OT – Bike recommendations

[afx114]

I haven’t owned a bike since I was 13, but I’m interested in purchasing one again as an adult. I’m looking for a versatile bike that can be used for both quick trips to the neighborhood store, as well as longer day trips for exercise/exploration/fun. More generally, I’m looking for something that works in both urban and rural (mountain trail) environments. I know that I can spend $100, or I can spend $5000, so I guess my question is: where is the sweet spot?

[Jim Jones]

Sounds like you might be looking for a hybrid bike. I have a trek 7.5fx which is half mountain bike – half road bike and is great when it comes to climbing the hills which are common around my area.

I would say try and look for an aluminum frame and carbon fork combination for the frame.

[Jim Jones]

Sounds like you might be looking for a hybrid bike. I have a trek 7.5fx which is half mountain bike – half road bike and is great when it comes to climbing the hills which are common around my area.

I would say try and look for an aluminum frame and carbon fork combination for the frame.

[Jim Jones]

Sounds like you might be looking for a hybrid bike. I have a trek 7.5fx which is half mountain bike – half road bike and is great when it comes to climbing the hills which are common around my area.

I would say try and look for an aluminum frame and carbon fork combination for the frame.

[Jim Jones]

Sounds like you might be looking for a hybrid bike. I have a trek 7.5fx which is half mountain bike – half road bike and is great when it comes to climbing the hills which are common around my area.

I would say try and look for an aluminum frame and carbon fork combination for the frame.

[Jim Jones]

Sounds like you might be looking for a hybrid bike. I have a trek 7.5fx which is half mountain bike – half road bike and is great when it comes to climbing the hills which are common around my area.

I would say try and look for an aluminum frame and carbon fork combination for the frame.

[jmrrobbie1]

I tough open question to dive into with lots of suggestions. Fortunately you live in one of the best areas in the world to bike – great weather and miles of paved surfaces.

As you as just getting back into it – would not recommend spending a great deal as your likes/needs may change as you start to put in a few miles. I have grown up bicycling and have gone thru several different phases and more bikes than I can count. Bikes these days are more specific nitch/environment orientated. Road bikes ranging from crits, time trial, triathlons, climbers, distance rides, touring bikes and everything in between. Mtn bikes have even more specific niches these days – downhill, all mtn, single track, race, jump/trick bikes, and endurance rides.

Bike frames and components are geared to match these niches. I would look at more of a touring bike, commuter, or even a nice townie – these will give a little more flexibility for different rides, are general more comfortable too ride, and you can add change wheels/racks for different purposes. Cost can jump significantly when you start getting into the nitch categories and the tech side – a top of the line racing wheel set (yes – just the wheels alone) can cost $4000-6000, and complete racing bikes can climb in excess of $10K … unless you have a set of legs like Lance and race for a living, once over the $2000-3000 range you are getting small increments in performance/feel and are getting more into wt issue where every once and wind/drag coefficent couts… bottom line – it still comes down to the motor and legs. Put Lance on a K-mart $200 bike and he will still drop most on a $ 10K racing rig. Start looking in the $800-1800 range – wheel sets and component group equates to increased price in this range … if you really do plan on riding a few times a week – the difference from the < $800 group will be worth the money. For your needs stay away from the carbon frames – look for a well made steel or alum bike with a carbon fork for comfort/smoothness. There are some gimmick type bikes out there so beware – mostly in the low end mtn bike group… looks cool but not really functional. Bike fit is most critical followed by wheels. Wheels/tires will have the greatness impact on ride quality and feel so sink your $$ into the wheels first. When comparing two complete built bikes – buy the one that fits the best followed by the one with the better wheel set. Visit several local bike stores – do not have the kid out front managing sales and the cash register make the final decision for you – get the mechanic out of the back to come out and fit you first to the bikes your are looking at. All of the main manufactures make a touring/commuter/townie bike: Trek, Cannondale, Specialized, and many others … check some of the websites out such as Bicycling Magazine and bikereview.com. The Trek website is a good all-around starting place - look at either the Trek Portland or 520 for starters. Also check out Specialized's site and click on the “multiroad” section. After you have put some miles in and are ready to upgrade, move from the large company stock manufactures to the smaller independent U.S bike makers. In this last category you get what you pay for – such as the ultimate bikes made at “Moots” … they make touring and commuter bikes too but expect to pay more than most carbon racing bikes.

