OT: auto buffs: topside oil extractor vs traditional drain plug and oil pan

[outtamojo]

Hi all -I am tired of jacking and crawling and positioning drain pan and wiping up oil spots when I change the oil on my various cars. Anyone use a topside oil extractor ? What are the pluses and minuses?

[an]

I think the only down side is it’s an expensive tool vs an oil pan, but not having to craw under you car might be worth the price.

[outtamojo]

I see this one for $79.
http://blog.bavauto.com/8511/changing-the-oil-in-a-bmw-or-mini-vacuum-method-diy-video/

I hope it fits my other cars too. I am getting too old to crawl under cars : (

[an]

Even if you’re not old, if you don’t mind paying ~$80, I think it’s worth it. I think it’s worth it more with German cars, since their oil filters tend to be top mount. For most if not all Japanese and American cars, the oil filter is at the bottom of the car, so you’d still have to get underneath to change the filter anyways.

[Coronita]

I thought about getting one of these awhile ago, because I’m all for saving time, but then decided against it because for me.

*Neither the X5 or the 550 have a dipstick, so I wouldn’t be able to use it for those cars. Draining the oil isn’t going to be the issue….Refilling the oil back to the correct level without a physical dipstick is always a bundle of joy. Fortunately, this only needs to be done roughly once a year, according to my logs.

*The audi and miata would be a beneficiary to this extractor… Both are a bigger pain, because I need to take off the splash shield to get to the drain plug. But being that both cars are boosted, I wouldn’t feel comfortable not draining the oil from the bottom. The audi can go 6 months between intervals. The miata, I go roughly every 2 or 3 autocross, or roughly every 2 – 3 months. … But I need to crawl under the car often to do a safety check anyway.

That leaves the mercedes. The drain interval is 1 year, and it’s relatively easy to access the drain plug. So I didn’t think it was worthwhile for me to get this just for 1 car.

If you really don’t like to crawl under the car, just pay someone to do it. Especially if you don’t need to use synthetic, it won’t cost *that* much. Personally, I don’t think I could ever trust one of these extractors that do it from the top.

If you’re tired or jacking up your car, buy yourself a nice set of ramps.

[spdrun]

Fumoto nipple. Position pan, reach under, open valve.

[svelte]

I’m not sure how this keeps you from crawling under the car – don’t you still have to change the oil filter?

I stopped changing my oil long ago. Doesn’t cost that much more to have the shop do it.

[edit: just read AN’s comment about US/JPN vs GER…concur]

[spdrun]

Some cars have the oil filter on top of the motor.

[Coronita]

[quote=svelte]I’m not sure how this keeps you from crawling under the car – don’t you still have to change the oil filter?

I stopped changing my oil long ago. Doesn’t cost that much more to have the shop do it.

[edit: just read AN’s comment about US/JPN vs GER…concur][/quote]

A lot of the newer car, the filter is a canister type that is accessed from on top of the engine bay. Most 6 cylinder BMW engines are like that these days. The 8 cylinder is usually at the bottom, since there’s no room on top.

[Coronita]

[quote=spdrun]Fumoto nipple. Position pan, reach under, open valve.[/quote]

Unless you have a plastic cover you need to remove first.

[spdrun]

Drill two holes, one for a Tygon hose attached to the nipple, one about 2″ dia, bit enough to operate the valve.

[Coronita]

[quote=spdrun]Drill two holes, one for a Tygon hose attached to the nipple, one about 2″ dia, bit enough to operate the valve.[/quote]

Then, what’s the point of having underbelly pan? The purpose of it can be for aero, airflow, or simply protection from soot on the ground. Plus using a valve has two issues. 1. They can fail.
2. Being that part of the thread remains in the pan, depending on the angle of the drain plug, you aren’t really going to drain the tiny amount of oil still stuck at the bottom of the pan.

You really aren’t saving that much time between unscrewing a drain plug and using one of these valve-based drain plugs..

[spdrun]

Two holes, one 1/2″ dia, the other 2″ dia won’t affect airflow or dirt entry much. Plug the 2″ hole with a plastic bung and make the hole for the hose a tight fit if you’re feeling particular.

As far as the length of the valve’s thread, that’s a valid concern. But honestly, you’ll never get ALL of the oil out of a motor — some will always be left. As long as you get 95%, it doesn’t really matter. If you want to, you can also measure the thickness of the pan metal and cut the valve threads to be the same length.

But a topsider has the same issue of not draining ALL of the oil.

The purpose of the valve isn’t to save time as much as save scut work. With the valve, you can drive up on ramps, stick the hose in an empty oil bottle, flip the handle and drain the oil into the bottle. No drips, no oily socket wrenches, no wiping an oil drain pan.

[outtamojo]

I like this metal one better http://www.airpoweramerica.com/Topsider-MVP-Oil-Changer_p_13.html

It’s got replacement parts you can buy for it too.

Topside vs drain plug is apparently like ios vs android or something. I guess it all depends on the cars you have. Yeah it doesn’t cost that much more to pay someone to do it
but I’ve grown to dislike waiting around seemingly forever while it’s being done. Nothing like being a grumpy old man….

[an]

I personally alternate taking it to the dealer and doing it myself. When I take it to the dealer, I bring my own oil and filter and they do the labor for ~$22 and they wash/vacuum and inspect my car as well. I do have ramps, so it’s easy to drive up and do the job, but it does require me to go under the car. But since I only do it myself every other oil change, I would only have to get under the car once every 12-18 months.

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