[drunkle]

i have a bike built with an electric kit bought online for $250. $80 for the bike (used 90’s vintage trek true temper steel), 250 for the kit… too bad it came incorrectly wired and subsequently fried the moment i connected the battery. i got my money back with a cc charge dispute. i still haven’t gotten around to testing the battery and motor controller for functionality… gas prices came down and the total weight is a lot. a bit inconvenient for climbing texas hill. or stairs.

[drunkle]

i have a bike built with an electric kit bought online for $250. $80 for the bike (used 90’s vintage trek true temper steel), 250 for the kit… too bad it came incorrectly wired and subsequently fried the moment i connected the battery. i got my money back with a cc charge dispute. i still haven’t gotten around to testing the battery and motor controller for functionality… gas prices came down and the total weight is a lot. a bit inconvenient for climbing texas hill. or stairs.

[drunkle]

i have a bike built with an electric kit bought online for $250. $80 for the bike (used 90’s vintage trek true temper steel), 250 for the kit… too bad it came incorrectly wired and subsequently fried the moment i connected the battery. i got my money back with a cc charge dispute. i still haven’t gotten around to testing the battery and motor controller for functionality… gas prices came down and the total weight is a lot. a bit inconvenient for climbing texas hill. or stairs.

[drunkle]

i have a bike built with an electric kit bought online for $250. $80 for the bike (used 90’s vintage trek true temper steel), 250 for the kit… too bad it came incorrectly wired and subsequently fried the moment i connected the battery. i got my money back with a cc charge dispute. i still haven’t gotten around to testing the battery and motor controller for functionality… gas prices came down and the total weight is a lot. a bit inconvenient for climbing texas hill. or stairs.

[drunkle]

i have a bike built with an electric kit bought online for $250. $80 for the bike (used 90’s vintage trek true temper steel), 250 for the kit… too bad it came incorrectly wired and subsequently fried the moment i connected the battery. i got my money back with a cc charge dispute. i still haven’t gotten around to testing the battery and motor controller for functionality… gas prices came down and the total weight is a lot. a bit inconvenient for climbing texas hill. or stairs.

[drunkle]

ignore the steel vs alu vs carbon nonsense. steel rusts, is hard to find quality steel frames and will be more expensive at this point (for new, used quality steel can still be found if you know what you’re doing. i’m assuming you dont.). aluminum fatigues but for your first bike ridden on easy terrain will last longer than you’ll keep it. alu is the standard these days so is cheap, built strong to compensate for fatigue and is still light. hell, you want longevity, get a quality titanium frame. no rust, bomb proof, tastes great, less filling.

[drunkle]

ignore the steel vs alu vs carbon nonsense. steel rusts, is hard to find quality steel frames and will be more expensive at this point (for new, used quality steel can still be found if you know what you’re doing. i’m assuming you dont.). aluminum fatigues but for your first bike ridden on easy terrain will last longer than you’ll keep it. alu is the standard these days so is cheap, built strong to compensate for fatigue and is still light. hell, you want longevity, get a quality titanium frame. no rust, bomb proof, tastes great, less filling.

[drunkle]

ignore the steel vs alu vs carbon nonsense. steel rusts, is hard to find quality steel frames and will be more expensive at this point (for new, used quality steel can still be found if you know what you’re doing. i’m assuming you dont.). aluminum fatigues but for your first bike ridden on easy terrain will last longer than you’ll keep it. alu is the standard these days so is cheap, built strong to compensate for fatigue and is still light. hell, you want longevity, get a quality titanium frame. no rust, bomb proof, tastes great, less filling.

[drunkle]

ignore the steel vs alu vs carbon nonsense. steel rusts, is hard to find quality steel frames and will be more expensive at this point (for new, used quality steel can still be found if you know what you’re doing. i’m assuming you dont.). aluminum fatigues but for your first bike ridden on easy terrain will last longer than you’ll keep it. alu is the standard these days so is cheap, built strong to compensate for fatigue and is still light. hell, you want longevity, get a quality titanium frame. no rust, bomb proof, tastes great, less filling.

[drunkle]

ignore the steel vs alu vs carbon nonsense. steel rusts, is hard to find quality steel frames and will be more expensive at this point (for new, used quality steel can still be found if you know what you’re doing. i’m assuming you dont.). aluminum fatigues but for your first bike ridden on easy terrain will last longer than you’ll keep it. alu is the standard these days so is cheap, built strong to compensate for fatigue and is still light. hell, you want longevity, get a quality titanium frame. no rust, bomb proof, tastes great, less filling.

[drunkle]

“No need for for the hacksaw, either. Just get a $20.00 aftermarket pistol grip and bolt it on. I shoot mine single-handed sometimes, it’s a hoot.”

i would think keeping the shoulder stock would actually be a good thing, particularly for women and nubs like me. just a little trim (or not) depending on how big you are. but an 18″ barrel is still a bit long. i have a stoeger 12g semi 18.5 and it’s unwieldy indoors.

i have a taurus tracker 7 shot 357 that shoots great; the kick is big but not hard… like, my boss’s s&w aluminum frame 9mm auto snaps when it kicks, jerking my wrist pretty good. only issues with the taurus i’m remedying are the stock grip (too fat) and the stock springs (too stiff). best part was, the taurus (used, satin finish) was cheaper than a used stainless gp.

a cz 75 sp steel frame is on my short list of “must have before the world goes boom”. comfortable feel, looks better than 1911, cheaper and great rep.

edit: american shooting center in clairmont sells reload 357 for cheap. boxed .38 is not cheap at all. royal pawn in north park (used to, still does?) sells boxed fmj 357 (focaccia or something brand) for fair cheap.

