemon. AKA there were plenty of post Katrina Cars that showed up in secondary markets looking new.

You will also find that new cars get better costs in terms of financing.

If you got the cash and can afford it you almost always better off to buy new.

[Raybyrnes]

djrobsd

“Whatever you do, resist the temptation to buy new. You’ll lose 10-20% the minute you drive it past the curb of the dealership…”

You’re wrong on this. People talk about cars depreciatiing when you drive off the lot and the4 reason that is typically the case is because you just paid tax of %7.75 and Vehicle Licensing fee.

If you are careful with your purchse decision there is very little depreciation. Additionally you eliminate the resik of picking up a lemon. AKA there were plenty of post Katrina Cars that showed up in secondary markets looking new.

You will also find that new cars get better costs in terms of financing.

If you got the cash and can afford it you almost always better off to buy new.

[Raybyrnes]

djrobsd

“Whatever you do, resist the temptation to buy new. You’ll lose 10-20% the minute you drive it past the curb of the dealership…”

You’re wrong on this. People talk about cars depreciatiing when you drive off the lot and the4 reason that is typically the case is because you just paid tax of %7.75 and Vehicle Licensing fee.

If you are careful with your purchse decision there is very little depreciation. Additionally you eliminate the resik of picking up a lemon. AKA there were plenty of post Katrina Cars that showed up in secondary markets looking new.

You will also find that new cars get better costs in terms of financing.

If you got the cash and can afford it you almost always better off to buy new.

[Raybyrnes]

djrobsd

“Whatever you do, resist the temptation to buy new. You’ll lose 10-20% the minute you drive it past the curb of the dealership…”

You’re wrong on this. People talk about cars depreciatiing when you drive off the lot and the4 reason that is typically the case is because you just paid tax of %7.75 and Vehicle Licensing fee.

If you are careful with your purchse decision there is very little depreciation. Additionally you eliminate the resik of picking up a lemon. AKA there were plenty of post Katrina Cars that showed up in secondary markets looking new.

You will also find that new cars get better costs in terms of financing.

If you got the cash and can afford it you almost always better off to buy new.

[djrobsd]

Whatever you do, resist the temptation to buy new. You’ll lose 10-20% the minute you drive it past the curb of the dealership…

I highly recommend looking at a 1-2 year old used model, with low miles, in the certified pre-owned category, every car dealer has a CPO program most come with 100,000 mile warranties including: Toyota, Ford, BMW, Lexus, etc….

Save the depreciation, buy used! Don’t get the GAP coverage (you can buy it online for half the price the delaer charges), DO NOT GET THE CREDIT PROTECTION OR THE LIFE INSURANCE, NO PERMA PLATING OR CLEAR COATING … LOL

Don’t finance it through the dealer, line up your own financing before you go in there…. I don’t think you can put the whole thing on a credit card…

And…. Last but not least, if you do buy new, use a car buying service (they’re free) like Edmunds to help you negotiate the best deal. Pitt the dealers against each other to negotiate the lowest price.

I usually shoot for Invoice… but sometimes you can buy below…

And whatever you do, DONT TRADE YOUR CAR IN, sell it privately.

[djrobsd]

Whatever you do, resist the temptation to buy new. You’ll lose 10-20% the minute you drive it past the curb of the dealership…

I highly recommend looking at a 1-2 year old used model, with low miles, in the certified pre-owned category, every car dealer has a CPO program most come with 100,000 mile warranties including: Toyota, Ford, BMW, Lexus, etc….

Save the depreciation, buy used! Don’t get the GAP coverage (you can buy it online for half the price the delaer charges), DO NOT GET THE CREDIT PROTECTION OR THE LIFE INSURANCE, NO PERMA PLATING OR CLEAR COATING … LOL

Don’t finance it through the dealer, line up your own financing before you go in there…. I don’t think you can put the whole thing on a credit card…

And…. Last but not least, if you do buy new, use a car buying service (they’re free) like Edmunds to help you negotiate the best deal. Pitt the dealers against each other to negotiate the lowest price.

I usually shoot for Invoice… but sometimes you can buy below…

And whatever you do, DONT TRADE YOUR CAR IN, sell it privately.

[djrobsd]

Whatever you do, resist the temptation to buy new. You’ll lose 10-20% the minute you drive it past the curb of the dealership…

I highly recommend looking at a 1-2 year old used model, with low miles, in the certified pre-owned category, every car dealer has a CPO program most come with 100,000 mile warranties including: Toyota, Ford, BMW, Lexus, etc….

Save the depreciation, buy used! Don’t get the GAP coverage (you can buy it online for half the price the delaer charges), DO NOT GET THE CREDIT PROTECTION OR THE LIFE INSURANCE, NO PERMA PLATING OR CLEAR COATING … LOL

Don’t finance it through the dealer, line up your own financing before you go in there…. I don’t think you can put the whole thing on a credit card…

And…. Last but not least, if you do buy new, use a car buying service (they’re free) like Edmunds to help you negotiate the best deal. Pitt the dealers against each other to negotiate the lowest price.

I usually shoot for Invoice… but sometimes you can buy below…

And whatever you do, DONT TRADE YOUR CAR IN, sell it privately.

[djrobsd]

Whatever you do, resist the temptation to buy new. You’ll lose 10-20% the minute you drive it past the curb of the dealership…

I highly recommend looking at a 1-2 year old used model, with low miles, in the certified pre-owned category, every car dealer has a CPO program most come with 100,000 mile warranties including: Toyota, Ford, BMW, Lexus, etc….

Save the depreciation, buy used! Don’t get the GAP coverage (you can buy it online for half the price the delaer charges), DO NOT GET THE CREDIT PROTECTION OR THE LIFE INSURANCE, NO PERMA PLATING OR CLEAR COATING … LOL

Don’t finance it through the dealer, line up your own financing before you go in there…. I don’t think you can put the whole thing on a credit card…

And…. Last but not least, if you do buy new, use a car buying service (they’re free) like Edmunds to help you negotiate the best deal. Pitt the dealers against each other to negotiate the lowest price.

I usually shoot for Invoice… but sometimes you can buy below…

And whatever you do, DONT TRADE YOUR CAR IN, sell it privately.

[Raybyrnes]

Ricechex

I believe they will only allow you to pay up to $3000 on a credit card purchase for a car so if you have a 0 % deal I see nothing wrong with that and in fact it is what I did when I purchased my own car. There is some strange law about impulsive buy that limit the amount the a dealer can accept on credit card.

I would work on getting preapproved before going to the dealer. I have used COSTCO which has a partnership with Capital One. I have found the blank check program is very easy and provides me with leverage in negotiatiating.

A recent discovery Pentagon Federal Credit Union.

https://www.penfed.org/productsAndRates/loans/vehicleLoans/autoLoans.asp

You can gain access to the credit union by paying a 20$ fee. The rates quoted on new car purchase are 5.29% on up to 72 months financed.

