[cooperthedog]

Here are my thoughts, take them for what you will.

Determine what timeframe you are investing for. Are you looking to make short term trades or hold for months? The ideal risk/reward entry points into shorting financials and builders has passed, but trading can be profitable, though you will have to accept more risk, volatility, etc.

As someone mentioned above, preserving capital is very important. Use predetermined loss points and stick to them, and use trailing stops to (hopefully) let your profits run & lock in gains.

Large drawdowns can cripple your portfolio. Leverage and volatile investments magnify this affect. Large losses are also exponentially harder to recover from:

10% loss requires a subsequent 11% gain
20% -> 25%
30% -> 43%
40% -> 67%
50% -> 100%

SRS, SKF, & SCC are all ultra bear funds, which means they are internally leveraged (using derivatives to attempt to perform 2x the inverse of the underlying). These can be excellent tools if used appropriately, but placing too large of a chunk of your portfolio into these is risky. Even though they are “diversified” in that they track an index, they are considerably more volatile than broad-based ETF’s that track large sections of the market (e.g. SPY). Be prepared for large gaps overnight.

As has been noted before, financials and builders may have more room to slide but aren’t ideal for non-traders at this point.

The next sector to potentially take a hit is the consumers, and I agree with the poster above that it is still relatively early on these. SCC trades very thinly, so I would avoid that for now.

If we assume that the housing mess coupled with the inability to extract equity will cause consumers to tighten up, which consumer stocks are the most vulnerable? I would stay away from the value side, such as the Walmart’s & Costco’s and would focus on the “faux-luxury” stocks like COH, TIF, NORD, GES, etc.

Best of luck.

[cooperthedog]

Here are my thoughts, take them for what you will.

Determine what timeframe you are investing for. Are you looking to make short term trades or hold for months? The ideal risk/reward entry points into shorting financials and builders has passed, but trading can be profitable, though you will have to accept more risk, volatility, etc.

As someone mentioned above, preserving capital is very important. Use predetermined loss points and stick to them, and use trailing stops to (hopefully) let your profits run & lock in gains.

Large drawdowns can cripple your portfolio. Leverage and volatile investments magnify this affect. Large losses are also exponentially harder to recover from:

10% loss requires a subsequent 11% gain
20% -> 25%
30% -> 43%
40% -> 67%
50% -> 100%

SRS, SKF, & SCC are all ultra bear funds, which means they are internally leveraged (using derivatives to attempt to perform 2x the inverse of the underlying). These can be excellent tools if used appropriately, but placing too large of a chunk of your portfolio into these is risky. Even though they are “diversified” in that they track an index, they are considerably more volatile than broad-based ETF’s that track large sections of the market (e.g. SPY). Be prepared for large gaps overnight.

As has been noted before, financials and builders may have more room to slide but aren’t ideal for non-traders at this point.

The next sector to potentially take a hit is the consumers, and I agree with the poster above that it is still relatively early on these. SCC trades very thinly, so I would avoid that for now.

If we assume that the housing mess coupled with the inability to extract equity will cause consumers to tighten up, which consumer stocks are the most vulnerable? I would stay away from the value side, such as the Walmart’s & Costco’s and would focus on the “faux-luxury” stocks like COH, TIF, NORD, GES, etc.

Best of luck.

[cooperthedog]

Here are my thoughts, take them for what you will.

Determine what timeframe you are investing for. Are you looking to make short term trades or hold for months? The ideal risk/reward entry points into shorting financials and builders has passed, but trading can be profitable, though you will have to accept more risk, volatility, etc.

As someone mentioned above, preserving capital is very important. Use predetermined loss points and stick to them, and use trailing stops to (hopefully) let your profits run & lock in gains.

Large drawdowns can cripple your portfolio. Leverage and volatile investments magnify this affect. Large losses are also exponentially harder to recover from:

10% loss requires a subsequent 11% gain
20% -> 25%
30% -> 43%
40% -> 67%
50% -> 100%

SRS, SKF, & SCC are all ultra bear funds, which means they are internally leveraged (using derivatives to attempt to perform 2x the inverse of the underlying). These can be excellent tools if used appropriately, but placing too large of a chunk of your portfolio into these is risky. Even though they are “diversified” in that they track an index, they are considerably more volatile than broad-based ETF’s that track large sections of the market (e.g. SPY). Be prepared for large gaps overnight.

