Gov’t giving you $4500 to trade in your old car,

[Coronita]

[quote=paramount][quote=briansd1]Just an indirect giveaway to the dealers and car companies. And another way to get Americans into debt.

Try negotiating a cash deal on a car and once the price is agree upon, tell them what you want to turn in your old clunker and get $4,500 + $4,500 ($9,000) off the price of the purchase.

They won’t sell the car to you. They’ll come up with some lame excuse that, unfortunately, that one unique car has been sold by the manager already (or some excuse like that).[/quote]

I agree 100%.[/quote]

I disagree with that…First, the $4500 credit from the government is just that. It’s money from the fed…..They don’t care how you pay for $X…So long as you pay for $X. You could come up with $X or $X-4500 and let the 4500 come from the fed, they don’t care….We, taxpayers are footing this subsidy.

Second, the other $4500 credit is a rebate that some (not all) manufacturers are offering…There is no scam in this. Now, if you don’t negotiate well, you probably won’t see the entire $4500…But i can tell, you it’s real. Just for kicks, I’m talking to some BMW dealers to see how low they’re willing to sell a 335d, and they are definitely discounting them (I won’t say how much). It only applies to the 335d, because americans for some reason don’t like diesels.

[briansd1]

flu, I’ll give you the benefit of the doubt.

But if what you say is true, then you could negotiate a cash deal for say $30,000.

Then when you turn in your clunker, you’ll get an additional $4,500 federal rebate + $4,500 manufacturer incentive. Your net cost would be $21,000.

BTW, is tax before rebate or after rebate?

I have a feeling the full $4,500 is not going to the consumer. The dealers get $4,500 from the Feds but if they don’t pass is all along, then they are double dipping. Not only are the taxpayers subsidizing their sales but we are also subsidizing their profit margins.

Remember, most car buyers don’t buy with cash. They buy on the monthly payments they can afford and that’s what the sales tactics are based upon.

When shopping for cars, I have fun with the sales people. They keep on asking me how much I want to pay each month and I keep on asking them the net price of the car.

If I were a buyer, I would rather apply for the cash rebate on my own.

[briansd1]

flu, I’ll give you the benefit of the doubt.

But if what you say is true, then you could negotiate a cash deal for say $30,000.

Then when you turn in your clunker, you’ll get an additional $4,500 federal rebate + $4,500 manufacturer incentive. Your net cost would be $21,000.

BTW, is tax before rebate or after rebate?

I have a feeling the full $4,500 is not going to the consumer. The dealers get $4,500 from the Feds but if they don’t pass is all along, then they are double dipping. Not only are the taxpayers subsidizing their sales but we are also subsidizing their profit margins.

Remember, most car buyers don’t buy with cash. They buy on the monthly payments they can afford and that’s what the sales tactics are based upon.

When shopping for cars, I have fun with the sales people. They keep on asking me how much I want to pay each month and I keep on asking them the net price of the car.

If I were a buyer, I would rather apply for the cash rebate on my own.

[briansd1]

flu, I’ll give you the benefit of the doubt.

But if what you say is true, then you could negotiate a cash deal for say $30,000.

Then when you turn in your clunker, you’ll get an additional $4,500 federal rebate + $4,500 manufacturer incentive. Your net cost would be $21,000.

BTW, is tax before rebate or after rebate?

I have a feeling the full $4,500 is not going to the consumer. The dealers get $4,500 from the Feds but if they don’t pass is all along, then they are double dipping. Not only are the taxpayers subsidizing their sales but we are also subsidizing their profit margins.

Remember, most car buyers don’t buy with cash. They buy on the monthly payments they can afford and that’s what the sales tactics are based upon.

When shopping for cars, I have fun with the sales people. They keep on asking me how much I want to pay each month and I keep on asking them the net price of the car.

If I were a buyer, I would rather apply for the cash rebate on my own.

[briansd1]

flu, I’ll give you the benefit of the doubt.

But if what you say is true, then you could negotiate a cash deal for say $30,000.

Then when you turn in your clunker, you’ll get an additional $4,500 federal rebate + $4,500 manufacturer incentive. Your net cost would be $21,000.

BTW, is tax before rebate or after rebate?