This is a good time of year to buy a car. Your decision should start by identifying whether you are going to go with the 07 or 08 model. The benefit to the 07 is that they usually come with good cash rebates. The downside is that if you look to sell it, it is already a 1 year old car.
T
he 08 model is beneficial when you have a shorter holding period. If you keep you car for 3 years you can sell it in 2010 as a 2 year old vehicle as opposed to 3 years old which reduces your holding costs.

What type of cars are you considering?

[Raybyrnes]

Ricechex

I believe they will only allow you to pay up to $3000 on a credit card purchase for a car so if you have a 0 % deal I see nothing wrong with that and in fact it is what I did when I purchased my own car. There is some strange law about impulsive buy that limit the amount the a dealer can accept on credit card.

I would work on getting preapproved before going to the dealer. I have used COSTCO which has a partnership with Capital One. I have found the blank check program is very easy and provides me with leverage in negotiatiating.

A recent discovery Pentagon Federal Credit Union.

https://www.penfed.org/productsAndRates/loans/vehicleLoans/autoLoans.asp

You can gain access to the credit union by paying a 20$ fee. The rates quoted on new car purchase are 5.29% on up to 72 months financed.

This is a good time of year to buy a car. Your decision should start by identifying whether you are going to go with the 07 or 08 model. The benefit to the 07 is that they usually come with good cash rebates. The downside is that if you look to sell it, it is already a 1 year old car.
T
he 08 model is beneficial when you have a shorter holding period. If you keep you car for 3 years you can sell it in 2010 as a 2 year old vehicle as opposed to 3 years old which reduces your holding costs.

What type of cars are you considering?

[Raybyrnes]

Ricechex

I believe they will only allow you to pay up to $3000 on a credit card purchase for a car so if you have a 0 % deal I see nothing wrong with that and in fact it is what I did when I purchased my own car. There is some strange law about impulsive buy that limit the amount the a dealer can accept on credit card.

I would work on getting preapproved before going to the dealer. I have used COSTCO which has a partnership with Capital One. I have found the blank check program is very easy and provides me with leverage in negotiatiating.

A recent discovery Pentagon Federal Credit Union.

https://www.penfed.org/productsAndRates/loans/vehicleLoans/autoLoans.asp

You can gain access to the credit union by paying a 20$ fee. The rates quoted on new car purchase are 5.29% on up to 72 months financed.

This is a good time of year to buy a car. Your decision should start by identifying whether you are going to go with the 07 or 08 model. The benefit to the 07 is that they usually come with good cash rebates. The downside is that if you look to sell it, it is already a 1 year old car.
T
he 08 model is beneficial when you have a shorter holding period. If you keep you car for 3 years you can sell it in 2010 as a 2 year old vehicle as opposed to 3 years old which reduces your holding costs.

What type of cars are you considering?

[Raybyrnes]

Ricechex

I believe they will only allow you to pay up to $3000 on a credit card purchase for a car so if you have a 0 % deal I see nothing wrong with that and in fact it is what I did when I purchased my own car. There is some strange law about impulsive buy that limit the amount the a dealer can accept on credit card.

I would work on getting preapproved before going to the dealer. I have used COSTCO which has a partnership with Capital One. I have found the blank check program is very easy and provides me with leverage in negotiatiating.

A recent discovery Pentagon Federal Credit Union.

https://www.penfed.org/productsAndRates/loans/vehicleLoans/autoLoans.asp

You can gain access to the credit union by paying a 20$ fee. The rates quoted on new car purchase are 5.29% on up to 72 months financed.

This is a good time of year to buy a car. Your decision should start by identifying whether you are going to go with the 07 or 08 model. The benefit to the 07 is that they usually come with good cash rebates. The downside is that if you look to sell it, it is already a 1 year old car.
T
he 08 model is beneficial when you have a shorter holding period. If you keep you car for 3 years you can sell it in 2010 as a 2 year old vehicle as opposed to 3 years old which reduces your holding costs.

What type of cars are you considering?

[Coronita]

Depending on the make and model, dealers typically allow you to charge anywhere from $1k-$5 for a new car. Don't know for used, because I never bought a used car.

 

My car is in perfect condition and has been well serviced over the years, but every time it goes in the shop, it takes a few days, because they CAN'T get parts cause the car is 12 years old. So, I gotta get a new car, creates too many problems for me when I don't have an operating vehicle.

it's kinda of funny that you used "my car is in perfect condition"  and "can't get parts" in the same sentence. It was amusing. Anyway, mind if I ask what kind of car it is? As a hobby I'm sort of a car junkie?

 

[Coronita]

Depending on the make and model, dealers typically allow you to charge anywhere from $1k-$5 for a new car. Don't know for used, because I never bought a used car.

 

My car is in perfect condition and has been well serviced over the years, but every time it goes in the shop, it takes a few days, because they CAN'T get parts cause the car is 12 years old. So, I gotta get a new car, creates too many problems for me when I don't have an operating vehicle.

it's kinda of funny that you used "my car is in perfect condition"  and "can't get parts" in the same sentence. It was amusing. Anyway, mind if I ask what kind of car it is? As a hobby I'm sort of a car junkie?

 

[Coronita]

Depending on the make and model, dealers typically allow you to charge anywhere from $1k-$5 for a new car. Don't know for used, because I never bought a used car.

 

My car is in perfect condition and has been well serviced over the years, but every time it goes in the shop, it takes a few days, because they CAN'T get parts cause the car is 12 years old. So, I gotta get a new car, creates too many problems for me when I don't have an operating vehicle.

it's kinda of funny that you used "my car is in perfect condition"  and "can't get parts" in the same sentence. It was amusing. Anyway, mind if I ask what kind of car it is? As a hobby I'm sort of a car junkie?

 

[Coronita]

Depending on the make and model, dealers typically allow you to charge anywhere from $1k-$5 for a new car. Don't know for used, because I never bought a used car.

 

My car is in perfect condition and has been well serviced over the years, but every time it goes in the shop, it takes a few days, because they CAN'T get parts cause the car is 12 years old. So, I gotta get a new car, creates too many problems for me when I don't have an operating vehicle.

it's kinda of funny that you used "my car is in perfect condition"  and "can't get parts" in the same sentence. It was amusing. Anyway, mind if I ask what kind of car it is? As a hobby I'm sort of a car junkie?

 

[Coronita]

Depending on the make and model, dealers typically allow you to charge anywhere from $1k-$5 for a new car. Don't know for used, because I never bought a used car.

 

My car is in perfect condition and has been well serviced over the years, but every time it goes in the shop, it takes a few days, because they CAN'T get parts cause the car is 12 years old. So, I gotta get a new car, creates too many problems for me when I don't have an operating vehicle.

it's kinda of funny that you used "my car is in perfect condition"  and "can't get parts" in the same sentence. It was amusing. Anyway, mind if I ask what kind of car it is? As a hobby I'm sort of a car junkie?

 

[Coronita]

All you new car amateur buyers 🙂

If you are buying a new car, why restrict your car purchase to just San Diego dealers?