[jmrrobbie1]

I tough open question to dive into with lots of suggestions. Fortunately you live in one of the best areas in the world to bike – great weather and miles of paved surfaces.

As you as just getting back into it – would not recommend spending a great deal as your likes/needs may change as you start to put in a few miles. I have grown up bicycling and have gone thru several different phases and more bikes than I can count. Bikes these days are more specific nitch/environment orientated. Road bikes ranging from crits, time trial, triathlons, climbers, distance rides, touring bikes and everything in between. Mtn bikes have even more specific niches these days – downhill, all mtn, single track, race, jump/trick bikes, and endurance rides.

Bike frames and components are geared to match these niches. I would look at more of a touring bike, commuter, or even a nice townie – these will give a little more flexibility for different rides, are general more comfortable too ride, and you can add change wheels/racks for different purposes. Cost can jump significantly when you start getting into the nitch categories and the tech side – a top of the line racing wheel set (yes – just the wheels alone) can cost $4000-6000, and complete racing bikes can climb in excess of $10K … unless you have a set of legs like Lance and race for a living, once over the $2000-3000 range you are getting small increments in performance/feel and are getting more into wt issue where every once and wind/drag coefficent couts… bottom line – it still comes down to the motor and legs. Put Lance on a K-mart $200 bike and he will still drop most on a $ 10K racing rig. Start looking in the $800-1800 range – wheel sets and component group equates to increased price in this range … if you really do plan on riding a few times a week – the difference from the < $800 group will be worth the money. For your needs stay away from the carbon frames – look for a well made steel or alum bike with a carbon fork for comfort/smoothness. There are some gimmick type bikes out there so beware – mostly in the low end mtn bike group… looks cool but not really functional. Bike fit is most critical followed by wheels. Wheels/tires will have the greatness impact on ride quality and feel so sink your $$ into the wheels first. When comparing two complete built bikes – buy the one that fits the best followed by the one with the better wheel set. Visit several local bike stores – do not have the kid out front managing sales and the cash register make the final decision for you – get the mechanic out of the back to come out and fit you first to the bikes your are looking at. All of the main manufactures make a touring/commuter/townie bike: Trek, Cannondale, Specialized, and many others … check some of the websites out such as Bicycling Magazine and bikereview.com. The Trek website is a good all-around starting place - look at either the Trek Portland or 520 for starters. Also check out Specialized's site and click on the “multiroad” section. After you have put some miles in and are ready to upgrade, move from the large company stock manufactures to the smaller independent U.S bike makers. In this last category you get what you pay for – such as the ultimate bikes made at “Moots” … they make touring and commuter bikes too but expect to pay more than most carbon racing bikes.

[jmrrobbie1]

I tough open question to dive into with lots of suggestions. Fortunately you live in one of the best areas in the world to bike – great weather and miles of paved surfaces.

As you as just getting back into it – would not recommend spending a great deal as your likes/needs may change as you start to put in a few miles. I have grown up bicycling and have gone thru several different phases and more bikes than I can count. Bikes these days are more specific nitch/environment orientated. Road bikes ranging from crits, time trial, triathlons, climbers, distance rides, touring bikes and everything in between. Mtn bikes have even more specific niches these days – downhill, all mtn, single track, race, jump/trick bikes, and endurance rides.

