OT: Sloped backyard

[NotCranky]

[quote=LAAFTERHOURS]4s – thanks for the link. That lays out exactly how I was going to build the wall. My father-in-law is a foreman for construction/ concrete work. The wall would be concrete block with rebar with stone facing and top cap.

I dont own yet but since some of the properties we are looking at have this type of yard, I want to ensure that I can maximize the space. Again thanks for all the input.[/quote]

A project like The picture you linked could very well require engineering. Not going to argue firmly that it does, I always go to the source of the ultimate decision and don’t assume anything, or let people who are making money off the deal have the final word without verifying.

In this case, for example,the house being on top of the project and the steepness put surcharges on the wall that might prohibit the building jurisdiction from allowing prescriptive building.The close proximity of each level’s wall combined with the steepness is possibly creating additional requirements beyond the building jurisdiction basic plan. It is always safer to ask.

[UCGal]

Also, if there is a home below your home, and you plan on putting in an impervious surface (poured concrete patio for example), that will trigger a requirement for civil – just to show that drainage and grading don’t impact the home below you.

[UCGal]

Also, if there is a home below your home, and you plan on putting in an impervious surface (poured concrete patio for example), that will trigger a requirement for civil – just to show that drainage and grading don’t impact the home below you.

[UCGal]

Also, if there is a home below your home, and you plan on putting in an impervious surface (poured concrete patio for example), that will trigger a requirement for civil – just to show that drainage and grading don’t impact the home below you.

[UCGal]

Also, if there is a home below your home, and you plan on putting in an impervious surface (poured concrete patio for example), that will trigger a requirement for civil – just to show that drainage and grading don’t impact the home below you.

[UCGal]

Also, if there is a home below your home, and you plan on putting in an impervious surface (poured concrete patio for example), that will trigger a requirement for civil – just to show that drainage and grading don’t impact the home below you.

[4Sbuyer2002]

The links provided are “engineered plans” prepared by engineers.

One more note. If it is new construction MAKE SURE YOU ASK FOR A SOIL ANALYSIS REPORT! All new construction is required to conduct a fairly expensive soils analysis. I simply asked the builder for a copy of the report that reflected the soil for my lot and he allowed me to photocopy it no problem. It turns out that the nature of my soil was only about 30 to 35% as likely to slide/move (soil viscosity) as the default assumptions used to make the generic standard plans put out by San Diego City/County. In short, my wall is overbuilt/engineered which is no problem with me. Gives extra peace of mind. Don’t listen to those that want you to get engineering for anything under 7ft. Just use the standard plans (WHICH WERE DRAFTED BY ENGINEERS). They make very conservative assumptions. Follow the plans to a “T” however. In my case the plans called for #2 rebar which is very thick and can’t be bent by manual rebar benders. The mason, consulting an engineering guide determined that a #3 and #4 rebar wired together provided 25% greater strength than a #2 by itself. The guide he referenced was the standard in the industry. When the inspecter saw this, even after agreeing with the 25% greater strength recommendation by the guide, refused to approve it because the plan said “#2 rebar” and advised that if we wanted to use the #3 and #4 tied together we would have to get our own engineering . . . DESPITE it being stronger and despite the inspecter acknowledging it was stronger. The mason then had to order custom bent #2 which he then wired to the #3 and #4 already in the footing. In short . . . I think my retaining wall footing could hold back Mt. Everest at this point. Lesson is . . . 1) use the standard plans they are free and are prepared by engineers, 2) get a soils report from the builder if you can, 3) make sure you follow the plans exactly. Best decision I made in my landscaping was to do the retaining walls. Practically doubled the size of my backyard.

One correction to my earlier post. The link was for retaining walls with “level backfill.” I think you are doing it into a slope which would be “sloping backfill.” The plans for that wall are here http://www.sandiego.gov/development-services/industry/pdf/infobulletin/ib222.pdf. Again it only goes to 6ft. My wall is 7ft but is governed by the county and not the city. I know when I built the wall in 2002 the standard plans allowed walls up to 7ft.

[4Sbuyer2002]

The links provided are “engineered plans” prepared by engineers.