Do your test drive in a San Diego dealer. Make up your mind (car selection, trim, options). Get your best price from SD dealers.. Call up the L.A. dealers and ask for the internet sales division/fleet sales division. Ask for a fleet/internet salesman's email, because you are from san diego and want to deal over email.

Do the complete haggling over email. If the salesman says he/she will only deal if you come in, refuse and say you live in san diego and don't want to drive there without a written deal in hand..If he/she still refuses, ask for another salesman.. If no salesman are willing to deal this way, move on to another dealer.

 

Over email, ssk for the out the door price because dealers love quote you the price of the car excluding tax/license/registration/"fees". Tell them you're willing to drive up to L.A. to pick up the car if the price is better than S.D, but you don't want to spend a lot of time haggling over it and if you get the runaround, you'll just buy in san diego. Don't tell them how much SD dealers are offering. Most dealers with an "internet" sales division will deal all over the phone/email. Traditional salesman will try to lure you into the showroom. It's simply because interent sales division is counting on volume sales regardless of where the person is from. Showroom salesman will try to milk you, because generally he has less customers he can work with at any time. And most people that work out a deal ahead of time usually are commited custoemrs, as opposed to those that walk in who most of the time are just browsers.

 

Get a few offers from a few L.A. dealers. Each time you talk to a new dealer, never be the first one to name a price. Get the "best price" from the dealer first. The first person that names a price loses. Period… After you get that price, play dealer X off of dealer y, with some reasonable cushion. For example, Keyes Acura in Van Nuyes is willing to do X, are you willing to do X-$200? Or don't even say that. Subtract $200 from what dealer X is actually giving you, and say are you willing to "match" dealer Y's price of blah blah blah. If he/she is a good salesman, you'll never get them to agree on a good price the first time anyway. While you shouldn't lowball (otherwise they won't take you seriously), you defiitely should go a few hundred below what another dealer will actually give you/ You will be surprised how competitive pricing is and how much all the deals come in at the same price. If you get some crap about "we give better service than dealership Y, just remind them you aren't going to be using any LA dealership for service anyway because you are from san diego. I find doing this all over email is great because

1) I suck at this in person

2) I get too emotional in person at times

3) You have a paper trail of all the discussions.

 

Try to do everything over email and not use the phone.

Get your best L.A. price, and if it beats SD dealers, take that price back to the SD dealers to see if they will match. (You did get this in an email right?)

1) If SD dealers matches the price, great. End of story.

2) if the SD dealers don't match (which sometimes they won't because the market price are different in SD and LA), then ask the L.A. dealer to fax you a sales contract with the OTD price. Make sure you have the VIN number that is the car they plan to sell. Tell them you plan on going to LA to pick up the car. Don't give them a deposit, unless you get an assurance (in an email) that the deposit is fully refundable. Arrange with the salesman a time to go to LA. Don't forget to bring all your email correspondence, the OTD price, and any contract or deposit papers your signed.

Drive to LA and pic up the car..(You did remember to bring all your correspondence with the dealer, right? And you aren't planning to change any of the financing terms or options once you get to the dealership, right?) Arrive at the LA dealer, verify the price on the contract is what you were quoted. If not, ask to speak to the sales director and rage hell that you drove all the way to L.A. and the salesman didn't honor the sales term. if the sales director doesn't help, leave and call a complaint to the auto manufacturer's customer service. They won't do this if there is a paper trail…(You did remember to bring the OTD price in an email or contract right?) Alternatively, negotiate the deal with two L.A. dealers, in case one dealership doesn't honor the price, drop by the second dealer. Verify the vin of the car, inspect the car, test drive the car, sign paperwork. Done.

 

Regardless of where you buy, you'll pay the same sales tax (7.75%) because sales tax is computed based on the address where you will be registered, not where you purchased the car (LA sales tax is 8.25%)…There is definitely more competition among L.A. dealears than in San Diego. Most San Diegans are too lazy to go to L.A. to haggle. But there's no need if you do it all over email. Ah the virtues of technology…

Note this works for typical, mass production average consumer volume cars. It might not be so effective with cars that demand is exceeding supply, or high end cars, cars produced in limited quantities, or specialty performance cars. You can forget about getting M3's, M5's, S4's, RS4's, R8, Mercedes AMG's, or any Porsche products at invoice this way. However, if you are in the market for exotics/high end luxury/limited edition sports, it is an effective alternative to being gouged by SD dealers marking up ABOVE MSRP (*cough* Miramar Audi/VW/Porsche *cough*). Plenty of dealers in Newport Beach for never charge above MSRP for low production vehicles. Also, if you need to get on a wait-list or pre-order list for some vehicle, your chances are better in L.A. because L.A. dealers usually have a larger allocation (they deal higher volumes).

Two examples:

Wife and I bought an Acura MDX from a dealer in L.A. SantaMonica and Power acura both had the same price. I think the Van Nuys dealer were willing to do $100 below the other two, but required us to drive 45mins extra, which wasn't worth it for us. While SD dealers were quoting $1000 above invoice (Kearny,Carlsbad), 2-3 dealers gave us $2500 below invoice. SD dealers weren't willing to budge, so we picked it up in L.A. over the weekend.

About 8 months ago, I was looking at a Lexus LS for my parents. While everyone was charging MSRP here since it was a pretty new launch, a few dealers in L.A. was willing to do $2000 below msrp. I then took the price to Kearny Mesa who was then more receptive to matching the price. (Deal fell through because my parents decided they didn't want the car)

Just remember, get the deal before the arriving at the dealership in L.A. The only thing you should be doing at the L.A. dealer is inspecting the exact car you will buy, signing paperwork, giving them money, saying no to all the options like extended warranty/clearcoat/etc they offer in the finance office prior to delivery, and driving off.

Hope this helps.

[nostradamus]

That’s true, I bought my motorcycle that way and LA always seems to have better pricing, probably due to the competition. If you have the time to go to L.A. then that is a great suggestion.

All of the SD dealers I pinged emailed quotes which was very convenient.

[nostradamus]

That’s true, I bought my motorcycle that way and LA always seems to have better pricing, probably due to the competition. If you have the time to go to L.A. then that is a great suggestion.

All of the SD dealers I pinged emailed quotes which was very convenient.

[nostradamus]

That’s true, I bought my motorcycle that way and LA always seems to have better pricing, probably due to the competition. If you have the time to go to L.A. then that is a great suggestion.

All of the SD dealers I pinged emailed quotes which was very convenient.

[nostradamus]

That’s true, I bought my motorcycle that way and LA always seems to have better pricing, probably due to the competition. If you have the time to go to L.A. then that is a great suggestion.

All of the SD dealers I pinged emailed quotes which was very convenient.

[nostradamus]

That’s true, I bought my motorcycle that way and LA always seems to have better pricing, probably due to the competition. If you have the time to go to L.A. then that is a great suggestion.

All of the SD dealers I pinged emailed quotes which was very convenient.

