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CoronitaParticipantSo if you’re short on homebuilders. Clearly the speculation direction is clear.
Time to go long on homebuilder stock!!!
Homebuilders to the moon!!!!!
April 1, 2022 at 10:52 AM in reply to: Yield curve inversion, short to medium term macro predictions #824790CoronitaParticipant[quote=deadzone]You can’t possible overestimate the power of the Fed, they have been controlling the bond/mbs market since 2009. Nothing since the era of QE has been organic or free market.
Look at current Fed MBS holdings, I don’t see much evidence of tapering to this point.
https://fred.stlouisfed.org/series/WSHOMCB%5B/quote%5D
You’re back!…
Just in time to post about how bad the markets are so we get a DZ relief rally!!!!
Go dz!!!!
Netflix and Peloton to the moon!
CoronitaParticipant[quote=sdrealtor]I do the same with wine sometime. The problem is the most flippable wines are hard to obtain and involved years long waiting lists. Screaming Eagle is probably over 20 years if ever[/quote]
I know nothing about wine. It all tastes the same to me.
I don’t think gold is a great investment. but it’s probably a good way to transfer and launder money under the table since if you purchase above $1500 per transaction, there really isn’t a record of it if you pay cash or with crypto. Not that I would know anything a out money laundering in practice
..CoronitaParticipantIt’s very unlikely 1 ounce or below gold bullion or gold coin purchased from reputable dealers is going to be fake, so it really doesn’t matter what coin or reputable brand bar you buy. Just stick with the more common ones and buy from a reputable dealer(s)
For svelte , it might be more interesting mix it up and get variety.
American Eagles are good, but my preference would be gold coins that are 99.99% pure. American Eagles 91.67% pure, or 22k. On the other hand American Buffalo and Canadian Maple Leafs, Aussie Kangaroo,
mexican Libertad, Austrian Philharmonic, South African Krugerrand are 99.9% pure, or 24k. Also, the markup for American Eagle and Buffalos above spot is usually much more than other coins. Imho, you really can’t go wrong with any of them since gold is gold and the gold content is the same, so it boils down to price and what you like. My favorite are probably the Aussie Kangaroo and Canadian Maple because of the shiny finishSome ideas:
Valcamni Suisse bar (serial number reddacted)
[img_assist|nid=27562|title=vs|desc=|link=node|align=left| width=250]Perth Mint Oriana
[img_assist|nid=27563|title=oriana|desc=|link=node|align=left|width=250]Australian Kangaroo
[img_assist|nid=27564|title=k1|desc=|link=node|align=left|width=250] [img_assist|nid=27565|title=k2|desc=|link=node|align=left|width=250]Canadian Maple Leaf
[img_assist|nid=27566|title=maple1|desc=|link=node|align=left|width=250] [img_assist|nid=27567|title=maple2|desc=|link=node|align=left|width=250]American Buffalo
[img_assist|nid=27568|title=b1|desc=|link=node|align=left|width=250]
[img_assist|nid=27569|title=b2|desc=|link=node|align=left|width=250]American Eagle
[img_assist|nid=27573|title=e1|desc=|link=node|align=left|width=250]
[img_assist|nid=27574|title=e2|desc=|link=node|align=left|width=250]British Britannia
[img_assist|nid=27571|title=br1|desc=|link=node|align=left|width=250]
[img_assist|nid=27572|title=br2|desc=|link=node|align=left|width=250]Mexican Libertad
[img_assist|nid=27575|title=m1|desc=|link=node|align=left|width=250]
[img_assist|nid=27576|title=m2|desc=|link=node|align=left|width=250]Austrian Philharmonic
[img_assist|nid=27577|title=ph1|desc=|link=node|align=left|width=250]
[img_assist|nid=27578|title=ph2|desc=|link=node|align=left|width=250]I think if you want to “invest”, maybe it’s easier to just get a tracking ETF like GLD or any of their 2x 3x variants. But I like to collect bling bling and don’t plan to sell. (Ok, maybe sell a few duplicate ones to cover the cost of the ones that I keep… Kinda like what my sibling does with wine… Buy 4 special reservice wine, sell 3 to pay for the 1 she drinks, lol)
CoronitaParticipant[quote=sdrealtor]Unless your name is Frank and you have a Porsche. Then its ok LOL[/quote]
…If you’re Frank from Piggington, you will never own a Porsche, because every time you put an order or deposit down for a Porsche, something will happen and give you an excuse to derail that plan and go cheap… like the availability of short sale property or two…
Plus Frank can not afford breaking Porsche transmissions and regularly replacing Porsche tires that Frank can do to miatas, which still is painful to the wallet, but not anywhere near the level of pain inflicted if that were to happen on a P-car. Some cars are meant to be raced, not flexed….And when they are raced, drivers needed to be prepared to write them off completely in the worst case scenario…Frank isn’t ready for that.