One more note. If it is new construction MAKE SURE YOU ASK FOR A SOIL ANALYSIS REPORT! All new construction is required to conduct a fairly expensive soils analysis. I simply asked the builder for a copy of the report that reflected the soil for my lot and he allowed me to photocopy it no problem. It turns out that the nature of my soil was only about 30 to 35% as likely to slide/move (soil viscosity) as the default assumptions used to make the generic standard plans put out by San Diego City/County. In short, my wall is overbuilt/engineered which is no problem with me. Gives extra peace of mind. Don’t listen to those that want you to get engineering for anything under 7ft. Just use the standard plans (WHICH WERE DRAFTED BY ENGINEERS). They make very conservative assumptions. Follow the plans to a “T” however. In my case the plans called for #2 rebar which is very thick and can’t be bent by manual rebar benders. The mason, consulting an engineering guide determined that a #3 and #4 rebar wired together provided 25% greater strength than a #2 by itself. The guide he referenced was the standard in the industry. When the inspecter saw this, even after agreeing with the 25% greater strength recommendation by the guide, refused to approve it because the plan said “#2 rebar” and advised that if we wanted to use the #3 and #4 tied together we would have to get our own engineering . . . DESPITE it being stronger and despite the inspecter acknowledging it was stronger. The mason then had to order custom bent #2 which he then wired to the #3 and #4 already in the footing. In short . . . I think my retaining wall footing could hold back Mt. Everest at this point. Lesson is . . . 1) use the standard plans they are free and are prepared by engineers, 2) get a soils report from the builder if you can, 3) make sure you follow the plans exactly. Best decision I made in my landscaping was to do the retaining walls. Practically doubled the size of my backyard.

One correction to my earlier post. The link was for retaining walls with “level backfill.” I think you are doing it into a slope which would be “sloping backfill.” The plans for that wall are here http://www.sandiego.gov/development-services/industry/pdf/infobulletin/ib222.pdf. Again it only goes to 6ft. My wall is 7ft but is governed by the county and not the city. I know when I built the wall in 2002 the standard plans allowed walls up to 7ft.

[4Sbuyer2002]

The links provided are “engineered plans” prepared by engineers.

One more note. If it is new construction MAKE SURE YOU ASK FOR A SOIL ANALYSIS REPORT! All new construction is required to conduct a fairly expensive soils analysis. I simply asked the builder for a copy of the report that reflected the soil for my lot and he allowed me to photocopy it no problem. It turns out that the nature of my soil was only about 30 to 35% as likely to slide/move (soil viscosity) as the default assumptions used to make the generic standard plans put out by San Diego City/County. In short, my wall is overbuilt/engineered which is no problem with me. Gives extra peace of mind. Don’t listen to those that want you to get engineering for anything under 7ft. Just use the standard plans (WHICH WERE DRAFTED BY ENGINEERS). They make very conservative assumptions. Follow the plans to a “T” however. In my case the plans called for #2 rebar which is very thick and can’t be bent by manual rebar benders. The mason, consulting an engineering guide determined that a #3 and #4 rebar wired together provided 25% greater strength than a #2 by itself. The guide he referenced was the standard in the industry. When the inspecter saw this, even after agreeing with the 25% greater strength recommendation by the guide, refused to approve it because the plan said “#2 rebar” and advised that if we wanted to use the #3 and #4 tied together we would have to get our own engineering . . . DESPITE it being stronger and despite the inspecter acknowledging it was stronger. The mason then had to order custom bent #2 which he then wired to the #3 and #4 already in the footing. In short . . . I think my retaining wall footing could hold back Mt. Everest at this point. Lesson is . . . 1) use the standard plans they are free and are prepared by engineers, 2) get a soils report from the builder if you can, 3) make sure you follow the plans exactly. Best decision I made in my landscaping was to do the retaining walls. Practically doubled the size of my backyard.

One correction to my earlier post. The link was for retaining walls with “level backfill.” I think you are doing it into a slope which would be “sloping backfill.” The plans for that wall are here http://www.sandiego.gov/development-services/industry/pdf/infobulletin/ib222.pdf. Again it only goes to 6ft. My wall is 7ft but is governed by the county and not the city. I know when I built the wall in 2002 the standard plans allowed walls up to 7ft.

[4Sbuyer2002]

The links provided are “engineered plans” prepared by engineers.