[Raybyrnes]

fat_lazy_union

That is a lot of work that you have to do to get a good deal on a car but i admire the determination. I don’t generally have to haggle. I just ase to speak with a Fleet sales rep and let them know that worked in the Fleet Sales division for Enterprise Rent a Car.

Dealerships need to move units and they know the if I am speaking to them that they are going to move the unit even if the margins are thin. It also helps that I still have my contacts at a couple of hundred dealers.

But I would agree that if you want to get a deal on something other than a Ford or Chevy that you are often times going to have to venture outside of San Diego.

Another recommendation, if you don’t like negotiatiing or the sales process you can use an intermediary. I believe Auto Buyers Consumer Services out of San Marcos does all the shopping around for you. They charge a non refundable fee of $100. Know what you want ahead of time and they will do the rest for you.

Think the owners name is Joe Roberts. Very nice guy. Use to be a former Banker. Servide is legitimate bargain for those who are too busy to spend weekends driving up to LA or those who just detest negotiating or haggling.

[Raybyrnes]

fat_lazy_union

That is a lot of work that you have to do to get a good deal on a car but i admire the determination. I don’t generally have to haggle. I just ase to speak with a Fleet sales rep and let them know that worked in the Fleet Sales division for Enterprise Rent a Car.

Dealerships need to move units and they know the if I am speaking to them that they are going to move the unit even if the margins are thin. It also helps that I still have my contacts at a couple of hundred dealers.

But I would agree that if you want to get a deal on something other than a Ford or Chevy that you are often times going to have to venture outside of San Diego.

Another recommendation, if you don’t like negotiatiing or the sales process you can use an intermediary. I believe Auto Buyers Consumer Services out of San Marcos does all the shopping around for you. They charge a non refundable fee of $100. Know what you want ahead of time and they will do the rest for you.

Think the owners name is Joe Roberts. Very nice guy. Use to be a former Banker. Servide is legitimate bargain for those who are too busy to spend weekends driving up to LA or those who just detest negotiating or haggling.

[Raybyrnes]

fat_lazy_union

That is a lot of work that you have to do to get a good deal on a car but i admire the determination. I don’t generally have to haggle. I just ase to speak with a Fleet sales rep and let them know that worked in the Fleet Sales division for Enterprise Rent a Car.

Dealerships need to move units and they know the if I am speaking to them that they are going to move the unit even if the margins are thin. It also helps that I still have my contacts at a couple of hundred dealers.

But I would agree that if you want to get a deal on something other than a Ford or Chevy that you are often times going to have to venture outside of San Diego.

Another recommendation, if you don’t like negotiatiing or the sales process you can use an intermediary. I believe Auto Buyers Consumer Services out of San Marcos does all the shopping around for you. They charge a non refundable fee of $100. Know what you want ahead of time and they will do the rest for you.

Think the owners name is Joe Roberts. Very nice guy. Use to be a former Banker. Servide is legitimate bargain for those who are too busy to spend weekends driving up to LA or those who just detest negotiating or haggling.

[Raybyrnes]

fat_lazy_union

That is a lot of work that you have to do to get a good deal on a car but i admire the determination. I don’t generally have to haggle. I just ase to speak with a Fleet sales rep and let them know that worked in the Fleet Sales division for Enterprise Rent a Car.

Dealerships need to move units and they know the if I am speaking to them that they are going to move the unit even if the margins are thin. It also helps that I still have my contacts at a couple of hundred dealers.

But I would agree that if you want to get a deal on something other than a Ford or Chevy that you are often times going to have to venture outside of San Diego.

Another recommendation, if you don’t like negotiatiing or the sales process you can use an intermediary. I believe Auto Buyers Consumer Services out of San Marcos does all the shopping around for you. They charge a non refundable fee of $100. Know what you want ahead of time and they will do the rest for you.

Think the owners name is Joe Roberts. Very nice guy. Use to be a former Banker. Servide is legitimate bargain for those who are too busy to spend weekends driving up to LA or those who just detest negotiating or haggling.

[Raybyrnes]

fat_lazy_union

That is a lot of work that you have to do to get a good deal on a car but i admire the determination. I don’t generally have to haggle. I just ase to speak with a Fleet sales rep and let them know that worked in the Fleet Sales division for Enterprise Rent a Car.

Dealerships need to move units and they know the if I am speaking to them that they are going to move the unit even if the margins are thin. It also helps that I still have my contacts at a couple of hundred dealers.

But I would agree that if you want to get a deal on something other than a Ford or Chevy that you are often times going to have to venture outside of San Diego.

Another recommendation, if you don’t like negotiatiing or the sales process you can use an intermediary. I believe Auto Buyers Consumer Services out of San Marcos does all the shopping around for you. They charge a non refundable fee of $100. Know what you want ahead of time and they will do the rest for you.

Think the owners name is Joe Roberts. Very nice guy. Use to be a former Banker. Servide is legitimate bargain for those who are too busy to spend weekends driving up to LA or those who just detest negotiating or haggling.

[Coronita]

All you new car amateur buyers 🙂

If you are buying a new car, why restrict your car purchase to just San Diego dealers?

Do your test drive in a San Diego dealer. Make up your mind (car selection, trim, options). Get your best price from SD dealers.. Call up the L.A. dealers and ask for the internet sales division/fleet sales division. Ask for a fleet/internet salesman's email, because you are from san diego and want to deal over email.

Do the complete haggling over email. If the salesman says he/she will only deal if you come in, refuse and say you live in san diego and don't want to drive there without a written deal in hand..If he/she still refuses, ask for another salesman.. If no salesman are willing to deal this way, move on to another dealer.

 

Over email, ssk for the out the door price because dealers love quote you the price of the car excluding tax/license/registration/"fees". Tell them you're willing to drive up to L.A. to pick up the car if the price is better than S.D, but you don't want to spend a lot of time haggling over it and if you get the runaround, you'll just buy in san diego. Don't tell them how much SD dealers are offering. Most dealers with an "internet" sales division will deal all over the phone/email. Traditional salesman will try to lure you into the showroom. It's simply because interent sales division is counting on volume sales regardless of where the person is from. Showroom salesman will try to milk you, because generally he has less customers he can work with at any time. And most people that work out a deal ahead of time usually are commited custoemrs, as opposed to those that walk in who most of the time are just browsers.

 

Get a few offers from a few L.A. dealers. Each time you talk to a new dealer, never be the first one to name a price. Get the "best price" from the dealer first. The first person that names a price loses. Period… After you get that price, play dealer X off of dealer y, with some reasonable cushion. For example, Keyes Acura in Van Nuyes is willing to do X, are you willing to do X-$200? Or don't even say that. Subtract $200 from what dealer X is actually giving you, and say are you willing to "match" dealer Y's price of blah blah blah. If he/she is a good salesman, you'll never get them to agree on a good price the first time anyway. While you shouldn't lowball (otherwise they won't take you seriously), you defiitely should go a few hundred below what another dealer will actually give you/ You will be surprised how competitive pricing is and how much all the deals come in at the same price. If you get some crap about "we give better service than dealership Y, just remind them you aren't going to be using any LA dealership for service anyway because you are from san diego. I find doing this all over email is great because

1) I suck at this in person

2) I get too emotional in person at times

3) You have a paper trail of all the discussions.

