[TeCKis300]

Knew I could count on you guys. Great nuggets in there! Will definitely pickup that book.

I’m a professional cat herder at work, so managing this doesn’t worry me.

So what’s the general strategy for picking up rents? Do you all prefer paper checks? It’s only like 20 minutes away from home so some face time and regular visual of the place is probably not a bad thing.

I heard some mention of auto-deposits. For those that use it, what are you using? Direct wire, paypal, etc?… you know, in case I get lazy.

[TeCKis300]

The concern is that it’s not quite equivalent to a new renter in terms of certain tenant rights. I can’t qualify them as I would with a credit check and such, or can I, and during escrow? The psychology of the renter is different too in terms of entitlement. Just want to make sure I have the right terms and agreements in place which is part of the advice I’m looking for.

The owner/seller has listed the property, but has not been accommodating for viewing. Seems like they are in a distressed sell situation for cash.

[TeCKis300]

It’s likewise the same for me with Zillow. Redfin seems to be consistently more up to date as well as having the latest listings. Looks like it syncs more regularly with the MLS?

[TeCKis300]

So your post has me chasing my itch again.

I’ve been without a track toy since I’ve upgraded my fun car/daily driver to too much car. I won’t say specifically what it is as people will judge, but what the heck, it will give you some context. Besides my coworkers have all judged me already as having my priorities all wrong =P. It’s a P car, Turbo.

It’s great fun on the street. It’s crack to me really. But it’s again, too much car to put on the track in terms of sentimental value, consumables, maintenance, and risk to my health (it’s got even bigger turbo’s than stock).

I’ve been pondering a Boxter for awhile. This thread I think is a great read (ignore the forum) – http://www.trackhq.com/forums/f303/350z-miata-track-4866/. Flu, you already have the perfect car.

Now I’m pondering an S2K, if only for the variety against a P-car and I’ve always liked itss style.

[TeCKis300]

Having enjoyed my fair share of autox at Qualcomm and track days in the SoCal region… I don’t think either new car would make a good track toy.

While any sporty car can make for a fun autox experience because of the lower speeds, inherent safety of the format, and less consumables.

The reality when talking about road course events is that a street cars make for poor track cars because of fundamental diametric requirements.

But before I go into that, and because I’m a caring parent myself… please don’t send your learning spawn into the hardened roadways, full of distracted and raging drivers, in a tin can car. Mass is by far the biggest discriminator in the outcome of car on car accidents.

So back to that grown up track toy. The mentality should be if you’re willing to put a car on the track, you’re willing to wad it up and throw it away. Your regular insurance won’t cover you, but there are optional track day specific insurance you can buy. And because there’s always a chance you could wad it up (either of your own doing or someone else), or some unforeseen situation (i.e. fluid spillage), safety should be a paramount concern. Which means a cage. Which is good for that 5-point harness you’ll want for safety, but also proper restraints. Cause a track day will put real g-forces on your body. And if you’re working on your technique, you don’t want to be trying to brace yourself with your elbow and knee, while working on your steering and pedal finesse.

I’m happy you recognize that hp is not really that important on the track and is only something that increases risk and the cost of consumables. In a light car (cause add lightness), 200hp is great, 300hp is super fun, 300hp++ and you better have some real safety gear and technique cause stuff happens fast.

You already in many ways own the perfect fun track car. Add a full blown cage, with proper seat, harness, and hans device so you can feel safe on the track. With those items, it’ll be way safer than just about any new track toy anyways. And you’ll be having more fun.

The only other car I’m considering for a dedicated track toy is an older boxter or cayman. If only because of the camaraderie and invites to those events. My street car, while I intended to originally do regular track days with, is waaaay too much hp for the track and a real liability because of that. Plus I love it too much as a street car to add a cage.

Buy the new car you want for the street. You’ll have saved money using the old Miata, and be more safe, and have more fun because of it.

[TeCKis300]

[quote=flu][quote=spdrun]There are two crowds for miatas. The racing enthusiasts. And the ones like like it for the looks and will just daily drive them. They won’t have a problem selling the automatics. It’d just the initial rush from enthusiasts that want to be the first to get them on the track.[/quote]

Race junkies don’t truly seek out new Miata’s to drive on the track. Their draw is when they’re depreciated, with minimal costs in consumables to keep them on the track.

So leave it to the enthusiasts to buy them new to commute with, so I can pickup one in many years after that for a pittance to really beat on them.

[TeCKis300]

Sure, they don’t have to as they have you as a captive buyer.

Doesn’t mean you can’t ask. Worse they can say is no.

I’ve successfully done it on a number of items. On flooring and big ticket items, when upgrading over the base tier. It’s a win win as they make more margins on the upgrades over just slapping in the base stuff that the builder negotiated for.

Don’t ask the builder. Ask the up-grader in the show room at the time of pricing out and signing off on the upgrade.

[TeCKis300]

Don’t forget that upgrades through the builder can are are negotiable to a degree.

[TeCKis300]

You all are dating yourselves.

