Dear wise handy people… What would you do to extract this bolt….

[Coronita]

[quote=scaredyclassic]Race in just a speedo.[/quote]

I was kidding about the 15 lbs…. Probably closer to 7….Can’t race in speedos. Too much exposed metal. My legs already get thrashed from hitting the sharp exposed metal.

As long as I can stay around 160ish at 5′ 10″, I think that’s the best I can do…I’ve tried to lose more, but it’s really hard to keep it off.

[svelte]

[quote=Coronita]

I was kidding about the 15 lbs…. Probably closer to 7…..[/quote]

If you’re talking about the difference that eating and “releasing” makes, I think it’s closer to 2-3 lbs.

I’ve tracked by weight carefully, and that’s the biggest difference I’ve seen. My lowest reading is first thing in the AM, after I’ve visited the bathroom but before I eat.

My weight can be 2-3 lbs higher at other points in the day.

When I got down to 158 lbs, my wife said I looked like I had cancer. I think my ideal weight for my frame is probably around 175 lbs. Unfortunately I’m about 10 lbs over that right now. Damn pandemic.

The heaviest I ever weighed was 199 lbs a few years back. That convinced me to revisit my intake…I never want to be 200 lbs or greater. Ever.

[svelte]

I had a Miata almost exactly like yours Flu. Except it was 100% stock. First year, no options, just a clean basic fun little car. I bought it from a friend of mine who was the original owner. He was buying a house in Coronado and was cashing out everything that wasn’t nailed down to afford it, so I got a good deal on it. His family was mad and thought I paid too little. So in front of his family I made him a deal – if at any point in time he wanted to buy it back, I’d sell it back to him at the same price. I wasn’t putting many miles on it so basically it would be the same car he sold me.

He never bought it back. He has since passed away, shockingly.

He got mad at me when I put chrome rings on the rims. I’ll never forget that. He wanted it to remain 100% stock.

[gzz]

I like the idea of replacing my car’s heavy lead acid battery with a light and modern lithium one.

Which model would you get? Probably not economic for mainstream use yet.

[Coronita]

[quote=gzz]I like the idea of replacing my car’s heavy lead acid battery with a light and modern lithium one.

Which model would you get? Probably not economic for mainstream use yet.[/quote]

It depends on how much CCA you need. This car can get by with something around 300 CCA give or take, so it’s about $150 for a decent Shorai battery. Traditional Lead-Acid battery was around $110, unless I get the Walmart special which would have been around 80. Costco doesn’t stock the battery otherwise that would have been the best option.

The biggest issue with the LiFEPO4 battery is you absolutely need to make sure you never run the battery down to completely dead. If you do, that becomes a paperweight pretty quickly. The bigger concern is in modern cars, there’s so much electronics that the car is drawing some current even when it’s off. So personally, I would only feel comfortable putting this battery in with a kill switch that cuts off the rest of the car’s electronic to the battery. I have this in my car, and take the cutoff switch key with me. I don’t have much electronics left in the car.

Also, thing about LiFEPO4 batteries is you need to get a special trickle charger for it. You can’t use the one for traditional Lead-Acid batteries.

Speaking of battery conditioners…I keep a battery conditioner on all the cars I’m not driving all the time. That does a pretty good job keep the battery 7-8 years.

I have this 4 bank unit (when it was much cheaper and sold directly by AAA)

I also have two single units for the other two cars I care slightly more about…The CTek condition is good and it’s small enough to take with you.

For the lipo4 battery, the CTEK version you want is:

https://www.amazon.com/CTEK-56-926-LITHIUM-Automatic-Phosphate

And a cheaper version

LiFeP04 batteries don’t require overnight charging. They charge pretty quick, usually within 1-2 hours. And disconnected from any/all load, they hold their charge very well for a long time.

You don’t really need a LiFEPO4 battery unless you really need to save the weight. For a street car, it’s unnecessary, I don’t have it any of my other cars. If you run heavy electronics in a car, don’t do it. For example, if you have a super-duper sound system…. I wouldn’t have done it if it wasn’t for the extra weight put back into the car with a rollbar and a blower for the motor. Blowers are heavy too. Also not a good financial decision, because it ended up costing more than the car. But they certainly are fun… (installing them, not so fun…)

[img_assist|nid=27261|title=|desc=|link=node|align=left|width=400|height=300]

(Pay no attention to the clear zipties holding the throttle cable assembly from moving and jamming at full throttle. That was only temporary when a bolt came off during a race. It was either zipties or duct tape…. Hey, people laughed, but I was able to finish the day. And besides, its permenantly fixed now…. Couldn’t find a replacement bolt, but now I use black colored zip ties that are thicker… :()

I like having shitty cars….I don’t know why.

[Coronita]

New problem. broke a bolt off the trunk lid while trying to reassemble it after painting….

and while trying to remove the broken bolt using vice grips, sheered the bolt nut right off the trunk lid weld points. lol.

so I just bought another tool… Rivet mut tool and rivet nuts…lol.

but hey, even scotty likes them…

[Coronita]

Not bad for $20 from Amazon….

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[img_assist|nid=27270|title=|desc=|link=node|align=left|width=300|height=200]

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