Buying a Car Online

[Anonymous]

I just bought a 2009 Pathfinder from carsdirect.com

Having bought two previous Nissans from the fleet manager of a Nissan dealership, I feel confident I got within $500 of what I could get if I found the best deal that some schmoe off the street could get from anybody. I know one guy who gets truly insider deals, having a connection. I’m not going to get that deal, but I think I got a good one.

I test drove a pathfinder once at the local dealer, expressed my interested in a 4WD version, but never got a follow up from the guy. So, I don’t feel badly about not using him, as he didn’t seem to want the deal badly enough to find a 4WD and call me.

Carsdirect.com’s pricing is competitive and the process convenient. The car was delivered to my house. I didn’t have to deal with a dealer, which is like not having to go into a whorehouse to get “serviced.” No complaints.

Now, as far as the used vs. new debate. I buy my cars new and drive them into the ground. In the 4WD SUV market, there aren’t many good, low mileage, used deals out there and the ones I did find were previously leased or (even worse) rental vehicles. Sometimes the carfax showed oil changes every 5K (I prefer 3K unless synthetic, which is what I use every 5K). Sometimes it showed other things that made me wonder about the history of the car.

I did the math on it and I figured I was paying somewhere around an extra $2500 for the privilege of owning the car for its first 30,000 miles. That was a smaller number than I expected, due in part to a nice Nissan rebate for the Pathfinder.

Is it worth it to spend an extra $2,500 to own the car for its whole life vs. buying used? Oh yea, for me it is. First of all, it ensures that I know its history, replete with synthetic oil for every change and timely recommended maintenance. Secondly, those first 30K miles are the best of a car in terms of ride and ease of maintenance. Third, with a new car, I was able more easily to find the color and features I wanted. Fourth, every year safety and convenience features get better, so there’s a pretty big difference between my 2009 Pathfinder with lots of airbags, Intellikey, a backup camera, etc. and a 2006 Pathfinder used, without those features.

Mostly, it’s the peace of mind of not having to wonder about the car’s history. That’s especially true with a 4WD vehicle. I plan on using mine to carry up to 4 hang gliders (long & bulky) down pretty dodgy roads. The car’s history is very important to me. If it’s worked hard, I want to be the one to do it.

[OwnerOfCalifornia]

bumpity bump. Everyone in the market for a new car should check out flu’s online buying guide on page 1 of this thread.

Has anyone used or otherwise know of Truecar? Thoughts, comments, opinions, how well did it work for you, etc.?

[OwnerOfCalifornia]

bumpity bump. Everyone in the market for a new car should check out flu’s online buying guide on page 1 of this thread.

Has anyone used or otherwise know of Truecar? Thoughts, comments, opinions, how well did it work for you, etc.?

[OwnerOfCalifornia]

bumpity bump. Everyone in the market for a new car should check out flu’s online buying guide on page 1 of this thread.

Has anyone used or otherwise know of Truecar? Thoughts, comments, opinions, how well did it work for you, etc.?

[OwnerOfCalifornia]

bumpity bump. Everyone in the market for a new car should check out flu’s online buying guide on page 1 of this thread.

Has anyone used or otherwise know of Truecar? Thoughts, comments, opinions, how well did it work for you, etc.?

[OwnerOfCalifornia]

bumpity bump. Everyone in the market for a new car should check out flu’s online buying guide on page 1 of this thread.

Has anyone used or otherwise know of Truecar? Thoughts, comments, opinions, how well did it work for you, etc.?

