[ucodegen]

1) I think the OP is trolling in this case. The account name was created just to post this.
2) The referenced article is simplistic. Much more simplistic than a professor of Economics and Law should come up with. He took a something which had a surprisingly simple cure and spun it into a justification for something much more far reaching. The author also did not distinguish between regulation and the enforcement of existing regulation. There is a big difference between having regulation and not enforcing it versus not having the regulation in the first place.

The cause of the whole financial collapse of cards is actually fairly simple. Risk was not correctly priced when it came to mortgage loans. Why?
1) You had Congress tampering with risk pricing through Freddie and Fannie.
2) Credit Default Swaps, which are really insurance policies, are not regulated as such. Credit Default Swaps are the sacred cows of the banking industry because they allow almost unlimited leverage.

You can also expand this to include:
3) Lack of basic financial knowledge on the part of most of the populace.
4) Reduction in concepts of personal responsibility on the part of a large portion of the populace. (Entitlement generation).

[ucodegen]

1) I think the OP is trolling in this case. The account name was created just to post this.
2) The referenced article is simplistic. Much more simplistic than a professor of Economics and Law should come up with. He took a something which had a surprisingly simple cure and spun it into a justification for something much more far reaching. The author also did not distinguish between regulation and the enforcement of existing regulation. There is a big difference between having regulation and not enforcing it versus not having the regulation in the first place.

The cause of the whole financial collapse of cards is actually fairly simple. Risk was not correctly priced when it came to mortgage loans. Why?
1) You had Congress tampering with risk pricing through Freddie and Fannie.
2) Credit Default Swaps, which are really insurance policies, are not regulated as such. Credit Default Swaps are the sacred cows of the banking industry because they allow almost unlimited leverage.

You can also expand this to include:
3) Lack of basic financial knowledge on the part of most of the populace.
4) Reduction in concepts of personal responsibility on the part of a large portion of the populace. (Entitlement generation).

[ucodegen]

1) I think the OP is trolling in this case. The account name was created just to post this.
2) The referenced article is simplistic. Much more simplistic than a professor of Economics and Law should come up with. He took a something which had a surprisingly simple cure and spun it into a justification for something much more far reaching. The author also did not distinguish between regulation and the enforcement of existing regulation. There is a big difference between having regulation and not enforcing it versus not having the regulation in the first place.

The cause of the whole financial collapse of cards is actually fairly simple. Risk was not correctly priced when it came to mortgage loans. Why?
1) You had Congress tampering with risk pricing through Freddie and Fannie.
2) Credit Default Swaps, which are really insurance policies, are not regulated as such. Credit Default Swaps are the sacred cows of the banking industry because they allow almost unlimited leverage.

You can also expand this to include:
3) Lack of basic financial knowledge on the part of most of the populace.
4) Reduction in concepts of personal responsibility on the part of a large portion of the populace. (Entitlement generation).

[ucodegen]

[quote=SD Transplant]per Jim’s cool linky & report, the ROI for vinyl window is 80.3%

http://www.bubbleinfo.com/2011/01/16/repair-costs-vs-value/%5B/quote%5D
This is ROI on resale.. does not include savings in heating and cooling costs..

[ucodegen]

[quote=SD Transplant]per Jim’s cool linky & report, the ROI for vinyl window is 80.3%

http://www.bubbleinfo.com/2011/01/16/repair-costs-vs-value/%5B/quote%5D
This is ROI on resale.. does not include savings in heating and cooling costs..

[ucodegen]

[quote=SD Transplant]per Jim’s cool linky & report, the ROI for vinyl window is 80.3%

http://www.bubbleinfo.com/2011/01/16/repair-costs-vs-value/%5B/quote%5D
This is ROI on resale.. does not include savings in heating and cooling costs..

[ucodegen]

[quote=SD Transplant]per Jim’s cool linky & report, the ROI for vinyl window is 80.3%

http://www.bubbleinfo.com/2011/01/16/repair-costs-vs-value/%5B/quote%5D
This is ROI on resale.. does not include savings in heating and cooling costs..

