[djrobsd]

Well, I had a traditional Coldwell Banker agent try and sell my home. She charged the full 3% commission and we offered 3% to the buyer’s agent for a total of 6. She did all of this:

-Professional virtual tour with 12 photos – and she hired a guy who charges $400 to do the tour, he brings in lights and everything to make the pictures real professional

-MLS

-Union Tribune

-Open houses (5 in 3 months)

-Broker caravan (1)

-Realtor.com premium listing

-Craigslist

-Email blasts to agents

-Networking with other agents in her office

etc
etc
etc

And of course #2 – Location.. Good location in University Heights….

Did it sell my home? No!

Why? Two problems…. I think because she didn’t encourage me to agressively price my house, and we aimed for the sky, and in the end if I would have just priced it where it’s at now, it probably would have sold, but now it’s stuck and I’m going to be lucky if I don’t end up having to do a short sale or hold onto the place for the next 10 years while I wait for the market to recover. 🙁 Second problem, square footage is way too small, it’s a 2BR 1 bath, but only 650square feet… OOPS!

So, I think what most people are saying on here, price it right, and make sure it shows well, and I think you’ll get er’ sold. For me, I had to let her go, and I hired a 1% agent so I could drop the price another 10k and hopefully get it sold.

[djrobsd]

Well, I had a traditional Coldwell Banker agent try and sell my home. She charged the full 3% commission and we offered 3% to the buyer’s agent for a total of 6. She did all of this:

-Professional virtual tour with 12 photos – and she hired a guy who charges $400 to do the tour, he brings in lights and everything to make the pictures real professional

-MLS

-Union Tribune

-Open houses (5 in 3 months)

-Broker caravan (1)

-Realtor.com premium listing

-Craigslist

-Email blasts to agents

-Networking with other agents in her office

etc
etc
etc

And of course #2 – Location.. Good location in University Heights….

Did it sell my home? No!

Why? Two problems…. I think because she didn’t encourage me to agressively price my house, and we aimed for the sky, and in the end if I would have just priced it where it’s at now, it probably would have sold, but now it’s stuck and I’m going to be lucky if I don’t end up having to do a short sale or hold onto the place for the next 10 years while I wait for the market to recover. 🙁 Second problem, square footage is way too small, it’s a 2BR 1 bath, but only 650square feet… OOPS!

So, I think what most people are saying on here, price it right, and make sure it shows well, and I think you’ll get er’ sold. For me, I had to let her go, and I hired a 1% agent so I could drop the price another 10k and hopefully get it sold.

[djrobsd]

I agree with SDR, I think this is delaying the inevitable, and hopefully preventing a major collapse in our financial system here in America…

I think what a lot of you angry people are not understanding is that our governmen is NOT bailing any one out. We’re not writing a check to these homeowners, or to the banks. It’s a NEGOTIATION that lawmakers and the Fed made with banks to get them to voluntarilly agree to freeze these rates for 5 years. The only people loosing on this deal are the investors who bought the securities in the first place…. And whateve trickle down effect they have… So while you may think this is a government bailout it’s not..

And, with that said, looks like it’s not going to help very many folks, including myself… Says loans had to be originated in 2005, mine was in late 2004, so I’m a day late and a dollar short… LOL Plus, it’s only for SUBPRIME loans, looks like loans in the higher interest rate bracket. My “initial” rate was 5.875, with a reset to 8.875, so I’m assuming I’m not in subprime territory, but who knows, I don’t remember what my credit score was when I bought my house… Oh well, I signed the papers now I have to deal with the consequences.

[djrobsd]

I agree with SDR, I think this is delaying the inevitable, and hopefully preventing a major collapse in our financial system here in America…

I think what a lot of you angry people are not understanding is that our governmen is NOT bailing any one out. We’re not writing a check to these homeowners, or to the banks. It’s a NEGOTIATION that lawmakers and the Fed made with banks to get them to voluntarilly agree to freeze these rates for 5 years. The only people loosing on this deal are the investors who bought the securities in the first place…. And whateve trickle down effect they have… So while you may think this is a government bailout it’s not..

And, with that said, looks like it’s not going to help very many folks, including myself… Says loans had to be originated in 2005, mine was in late 2004, so I’m a day late and a dollar short… LOL Plus, it’s only for SUBPRIME loans, looks like loans in the higher interest rate bracket. My “initial” rate was 5.875, with a reset to 8.875, so I’m assuming I’m not in subprime territory, but who knows, I don’t remember what my credit score was when I bought my house… Oh well, I signed the papers now I have to deal with the consequences.

[djrobsd]

I agree with SDR, I think this is delaying the inevitable, and hopefully preventing a major collapse in our financial system here in America…

I think what a lot of you angry people are not understanding is that our governmen is NOT bailing any one out. We’re not writing a check to these homeowners, or to the banks. It’s a NEGOTIATION that lawmakers and the Fed made with banks to get them to voluntarilly agree to freeze these rates for 5 years. The only people loosing on this deal are the investors who bought the securities in the first place…. And whateve trickle down effect they have… So while you may think this is a government bailout it’s not..

And, with that said, looks like it’s not going to help very many folks, including myself… Says loans had to be originated in 2005, mine was in late 2004, so I’m a day late and a dollar short… LOL Plus, it’s only for SUBPRIME loans, looks like loans in the higher interest rate bracket. My “initial” rate was 5.875, with a reset to 8.875, so I’m assuming I’m not in subprime territory, but who knows, I don’t remember what my credit score was when I bought my house… Oh well, I signed the papers now I have to deal with the consequences.

