[Raybyrnes]

djrobsd

“Whatever you do, resist the temptation to buy new. You’ll lose 10-20% the minute you drive it past the curb of the dealership…”

You’re wrong on this. People talk about cars depreciatiing when you drive off the lot and the4 reason that is typically the case is because you just paid tax of %7.75 and Vehicle Licensing fee.

If you are careful with your purchse decision there is very little depreciation. Additionally you eliminate the resik of picking up a lemon. AKA there were plenty of post Katrina Cars that showed up in secondary markets looking new.

You will also find that new cars get better costs in terms of financing.

If you got the cash and can afford it you almost always better off to buy new.

[Raybyrnes]

djrobsd

“Whatever you do, resist the temptation to buy new. You’ll lose 10-20% the minute you drive it past the curb of the dealership…”

You’re wrong on this. People talk about cars depreciatiing when you drive off the lot and the4 reason that is typically the case is because you just paid tax of %7.75 and Vehicle Licensing fee.

If you are careful with your purchse decision there is very little depreciation. Additionally you eliminate the resik of picking up a lemon. AKA there were plenty of post Katrina Cars that showed up in secondary markets looking new.

You will also find that new cars get better costs in terms of financing.

If you got the cash and can afford it you almost always better off to buy new.

[Raybyrnes]

djrobsd

“Whatever you do, resist the temptation to buy new. You’ll lose 10-20% the minute you drive it past the curb of the dealership…”

You’re wrong on this. People talk about cars depreciatiing when you drive off the lot and the4 reason that is typically the case is because you just paid tax of %7.75 and Vehicle Licensing fee.

If you are careful with your purchse decision there is very little depreciation. Additionally you eliminate the resik of picking up a lemon. AKA there were plenty of post Katrina Cars that showed up in secondary markets looking new.

You will also find that new cars get better costs in terms of financing.

If you got the cash and can afford it you almost always better off to buy new.

[Raybyrnes]

djrobsd

“Whatever you do, resist the temptation to buy new. You’ll lose 10-20% the minute you drive it past the curb of the dealership…”

You’re wrong on this. People talk about cars depreciatiing when you drive off the lot and the4 reason that is typically the case is because you just paid tax of %7.75 and Vehicle Licensing fee.

If you are careful with your purchse decision there is very little depreciation. Additionally you eliminate the resik of picking up a lemon. AKA there were plenty of post Katrina Cars that showed up in secondary markets looking new.

You will also find that new cars get better costs in terms of financing.

If you got the cash and can afford it you almost always better off to buy new.

[Raybyrnes]

djrobsd

“Whatever you do, resist the temptation to buy new. You’ll lose 10-20% the minute you drive it past the curb of the dealership…”

You’re wrong on this. People talk about cars depreciatiing when you drive off the lot and the4 reason that is typically the case is because you just paid tax of %7.75 and Vehicle Licensing fee.

If you are careful with your purchse decision there is very little depreciation. Additionally you eliminate the resik of picking up a lemon. AKA there were plenty of post Katrina Cars that showed up in secondary markets looking new.

You will also find that new cars get better costs in terms of financing.

If you got the cash and can afford it you almost always better off to buy new.

[Raybyrnes]

andymajumder

Your making the assumption that rent is the floor and that there is no chance that mortgages would fall below rents.

I would generally use this as a baseline but what if we did go into a full our recession and people did not have the ability to come up with a down payment. In this case rent could potentially be higher than a mortgage or at the very minimum be higher than a mortgage with 20% down.

[Raybyrnes]

andymajumder

Your making the assumption that rent is the floor and that there is no chance that mortgages would fall below rents.

I would generally use this as a baseline but what if we did go into a full our recession and people did not have the ability to come up with a down payment. In this case rent could potentially be higher than a mortgage or at the very minimum be higher than a mortgage with 20% down.

[Raybyrnes]

andymajumder

Your making the assumption that rent is the floor and that there is no chance that mortgages would fall below rents.

I would generally use this as a baseline but what if we did go into a full our recession and people did not have the ability to come up with a down payment. In this case rent could potentially be higher than a mortgage or at the very minimum be higher than a mortgage with 20% down.