I have a feeling the full $4,500 is not going to the consumer. The dealers get $4,500 from the Feds but if they don’t pass is all along, then they are double dipping. Not only are the taxpayers subsidizing their sales but we are also subsidizing their profit margins.

Remember, most car buyers don’t buy with cash. They buy on the monthly payments they can afford and that’s what the sales tactics are based upon.

When shopping for cars, I have fun with the sales people. They keep on asking me how much I want to pay each month and I keep on asking them the net price of the car.

If I were a buyer, I would rather apply for the cash rebate on my own.

[briansd1]

flu, I’ll give you the benefit of the doubt.

But if what you say is true, then you could negotiate a cash deal for say $30,000.

Then when you turn in your clunker, you’ll get an additional $4,500 federal rebate + $4,500 manufacturer incentive. Your net cost would be $21,000.

BTW, is tax before rebate or after rebate?

I have a feeling the full $4,500 is not going to the consumer. The dealers get $4,500 from the Feds but if they don’t pass is all along, then they are double dipping. Not only are the taxpayers subsidizing their sales but we are also subsidizing their profit margins.

Remember, most car buyers don’t buy with cash. They buy on the monthly payments they can afford and that’s what the sales tactics are based upon.

When shopping for cars, I have fun with the sales people. They keep on asking me how much I want to pay each month and I keep on asking them the net price of the car.

If I were a buyer, I would rather apply for the cash rebate on my own.

[Coronita]

[quote=briansd1]flu, I’ll give you the benefit of the doubt.

But if what you say is true, then you could negotiate a cash deal for say $30,000.

Then when you turn in your clunker, you’ll get an additional $4,500 federal rebate + $4,500 manufacturer incentive. Your net cost would be $21,000.

BTW, is tax before rebate or after rebate?

I have a feeling the full $4,500 is not going to the consumer. The dealers get $4,500 from the Feds but if they don’t pass is all along, then they are double dipping. Not only are the taxpayers subsidizing their sales but we are also subsidizing their profit margins.

Remember, most car buyers don’t buy with cash. They buy on the monthly payments they can afford and that’s what the sales tactics are based upon.

When shopping for cars, I have fun with the sales people. They keep on asking me how much I want to pay each month and I keep on asking them the net price of the car.

If I were a buyer, I would rather apply for the cash rebate on my own.[/quote]

No no.. $4500 discount from manufacturer.
I believe the 335d starts at $43ish MSRP, so subtract that $4500. You most likely will be able to wiggle more out of it because you really don’t buy a car at MSRP unless it’s in high demand (the 335d isn’t)…I’d say for this car, roughly invoice +$1k, since it’s not popular plus BMW has a holdback allowance..Then additionally, if you qualify for the cash for clunker, that’s another $4500. So you’re looking around $33k or slightly lower for a 335d (excluding tax,license,etc). Then there’s approximately $900 credit for the special fuel credit i think.

Not bad for a 335, though it’s kinda ugly (wish it were a 2 door coupe option). And you’ll probably have reliability issues up the yazoo. Unfortunately, you have to pay 1% more sales tax in CA which sucks.

The issue about folks not buying a car with all cash..Well, not exactly. You don’t have to get financing from the dealer. You could finance it out of the dealer and from the dealer’s perspective it’s an all cash deal.

I don’t waste my time with salesman, except to test drive the car..I go through the internet sales division or fleet sales and do it on email, saves me time and gets me the best price more so than I can do in the showroom. Saves the dealer time/money, because they can close a deal sooner than spending hours haggling.

[Coronita]

[quote=briansd1]flu, I’ll give you the benefit of the doubt.

But if what you say is true, then you could negotiate a cash deal for say $30,000.

Then when you turn in your clunker, you’ll get an additional $4,500 federal rebate + $4,500 manufacturer incentive. Your net cost would be $21,000.

BTW, is tax before rebate or after rebate?

I have a feeling the full $4,500 is not going to the consumer. The dealers get $4,500 from the Feds but if they don’t pass is all along, then they are double dipping. Not only are the taxpayers subsidizing their sales but we are also subsidizing their profit margins.

Remember, most car buyers don’t buy with cash. They buy on the monthly payments they can afford and that’s what the sales tactics are based upon.