As has been noted before, financials and builders may have more room to slide but aren’t ideal for non-traders at this point.

The next sector to potentially take a hit is the consumers, and I agree with the poster above that it is still relatively early on these. SCC trades very thinly, so I would avoid that for now.

If we assume that the housing mess coupled with the inability to extract equity will cause consumers to tighten up, which consumer stocks are the most vulnerable? I would stay away from the value side, such as the Walmart’s & Costco’s and would focus on the “faux-luxury” stocks like COH, TIF, NORD, GES, etc.

Best of luck.

[cooperthedog]

Here are my thoughts, take them for what you will.

Determine what timeframe you are investing for. Are you looking to make short term trades or hold for months? The ideal risk/reward entry points into shorting financials and builders has passed, but trading can be profitable, though you will have to accept more risk, volatility, etc.

As someone mentioned above, preserving capital is very important. Use predetermined loss points and stick to them, and use trailing stops to (hopefully) let your profits run & lock in gains.

Large drawdowns can cripple your portfolio. Leverage and volatile investments magnify this affect. Large losses are also exponentially harder to recover from:

10% loss requires a subsequent 11% gain
20% -> 25%
30% -> 43%
40% -> 67%
50% -> 100%

SRS, SKF, & SCC are all ultra bear funds, which means they are internally leveraged (using derivatives to attempt to perform 2x the inverse of the underlying). These can be excellent tools if used appropriately, but placing too large of a chunk of your portfolio into these is risky. Even though they are “diversified” in that they track an index, they are considerably more volatile than broad-based ETF’s that track large sections of the market (e.g. SPY). Be prepared for large gaps overnight.

As has been noted before, financials and builders may have more room to slide but aren’t ideal for non-traders at this point.

The next sector to potentially take a hit is the consumers, and I agree with the poster above that it is still relatively early on these. SCC trades very thinly, so I would avoid that for now.

If we assume that the housing mess coupled with the inability to extract equity will cause consumers to tighten up, which consumer stocks are the most vulnerable? I would stay away from the value side, such as the Walmart’s & Costco’s and would focus on the “faux-luxury” stocks like COH, TIF, NORD, GES, etc.

Best of luck.

[cooperthedog]

Here are my thoughts, take them for what you will.

Determine what timeframe you are investing for. Are you looking to make short term trades or hold for months? The ideal risk/reward entry points into shorting financials and builders has passed, but trading can be profitable, though you will have to accept more risk, volatility, etc.

As someone mentioned above, preserving capital is very important. Use predetermined loss points and stick to them, and use trailing stops to (hopefully) let your profits run & lock in gains.

Large drawdowns can cripple your portfolio. Leverage and volatile investments magnify this affect. Large losses are also exponentially harder to recover from:

10% loss requires a subsequent 11% gain
20% -> 25%
30% -> 43%
40% -> 67%
50% -> 100%

SRS, SKF, & SCC are all ultra bear funds, which means they are internally leveraged (using derivatives to attempt to perform 2x the inverse of the underlying). These can be excellent tools if used appropriately, but placing too large of a chunk of your portfolio into these is risky. Even though they are “diversified” in that they track an index, they are considerably more volatile than broad-based ETF’s that track large sections of the market (e.g. SPY). Be prepared for large gaps overnight.

As has been noted before, financials and builders may have more room to slide but aren’t ideal for non-traders at this point.

The next sector to potentially take a hit is the consumers, and I agree with the poster above that it is still relatively early on these. SCC trades very thinly, so I would avoid that for now.

If we assume that the housing mess coupled with the inability to extract equity will cause consumers to tighten up, which consumer stocks are the most vulnerable? I would stay away from the value side, such as the Walmart’s & Costco’s and would focus on the “faux-luxury” stocks like COH, TIF, NORD, GES, etc.

Best of luck.

[cooperthedog]

Marion,

Lets assume you meet mr. right and you now have that critical joint-checking account… at some point in the future your new husband wants to settle down and buy a house, since you state that you will NEVER buy a house with a man again, how does this proceed?

1) Buy adjoining condos, or a duplex, using money from your separate accounts & knock out a common wall.