[Raybyrnes]

andymajumder

Your making the assumption that rent is the floor and that there is no chance that mortgages would fall below rents.

I would generally use this as a baseline but what if we did go into a full our recession and people did not have the ability to come up with a down payment. In this case rent could potentially be higher than a mortgage or at the very minimum be higher than a mortgage with 20% down.

[Raybyrnes]

andymajumder

Your making the assumption that rent is the floor and that there is no chance that mortgages would fall below rents.

I would generally use this as a baseline but what if we did go into a full our recession and people did not have the ability to come up with a down payment. In this case rent could potentially be higher than a mortgage or at the very minimum be higher than a mortgage with 20% down.

[Raybyrnes]

patientlywaiting

“Now if you charge the car, the vendor will pay a discount fee, which he will likely include in the price of the car.”

That’s not true.

The deal has already been made. Whether you use a credit card or not has nothing to do with pricing.

There is not that much negotiating that you need to do if you understand the process.

Eliminate variables. By this I mean there is no trade in, don’t need to worry about financing becasue I have already been preapproved, and I am not looking for a warranty.

Take a look in a local paper or go online to see if there are any Cash rebates. These rebates are provided by the manufacturer not the dealer.

Understand the pricing structure of cars. There are the sticker price represented by MSRP.
Then there is the Invoice Cost. This is typically referred to as dealer cost but it is not a true dealer cost. Built into the invoice cost of a car is 3 additional costs. Those costs include Advertising, Financing and Holdback. Typically advertising and financing are about 1%. Holdback is generally going to be 3% of MSRP.

So putting this together would mean going to a dealer and knowing the invoice price of the car.

Then looking to apply a manufacturer rebate to that invoice cost.

Last by using your own financing in advance you can dimply apply the price of the car to the financing cost you recieved from an outside company and that should get you a pretty good deal.

Typically a good benchmark for a new car purchasemight be Invoice+200-manufacturers rebate.

If you are OK with loss leaders you can usually pick up a sunday paper and jsut walk in and take the deal advertised. Usually these deal Represent the Invoice Cost-advertising-holdback-finace-manufactures rebate. If you are OK with the color selection and option on the car it is a good way to buy.

[Raybyrnes]

patientlywaiting

“Now if you charge the car, the vendor will pay a discount fee, which he will likely include in the price of the car.”

That’s not true.

The deal has already been made. Whether you use a credit card or not has nothing to do with pricing.

There is not that much negotiating that you need to do if you understand the process.

Eliminate variables. By this I mean there is no trade in, don’t need to worry about financing becasue I have already been preapproved, and I am not looking for a warranty.

Take a look in a local paper or go online to see if there are any Cash rebates. These rebates are provided by the manufacturer not the dealer.

Understand the pricing structure of cars. There are the sticker price represented by MSRP.
Then there is the Invoice Cost. This is typically referred to as dealer cost but it is not a true dealer cost. Built into the invoice cost of a car is 3 additional costs. Those costs include Advertising, Financing and Holdback. Typically advertising and financing are about 1%. Holdback is generally going to be 3% of MSRP.

So putting this together would mean going to a dealer and knowing the invoice price of the car.

Then looking to apply a manufacturer rebate to that invoice cost.

Last by using your own financing in advance you can dimply apply the price of the car to the financing cost you recieved from an outside company and that should get you a pretty good deal.

Typically a good benchmark for a new car purchasemight be Invoice+200-manufacturers rebate.

If you are OK with loss leaders you can usually pick up a sunday paper and jsut walk in and take the deal advertised. Usually these deal Represent the Invoice Cost-advertising-holdback-finace-manufactures rebate. If you are OK with the color selection and option on the car it is a good way to buy.

[Raybyrnes]

patientlywaiting

“Now if you charge the car, the vendor will pay a discount fee, which he will likely include in the price of the car.”

That’s not true.

The deal has already been made. Whether you use a credit card or not has nothing to do with pricing.

There is not that much negotiating that you need to do if you understand the process.

Eliminate variables. By this I mean there is no trade in, don’t need to worry about financing becasue I have already been preapproved, and I am not looking for a warranty.