[zzz]

flinger, i think i looked at truecar when i got my last car, but i also read all the forums on edmunds, kbb, etc to figure out what other people were paying for cars. i didn’t read flu’s car buying guide at the time, but i did basically what he outlined based on previous research i’d done.

my advice is do as much internet research as possible on actual buyers and what they paid, as well as current manufacture rebates, incentives, etc. also, if you plan to ever lease a car, you need to read what the money factor rates are and whether you can get an employee rate, and the residuals. do not lease or buy a car based on the monthly amount, you need to ask for MSRP, the price they are offering you, any other fees in the quote and a detailed breakdown of the cars costs by features ( IE how much are they charging you for the color you chose, trim, packages, etc). in a lease, also money factor, residual, lease term. the more knowledgeable you are, the less likely the salesperson is going to dick around with you and you’ll quickly figure out which sales guys will play ball versus ones who just want to screw with you like you don’t know what’s going on.

if you ever plan to finance a car through a dealership, you need to ask for the rate, and then check it against what’s nationally available. also you need to check the bank fee. dealers love to mark up the bank fee or the best available finance rate that you qualify for. if your credit is stellar, no reason you should not get what is nationally advertised, IE 0% or 1%, etc.

there were a few dealers who’s internet sales department in LA refused to deal with me unless i came in- fletcher jones in LA so i just dropped them. some LA dealers will even drive a car down to you if you don’t feel like going up there. IE House of Imports. also if you have time, you should start a few months before the 2012 cars come out, and then keep checking deals every month. you’ll find the deals might get better and sometimes SD dealers who couldn’t beat the LA prices, start looking more competitive as they get more interested in getting those 2011 cars out, you might find the best deals AFTER 2012 cars are out, but keep in mind inventory gets lower, so you may not get the actual package you want. also, some dealers are willing to do dealer trades to get you the car you want via their dealer. so just because the dealer you want to buy from doesn’t have your car, doesn’t mean they can’t get it. also it might be coming via a new shipment of cars and a good sales guy will check it.

here’s a good guide to read, http://www.carbuyingtips.com/car3.htm

also the fightingchance sight the site references is one a guy i know used to buy a toyota and he found he got his car a few thousand under invoice.

[zzz]

flinger, i think i looked at truecar when i got my last car, but i also read all the forums on edmunds, kbb, etc to figure out what other people were paying for cars. i didn’t read flu’s car buying guide at the time, but i did basically what he outlined based on previous research i’d done.

my advice is do as much internet research as possible on actual buyers and what they paid, as well as current manufacture rebates, incentives, etc. also, if you plan to ever lease a car, you need to read what the money factor rates are and whether you can get an employee rate, and the residuals. do not lease or buy a car based on the monthly amount, you need to ask for MSRP, the price they are offering you, any other fees in the quote and a detailed breakdown of the cars costs by features ( IE how much are they charging you for the color you chose, trim, packages, etc). in a lease, also money factor, residual, lease term. the more knowledgeable you are, the less likely the salesperson is going to dick around with you and you’ll quickly figure out which sales guys will play ball versus ones who just want to screw with you like you don’t know what’s going on.

if you ever plan to finance a car through a dealership, you need to ask for the rate, and then check it against what’s nationally available. also you need to check the bank fee. dealers love to mark up the bank fee or the best available finance rate that you qualify for. if your credit is stellar, no reason you should not get what is nationally advertised, IE 0% or 1%, etc.

there were a few dealers who’s internet sales department in LA refused to deal with me unless i came in- fletcher jones in LA so i just dropped them. some LA dealers will even drive a car down to you if you don’t feel like going up there. IE House of Imports. also if you have time, you should start a few months before the 2012 cars come out, and then keep checking deals every month. you’ll find the deals might get better and sometimes SD dealers who couldn’t beat the LA prices, start looking more competitive as they get more interested in getting those 2011 cars out, you might find the best deals AFTER 2012 cars are out, but keep in mind inventory gets lower, so you may not get the actual package you want. also, some dealers are willing to do dealer trades to get you the car you want via their dealer. so just because the dealer you want to buy from doesn’t have your car, doesn’t mean they can’t get it. also it might be coming via a new shipment of cars and a good sales guy will check it.

here’s a good guide to read, http://www.carbuyingtips.com/car3.htm

also the fightingchance sight the site references is one a guy i know used to buy a toyota and he found he got his car a few thousand under invoice.