[djrobsd]

I agree with SDR, I think this is delaying the inevitable, and hopefully preventing a major collapse in our financial system here in America…

I think what a lot of you angry people are not understanding is that our governmen is NOT bailing any one out. We’re not writing a check to these homeowners, or to the banks. It’s a NEGOTIATION that lawmakers and the Fed made with banks to get them to voluntarilly agree to freeze these rates for 5 years. The only people loosing on this deal are the investors who bought the securities in the first place…. And whateve trickle down effect they have… So while you may think this is a government bailout it’s not..

And, with that said, looks like it’s not going to help very many folks, including myself… Says loans had to be originated in 2005, mine was in late 2004, so I’m a day late and a dollar short… LOL Plus, it’s only for SUBPRIME loans, looks like loans in the higher interest rate bracket. My “initial” rate was 5.875, with a reset to 8.875, so I’m assuming I’m not in subprime territory, but who knows, I don’t remember what my credit score was when I bought my house… Oh well, I signed the papers now I have to deal with the consequences.

[djrobsd]

I agree with SDR, I think this is delaying the inevitable, and hopefully preventing a major collapse in our financial system here in America…

I think what a lot of you angry people are not understanding is that our governmen is NOT bailing any one out. We’re not writing a check to these homeowners, or to the banks. It’s a NEGOTIATION that lawmakers and the Fed made with banks to get them to voluntarilly agree to freeze these rates for 5 years. The only people loosing on this deal are the investors who bought the securities in the first place…. And whateve trickle down effect they have… So while you may think this is a government bailout it’s not..

And, with that said, looks like it’s not going to help very many folks, including myself… Says loans had to be originated in 2005, mine was in late 2004, so I’m a day late and a dollar short… LOL Plus, it’s only for SUBPRIME loans, looks like loans in the higher interest rate bracket. My “initial” rate was 5.875, with a reset to 8.875, so I’m assuming I’m not in subprime territory, but who knows, I don’t remember what my credit score was when I bought my house… Oh well, I signed the papers now I have to deal with the consequences.

[djrobsd]

Which mazda did u get??!!

[djrobsd]

Which mazda did u get??!!

[djrobsd]

Which mazda did u get??!!

[djrobsd]

Which mazda did u get??!!

[djrobsd]

Which mazda did u get??!!

[djrobsd]

Whatever you do, resist the temptation to buy new. You’ll lose 10-20% the minute you drive it past the curb of the dealership…

I highly recommend looking at a 1-2 year old used model, with low miles, in the certified pre-owned category, every car dealer has a CPO program most come with 100,000 mile warranties including: Toyota, Ford, BMW, Lexus, etc….

Save the depreciation, buy used! Don’t get the GAP coverage (you can buy it online for half the price the delaer charges), DO NOT GET THE CREDIT PROTECTION OR THE LIFE INSURANCE, NO PERMA PLATING OR CLEAR COATING … LOL

Don’t finance it through the dealer, line up your own financing before you go in there…. I don’t think you can put the whole thing on a credit card…

And…. Last but not least, if you do buy new, use a car buying service (they’re free) like Edmunds to help you negotiate the best deal. Pitt the dealers against each other to negotiate the lowest price.

I usually shoot for Invoice… but sometimes you can buy below…

And whatever you do, DONT TRADE YOUR CAR IN, sell it privately.

[djrobsd]

Whatever you do, resist the temptation to buy new. You’ll lose 10-20% the minute you drive it past the curb of the dealership…

I highly recommend looking at a 1-2 year old used model, with low miles, in the certified pre-owned category, every car dealer has a CPO program most come with 100,000 mile warranties including: Toyota, Ford, BMW, Lexus, etc….

Save the depreciation, buy used! Don’t get the GAP coverage (you can buy it online for half the price the delaer charges), DO NOT GET THE CREDIT PROTECTION OR THE LIFE INSURANCE, NO PERMA PLATING OR CLEAR COATING … LOL

Don’t finance it through the dealer, line up your own financing before you go in there…. I don’t think you can put the whole thing on a credit card…

And…. Last but not least, if you do buy new, use a car buying service (they’re free) like Edmunds to help you negotiate the best deal. Pitt the dealers against each other to negotiate the lowest price.

I usually shoot for Invoice… but sometimes you can buy below…

And whatever you do, DONT TRADE YOUR CAR IN, sell it privately.

[djrobsd]

Whatever you do, resist the temptation to buy new. You’ll lose 10-20% the minute you drive it past the curb of the dealership…

I highly recommend looking at a 1-2 year old used model, with low miles, in the certified pre-owned category, every car dealer has a CPO program most come with 100,000 mile warranties including: Toyota, Ford, BMW, Lexus, etc….

Save the depreciation, buy used! Don’t get the GAP coverage (you can buy it online for half the price the delaer charges), DO NOT GET THE CREDIT PROTECTION OR THE LIFE INSURANCE, NO PERMA PLATING OR CLEAR COATING … LOL

Don’t finance it through the dealer, line up your own financing before you go in there…. I don’t think you can put the whole thing on a credit card…

And…. Last but not least, if you do buy new, use a car buying service (they’re free) like Edmunds to help you negotiate the best deal. Pitt the dealers against each other to negotiate the lowest price.

I usually shoot for Invoice… but sometimes you can buy below…

And whatever you do, DONT TRADE YOUR CAR IN, sell it privately.

[Author]

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