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CoronitaParticipantIt’s really 5% + inflation adjustment, whatever that will be….
Not a big deal… not really a big impact …
CoronitaParticipantDone deal!
Time to raise rent prices before it kicks in in January.
CoronitaParticipant[quote=The-Shoveler][quote=flu]
3. Single family homes exempt, unless owned by large corporations[/quote]Not sure if Mom&Pop exemption applies to condo’s[/quote]
Condos no, single family homes …yes…But reality is 7.5% rental cap is a lot.
The more I research and read about it, some landlords are really gouging people, and it’s usually the ones most financially vulnerable. The spirit of this law is meant to protect gouging on basic necessities such as shelter. I might not agree on the implementation of this…But the spirit of this law was intended to protect the most vulnerable. I can sort of understand what some people are going through when housing because unaffordable.
CoronitaParticipantIf you read the fine print, there’s actually a few nuggets that mean this really won’t be as bad as some say it will be, even assuming it goes through..
https://www.lamag.com/citythinkblog/california-rent-control/
The proposal is 5% above the inflation rate, which in CA is 2.5%. So that means a total cap of 7.5% per year. That’s a pretty substantial rental price increase per year imho. The main purpose of this bill is to cut down on predatory evictions. The irony to this is this “cap” will end up turning into a guaranteed rental increase floor, which more landlords will probably attempt to raise the rents every year and discourage landlords from long term lease arrangements.
Also, there are rules governing exemptions..
The abridged version: proposed CA state wide law
1. Rent price increases capped to 5% per year above the 2.5% inflation index: total maximum annual rent increase: 7.5%
2. Properties built 15 years and newer exempt
3. Single family homes exempt, unless owned by large corporations
CoronitaParticipant[quote=treehugger]We are seriously trying to buy one for our daughter (or at least help her buy one), she is in college and wants a new car (grandpa is giving her a few thousand for down payment) and I have e-mailed about 20 dealerships and they are the biggest bunch of morons I have ever dealt with!!! How soon can you get down here and test drive??? As soon as you give me the best deal I will come purchase! Does anybody actually waste their time dealing with these idiots in person? At least at home i can have a drink and relax on my couch while I waste my time. Or talk to them while I am out on a run with my dogs, that was fun!
I search the internet it says base model MSRP is $27,350 with $3,500 toyota incentive starting point should be $23,850 plus any other incentives from dealership, they have marked the cars up and are trying to pretend the $3,500 off of $29,800 is a great deal, do they not use google? Type in 2019 Prius Prime MSRP and every site says starting at $27,350!!! Only one dealership actually provided a breakdown of costs and I am still awaiting final, but we are at about $21,900-$4,500 fed rebate would equal $17,400 and she would definitely qualify for the state rebate of $1500, so now at $15,900, ugh, don’t really want to drive to Moreno Valley tomorrow![/quote]
I am sorry because people like me ruined it for people like you.
I bought all my cars over the internet with a large paper trail and now internet sales managers are very hesitant to deal with people over email because they know that the moment they give a price, you’ll shop it across 10 other dealers until you find the lowest one….
However you only really need one dealer to name a price and then you can let the ball roll.
My advice is to first contact one dealer via TrueCar. Don’t let the TrueCar estimate fool you. You can usually do a lot better than TrueCar … all the cars I bought we’re always well below the “exceptional” price range .
Get one estimate from exactly one dealer from TrueCar. Then take that estimate and open your favorite HTML editor and knock a few hundred off that email and forward it to the next dealer to see if they can beat it. Contact the interest sales dept directly not through TrueCar, that way it costs the dealership less. Rinse and repeat. Usually the Toyota dealers that have a large inventory are usually the ones that are more willing to wheel and deal over the internet. Don’t ever set foot in the showroom. Never give them your real phone number … Always do things over email or text. I negotiated my last car completely over SMS between 4 dealers. Cerritos and Browning in LA, and El Cajon and Mission Valley down here. Some of them didn’t want to do it over email,so I convinced them to do it over text. I guess they felt it was more like over the phone than over email (despite SMS having a paper trail too. )
On first year production car (4 months from US debut) I got my car about $4200 below MSRP or about $1500 below invoice. That was better the friends paying MSRP (lol) and family s-plan discount pricing. My original car that I wanted was a previous year leftover that I got down to about $7100 but decided I wanted the current year model. The two dealers up LA provided the feeder prices, I got Mission Valley to match, then I applied a high pressure text blast to El Cajon saying I was going to buy in a few hours and I needed a price quote. El Cajon lowered their price and sent me the OTD total price via SMS..I took a screenshot of that and forwarded it to Mission Valley and said make me an offer so I don’t need to go all the way to ElCajon. The salesman find ally got tired of it and gave me a final price $800 below ElCajon….I bought it the same day.
….and then burned my temporary Google Voice number and never heard from the other 3 dealers again.Yes, I guess it was kind of cold and brutal…Bit I never got a good treatment whenever I was physically in any of the dealerships…With the exception of the Aston Martin dealership in Kearny Mesa, who was very nice to me and offered me a test drive and Porsche of San Diego that let me borrow the 991 911s demo for almost an hour to try it out. God I miss driving that car….But buying that short sales condo was a better investment back then..