 

Try to do everything over email and not use the phone.

Get your best L.A. price, and if it beats SD dealers, take that price back to the SD dealers to see if they will match. (You did get this in an email right?)

1) If SD dealers matches the price, great. End of story.

2) if the SD dealers don't match (which sometimes they won't because the market price are different in SD and LA), then ask the L.A. dealer to fax you a sales contract with the OTD price. Make sure you have the VIN number that is the car they plan to sell. Tell them you plan on going to LA to pick up the car. Don't give them a deposit, unless you get an assurance (in an email) that the deposit is fully refundable. Arrange with the salesman a time to go to LA. Don't forget to bring all your email correspondence, the OTD price, and any contract or deposit papers your signed.

Drive to LA and pic up the car..(You did remember to bring all your correspondence with the dealer, right? And you aren't planning to change any of the financing terms or options once you get to the dealership, right?) Arrive at the LA dealer, verify the price on the contract is what you were quoted. If not, ask to speak to the sales director and rage hell that you drove all the way to L.A. and the salesman didn't honor the sales term. if the sales director doesn't help, leave and call a complaint to the auto manufacturer's customer service. They won't do this if there is a paper trail…(You did remember to bring the OTD price in an email or contract right?) Alternatively, negotiate the deal with two L.A. dealers, in case one dealership doesn't honor the price, drop by the second dealer. Verify the vin of the car, inspect the car, test drive the car, sign paperwork. Done.

 

Regardless of where you buy, you'll pay the same sales tax (7.75%) because sales tax is computed based on the address where you will be registered, not where you purchased the car (LA sales tax is 8.25%)…There is definitely more competition among L.A. dealears than in San Diego. Most San Diegans are too lazy to go to L.A. to haggle. But there's no need if you do it all over email. Ah the virtues of technology…

Note this works for typical, mass production average consumer volume cars. It might not be so effective with cars that demand is exceeding supply, or high end cars, cars produced in limited quantities, or specialty performance cars. You can forget about getting M3's, M5's, S4's, RS4's, R8, Mercedes AMG's, or any Porsche products at invoice this way. However, if you are in the market for exotics/high end luxury/limited edition sports, it is an effective alternative to being gouged by SD dealers marking up ABOVE MSRP (*cough* Miramar Audi/VW/Porsche *cough*). Plenty of dealers in Newport Beach for never charge above MSRP for low production vehicles. Also, if you need to get on a wait-list or pre-order list for some vehicle, your chances are better in L.A. because L.A. dealers usually have a larger allocation (they deal higher volumes).

Two examples:

Wife and I bought an Acura MDX from a dealer in L.A. SantaMonica and Power acura both had the same price. I think the Van Nuys dealer were willing to do $100 below the other two, but required us to drive 45mins extra, which wasn't worth it for us. While SD dealers were quoting $1000 above invoice (Kearny,Carlsbad), 2-3 dealers gave us $2500 below invoice. SD dealers weren't willing to budge, so we picked it up in L.A. over the weekend.

About 8 months ago, I was looking at a Lexus LS for my parents. While everyone was charging MSRP here since it was a pretty new launch, a few dealers in L.A. was willing to do $2000 below msrp. I then took the price to Kearny Mesa who was then more receptive to matching the price. (Deal fell through because my parents decided they didn't want the car)

Just remember, get the deal before the arriving at the dealership in L.A. The only thing you should be doing at the L.A. dealer is inspecting the exact car you will buy, signing paperwork, giving them money, saying no to all the options like extended warranty/clearcoat/etc they offer in the finance office prior to delivery, and driving off.

Hope this helps.

[Coronita]

All you new car amateur buyers 🙂

If you are buying a new car, why restrict your car purchase to just San Diego dealers?

Do your test drive in a San Diego dealer. Make up your mind (car selection, trim, options). Get your best price from SD dealers.. Call up the L.A. dealers and ask for the internet sales division/fleet sales division. Ask for a fleet/internet salesman's email, because you are from san diego and want to deal over email.

Do the complete haggling over email. If the salesman says he/she will only deal if you come in, refuse and say you live in san diego and don't want to drive there without a written deal in hand..If he/she still refuses, ask for another salesman.. If no salesman are willing to deal this way, move on to another dealer.

 

Over email, ssk for the out the door price because dealers love quote you the price of the car excluding tax/license/registration/"fees". Tell them you're willing to drive up to L.A. to pick up the car if the price is better than S.D, but you don't want to spend a lot of time haggling over it and if you get the runaround, you'll just buy in san diego. Don't tell them how much SD dealers are offering. Most dealers with an "internet" sales division will deal all over the phone/email. Traditional salesman will try to lure you into the showroom. It's simply because interent sales division is counting on volume sales regardless of where the person is from. Showroom salesman will try to milk you, because generally he has less customers he can work with at any time. And most people that work out a deal ahead of time usually are commited custoemrs, as opposed to those that walk in who most of the time are just browsers.

 

Get a few offers from a few L.A. dealers. Each time you talk to a new dealer, never be the first one to name a price. Get the "best price" from the dealer first. The first person that names a price loses. Period… After you get that price, play dealer X off of dealer y, with some reasonable cushion. For example, Keyes Acura in Van Nuyes is willing to do X, are you willing to do X-$200? Or don't even say that. Subtract $200 from what dealer X is actually giving you, and say are you willing to "match" dealer Y's price of blah blah blah. If he/she is a good salesman, you'll never get them to agree on a good price the first time anyway. While you shouldn't lowball (otherwise they won't take you seriously), you defiitely should go a few hundred below what another dealer will actually give you/ You will be surprised how competitive pricing is and how much all the deals come in at the same price. If you get some crap about "we give better service than dealership Y, just remind them you aren't going to be using any LA dealership for service anyway because you are from san diego. I find doing this all over email is great because

1) I suck at this in person

2) I get too emotional in person at times

3) You have a paper trail of all the discussions.

 

Try to do everything over email and not use the phone.

Get your best L.A. price, and if it beats SD dealers, take that price back to the SD dealers to see if they will match. (You did get this in an email right?)

1) If SD dealers matches the price, great. End of story.

2) if the SD dealers don't match (which sometimes they won't because the market price are different in SD and LA), then ask the L.A. dealer to fax you a sales contract with the OTD price. Make sure you have the VIN number that is the car they plan to sell. Tell them you plan on going to LA to pick up the car. Don't give them a deposit, unless you get an assurance (in an email) that the deposit is fully refundable. Arrange with the salesman a time to go to LA. Don't forget to bring all your email correspondence, the OTD price, and any contract or deposit papers your signed.