[zzz]

flinger, i think i looked at truecar when i got my last car, but i also read all the forums on edmunds, kbb, etc to figure out what other people were paying for cars. i didn’t read flu’s car buying guide at the time, but i did basically what he outlined based on previous research i’d done.

my advice is do as much internet research as possible on actual buyers and what they paid, as well as current manufacture rebates, incentives, etc. also, if you plan to ever lease a car, you need to read what the money factor rates are and whether you can get an employee rate, and the residuals. do not lease or buy a car based on the monthly amount, you need to ask for MSRP, the price they are offering you, any other fees in the quote and a detailed breakdown of the cars costs by features ( IE how much are they charging you for the color you chose, trim, packages, etc). in a lease, also money factor, residual, lease term. the more knowledgeable you are, the less likely the salesperson is going to dick around with you and you’ll quickly figure out which sales guys will play ball versus ones who just want to screw with you like you don’t know what’s going on.

if you ever plan to finance a car through a dealership, you need to ask for the rate, and then check it against what’s nationally available. also you need to check the bank fee. dealers love to mark up the bank fee or the best available finance rate that you qualify for. if your credit is stellar, no reason you should not get what is nationally advertised, IE 0% or 1%, etc.

there were a few dealers who’s internet sales department in LA refused to deal with me unless i came in- fletcher jones in LA so i just dropped them. some LA dealers will even drive a car down to you if you don’t feel like going up there. IE House of Imports. also if you have time, you should start a few months before the 2012 cars come out, and then keep checking deals every month. you’ll find the deals might get better and sometimes SD dealers who couldn’t beat the LA prices, start looking more competitive as they get more interested in getting those 2011 cars out, you might find the best deals AFTER 2012 cars are out, but keep in mind inventory gets lower, so you may not get the actual package you want. also, some dealers are willing to do dealer trades to get you the car you want via their dealer. so just because the dealer you want to buy from doesn’t have your car, doesn’t mean they can’t get it. also it might be coming via a new shipment of cars and a good sales guy will check it.

here’s a good guide to read, http://www.carbuyingtips.com/car3.htm

also the fightingchance sight the site references is one a guy i know used to buy a toyota and he found he got his car a few thousand under invoice.

[zzz]

flinger, i think i looked at truecar when i got my last car, but i also read all the forums on edmunds, kbb, etc to figure out what other people were paying for cars. i didn’t read flu’s car buying guide at the time, but i did basically what he outlined based on previous research i’d done.

my advice is do as much internet research as possible on actual buyers and what they paid, as well as current manufacture rebates, incentives, etc. also, if you plan to ever lease a car, you need to read what the money factor rates are and whether you can get an employee rate, and the residuals. do not lease or buy a car based on the monthly amount, you need to ask for MSRP, the price they are offering you, any other fees in the quote and a detailed breakdown of the cars costs by features ( IE how much are they charging you for the color you chose, trim, packages, etc). in a lease, also money factor, residual, lease term. the more knowledgeable you are, the less likely the salesperson is going to dick around with you and you’ll quickly figure out which sales guys will play ball versus ones who just want to screw with you like you don’t know what’s going on.

if you ever plan to finance a car through a dealership, you need to ask for the rate, and then check it against what’s nationally available. also you need to check the bank fee. dealers love to mark up the bank fee or the best available finance rate that you qualify for. if your credit is stellar, no reason you should not get what is nationally advertised, IE 0% or 1%, etc.

there were a few dealers who’s internet sales department in LA refused to deal with me unless i came in- fletcher jones in LA so i just dropped them. some LA dealers will even drive a car down to you if you don’t feel like going up there. IE House of Imports. also if you have time, you should start a few months before the 2012 cars come out, and then keep checking deals every month. you’ll find the deals might get better and sometimes SD dealers who couldn’t beat the LA prices, start looking more competitive as they get more interested in getting those 2011 cars out, you might find the best deals AFTER 2012 cars are out, but keep in mind inventory gets lower, so you may not get the actual package you want. also, some dealers are willing to do dealer trades to get you the car you want via their dealer. so just because the dealer you want to buy from doesn’t have your car, doesn’t mean they can’t get it. also it might be coming via a new shipment of cars and a good sales guy will check it.

here’s a good guide to read, http://www.carbuyingtips.com/car3.htm

also the fightingchance sight the site references is one a guy i know used to buy a toyota and he found he got his car a few thousand under invoice.