When shopping for cars, I have fun with the sales people. They keep on asking me how much I want to pay each month and I keep on asking them the net price of the car.

If I were a buyer, I would rather apply for the cash rebate on my own.[/quote]

No no.. $4500 discount from manufacturer.
I believe the 335d starts at $43ish MSRP, so subtract that $4500. You most likely will be able to wiggle more out of it because you really don’t buy a car at MSRP unless it’s in high demand (the 335d isn’t)…I’d say for this car, roughly invoice +$1k, since it’s not popular plus BMW has a holdback allowance..Then additionally, if you qualify for the cash for clunker, that’s another $4500. So you’re looking around $33k or slightly lower for a 335d (excluding tax,license,etc). Then there’s approximately $900 credit for the special fuel credit i think.

Not bad for a 335, though it’s kinda ugly (wish it were a 2 door coupe option). And you’ll probably have reliability issues up the yazoo. Unfortunately, you have to pay 1% more sales tax in CA which sucks.

The issue about folks not buying a car with all cash..Well, not exactly. You don’t have to get financing from the dealer. You could finance it out of the dealer and from the dealer’s perspective it’s an all cash deal.

I don’t waste my time with salesman, except to test drive the car..I go through the internet sales division or fleet sales and do it on email, saves me time and gets me the best price more so than I can do in the showroom. Saves the dealer time/money, because they can close a deal sooner than spending hours haggling.

[Coronita]

[quote=briansd1]flu, I’ll give you the benefit of the doubt.

But if what you say is true, then you could negotiate a cash deal for say $30,000.

Then when you turn in your clunker, you’ll get an additional $4,500 federal rebate + $4,500 manufacturer incentive. Your net cost would be $21,000.

BTW, is tax before rebate or after rebate?

I have a feeling the full $4,500 is not going to the consumer. The dealers get $4,500 from the Feds but if they don’t pass is all along, then they are double dipping. Not only are the taxpayers subsidizing their sales but we are also subsidizing their profit margins.

Remember, most car buyers don’t buy with cash. They buy on the monthly payments they can afford and that’s what the sales tactics are based upon.

When shopping for cars, I have fun with the sales people. They keep on asking me how much I want to pay each month and I keep on asking them the net price of the car.

If I were a buyer, I would rather apply for the cash rebate on my own.[/quote]

No no.. $4500 discount from manufacturer.
I believe the 335d starts at $43ish MSRP, so subtract that $4500. You most likely will be able to wiggle more out of it because you really don’t buy a car at MSRP unless it’s in high demand (the 335d isn’t)…I’d say for this car, roughly invoice +$1k, since it’s not popular plus BMW has a holdback allowance..Then additionally, if you qualify for the cash for clunker, that’s another $4500. So you’re looking around $33k or slightly lower for a 335d (excluding tax,license,etc). Then there’s approximately $900 credit for the special fuel credit i think.

Not bad for a 335, though it’s kinda ugly (wish it were a 2 door coupe option). And you’ll probably have reliability issues up the yazoo. Unfortunately, you have to pay 1% more sales tax in CA which sucks.

The issue about folks not buying a car with all cash..Well, not exactly. You don’t have to get financing from the dealer. You could finance it out of the dealer and from the dealer’s perspective it’s an all cash deal.

I don’t waste my time with salesman, except to test drive the car..I go through the internet sales division or fleet sales and do it on email, saves me time and gets me the best price more so than I can do in the showroom. Saves the dealer time/money, because they can close a deal sooner than spending hours haggling.

[Coronita]

[quote=briansd1]flu, I’ll give you the benefit of the doubt.

But if what you say is true, then you could negotiate a cash deal for say $30,000.

Then when you turn in your clunker, you’ll get an additional $4,500 federal rebate + $4,500 manufacturer incentive. Your net cost would be $21,000.

BTW, is tax before rebate or after rebate?

I have a feeling the full $4,500 is not going to the consumer. The dealers get $4,500 from the Feds but if they don’t pass is all along, then they are double dipping. Not only are the taxpayers subsidizing their sales but we are also subsidizing their profit margins.

Remember, most car buyers don’t buy with cash. They buy on the monthly payments they can afford and that’s what the sales tactics are based upon.

When shopping for cars, I have fun with the sales people. They keep on asking me how much I want to pay each month and I keep on asking them the net price of the car.