Bike frames and components are geared to match these niches. I would look at more of a touring bike, commuter, or even a nice townie – these will give a little more flexibility for different rides, are general more comfortable too ride, and you can add change wheels/racks for different purposes. Cost can jump significantly when you start getting into the nitch categories and the tech side – a top of the line racing wheel set (yes – just the wheels alone) can cost $4000-6000, and complete racing bikes can climb in excess of $10K … unless you have a set of legs like Lance and race for a living, once over the $2000-3000 range you are getting small increments in performance/feel and are getting more into wt issue where every once and wind/drag coefficent couts… bottom line – it still comes down to the motor and legs. Put Lance on a K-mart $200 bike and he will still drop most on a $ 10K racing rig. Start looking in the $800-1800 range – wheel sets and component group equates to increased price in this range … if you really do plan on riding a few times a week – the difference from the < $800 group will be worth the money. For your needs stay away from the carbon frames – look for a well made steel or alum bike with a carbon fork for comfort/smoothness. There are some gimmick type bikes out there so beware – mostly in the low end mtn bike group… looks cool but not really functional. Bike fit is most critical followed by wheels. Wheels/tires will have the greatness impact on ride quality and feel so sink your $$ into the wheels first. When comparing two complete built bikes – buy the one that fits the best followed by the one with the better wheel set. Visit several local bike stores – do not have the kid out front managing sales and the cash register make the final decision for you – get the mechanic out of the back to come out and fit you first to the bikes your are looking at. All of the main manufactures make a touring/commuter/townie bike: Trek, Cannondale, Specialized, and many others … check some of the websites out such as Bicycling Magazine and bikereview.com. The Trek website is a good all-around starting place - look at either the Trek Portland or 520 for starters. Also check out Specialized's site and click on the “multiroad” section. After you have put some miles in and are ready to upgrade, move from the large company stock manufactures to the smaller independent U.S bike makers. In this last category you get what you pay for – such as the ultimate bikes made at “Moots” … they make touring and commuter bikes too but expect to pay more than most carbon racing bikes.

[jmrrobbie1]

I tough open question to dive into with lots of suggestions. Fortunately you live in one of the best areas in the world to bike – great weather and miles of paved surfaces.

As you as just getting back into it – would not recommend spending a great deal as your likes/needs may change as you start to put in a few miles. I have grown up bicycling and have gone thru several different phases and more bikes than I can count. Bikes these days are more specific nitch/environment orientated. Road bikes ranging from crits, time trial, triathlons, climbers, distance rides, touring bikes and everything in between. Mtn bikes have even more specific niches these days – downhill, all mtn, single track, race, jump/trick bikes, and endurance rides.

Bike frames and components are geared to match these niches. I would look at more of a touring bike, commuter, or even a nice townie – these will give a little more flexibility for different rides, are general more comfortable too ride, and you can add change wheels/racks for different purposes. Cost can jump significantly when you start getting into the nitch categories and the tech side – a top of the line racing wheel set (yes – just the wheels alone) can cost $4000-6000, and complete racing bikes can climb in excess of $10K … unless you have a set of legs like Lance and race for a living, once over the $2000-3000 range you are getting small increments in performance/feel and are getting more into wt issue where every once and wind/drag coefficent couts… bottom line – it still comes down to the motor and legs. Put Lance on a K-mart $200 bike and he will still drop most on a $ 10K racing rig. Start looking in the $800-1800 range – wheel sets and component group equates to increased price in this range … if you really do plan on riding a few times a week – the difference from the < $800 group will be worth the money. For your needs stay away from the carbon frames – look for a well made steel or alum bike with a carbon fork for comfort/smoothness. There are some gimmick type bikes out there so beware – mostly in the low end mtn bike group… looks cool but not really functional. Bike fit is most critical followed by wheels. Wheels/tires will have the greatness impact on ride quality and feel so sink your $$ into the wheels first. When comparing two complete built bikes – buy the one that fits the best followed by the one with the better wheel set. Visit several local bike stores – do not have the kid out front managing sales and the cash register make the final decision for you – get the mechanic out of the back to come out and fit you first to the bikes your are looking at. All of the main manufactures make a touring/commuter/townie bike: Trek, Cannondale, Specialized, and many others … check some of the websites out such as Bicycling Magazine and bikereview.com. The Trek website is a good all-around starting place - look at either the Trek Portland or 520 for starters. Also check out Specialized's site and click on the “multiroad” section. After you have put some miles in and are ready to upgrade, move from the large company stock manufactures to the smaller independent U.S bike makers. In this last category you get what you pay for – such as the ultimate bikes made at “Moots” … they make touring and commuter bikes too but expect to pay more than most carbon racing bikes.