CoronitaParticipant[quote=scaredyclassic][quote=flu][quote=scaredyclassic]My mom thinks it’s terrible that I bought cars for my 3 kids, but I commute only by bike.
I think its cool[/quote]
Nah.. You’re part of the cool club now…
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RksFDe6nkaY%5B/quote%5D
Haha.
But seriously, why buy any other car?[/quote]
It’s just missing one small aftermarket upgrade… But yes, this proves you really dont need any other car.
CoronitaParticipant[quote=scaredyclassic]My mom thinks it’s terrible that I bought cars for my 3 kids, but I commute only by bike.
I think its cool[/quote]
Nah.. You’re part of the cool club now…
CoronitaParticipantnot that it’s a problem here.. But EV cars might have issues in cold climates.
CoronitaParticipant[quote=treehugger]What dealership did you use? I miss my old prius and this seriously has me tempted to get rid of the Volvo SUV. I live near the Carlsbad Toyota dealership, but have not had good experience with them….[/quote]
oh god don’t go there. Rip off alert.none of the San Diego toyota dealers I found to be good in price.
Get internet quotes from LA dealerships.. get it in writing OTD price….you still end up paying SD sales tax 7.75% because that’s based on registered address.
CoronitaParticipant[quote=scaredyclassic][quote=FlyerInHi]flu…. do you think that American Tesla is anymore reliable than Mercedes? Would you buy a Mercedes electric?
Honestly, I think electric is a new product line and you can’t project gas car reliability history to electric. But, yeah we will see in about 10 years. My experience has been very different with the Fiat 500e and the i3. Very reliable so far. Some rattles but nothing wrong. I think the Chevy Bolt would be reliable too — but not according to chevy’s reputation.
Scaredy, I buy so many things and don’t bother with reviews. Reading consumer reports seems old fashioned. I buy so many appliances and TVs for my condos — whatever is cheap enough but looks good works for me — never any problems. I think that commodity items are all the same. If the price is cheap, just replace it when time comes.
I do like Samsung appliances. I think they run quieter and the design is more modern.[/quote]Consumer reports is kind of for old people. My kids think its dumb.
But I still feel it pushes one toward slightly better decisions.
Or at least alerted me that our Mini would suck[/quote]
Scotty is your friend…
He’s very entertaining… Not far from the truth.“Here’s why you should never buy a Mini”
You can count how many times he says retarded and stupid in the video. lol..
I tried working on a mini once. Thought it might be a fun Lemons race car..Fun car while it was running… Tried working on it…. I gave up..
CoronitaParticipantNo. Tesla’s depreciate very fast, are expensive to repair, and can be money pits too over the long period of time. But at least if you spend $40k on a Tesla, you’re getting a Tesla and not a VAG product which is known to be a money pit and from company that’s cheated on emissions before. And plus at least for what my parents would need, it would be a low mileage car. My dad’s BMW 550 has been incredibly reliable. Because it only has 15k miles on almost 7 year old car. And since I do all the service on it myself.
CoronitaParticipantThe BMW i3 and Fiat 500e that people I know have seen so much shop time I’m surprised they are surprised that it happens. Stupid electrical gremlins and random things, no necessarily directly part of the drivetrain, but nevertheless extremely expensive to fix once out of warranty. The eGolf won’t be any different.. It’s just the way that these European car companies build their cars. Things like Bosch fuel injection don’t normally break because that’s usually using common components every other manufacturer uses. But all the other electronic gizmos that comes from the company itself always tends to be buggy, and when it does need to be replaced, will be expensive because it’s closer to a custom/manufacturer only part than anything else. The eGolf/500e/i3 are such a low production car that when they do break, finding parts will be difficult, and being electric, it will only come from the manufacturer. It’s just a money pit waiting to happen.
Toyotas, on the other hand, have been doing their hybrids for so many years and while there have been a lot of advancement, there’s also been plenty of carried over technology. And because of the volume of the cars, their wont be a parts issue when things do break.
I’m not against European cars in general. Germans make fun ICE cars, and as a weekend/fun/toy car, they are great. Because you won’t be using/counting on them on a daily basis and you probably won’t trying to get 100-200k miles out of them. But for a commute/daily/car, where you’re going to drive it into a ground and expect repair/maintenance costs to be low, I wouldn’t count on something European.
CoronitaParticipantI’ll wait to see what happens to a
VW eGolf , Fiat e, or BMW i3 10 years from now… When their electronics crap out (which it will guaranteed) or if they get into a minor collision, owners will be hurting
CoronitaParticipantwow that’s a great deal equalizer and scardey. I like it….great price…..hmmmmm ……It’s good to buy these things while gas is cheap and no one cares about gas prices.
And the key is reliable…
Anything German/European e-Car will be a crapmobile post warranty. Guaranteed.
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