[jmrrobbie1]

I tough open question to dive into with lots of suggestions. Fortunately you live in one of the best areas in the world to bike – great weather and miles of paved surfaces.

As you as just getting back into it – would not recommend spending a great deal as your likes/needs may change as you start to put in a few miles. I have grown up bicycling and have gone thru several different phases and more bikes than I can count. Bikes these days are more specific nitch/environment orientated. Road bikes ranging from crits, time trial, triathlons, climbers, distance rides, touring bikes and everything in between. Mtn bikes have even more specific niches these days – downhill, all mtn, single track, race, jump/trick bikes, and endurance rides.

Bike frames and components are geared to match these niches. I would look at more of a touring bike, commuter, or even a nice townie – these will give a little more flexibility for different rides, are general more comfortable too ride, and you can add change wheels/racks for different purposes. Cost can jump significantly when you start getting into the nitch categories and the tech side – a top of the line racing wheel set (yes – just the wheels alone) can cost $4000-6000, and complete racing bikes can climb in excess of $10K … unless you have a set of legs like Lance and race for a living, once over the $2000-3000 range you are getting small increments in performance/feel and are getting more into wt issue where every once and wind/drag coefficent couts… bottom line – it still comes down to the motor and legs. Put Lance on a K-mart $200 bike and he will still drop most on a $ 10K racing rig. Start looking in the $800-1800 range – wheel sets and component group equates to increased price in this range … if you really do plan on riding a few times a week – the difference from the < $800 group will be worth the money. For your needs stay away from the carbon frames – look for a well made steel or alum bike with a carbon fork for comfort/smoothness. There are some gimmick type bikes out there so beware – mostly in the low end mtn bike group… looks cool but not really functional. Bike fit is most critical followed by wheels. Wheels/tires will have the greatness impact on ride quality and feel so sink your $$ into the wheels first. When comparing two complete built bikes – buy the one that fits the best followed by the one with the better wheel set. Visit several local bike stores – do not have the kid out front managing sales and the cash register make the final decision for you – get the mechanic out of the back to come out and fit you first to the bikes your are looking at. All of the main manufactures make a touring/commuter/townie bike: Trek, Cannondale, Specialized, and many others … check some of the websites out such as Bicycling Magazine and bikereview.com. The Trek website is a good all-around starting place - look at either the Trek Portland or 520 for starters. Also check out Specialized's site and click on the “multiroad” section. After you have put some miles in and are ready to upgrade, move from the large company stock manufactures to the smaller independent U.S bike makers. In this last category you get what you pay for – such as the ultimate bikes made at “Moots” … they make touring and commuter bikes too but expect to pay more than most carbon racing bikes.

[jmrrobbie1]

I tough open question to dive into with lots of suggestions. Fortunately you live in one of the best areas in the world to bike – great weather and miles of paved surfaces.

As you as just getting back into it – would not recommend spending a great deal as your likes/needs may change as you start to put in a few miles. I have grown up bicycling and have gone thru several different phases and more bikes than I can count. Bikes these days are more specific nitch/environment orientated. Road bikes ranging from crits, time trial, triathlons, climbers, distance rides, touring bikes and everything in between. Mtn bikes have even more specific niches these days – downhill, all mtn, single track, race, jump/trick bikes, and endurance rides.

Bike frames and components are geared to match these niches. I would look at more of a touring bike, commuter, or even a nice townie – these will give a little more flexibility for different rides, are general more comfortable too ride, and you can add change wheels/racks for different purposes. Cost can jump significantly when you start getting into the nitch categories and the tech side – a top of the line racing wheel set (yes – just the wheels alone) can cost $4000-6000, and complete racing bikes can climb in excess of $10K … unless you have a set of legs like Lance and race for a living, once over the $2000-3000 range you are getting small increments in performance/feel and are getting more into wt issue where every once and wind/drag coefficent couts… bottom line – it still comes down to the motor and legs. Put Lance on a K-mart $200 bike and he will still drop most on a $ 10K racing rig. Start looking in the $800-1800 range – wheel sets and component group equates to increased price in this range … if you really do plan on riding a few times a week – the difference from the < $800 group will be worth the money. For your needs stay away from the carbon frames – look for a well made steel or alum bike with a carbon fork for comfort/smoothness. There are some gimmick type bikes out there so beware – mostly in the low end mtn bike group… looks cool but not really functional. Bike fit is most critical followed by wheels. Wheels/tires will have the greatness impact on ride quality and feel so sink your $$ into the wheels first. When comparing two complete built bikes – buy the one that fits the best followed by the one with the better wheel set. Visit several local bike stores – do not have the kid out front managing sales and the cash register make the final decision for you – get the mechanic out of the back to come out and fit you first to the bikes your are looking at. All of the main manufactures make a touring/commuter/townie bike: Trek, Cannondale, Specialized, and many others … check some of the websites out such as Bicycling Magazine and bikereview.com. The Trek website is a good all-around starting place - look at either the Trek Portland or 520 for starters. Also check out Specialized's site and click on the “multiroad” section. After you have put some miles in and are ready to upgrade, move from the large company stock manufactures to the smaller independent U.S bike makers. In this last category you get what you pay for – such as the ultimate bikes made at “Moots” … they make touring and commuter bikes too but expect to pay more than most carbon racing bikes.

[jmrrobbie1]

I tough open question to dive into with lots of suggestions. Fortunately you live in one of the best areas in the world to bike – great weather and miles of paved surfaces.