Some P-cars that frank would want to race, you cannot easily change the tires in your own garage with all the cool tools…….
Center lock wheels:CoronitaParticipant[quote=gzz]Here’s a question for you. When should I change the oil if I drive 3k miles a year?
I am at 1500 and 6mo mark right now.
Years ago I researched this and came up with every 6 months for a consistent lower mileage driver.[/quote]
Well, that depends.
1. Do you put in synthetic? If you don’t, you should. You shouldn’t use anything but synthetic in a direct injection.
2. Are those highway miles or local miles?
Because highway miles are better than local miles.As a rule of thumb:
* with direct injection engines, I do synthetic oil changes + filter every 6 months regardless if it’s low miles. My mileage is about 5000/year.
* with non-direct injection engines, I do oil changes 1 year with synthetic oil + non-paper oil filters. My mileage is about 5000/year for those cars.
* for cars that I autocross or do a HPDE track event (once each month), I do synthetic oil change + filter after every 2 autocrosses or after 1 HPDE track event, regardless of mileage, which is probably overkill. I also run a front mount oil cooler, which besides keeping the engine cooler, also adds an extra quart of capacity.
[img_assist|nid=27561|title=oil cooler|desc=|link=node|align=left|width=1000]
For the mazda, I just use 0w20 castrol or valvoline 0w20 full synthetic with the OEM filter, which I get for like $5 in bulk from Mazda Motorsports. The oil is about $23/qt from walmart (some places it’s $28 now).
If you have the dealer do your oil, it might be cheaper if you bring in your own synthetic oil and have them use it. The markup for synthetic at a dealer is kinda high. Labor is the same.
For run of the mill car, you can get the Castrol or Valvoline 5w40 European Spec oil for like $23/quart. That will work in most german car except high performance BMW M-car or Mercedes AMG or Audi S/RS cars or Porsche. You shouldn’t be changing your own oil if you have a Porsche anyway..
CoronitaParticipantRegardless, Mazda’s are nice cars. In the long run $1000 more won’t matter anyway.
Toyotas are really expensive right now because of their reputation. You can drive a toyota most likely for 200k+ without any issues.
Mazda quality is getting way better. The quality isn’t the issue, is the availability of parts that will be of more concern because they are a smaller car company so a lot of parts are not cross-shared. It’s not nearly as bad as BMW’s but it’s not as good as sa y a Toyota because just by the number of cars under both their Toyota and Lexus brands
CoronitaParticipant… and that’s not my real name in my burner email address that I toss after negotiations….
CoronitaParticipantgzz, I hope you got the CX-30 carbon edition, because that’s the only one that is MSRP and it’s only available at Galpin. A quick 15 minute email to them, and they were able to get me MSRP for the carbon edition.
Otherwise, if you didn’t get a carbon edition, hopefully you didn’t get it at Escondido, because a quick 15 minutes, I got $1000 off msrp withour really trying that hard. I asked Galpin to beat or match to see what they have to say. They have 30 in stock and the longer one sits on the lot the more money they will lose, so I am pretty confident they will beat escondido to clear the inventory.
And that isn’t asking for the s-plan discount.
Next time, let me help you with the negotiations. I[img_assist|nid=27560|title=cx30|desc=|link=node|align=left|width=1000]
(Actual salesman email deleted to protect the innocent)
CoronitaParticipantgzz, I hope you got the CX-30 carbon edition, because that’s the only one that is MSRP and it’s only available at Galpin. A quick 15 minute email to them, and they were able to get me MSRP for the carbon edition.
Otherwise, if you didn’t get a carbon edition, hopefully you didn’t get it at Escondido, because a quick 15 minutes, I got $1000 off msrp withour really trying that hard. I’m asking Galpin to beat or match…
Next time, let me help you with the negotiations…[img_assist|nid=27560|title=cx30|desc=|link=node|align=left|width=1000]
(Actual salesman email deleted to protect the innocent)
CoronitaParticipant[quote=gzz]I purchased a mazda cx30 crossover at MSRP in September. They did a 3 year 0% loan too.
They basically would sell them within 2 days of arrival at the dealer. I just waited for one to pop up on their website, test drove it, bought it, made the salesman’s life easy as possible. He did try to charge an extra 2k market adjustment at first, but I moved on and called him back a week later and he changed his mind.
There’s no point in buying used now IMO if you can afford a new one.