I’d be happy to have that home (with an allowance for all the maintenance)

[TeCKis300]

My 5 year old has been playing now for 1 year and is really enjoying it.

As an adult that was forced to play (another instrument) throughout his childhood… Who is grateful today for having learned music, though it was a struggle for both sides growing up.

I think it’s super important to encourage your child to learn not through regimented lessons. Find what motivates them, whether the challenge, music they like, or leading by example.

I’m not suggesting this, but we purchased a new 6’3″ Baldwin Grand piano. I love the thing to death.

That was important as playing on a fine instrument is my motivation. So I’m learning the piano along with my child. My wife played as a child as is getting back into the grove.

My child is really enjoying the experience as she is motivated by our mutual love for music and the piano.

[TeCKis300]

If you want the GT4, I’d say get it now if at all possible, even if the Cayman GTS is a nice option.

Only because the GT4 has the potential to become collectible in status. It may never even get the price drop your hoping for to step in because of demand. Whereas the GTS won’t have that same cachet and the price differential in the used market may be much much greater than at new.

There’s enough demand that a production run of 500 won’t satisfy. I’m seeing quite a few people in the Porsche community that already have some nice Porsche 911 examples, jumping to get one. Not to replace what they have, but the GT4 is differentiated enough, notable enough, (and cheap enough) for it to almost be an impulse buy. A good buy/investment IMO at that.

[TeCKis300]

Honestly, I don’t think the answer can be distilled down to a simple ‘better’.

Each one has their strengths. Just like each of the 12++ variations of even the 911 (Carrera, Targa, Cabrio, S, 4, 4S, GTS, Turbo, Turbo S, GT2, GT3, RS) has its focus areas making it better suited for their specific target audiences.

The 911 is a better car in many way. Clearly better utility as a daily driver as it has +2 back seats. I use those everyday to drop off my kids at school. It’s a better more substantial GT style car as it has more standard features and a deeper option list.

I’ll give you that from a handling stand point, the Cayman/GT4 series has better idealistic handling/balance qualities. The 911 is a not a traditional handler in the classical sense with its extreme weight bias. Drivers even have to apply a distinctly different driving style for the 911.

The 911 rear engine style is not all negative and can be exploited, especially under race conditions. Because of the weight bias, it has better traction under acceleration with more weight over the rear powered axle, and better traction under braking with weight to all 4 wheels. In racing, passing is done more often under braking and acceleration than anywhere else, as the ideal handling line in curves is limited.

And of course the better packaging advantages of enabling rear seats in a rear engine car.

Still love the GT4 and Caymans though!

[TeCKis300]

Disappointing to hear how many of you don’t take pride in having a clean car. But perhaps are more particular elsewhere? In my eyes, having a clean car is just as important as keeping well groomed, hygienic, and dressing presentably – to a degree.

It’s all about balance in my eyes. I’m not saying I’m a neat freak, or wash my car every other weekend. But I do try to keep some level of decency across all my belongings. For as much my personal satisfaction, as well as maintaining a professional and presentable image.

[TeCKis300]

The OP didn’t ask for how to make it, but multiple people suggested trying to make your own. I did, cause I enjoy custom projects. But I will say it’s not trivial.

There a lot of custom fabrication, especially the bracketing and hinge work that require precision. Especially when you are talking about doors that can weigh in excess of a hundred pounds depending on span. And to get it all nicely aligned in the end.

Here’ mine. The structure itself is all steel underneath with a wood facade.

https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/t1.0-9/420256_3338700070506_1242497931_n.jpg

[TeCKis300]

I’ve had my system for 1.5 yrs now and it has been working very well for us.

From my research prior, this is not universally true. You have to be focus’d on the numbers to make this work, as it can turn into an expensive science experiment at best. Unless you’re a crunchy type that doesn’t put ROI above environmental issues.

Some considerations and lessons learned:
1) Understand the numbers game you’re playing. Especially if you have an electric car, and are on a time of use (TOU) rather than tiered rate plan. Offsetting gas expenses is considerably more worthwhile than even offsetting tier 3/4, where you may want to offset 100% of your use.
1a BONUS) You can compound the value of solar with an electric car with a TOU plan. Solar produces during the peak rate hours, whereas charging takes places during the lowest rate hours at night.
2) Don’t let the marketers confuse the priorities. Yes, it’s important to buy a quality system/components, but don’t forget ROI which is the whole reason for the investment.
3) Physical constraints of your installation may seriously compromise system efficiency (and potential ROI) – don’t force it to work for you if it won’t!
4) Microinverters!! Line inverters may be cheaper up front, but not when you consider they have to be typically replaced in ~10 yrs. Lots of companies don’t do microinverters and want to force old school line inverters on customers.
5) Don’t hire a 3rd party marketing only company. Cut out the middle man and go directly to the installers.
6) Many lease deals are shady. You may very likely wind up paying more for all the headaches all said and done than paying SDG&E directly.
7) FOCUS on price/watt produced to compare apples to apples and remember…ROI! So what if you have top of the line panels. It’s not an investment if there’s no ROI.

Good luck!

[Author]

Posts