If I were a buyer, I would rather apply for the cash rebate on my own.[/quote]

No no.. $4500 discount from manufacturer.
I believe the 335d starts at $43ish MSRP, so subtract that $4500. You most likely will be able to wiggle more out of it because you really don’t buy a car at MSRP unless it’s in high demand (the 335d isn’t)…I’d say for this car, roughly invoice +$1k, since it’s not popular plus BMW has a holdback allowance..Then additionally, if you qualify for the cash for clunker, that’s another $4500. So you’re looking around $33k or slightly lower for a 335d (excluding tax,license,etc). Then there’s approximately $900 credit for the special fuel credit i think.

Not bad for a 335, though it’s kinda ugly (wish it were a 2 door coupe option). And you’ll probably have reliability issues up the yazoo. Unfortunately, you have to pay 1% more sales tax in CA which sucks.

The issue about folks not buying a car with all cash..Well, not exactly. You don’t have to get financing from the dealer. You could finance it out of the dealer and from the dealer’s perspective it’s an all cash deal.

I don’t waste my time with salesman, except to test drive the car..I go through the internet sales division or fleet sales and do it on email, saves me time and gets me the best price more so than I can do in the showroom. Saves the dealer time/money, because they can close a deal sooner than spending hours haggling.

[Coronita]

[quote=briansd1]flu, I’ll give you the benefit of the doubt.

But if what you say is true, then you could negotiate a cash deal for say $30,000.

Then when you turn in your clunker, you’ll get an additional $4,500 federal rebate + $4,500 manufacturer incentive. Your net cost would be $21,000.

BTW, is tax before rebate or after rebate?

I have a feeling the full $4,500 is not going to the consumer. The dealers get $4,500 from the Feds but if they don’t pass is all along, then they are double dipping. Not only are the taxpayers subsidizing their sales but we are also subsidizing their profit margins.

Remember, most car buyers don’t buy with cash. They buy on the monthly payments they can afford and that’s what the sales tactics are based upon.

When shopping for cars, I have fun with the sales people. They keep on asking me how much I want to pay each month and I keep on asking them the net price of the car.

If I were a buyer, I would rather apply for the cash rebate on my own.[/quote]

No no.. $4500 discount from manufacturer.
I believe the 335d starts at $43ish MSRP, so subtract that $4500. You most likely will be able to wiggle more out of it because you really don’t buy a car at MSRP unless it’s in high demand (the 335d isn’t)…I’d say for this car, roughly invoice +$1k, since it’s not popular plus BMW has a holdback allowance..Then additionally, if you qualify for the cash for clunker, that’s another $4500. So you’re looking around $33k or slightly lower for a 335d (excluding tax,license,etc). Then there’s approximately $900 credit for the special fuel credit i think.

Not bad for a 335, though it’s kinda ugly (wish it were a 2 door coupe option). And you’ll probably have reliability issues up the yazoo. Unfortunately, you have to pay 1% more sales tax in CA which sucks.

The issue about folks not buying a car with all cash..Well, not exactly. You don’t have to get financing from the dealer. You could finance it out of the dealer and from the dealer’s perspective it’s an all cash deal.

I don’t waste my time with salesman, except to test drive the car..I go through the internet sales division or fleet sales and do it on email, saves me time and gets me the best price more so than I can do in the showroom. Saves the dealer time/money, because they can close a deal sooner than spending hours haggling.

[mixxalot]

Good deal for new car purchase

Heck, my 1996 BMW 328is only has a value worth 3k so when I buy a new car, might be the way to go to get more for my car when I decide to buy me another vehicle!

[mixxalot]

Good deal for new car purchase

Heck, my 1996 BMW 328is only has a value worth 3k so when I buy a new car, might be the way to go to get more for my car when I decide to buy me another vehicle!

[mixxalot]

Good deal for new car purchase

Heck, my 1996 BMW 328is only has a value worth 3k so when I buy a new car, might be the way to go to get more for my car when I decide to buy me another vehicle!

[mixxalot]

Good deal for new car purchase

Heck, my 1996 BMW 328is only has a value worth 3k so when I buy a new car, might be the way to go to get more for my car when I decide to buy me another vehicle!

[Author]

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