Take a look in a local paper or go online to see if there are any Cash rebates. These rebates are provided by the manufacturer not the dealer.

Understand the pricing structure of cars. There are the sticker price represented by MSRP.
Then there is the Invoice Cost. This is typically referred to as dealer cost but it is not a true dealer cost. Built into the invoice cost of a car is 3 additional costs. Those costs include Advertising, Financing and Holdback. Typically advertising and financing are about 1%. Holdback is generally going to be 3% of MSRP.

So putting this together would mean going to a dealer and knowing the invoice price of the car.

Then looking to apply a manufacturer rebate to that invoice cost.

Last by using your own financing in advance you can dimply apply the price of the car to the financing cost you recieved from an outside company and that should get you a pretty good deal.

Typically a good benchmark for a new car purchasemight be Invoice+200-manufacturers rebate.

If you are OK with loss leaders you can usually pick up a sunday paper and jsut walk in and take the deal advertised. Usually these deal Represent the Invoice Cost-advertising-holdback-finace-manufactures rebate. If you are OK with the color selection and option on the car it is a good way to buy.

[Raybyrnes]

patientlywaiting

“Now if you charge the car, the vendor will pay a discount fee, which he will likely include in the price of the car.”

That’s not true.

The deal has already been made. Whether you use a credit card or not has nothing to do with pricing.

There is not that much negotiating that you need to do if you understand the process.

Eliminate variables. By this I mean there is no trade in, don’t need to worry about financing becasue I have already been preapproved, and I am not looking for a warranty.

Take a look in a local paper or go online to see if there are any Cash rebates. These rebates are provided by the manufacturer not the dealer.

Understand the pricing structure of cars. There are the sticker price represented by MSRP.
Then there is the Invoice Cost. This is typically referred to as dealer cost but it is not a true dealer cost. Built into the invoice cost of a car is 3 additional costs. Those costs include Advertising, Financing and Holdback. Typically advertising and financing are about 1%. Holdback is generally going to be 3% of MSRP.

So putting this together would mean going to a dealer and knowing the invoice price of the car.

Then looking to apply a manufacturer rebate to that invoice cost.

Last by using your own financing in advance you can dimply apply the price of the car to the financing cost you recieved from an outside company and that should get you a pretty good deal.

Typically a good benchmark for a new car purchasemight be Invoice+200-manufacturers rebate.

If you are OK with loss leaders you can usually pick up a sunday paper and jsut walk in and take the deal advertised. Usually these deal Represent the Invoice Cost-advertising-holdback-finace-manufactures rebate. If you are OK with the color selection and option on the car it is a good way to buy.

[Raybyrnes]

patientlywaiting

“Now if you charge the car, the vendor will pay a discount fee, which he will likely include in the price of the car.”

That’s not true.

The deal has already been made. Whether you use a credit card or not has nothing to do with pricing.

There is not that much negotiating that you need to do if you understand the process.

Eliminate variables. By this I mean there is no trade in, don’t need to worry about financing becasue I have already been preapproved, and I am not looking for a warranty.

Take a look in a local paper or go online to see if there are any Cash rebates. These rebates are provided by the manufacturer not the dealer.

Understand the pricing structure of cars. There are the sticker price represented by MSRP.
Then there is the Invoice Cost. This is typically referred to as dealer cost but it is not a true dealer cost. Built into the invoice cost of a car is 3 additional costs. Those costs include Advertising, Financing and Holdback. Typically advertising and financing are about 1%. Holdback is generally going to be 3% of MSRP.

So putting this together would mean going to a dealer and knowing the invoice price of the car.

Then looking to apply a manufacturer rebate to that invoice cost.

Last by using your own financing in advance you can dimply apply the price of the car to the financing cost you recieved from an outside company and that should get you a pretty good deal.

Typically a good benchmark for a new car purchasemight be Invoice+200-manufacturers rebate.

If you are OK with loss leaders you can usually pick up a sunday paper and jsut walk in and take the deal advertised. Usually these deal Represent the Invoice Cost-advertising-holdback-finace-manufactures rebate. If you are OK with the color selection and option on the car it is a good way to buy.

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