[ucodegen]

[quote=SD Transplant]per Jim’s cool linky & report, the ROI for vinyl window is 80.3%

http://www.bubbleinfo.com/2011/01/16/repair-costs-vs-value/%5B/quote%5D
This is ROI on resale.. does not include savings in heating and cooling costs..

[ucodegen]

[quote=desmond]The above ideas sound great but on a steep slope all are heavy and to hard to work with. Your best bet would be to use Railroad ties, they can be cut to width, stacked, relatively light and inexpensive, can be secured by stakes, or drill a hole in them and drive rebar through them and into the soil. Here are some pictures on steep slopes:

http://landscaping.about.com/gi/o.htm?zi=1/XJ&zTi=1&sdn=landscaping&cdn=homegarden&tm=29&gps=449_454_1436_708&f=00&tt=14&bt=1&bts=1&zu=http%3A//www.railwaysleeper.com/Customers%2520ideas%2C%2520photos%2520and%2520projects.htm%5B/quote%5D
Railroad ties are heavier than most people think.. They are 6″ x 8″ in cross section and soaked in creosote. This also makes them flammable and very difficult to put out if they catch fire.

[ucodegen]

[quote=desmond]The above ideas sound great but on a steep slope all are heavy and to hard to work with. Your best bet would be to use Railroad ties, they can be cut to width, stacked, relatively light and inexpensive, can be secured by stakes, or drill a hole in them and drive rebar through them and into the soil. Here are some pictures on steep slopes:

http://landscaping.about.com/gi/o.htm?zi=1/XJ&zTi=1&sdn=landscaping&cdn=homegarden&tm=29&gps=449_454_1436_708&f=00&tt=14&bt=1&bts=1&zu=http%3A//www.railwaysleeper.com/Customers%2520ideas%2C%2520photos%2520and%2520projects.htm%5B/quote%5D
Railroad ties are heavier than most people think.. They are 6″ x 8″ in cross section and soaked in creosote. This also makes them flammable and very difficult to put out if they catch fire.

[ucodegen]

[quote=desmond]The above ideas sound great but on a steep slope all are heavy and to hard to work with. Your best bet would be to use Railroad ties, they can be cut to width, stacked, relatively light and inexpensive, can be secured by stakes, or drill a hole in them and drive rebar through them and into the soil. Here are some pictures on steep slopes:

http://landscaping.about.com/gi/o.htm?zi=1/XJ&zTi=1&sdn=landscaping&cdn=homegarden&tm=29&gps=449_454_1436_708&f=00&tt=14&bt=1&bts=1&zu=http%3A//www.railwaysleeper.com/Customers%2520ideas%2C%2520photos%2520and%2520projects.htm%5B/quote%5D
Railroad ties are heavier than most people think.. They are 6″ x 8″ in cross section and soaked in creosote. This also makes them flammable and very difficult to put out if they catch fire.

[ucodegen]

[quote=desmond]The above ideas sound great but on a steep slope all are heavy and to hard to work with. Your best bet would be to use Railroad ties, they can be cut to width, stacked, relatively light and inexpensive, can be secured by stakes, or drill a hole in them and drive rebar through them and into the soil. Here are some pictures on steep slopes:

http://landscaping.about.com/gi/o.htm?zi=1/XJ&zTi=1&sdn=landscaping&cdn=homegarden&tm=29&gps=449_454_1436_708&f=00&tt=14&bt=1&bts=1&zu=http%3A//www.railwaysleeper.com/Customers%2520ideas%2C%2520photos%2520and%2520projects.htm%5B/quote%5D
Railroad ties are heavier than most people think.. They are 6″ x 8″ in cross section and soaked in creosote. This also makes them flammable and very difficult to put out if they catch fire.