Drive to LA and pic up the car..(You did remember to bring all your correspondence with the dealer, right? And you aren't planning to change any of the financing terms or options once you get to the dealership, right?) Arrive at the LA dealer, verify the price on the contract is what you were quoted. If not, ask to speak to the sales director and rage hell that you drove all the way to L.A. and the salesman didn't honor the sales term. if the sales director doesn't help, leave and call a complaint to the auto manufacturer's customer service. They won't do this if there is a paper trail…(You did remember to bring the OTD price in an email or contract right?) Alternatively, negotiate the deal with two L.A. dealers, in case one dealership doesn't honor the price, drop by the second dealer. Verify the vin of the car, inspect the car, test drive the car, sign paperwork. Done.

 

Regardless of where you buy, you'll pay the same sales tax (7.75%) because sales tax is computed based on the address where you will be registered, not where you purchased the car (LA sales tax is 8.25%)…There is definitely more competition among L.A. dealears than in San Diego. Most San Diegans are too lazy to go to L.A. to haggle. But there's no need if you do it all over email. Ah the virtues of technology…

Note this works for typical, mass production average consumer volume cars. It might not be so effective with cars that demand is exceeding supply, or high end cars, cars produced in limited quantities, or specialty performance cars. You can forget about getting M3's, M5's, S4's, RS4's, R8, Mercedes AMG's, or any Porsche products at invoice this way. However, if you are in the market for exotics/high end luxury/limited edition sports, it is an effective alternative to being gouged by SD dealers marking up ABOVE MSRP (*cough* Miramar Audi/VW/Porsche *cough*). Plenty of dealers in Newport Beach for never charge above MSRP for low production vehicles. Also, if you need to get on a wait-list or pre-order list for some vehicle, your chances are better in L.A. because L.A. dealers usually have a larger allocation (they deal higher volumes).

Two examples:

Wife and I bought an Acura MDX from a dealer in L.A. SantaMonica and Power acura both had the same price. I think the Van Nuys dealer were willing to do $100 below the other two, but required us to drive 45mins extra, which wasn't worth it for us. While SD dealers were quoting $1000 above invoice (Kearny,Carlsbad), 2-3 dealers gave us $2500 below invoice. SD dealers weren't willing to budge, so we picked it up in L.A. over the weekend.

About 8 months ago, I was looking at a Lexus LS for my parents. While everyone was charging MSRP here since it was a pretty new launch, a few dealers in L.A. was willing to do $2000 below msrp. I then took the price to Kearny Mesa who was then more receptive to matching the price. (Deal fell through because my parents decided they didn't want the car)

Just remember, get the deal before the arriving at the dealership in L.A. The only thing you should be doing at the L.A. dealer is inspecting the exact car you will buy, signing paperwork, giving them money, saying no to all the options like extended warranty/clearcoat/etc they offer in the finance office prior to delivery, and driving off.

Hope this helps.

[Coronita]

All you new car amateur buyers 🙂

If you are buying a new car, why restrict your car purchase to just San Diego dealers?

Do your test drive in a San Diego dealer. Make up your mind (car selection, trim, options). Get your best price from SD dealers.. Call up the L.A. dealers and ask for the internet sales division/fleet sales division. Ask for a fleet/internet salesman's email, because you are from san diego and want to deal over email.

Do the complete haggling over email. If the salesman says he/she will only deal if you come in, refuse and say you live in san diego and don't want to drive there without a written deal in hand..If he/she still refuses, ask for another salesman.. If no salesman are willing to deal this way, move on to another dealer.

 

Over email, ssk for the out the door price because dealers love quote you the price of the car excluding tax/license/registration/"fees". Tell them you're willing to drive up to L.A. to pick up the car if the price is better than S.D, but you don't want to spend a lot of time haggling over it and if you get the runaround, you'll just buy in san diego. Don't tell them how much SD dealers are offering. Most dealers with an "internet" sales division will deal all over the phone/email. Traditional salesman will try to lure you into the showroom. It's simply because interent sales division is counting on volume sales regardless of where the person is from. Showroom salesman will try to milk you, because generally he has less customers he can work with at any time. And most people that work out a deal ahead of time usually are commited custoemrs, as opposed to those that walk in who most of the time are just browsers.

 

Get a few offers from a few L.A. dealers. Each time you talk to a new dealer, never be the first one to name a price. Get the "best price" from the dealer first. The first person that names a price loses. Period… After you get that price, play dealer X off of dealer y, with some reasonable cushion. For example, Keyes Acura in Van Nuyes is willing to do X, are you willing to do X-$200? Or don't even say that. Subtract $200 from what dealer X is actually giving you, and say are you willing to "match" dealer Y's price of blah blah blah. If he/she is a good salesman, you'll never get them to agree on a good price the first time anyway. While you shouldn't lowball (otherwise they won't take you seriously), you defiitely should go a few hundred below what another dealer will actually give you/ You will be surprised how competitive pricing is and how much all the deals come in at the same price. If you get some crap about "we give better service than dealership Y, just remind them you aren't going to be using any LA dealership for service anyway because you are from san diego. I find doing this all over email is great because

1) I suck at this in person

2) I get too emotional in person at times

3) You have a paper trail of all the discussions.

 

Try to do everything over email and not use the phone.

Get your best L.A. price, and if it beats SD dealers, take that price back to the SD dealers to see if they will match. (You did get this in an email right?)

1) If SD dealers matches the price, great. End of story.

2) if the SD dealers don't match (which sometimes they won't because the market price are different in SD and LA), then ask the L.A. dealer to fax you a sales contract with the OTD price. Make sure you have the VIN number that is the car they plan to sell. Tell them you plan on going to LA to pick up the car. Don't give them a deposit, unless you get an assurance (in an email) that the deposit is fully refundable. Arrange with the salesman a time to go to LA. Don't forget to bring all your email correspondence, the OTD price, and any contract or deposit papers your signed.

Drive to LA and pic up the car..(You did remember to bring all your correspondence with the dealer, right? And you aren't planning to change any of the financing terms or options once you get to the dealership, right?) Arrive at the LA dealer, verify the price on the contract is what you were quoted. If not, ask to speak to the sales director and rage hell that you drove all the way to L.A. and the salesman didn't honor the sales term. if the sales director doesn't help, leave and call a complaint to the auto manufacturer's customer service. They won't do this if there is a paper trail…(You did remember to bring the OTD price in an email or contract right?) Alternatively, negotiate the deal with two L.A. dealers, in case one dealership doesn't honor the price, drop by the second dealer. Verify the vin of the car, inspect the car, test drive the car, sign paperwork. Done.