[jmrrobbie1]

I tough open question to dive into with lots of suggestions. Fortunately you live in one of the best areas in the world to bike – great weather and miles of paved surfaces.

As you as just getting back into it – would not recommend spending a great deal as your likes/needs may change as you start to put in a few miles. I have grown up bicycling and have gone thru several different phases and more bikes than I can count. Bikes these days are more specific nitch/environment orientated. Road bikes ranging from crits, time trial, triathlons, climbers, distance rides, touring bikes and everything in between. Mtn bikes have even more specific niches these days – downhill, all mtn, single track, race, jump/trick bikes, and endurance rides.

Bike frames and components are geared to match these niches. I would look at more of a touring bike, commuter, or even a nice townie – these will give a little more flexibility for different rides, are general more comfortable too ride, and you can add change wheels/racks for different purposes. Cost can jump significantly when you start getting into the nitch categories and the tech side – a top of the line racing wheel set (yes – just the wheels alone) can cost $4000-6000, and complete racing bikes can climb in excess of $10K … unless you have a set of legs like Lance and race for a living, once over the $2000-3000 range you are getting small increments in performance/feel and are getting more into wt issue where every once and wind/drag coefficent couts… bottom line – it still comes down to the motor and legs. Put Lance on a K-mart $200 bike and he will still drop most on a $ 10K racing rig. Start looking in the $800-1800 range – wheel sets and component group equates to increased price in this range … if you really do plan on riding a few times a week – the difference from the < $800 group will be worth the money. For your needs stay away from the carbon frames – look for a well made steel or alum bike with a carbon fork for comfort/smoothness. There are some gimmick type bikes out there so beware – mostly in the low end mtn bike group… looks cool but not really functional. Bike fit is most critical followed by wheels. Wheels/tires will have the greatness impact on ride quality and feel so sink your $$ into the wheels first. When comparing two complete built bikes – buy the one that fits the best followed by the one with the better wheel set. Visit several local bike stores – do not have the kid out front managing sales and the cash register make the final decision for you – get the mechanic out of the back to come out and fit you first to the bikes your are looking at. All of the main manufactures make a touring/commuter/townie bike: Trek, Cannondale, Specialized, and many others … check some of the websites out such as Bicycling Magazine and bikereview.com. The Trek website is a good all-around starting place - look at either the Trek Portland or 520 for starters. Also check out Specialized's site and click on the “multiroad” section. After you have put some miles in and are ready to upgrade, move from the large company stock manufactures to the smaller independent U.S bike makers. In this last category you get what you pay for – such as the ultimate bikes made at “Moots” … they make touring and commuter bikes too but expect to pay more than most carbon racing bikes.

[scaredyclassic]

coolest bie company in the unverse;

http://www.rivbike.com

rivendell bicycles.

steel.

no carbon.

personally i bought my bike at a flea market in albqueruqe for 70 7 years ago. and im a bike but. i lvoe that bike.

steel japanese from the 80’s is the cehapest best deal around. ebay.

fuji. nishiki. others..

[scaredyclassic]

coolest bie company in the unverse;

http://www.rivbike.com

rivendell bicycles.

steel.

no carbon.

personally i bought my bike at a flea market in albqueruqe for 70 7 years ago. and im a bike but. i lvoe that bike.

steel japanese from the 80’s is the cehapest best deal around. ebay.

fuji. nishiki. others..

[scaredyclassic]

coolest bie company in the unverse;

http://www.rivbike.com

rivendell bicycles.

steel.

no carbon.

personally i bought my bike at a flea market in albqueruqe for 70 7 years ago. and im a bike but. i lvoe that bike.

steel japanese from the 80’s is the cehapest best deal around. ebay.

fuji. nishiki. others..

[scaredyclassic]

coolest bie company in the unverse;

http://www.rivbike.com

rivendell bicycles.

steel.

no carbon.

personally i bought my bike at a flea market in albqueruqe for 70 7 years ago. and im a bike but. i lvoe that bike.

steel japanese from the 80’s is the cehapest best deal around. ebay.

fuji. nishiki. others..

[Author]

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