[zzz]

flinger, i think i looked at truecar when i got my last car, but i also read all the forums on edmunds, kbb, etc to figure out what other people were paying for cars. i didn’t read flu’s car buying guide at the time, but i did basically what he outlined based on previous research i’d done.

my advice is do as much internet research as possible on actual buyers and what they paid, as well as current manufacture rebates, incentives, etc. also, if you plan to ever lease a car, you need to read what the money factor rates are and whether you can get an employee rate, and the residuals. do not lease or buy a car based on the monthly amount, you need to ask for MSRP, the price they are offering you, any other fees in the quote and a detailed breakdown of the cars costs by features ( IE how much are they charging you for the color you chose, trim, packages, etc). in a lease, also money factor, residual, lease term. the more knowledgeable you are, the less likely the salesperson is going to dick around with you and you’ll quickly figure out which sales guys will play ball versus ones who just want to screw with you like you don’t know what’s going on.

if you ever plan to finance a car through a dealership, you need to ask for the rate, and then check it against what’s nationally available. also you need to check the bank fee. dealers love to mark up the bank fee or the best available finance rate that you qualify for. if your credit is stellar, no reason you should not get what is nationally advertised, IE 0% or 1%, etc.

there were a few dealers who’s internet sales department in LA refused to deal with me unless i came in- fletcher jones in LA so i just dropped them. some LA dealers will even drive a car down to you if you don’t feel like going up there. IE House of Imports. also if you have time, you should start a few months before the 2012 cars come out, and then keep checking deals every month. you’ll find the deals might get better and sometimes SD dealers who couldn’t beat the LA prices, start looking more competitive as they get more interested in getting those 2011 cars out, you might find the best deals AFTER 2012 cars are out, but keep in mind inventory gets lower, so you may not get the actual package you want. also, some dealers are willing to do dealer trades to get you the car you want via their dealer. so just because the dealer you want to buy from doesn’t have your car, doesn’t mean they can’t get it. also it might be coming via a new shipment of cars and a good sales guy will check it.

here’s a good guide to read, http://www.carbuyingtips.com/car3.htm

also the fightingchance sight the site references is one a guy i know used to buy a toyota and he found he got his car a few thousand under invoice.

[OwnerOfCalifornia]

Thanks zzz. I’ve researched the hell out of the car I am buying. I did not know about that FightingChance website; he has very interesting articles about Edmunds and TrueCar.

I am paying cash with no trade-in so this should be a pretty clean deal. Though I have wondered how that situation affects one’s negotiating position. If I am a dealer, why sell to me (for the lowest possible price) when they can milk more out of the deal, at the same price point, from 1) a trade-in and 2) captive financing.

[OwnerOfCalifornia]

Thanks zzz. I’ve researched the hell out of the car I am buying. I did not know about that FightingChance website; he has very interesting articles about Edmunds and TrueCar.

I am paying cash with no trade-in so this should be a pretty clean deal. Though I have wondered how that situation affects one’s negotiating position. If I am a dealer, why sell to me (for the lowest possible price) when they can milk more out of the deal, at the same price point, from 1) a trade-in and 2) captive financing.

[OwnerOfCalifornia]

Thanks zzz. I’ve researched the hell out of the car I am buying. I did not know about that FightingChance website; he has very interesting articles about Edmunds and TrueCar.

I am paying cash with no trade-in so this should be a pretty clean deal. Though I have wondered how that situation affects one’s negotiating position. If I am a dealer, why sell to me (for the lowest possible price) when they can milk more out of the deal, at the same price point, from 1) a trade-in and 2) captive financing.

[OwnerOfCalifornia]

Thanks zzz. I’ve researched the hell out of the car I am buying. I did not know about that FightingChance website; he has very interesting articles about Edmunds and TrueCar.

I am paying cash with no trade-in so this should be a pretty clean deal. Though I have wondered how that situation affects one’s negotiating position. If I am a dealer, why sell to me (for the lowest possible price) when they can milk more out of the deal, at the same price point, from 1) a trade-in and 2) captive financing.

[Author]

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