[ucodegen]

[quote=desmond]The above ideas sound great but on a steep slope all are heavy and to hard to work with. Your best bet would be to use Railroad ties, they can be cut to width, stacked, relatively light and inexpensive, can be secured by stakes, or drill a hole in them and drive rebar through them and into the soil. Here are some pictures on steep slopes:

http://landscaping.about.com/gi/o.htm?zi=1/XJ&zTi=1&sdn=landscaping&cdn=homegarden&tm=29&gps=449_454_1436_708&f=00&tt=14&bt=1&bts=1&zu=http%3A//www.railwaysleeper.com/Customers%2520ideas%2C%2520photos%2520and%2520projects.htm%5B/quote%5D
Railroad ties are heavier than most people think.. They are 6″ x 8″ in cross section and soaked in creosote. This also makes them flammable and very difficult to put out if they catch fire.

[ucodegen]

A tool that helps building a ‘trailway’ on a slope: San Angelo bar. You mark where the cut ‘in’ on the slope will be for the trailway and you drive the tip (spade or pointed) in at that point and then pull the top end of the bar towards the down slope. Watch your toes, the bar is heavy. Drive the tip of the bar in by lifting the bar (2 to 3 feet) with the tip down and then dropping the bar (tip end down), even help gravity by driving it down instead of just letting gravity do the work.

The San Angelo bar is also useful if you need to remove cactus, particularly yuccas. It is also useful when trying to dig in compacted or rocky soil.

I used to do trail maintenance in Los Padres and San Gabriels. The San Angelo bar was my favorite ‘weapon’. Good for moving rocks too.

I wouldn’t use the bag of cement method. You end up wasting a lot of cement. You only need just under 2″ thick and a bag of cement is much thicker. The other problem is that it will be hard to get the entire contents of the bag wet. Odds will be that it will harden with the center still ‘powder’.

You can use cinderbrick for the ‘retaining wall’. Fill the holes with dirt and put plants in them (holes upwards). You can also use cinderbrick for the steps by putting them sideways (holes horizontal) or oriented normally.

Another trick would be to get all of the loose rock that you don’t want and to press/work them into the loose soil of the trailway after you cut it into the slope (don’t use the smooth surface rock though because it would be slippery if moist)

Another option for retaining wall is interlocking brick (some places mix this up with pavers, but it is for vertical walls).

http://flyashbricksinfo.com/construction/concrete-masonry-units-mortarless-block-systems.html

[ucodegen]

A tool that helps building a ‘trailway’ on a slope: San Angelo bar. You mark where the cut ‘in’ on the slope will be for the trailway and you drive the tip (spade or pointed) in at that point and then pull the top end of the bar towards the down slope. Watch your toes, the bar is heavy. Drive the tip of the bar in by lifting the bar (2 to 3 feet) with the tip down and then dropping the bar (tip end down), even help gravity by driving it down instead of just letting gravity do the work.

The San Angelo bar is also useful if you need to remove cactus, particularly yuccas. It is also useful when trying to dig in compacted or rocky soil.

I used to do trail maintenance in Los Padres and San Gabriels. The San Angelo bar was my favorite ‘weapon’. Good for moving rocks too.

I wouldn’t use the bag of cement method. You end up wasting a lot of cement. You only need just under 2″ thick and a bag of cement is much thicker. The other problem is that it will be hard to get the entire contents of the bag wet. Odds will be that it will harden with the center still ‘powder’.

You can use cinderbrick for the ‘retaining wall’. Fill the holes with dirt and put plants in them (holes upwards). You can also use cinderbrick for the steps by putting them sideways (holes horizontal) or oriented normally.

Another trick would be to get all of the loose rock that you don’t want and to press/work them into the loose soil of the trailway after you cut it into the slope (don’t use the smooth surface rock though because it would be slippery if moist)

Another option for retaining wall is interlocking brick (some places mix this up with pavers, but it is for vertical walls).

http://flyashbricksinfo.com/construction/concrete-masonry-units-mortarless-block-systems.html

[Author]

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