 

Regardless of where you buy, you'll pay the same sales tax (7.75%) because sales tax is computed based on the address where you will be registered, not where you purchased the car (LA sales tax is 8.25%)…There is definitely more competition among L.A. dealears than in San Diego. Most San Diegans are too lazy to go to L.A. to haggle. But there's no need if you do it all over email. Ah the virtues of technology…

Note this works for typical, mass production average consumer volume cars. It might not be so effective with cars that demand is exceeding supply, or high end cars, cars produced in limited quantities, or specialty performance cars. You can forget about getting M3's, M5's, S4's, RS4's, R8, Mercedes AMG's, or any Porsche products at invoice this way. However, if you are in the market for exotics/high end luxury/limited edition sports, it is an effective alternative to being gouged by SD dealers marking up ABOVE MSRP (*cough* Miramar Audi/VW/Porsche *cough*). Plenty of dealers in Newport Beach for never charge above MSRP for low production vehicles. Also, if you need to get on a wait-list or pre-order list for some vehicle, your chances are better in L.A. because L.A. dealers usually have a larger allocation (they deal higher volumes).

Two examples:

Wife and I bought an Acura MDX from a dealer in L.A. SantaMonica and Power acura both had the same price. I think the Van Nuys dealer were willing to do $100 below the other two, but required us to drive 45mins extra, which wasn't worth it for us. While SD dealers were quoting $1000 above invoice (Kearny,Carlsbad), 2-3 dealers gave us $2500 below invoice. SD dealers weren't willing to budge, so we picked it up in L.A. over the weekend.

About 8 months ago, I was looking at a Lexus LS for my parents. While everyone was charging MSRP here since it was a pretty new launch, a few dealers in L.A. was willing to do $2000 below msrp. I then took the price to Kearny Mesa who was then more receptive to matching the price. (Deal fell through because my parents decided they didn't want the car)

Just remember, get the deal before the arriving at the dealership in L.A. The only thing you should be doing at the L.A. dealer is inspecting the exact car you will buy, signing paperwork, giving them money, saying no to all the options like extended warranty/clearcoat/etc they offer in the finance office prior to delivery, and driving off.

Hope this helps.

[Coronita]

All you new car amateur buyers 🙂

If you are buying a new car, why restrict your car purchase to just San Diego dealers?

Do your test drive in a San Diego dealer. Make up your mind (car selection, trim, options). Get your best price from SD dealers.. Call up the L.A. dealers and ask for the internet sales division/fleet sales division. Ask for a fleet/internet salesman's email, because you are from san diego and want to deal over email.

Do the complete haggling over email. If the salesman says he/she will only deal if you come in, refuse and say you live in san diego and don't want to drive there without a written deal in hand..If he/she still refuses, ask for another salesman.. If no salesman are willing to deal this way, move on to another dealer.

 

Over email, ssk for the out the door price because dealers love quote you the price of the car excluding tax/license/registration/"fees". Tell them you're willing to drive up to L.A. to pick up the car if the price is better than S.D, but you don't want to spend a lot of time haggling over it and if you get the runaround, you'll just buy in san diego. Don't tell them how much SD dealers are offering. Most dealers with an "internet" sales division will deal all over the phone/email. Traditional salesman will try to lure you into the showroom. It's simply because interent sales division is counting on volume sales regardless of where the person is from. Showroom salesman will try to milk you, because generally he has less customers he can work with at any time. And most people that work out a deal ahead of time usually are commited custoemrs, as opposed to those that walk in who most of the time are just browsers.

 

Get a few offers from a few L.A. dealers. Each time you talk to a new dealer, never be the first one to name a price. Get the "best price" from the dealer first. The first person that names a price loses. Period… After you get that price, play dealer X off of dealer y, with some reasonable cushion. For example, Keyes Acura in Van Nuyes is willing to do X, are you willing to do X-$200? Or don't even say that. Subtract $200 from what dealer X is actually giving you, and say are you willing to "match" dealer Y's price of blah blah blah. If he/she is a good salesman, you'll never get them to agree on a good price the first time anyway. While you shouldn't lowball (otherwise they won't take you seriously), you defiitely should go a few hundred below what another dealer will actually give you/ You will be surprised how competitive pricing is and how much all the deals come in at the same price. If you get some crap about "we give better service than dealership Y, just remind them you aren't going to be using any LA dealership for service anyway because you are from san diego. I find doing this all over email is great because

1) I suck at this in person

2) I get too emotional in person at times

3) You have a paper trail of all the discussions.

 

Try to do everything over email and not use the phone.

Get your best L.A. price, and if it beats SD dealers, take that price back to the SD dealers to see if they will match. (You did get this in an email right?)

1) If SD dealers matches the price, great. End of story.

2) if the SD dealers don't match (which sometimes they won't because the market price are different in SD and LA), then ask the L.A. dealer to fax you a sales contract with the OTD price. Make sure you have the VIN number that is the car they plan to sell. Tell them you plan on going to LA to pick up the car. Don't give them a deposit, unless you get an assurance (in an email) that the deposit is fully refundable. Arrange with the salesman a time to go to LA. Don't forget to bring all your email correspondence, the OTD price, and any contract or deposit papers your signed.

Drive to LA and pic up the car..(You did remember to bring all your correspondence with the dealer, right? And you aren't planning to change any of the financing terms or options once you get to the dealership, right?) Arrive at the LA dealer, verify the price on the contract is what you were quoted. If not, ask to speak to the sales director and rage hell that you drove all the way to L.A. and the salesman didn't honor the sales term. if the sales director doesn't help, leave and call a complaint to the auto manufacturer's customer service. They won't do this if there is a paper trail…(You did remember to bring the OTD price in an email or contract right?) Alternatively, negotiate the deal with two L.A. dealers, in case one dealership doesn't honor the price, drop by the second dealer. Verify the vin of the car, inspect the car, test drive the car, sign paperwork. Done.

 

Regardless of where you buy, you'll pay the same sales tax (7.75%) because sales tax is computed based on the address where you will be registered, not where you purchased the car (LA sales tax is 8.25%)…There is definitely more competition among L.A. dealears than in San Diego. Most San Diegans are too lazy to go to L.A. to haggle. But there's no need if you do it all over email. Ah the virtues of technology…

Note this works for typical, mass production average consumer volume cars. It might not be so effective with cars that demand is exceeding supply, or high end cars, cars produced in limited quantities, or specialty performance cars. You can forget about getting M3's, M5's, S4's, RS4's, R8, Mercedes AMG's, or any Porsche products at invoice this way. However, if you are in the market for exotics/high end luxury/limited edition sports, it is an effective alternative to being gouged by SD dealers marking up ABOVE MSRP (*cough* Miramar Audi/VW/Porsche *cough*). Plenty of dealers in Newport Beach for never charge above MSRP for low production vehicles. Also, if you need to get on a wait-list or pre-order list for some vehicle, your chances are better in L.A. because L.A. dealers usually have a larger allocation (they deal higher volumes).

Two examples:

Wife and I bought an Acura MDX from a dealer in L.A. SantaMonica and Power acura both had the same price. I think the Van Nuys dealer were willing to do $100 below the other two, but required us to drive 45mins extra, which wasn't worth it for us. While SD dealers were quoting $1000 above invoice (Kearny,Carlsbad), 2-3 dealers gave us $2500 below invoice. SD dealers weren't willing to budge, so we picked it up in L.A. over the weekend.