[drunkle]

“No need for for the hacksaw, either. Just get a $20.00 aftermarket pistol grip and bolt it on. I shoot mine single-handed sometimes, it’s a hoot.”

i would think keeping the shoulder stock would actually be a good thing, particularly for women and nubs like me. just a little trim (or not) depending on how big you are. but an 18″ barrel is still a bit long. i have a stoeger 12g semi 18.5 and it’s unwieldy indoors.

i have a taurus tracker 7 shot 357 that shoots great; the kick is big but not hard… like, my boss’s s&w aluminum frame 9mm auto snaps when it kicks, jerking my wrist pretty good. only issues with the taurus i’m remedying are the stock grip (too fat) and the stock springs (too stiff). best part was, the taurus (used, satin finish) was cheaper than a used stainless gp.

a cz 75 sp steel frame is on my short list of “must have before the world goes boom”. comfortable feel, looks better than 1911, cheaper and great rep.

edit: american shooting center in clairmont sells reload 357 for cheap. boxed .38 is not cheap at all. royal pawn in north park (used to, still does?) sells boxed fmj 357 (focaccia or something brand) for fair cheap.

[drunkle]

“No need for for the hacksaw, either. Just get a $20.00 aftermarket pistol grip and bolt it on. I shoot mine single-handed sometimes, it’s a hoot.”

i would think keeping the shoulder stock would actually be a good thing, particularly for women and nubs like me. just a little trim (or not) depending on how big you are. but an 18″ barrel is still a bit long. i have a stoeger 12g semi 18.5 and it’s unwieldy indoors.

i have a taurus tracker 7 shot 357 that shoots great; the kick is big but not hard… like, my boss’s s&w aluminum frame 9mm auto snaps when it kicks, jerking my wrist pretty good. only issues with the taurus i’m remedying are the stock grip (too fat) and the stock springs (too stiff). best part was, the taurus (used, satin finish) was cheaper than a used stainless gp.

a cz 75 sp steel frame is on my short list of “must have before the world goes boom”. comfortable feel, looks better than 1911, cheaper and great rep.

edit: american shooting center in clairmont sells reload 357 for cheap. boxed .38 is not cheap at all. royal pawn in north park (used to, still does?) sells boxed fmj 357 (focaccia or something brand) for fair cheap.

[drunkle]

“No need for for the hacksaw, either. Just get a $20.00 aftermarket pistol grip and bolt it on. I shoot mine single-handed sometimes, it’s a hoot.”

i would think keeping the shoulder stock would actually be a good thing, particularly for women and nubs like me. just a little trim (or not) depending on how big you are. but an 18″ barrel is still a bit long. i have a stoeger 12g semi 18.5 and it’s unwieldy indoors.

i have a taurus tracker 7 shot 357 that shoots great; the kick is big but not hard… like, my boss’s s&w aluminum frame 9mm auto snaps when it kicks, jerking my wrist pretty good. only issues with the taurus i’m remedying are the stock grip (too fat) and the stock springs (too stiff). best part was, the taurus (used, satin finish) was cheaper than a used stainless gp.

a cz 75 sp steel frame is on my short list of “must have before the world goes boom”. comfortable feel, looks better than 1911, cheaper and great rep.

edit: american shooting center in clairmont sells reload 357 for cheap. boxed .38 is not cheap at all. royal pawn in north park (used to, still does?) sells boxed fmj 357 (focaccia or something brand) for fair cheap.

[drunkle]

“No need for for the hacksaw, either. Just get a $20.00 aftermarket pistol grip and bolt it on. I shoot mine single-handed sometimes, it’s a hoot.”

i would think keeping the shoulder stock would actually be a good thing, particularly for women and nubs like me. just a little trim (or not) depending on how big you are. but an 18″ barrel is still a bit long. i have a stoeger 12g semi 18.5 and it’s unwieldy indoors.

i have a taurus tracker 7 shot 357 that shoots great; the kick is big but not hard… like, my boss’s s&w aluminum frame 9mm auto snaps when it kicks, jerking my wrist pretty good. only issues with the taurus i’m remedying are the stock grip (too fat) and the stock springs (too stiff). best part was, the taurus (used, satin finish) was cheaper than a used stainless gp.

a cz 75 sp steel frame is on my short list of “must have before the world goes boom”. comfortable feel, looks better than 1911, cheaper and great rep.

edit: american shooting center in clairmont sells reload 357 for cheap. boxed .38 is not cheap at all. royal pawn in north park (used to, still does?) sells boxed fmj 357 (focaccia or something brand) for fair cheap.

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