One more note. If it is new construction MAKE SURE YOU ASK FOR A SOIL ANALYSIS REPORT! All new construction is required to conduct a fairly expensive soils analysis. I simply asked the builder for a copy of the report that reflected the soil for my lot and he allowed me to photocopy it no problem. It turns out that the nature of my soil was only about 30 to 35% as likely to slide/move (soil viscosity) as the default assumptions used to make the generic standard plans put out by San Diego City/County. In short, my wall is overbuilt/engineered which is no problem with me. Gives extra peace of mind. Don’t listen to those that want you to get engineering for anything under 7ft. Just use the standard plans (WHICH WERE DRAFTED BY ENGINEERS). They make very conservative assumptions. Follow the plans to a “T” however. In my case the plans called for #2 rebar which is very thick and can’t be bent by manual rebar benders. The mason, consulting an engineering guide determined that a #3 and #4 rebar wired together provided 25% greater strength than a #2 by itself. The guide he referenced was the standard in the industry. When the inspecter saw this, even after agreeing with the 25% greater strength recommendation by the guide, refused to approve it because the plan said “#2 rebar” and advised that if we wanted to use the #3 and #4 tied together we would have to get our own engineering . . . DESPITE it being stronger and despite the inspecter acknowledging it was stronger. The mason then had to order custom bent #2 which he then wired to the #3 and #4 already in the footing. In short . . . I think my retaining wall footing could hold back Mt. Everest at this point. Lesson is . . . 1) use the standard plans they are free and are prepared by engineers, 2) get a soils report from the builder if you can, 3) make sure you follow the plans exactly. Best decision I made in my landscaping was to do the retaining walls. Practically doubled the size of my backyard.

One correction to my earlier post. The link was for retaining walls with “level backfill.” I think you are doing it into a slope which would be “sloping backfill.” The plans for that wall are here http://www.sandiego.gov/development-services/industry/pdf/infobulletin/ib222.pdf. Again it only goes to 6ft. My wall is 7ft but is governed by the county and not the city. I know when I built the wall in 2002 the standard plans allowed walls up to 7ft.

[4Sbuyer2002]

The links provided are “engineered plans” prepared by engineers.

One more note. If it is new construction MAKE SURE YOU ASK FOR A SOIL ANALYSIS REPORT! All new construction is required to conduct a fairly expensive soils analysis. I simply asked the builder for a copy of the report that reflected the soil for my lot and he allowed me to photocopy it no problem. It turns out that the nature of my soil was only about 30 to 35% as likely to slide/move (soil viscosity) as the default assumptions used to make the generic standard plans put out by San Diego City/County. In short, my wall is overbuilt/engineered which is no problem with me. Gives extra peace of mind. Don’t listen to those that want you to get engineering for anything under 7ft. Just use the standard plans (WHICH WERE DRAFTED BY ENGINEERS). They make very conservative assumptions. Follow the plans to a “T” however. In my case the plans called for #2 rebar which is very thick and can’t be bent by manual rebar benders. The mason, consulting an engineering guide determined that a #3 and #4 rebar wired together provided 25% greater strength than a #2 by itself. The guide he referenced was the standard in the industry. When the inspecter saw this, even after agreeing with the 25% greater strength recommendation by the guide, refused to approve it because the plan said “#2 rebar” and advised that if we wanted to use the #3 and #4 tied together we would have to get our own engineering . . . DESPITE it being stronger and despite the inspecter acknowledging it was stronger. The mason then had to order custom bent #2 which he then wired to the #3 and #4 already in the footing. In short . . . I think my retaining wall footing could hold back Mt. Everest at this point. Lesson is . . . 1) use the standard plans they are free and are prepared by engineers, 2) get a soils report from the builder if you can, 3) make sure you follow the plans exactly. Best decision I made in my landscaping was to do the retaining walls. Practically doubled the size of my backyard.

One correction to my earlier post. The link was for retaining walls with “level backfill.” I think you are doing it into a slope which would be “sloping backfill.” The plans for that wall are here http://www.sandiego.gov/development-services/industry/pdf/infobulletin/ib222.pdf. Again it only goes to 6ft. My wall is 7ft but is governed by the county and not the city. I know when I built the wall in 2002 the standard plans allowed walls up to 7ft.

[LAAFTERHOURS]

4s – just sent you a private message.

[LAAFTERHOURS]

4s – just sent you a private message.

[LAAFTERHOURS]

4s – just sent you a private message.

[LAAFTERHOURS]

4s – just sent you a private message.

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