About 8 months ago, I was looking at a Lexus LS for my parents. While everyone was charging MSRP here since it was a pretty new launch, a few dealers in L.A. was willing to do $2000 below msrp. I then took the price to Kearny Mesa who was then more receptive to matching the price. (Deal fell through because my parents decided they didn't want the car)

Just remember, get the deal before the arriving at the dealership in L.A. The only thing you should be doing at the L.A. dealer is inspecting the exact car you will buy, signing paperwork, giving them money, saying no to all the options like extended warranty/clearcoat/etc they offer in the finance office prior to delivery, and driving off.

Hope this helps.

[Raybyrnes]

Good Deals

Ricechex

Perry Ford
NEW 2007 Ford Fusion S 11995

Kearney Mesa Hyundai
2008 Hyundai Sonata $13750
* Requires MIlitary for *500 otherwise $14250

[Ricechex]

Hello All,
I wanted to tell you that I finally bought a car last week!

I have been visiting Westcott Mazda on and off for about a year. Though, I am pleasant, I think they were just sick of me and gave me a deal.

I ended up with a 2008 Mazda6, 4800 miles, full warranty, for $16,500 out the door (including tax, registration, etc).

I am really super nervous driving this new car though! Never owned a new car in my life, but it was time…

Anyone interested in 1995 Mazda Protege? I have all the maintenance records.

[Coronita]

Ricecheck good for you. Sounds like you got a pretty good price and you should be able to drive it too the grave…

Some advice. Take a knife and scratch your new car in some really inconspicuous place. The first injury is always the most difficult. The sooner you get it over with, the better off you’ll be.

I guess you don’t want to hear about the 2009 Mazda 9? Just kidding. Don’t listen to me….It’s a great car, enjoy it.

[Bugs]

Ricechex,

That sounds like an awesome deal, good for you.

————
FLU,

Best. Advice. Ever.

I have written it down for future reference.

[Bugs]

Ricechex,

That sounds like an awesome deal, good for you.

————
FLU,

Best. Advice. Ever.

I have written it down for future reference.

[Bugs]

Ricechex,

That sounds like an awesome deal, good for you.

————
FLU,

Best. Advice. Ever.

I have written it down for future reference.

[Bugs]

Ricechex,

That sounds like an awesome deal, good for you.

————
FLU,

Best. Advice. Ever.

I have written it down for future reference.

[Bugs]

Ricechex,

That sounds like an awesome deal, good for you.

————
FLU,

Best. Advice. Ever.

I have written it down for future reference.

[Coronita]

Ricecheck good for you. Sounds like you got a pretty good price and you should be able to drive it too the grave…

Some advice. Take a knife and scratch your new car in some really inconspicuous place. The first injury is always the most difficult. The sooner you get it over with, the better off you’ll be.

I guess you don’t want to hear about the 2009 Mazda 9? Just kidding. Don’t listen to me….It’s a great car, enjoy it.

[Coronita]

Ricecheck good for you. Sounds like you got a pretty good price and you should be able to drive it too the grave…

Some advice. Take a knife and scratch your new car in some really inconspicuous place. The first injury is always the most difficult. The sooner you get it over with, the better off you’ll be.

I guess you don’t want to hear about the 2009 Mazda 9? Just kidding. Don’t listen to me….It’s a great car, enjoy it.

[Coronita]

Ricecheck good for you. Sounds like you got a pretty good price and you should be able to drive it too the grave…

Some advice. Take a knife and scratch your new car in some really inconspicuous place. The first injury is always the most difficult. The sooner you get it over with, the better off you’ll be.

I guess you don’t want to hear about the 2009 Mazda 9? Just kidding. Don’t listen to me….It’s a great car, enjoy it.

[Coronita]

Ricecheck good for you. Sounds like you got a pretty good price and you should be able to drive it too the grave…

Some advice. Take a knife and scratch your new car in some really inconspicuous place. The first injury is always the most difficult. The sooner you get it over with, the better off you’ll be.

I guess you don’t want to hear about the 2009 Mazda 9? Just kidding. Don’t listen to me….It’s a great car, enjoy it.

[Ricechex]

Hello All,
I wanted to tell you that I finally bought a car last week!

I have been visiting Westcott Mazda on and off for about a year. Though, I am pleasant, I think they were just sick of me and gave me a deal.

I ended up with a 2008 Mazda6, 4800 miles, full warranty, for $16,500 out the door (including tax, registration, etc).

I am really super nervous driving this new car though! Never owned a new car in my life, but it was time…

Anyone interested in 1995 Mazda Protege? I have all the maintenance records.

[Ricechex]

Hello All,
I wanted to tell you that I finally bought a car last week!

I have been visiting Westcott Mazda on and off for about a year. Though, I am pleasant, I think they were just sick of me and gave me a deal.

I ended up with a 2008 Mazda6, 4800 miles, full warranty, for $16,500 out the door (including tax, registration, etc).

I am really super nervous driving this new car though! Never owned a new car in my life, but it was time…

Anyone interested in 1995 Mazda Protege? I have all the maintenance records.

[Ricechex]

Hello All,
I wanted to tell you that I finally bought a car last week!

I have been visiting Westcott Mazda on and off for about a year. Though, I am pleasant, I think they were just sick of me and gave me a deal.

I ended up with a 2008 Mazda6, 4800 miles, full warranty, for $16,500 out the door (including tax, registration, etc).

I am really super nervous driving this new car though! Never owned a new car in my life, but it was time…

Anyone interested in 1995 Mazda Protege? I have all the maintenance records.

[Ricechex]

Hello All,
I wanted to tell you that I finally bought a car last week!

I have been visiting Westcott Mazda on and off for about a year. Though, I am pleasant, I think they were just sick of me and gave me a deal.

I ended up with a 2008 Mazda6, 4800 miles, full warranty, for $16,500 out the door (including tax, registration, etc).

I am really super nervous driving this new car though! Never owned a new car in my life, but it was time…

Anyone interested in 1995 Mazda Protege? I have all the maintenance records.

[Raybyrnes]

Good Deals

Ricechex

Perry Ford
NEW 2007 Ford Fusion S 11995

Kearney Mesa Hyundai
2008 Hyundai Sonata $13750
* Requires MIlitary for *500 otherwise $14250

[Raybyrnes]

Good Deals

Ricechex

Perry Ford
NEW 2007 Ford Fusion S 11995

Kearney Mesa Hyundai
2008 Hyundai Sonata $13750
* Requires MIlitary for *500 otherwise $14250

[Raybyrnes]

Good Deals

Ricechex

Perry Ford
NEW 2007 Ford Fusion S 11995

Kearney Mesa Hyundai
2008 Hyundai Sonata $13750
* Requires MIlitary for *500 otherwise $14250

[Raybyrnes]

Good Deals

Ricechex

Perry Ford
NEW 2007 Ford Fusion S 11995

Kearney Mesa Hyundai
2008 Hyundai Sonata $13750
* Requires MIlitary for *500 otherwise $14250

[Author]

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