As you as just getting back into it – would not recommend spending a great deal as your likes/needs may change as you start to put in a few miles. I have grown up bicycling and have gone thru several different phases and more bikes than I can count. Bikes these days are more specific nitch/environment orientated. Road bikes ranging from crits, time trial, triathlons, climbers, distance rides, touring bikes and everything in between. Mtn bikes have even more specific niches these days – downhill, all mtn, single track, race, jump/trick bikes, and endurance rides.

Bike frames and components are geared to match these niches. I would look at more of a touring bike, commuter, or even a nice townie – these will give a little more flexibility for different rides, are general more comfortable too ride, and you can add change wheels/racks for different purposes. Cost can jump significantly when you start getting into the nitch categories and the tech side – a top of the line racing wheel set (yes – just the wheels alone) can cost $4000-6000, and complete racing bikes can climb in excess of $10K … unless you have a set of legs like Lance and race for a living, once over the $2000-3000 range you are getting small increments in performance/feel and are getting more into wt issue where every once and wind/drag coefficent couts… bottom line – it still comes down to the motor and legs. Put Lance on a K-mart $200 bike and he will still drop most on a $ 10K racing rig. Start looking in the $800-1800 range – wheel sets and component group equates to increased price in this range … if you really do plan on riding a few times a week – the difference from the < $800 group will be worth the money. For your needs stay away from the carbon frames – look for a well made steel or alum bike with a carbon fork for comfort/smoothness. There are some gimmick type bikes out there so beware – mostly in the low end mtn bike group… looks cool but not really functional. Bike fit is most critical followed by wheels. Wheels/tires will have the greatness impact on ride quality and feel so sink your $$ into the wheels first. When comparing two complete built bikes – buy the one that fits the best followed by the one with the better wheel set. Visit several local bike stores – do not have the kid out front managing sales and the cash register make the final decision for you – get the mechanic out of the back to come out and fit you first to the bikes your are looking at. All of the main manufactures make a touring/commuter/townie bike: Trek, Cannondale, Specialized, and many others … check some of the websites out such as Bicycling Magazine and bikereview.com. The Trek website is a good all-around starting place - look at either the Trek Portland or 520 for starters. Also check out Specialized's site and click on the “multiroad” section. After you have put some miles in and are ready to upgrade, move from the large company stock manufactures to the smaller independent U.S bike makers. In this last category you get what you pay for – such as the ultimate bikes made at “Moots” … they make touring and commuter bikes too but expect to pay more than most carbon racing bikes.

[jmrrobbie1]

Good points! There is a percentage of families caught up in this mess that just had bad timing… they were at that place/time in life with family & job that happened to purchased at the wrong time – during the bubble. This is the group more likely to opt for staying in a home. I agree with your view though – it just enslaves the homeowners to keep the mortgage paid and little additional incentive. If I was in that situation I would have to realistically look at other options. The future comp analysis in these areas will be interesting.

[jmrrobbie1]

Good points! There is a percentage of families caught up in this mess that just had bad timing… they were at that place/time in life with family & job that happened to purchased at the wrong time – during the bubble. This is the group more likely to opt for staying in a home. I agree with your view though – it just enslaves the homeowners to keep the mortgage paid and little additional incentive. If I was in that situation I would have to realistically look at other options. The future comp analysis in these areas will be interesting.

[jmrrobbie1]

Good points! There is a percentage of families caught up in this mess that just had bad timing… they were at that place/time in life with family & job that happened to purchased at the wrong time – during the bubble. This is the group more likely to opt for staying in a home. I agree with your view though – it just enslaves the homeowners to keep the mortgage paid and little additional incentive. If I was in that situation I would have to realistically look at other options. The future comp analysis in these areas will be interesting.

[jmrrobbie1]

Good points! There is a percentage of families caught up in this mess that just had bad timing… they were at that place/time in life with family & job that happened to purchased at the wrong time – during the bubble. This is the group more likely to opt for staying in a home. I agree with your view though – it just enslaves the homeowners to keep the mortgage paid and little additional incentive. If I was in that situation I would have to realistically look at other options. The future comp analysis in these areas will be interesting.

[jmrrobbie1]

Good points! There is a percentage of families caught up in this mess that just had bad timing… they were at that place/time in life with family & job that happened to purchased at the wrong time – during the bubble. This is the group more likely to opt for staying in a home. I agree with your view though – it just enslaves the homeowners to keep the mortgage paid and little additional incentive. If I was in that situation I would have to realistically look at other options. The future comp analysis in these areas will be interesting.

[jmrrobbie1]

A very in-depth site for calcs & spreadsheets:

http://www.mtgprofessor.com/calculatorsOriginalMenu.htm

[jmrrobbie1]

A very in-depth site for calcs & spreadsheets:

http://www.mtgprofessor.com/calculatorsOriginalMenu.htm

[jmrrobbie1]

A very in-depth site for calcs & spreadsheets:

http://www.mtgprofessor.com/calculatorsOriginalMenu.htm

[jmrrobbie1]

A very in-depth site for calcs & spreadsheets:

http://www.mtgprofessor.com/calculatorsOriginalMenu.htm

[jmrrobbie1]

A very in-depth site for calcs & spreadsheets:

http://www.mtgprofessor.com/calculatorsOriginalMenu.htm

[jmrrobbie1]

A great(& free) resource for rent vs buy calcs, spreadsheets, and theoretical review of each case scenario can be found at Jack Guttentag’s site …once in the site click on the submenu for calculators … also check his philosophy of rent/buy end points:

http://www.mtgprofessor.com/

J

[jmrrobbie1]

A great(& free) resource for rent vs buy calcs, spreadsheets, and theoretical review of each case scenario can be found at Jack Guttentag’s site …once in the site click on the submenu for calculators … also check his philosophy of rent/buy end points:

http://www.mtgprofessor.com/

J

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