I adore the car. Zero problems, and the best drive and interior out of the 6 I did test drives of and 15 I sat in. If you want a small CUV with awd, full leather, and drives like a car not an SUV, try it out.[/quote]
Ouch … MSRP? Mazdas use to sell below invoice. I had a cx5 priced $2k below invoice at the beginning of 2021, which was even been than S-plan friends and family pricing that you can get near ar invoice or a few hundred above. S-plan pricing is pretty easy to get. You just have to join Mazda Motorsports for free and you get parts at dealer cost and S-plan pricing on new cars. It’s not that hard to qualify for mazda motorsports membership. You just need to participate in one timed/result posted autocross/hpde event every two years and submit your proof you attended the event and finished. You don’t even need to drive a Mazda,it literally can be a beater car that barely crosses the finish line in a timed event. A simple autocross is like $80 but saves you hundreds if not thousand off a new car purchase because you can S-plan pricing and gets you parts at dealership cost.
I bought a brand new spare transmission from Mazda Motorsports for $1200, much less than any rebuild. $1200 for a new transmission is ridiculously cheap. That’s how much it costs just to replace a plastic valve cover on a BMW N55 engine, lol.
I’ve pretty much decided not to get a new car unless it’s electric. No point in getting an ICE car now. Plus I got a few to drive into the ground before I have from for another car, lol.
Hopefully, you shopped around with LA dealers too over the internet. Galpin Mazda sells cars well below other dealers because they are one of the largest dealers in SoCal. They are the ones that were going to give me way below invoice on the CX-5.
They have over 30 cx-30’s so they wheel and deal. Unlike miata’s where there’s no inventory and marked up.
https://www.galpinmazda.com/inventory/new-vehicles/models=Mazda_CX-30
CoronitaParticipant[quote=limkotir]A lot of money and demand chasing too few goods. Going through the car buying process myself right now – different product but same story, but unlike cars and many consumer goods, you can just pump up the supply side of the equation to counter balance the demand.
$7M is quite out of reach for 99% of the public, but I wonder what is that sweet spot price that balances size, condition and the general area of the home to what you’re paying, if you guys know what I’m asking here — feels like $2.5M to $3M for these NCC homes tracked in this thread?[/quote]
Now is an awful time to buy a car. I would strongly advise against it unless it’s absolutely necessary….You are going to bend over totally, unless you have a way to get employee discounting.
Even the used market is crazy.. I gauge inflation and craziness by the outlook of miatas.
[img_assist|nid=27554|title=miata1|desc=|link=node|align=left|width=1000]
[img_assist|nid=27559|title=miata2|desc=|link=node|align=left|width=1000]
Um… These use to be cheap autocross/rally/HPDE beater cars around $2k.
Granted these two examples appear to have been rebuilt and one has some nice engine upgrades…But still…..That isn’t even a built motor. It’s probably just a normal motor with a blower attached to it. That S3 turbo kit on the second car doesnt add like $10k to the car’s price.
Also honda just announced they are starting to offer certified preowned cars for cars 10 years old. lol.
Good thing I kept my old one after the new one. One day it will be worth more than all my POS german cars combined… Just need a few more kids to crash and total some more.
CoronitaParticipant[quote=anxvariety]Prepare to be much poorer no matter the strategy. The bubble fills to get as many people locked into to interest paying contracts as possible, before deflating rapidly.. those with interest paying agreements will unfortunately pay for all the fun over the last decade or so. See Weimar, rations were implemented so # of ‘dollars’ didn’t really matter much unless spending a few hundred for some butter on the black market. The interest paying bagholders, and those charlatans telling others its a good time to buy are agents of inflation.. and ‘we all falll dowwnnn’. “but but I thought that loans were going to be easier to pay back with inflation!” “well, the inflation already occurred no one told you about this next part? its great and all that you have 1% interest but you paid 1 million for a 1000 sq ft ‘crap shack'”.[/quote]
huh? Bay area folks have been use to paying $1million for a crap shack for decades.
The issue right now is lack of inventory.
And one thing a few were discussing. Another reason not to sell. High capital gains taxes. Federal + state taxes combined being 30%, you’re better off borrowing against the equity than to sell.
That’s the irony. I think one way to get more inventory and to get more people to sell is for the state to have a state capital gains holiday on home sales, instead of politicians trying to figure out more ways to tax more, lol
CoronitaParticipantAlso, white vinegar is an excellent cleaning agent. It’s cheap and it’s much more effective than a lot of the tile and grout cleaners. It dissolves soap scum and mildew really easily pour into a spray bottle and let it sit for 15 minutes the only caveat is tolerating the smell. Spray after using your shower or tub and rinse and you never need cleaner to clean
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