2) Use his accounts to secure the loan, but make sure the deed is joint-tentants…

If he already owns a house, do you require joint ownership, is this a “deal-breaker” too, and if so, would you be willing to put yourself on the mortgage (assume the current housing market).

Just curious.

[cooperthedog]

Marion,

Lets assume you meet mr. right and you now have that critical joint-checking account… at some point in the future your new husband wants to settle down and buy a house, since you state that you will NEVER buy a house with a man again, how does this proceed?

1) Buy adjoining condos, or a duplex, using money from your separate accounts & knock out a common wall.

2) Use his accounts to secure the loan, but make sure the deed is joint-tentants…

If he already owns a house, do you require joint ownership, is this a “deal-breaker” too, and if so, would you be willing to put yourself on the mortgage (assume the current housing market).

Just curious.

[cooperthedog]

Marion,

Lets assume you meet mr. right and you now have that critical joint-checking account… at some point in the future your new husband wants to settle down and buy a house, since you state that you will NEVER buy a house with a man again, how does this proceed?

1) Buy adjoining condos, or a duplex, using money from your separate accounts & knock out a common wall.

2) Use his accounts to secure the loan, but make sure the deed is joint-tentants…

If he already owns a house, do you require joint ownership, is this a “deal-breaker” too, and if so, would you be willing to put yourself on the mortgage (assume the current housing market).

Just curious.

[cooperthedog]

Marion,

Lets assume you meet mr. right and you now have that critical joint-checking account… at some point in the future your new husband wants to settle down and buy a house, since you state that you will NEVER buy a house with a man again, how does this proceed?

1) Buy adjoining condos, or a duplex, using money from your separate accounts & knock out a common wall.

2) Use his accounts to secure the loan, but make sure the deed is joint-tentants…

If he already owns a house, do you require joint ownership, is this a “deal-breaker” too, and if so, would you be willing to put yourself on the mortgage (assume the current housing market).

Just curious.

[cooperthedog]

Marion,

Lets assume you meet mr. right and you now have that critical joint-checking account… at some point in the future your new husband wants to settle down and buy a house, since you state that you will NEVER buy a house with a man again, how does this proceed?

1) Buy adjoining condos, or a duplex, using money from your separate accounts & knock out a common wall.

2) Use his accounts to secure the loan, but make sure the deed is joint-tentants…

If he already owns a house, do you require joint ownership, is this a “deal-breaker” too, and if so, would you be willing to put yourself on the mortgage (assume the current housing market).

Just curious.

[cooperthedog]

I assume you want the lowest rate and fees possible? If so, I would listen HLS and go with a broker vs. the retail arm of a large bank.

I would contact several brokers (such as the personal recommendations given above) and get a GFE from each, on the *same day* (to compare rates). Request par rates (no points), and compare using APR in relation to fees listed in the 800 block (these fees are related to the broker, vs. third party fees).

Also, a lower rate and higher fees may give a “low” APR, but if you don’t hold the loan to term (e.g. 30 years), your true APR could be much higher. Also, a “no-cost” loan generally means you are paying the fees in the rate – no free lunch…

[cooperthedog]

I assume you want the lowest rate and fees possible? If so, I would listen HLS and go with a broker vs. the retail arm of a large bank.

I would contact several brokers (such as the personal recommendations given above) and get a GFE from each, on the *same day* (to compare rates). Request par rates (no points), and compare using APR in relation to fees listed in the 800 block (these fees are related to the broker, vs. third party fees).

Also, a lower rate and higher fees may give a “low” APR, but if you don’t hold the loan to term (e.g. 30 years), your true APR could be much higher. Also, a “no-cost” loan generally means you are paying the fees in the rate – no free lunch…

[cooperthedog]

I assume you want the lowest rate and fees possible? If so, I would listen HLS and go with a broker vs. the retail arm of a large bank.

I would contact several brokers (such as the personal recommendations given above) and get a GFE from each, on the *same day* (to compare rates). Request par rates (no points), and compare using APR in relation to fees listed in the 800 block (these fees are related to the broker, vs. third party fees).

Also, a lower rate and higher fees may give a “low” APR, but if you don’t hold the loan to term (e.g. 30 years), your true APR could be much higher. Also, a “no-cost” loan generally means you are paying the fees in the rate – no free lunch…

[cooperthedog]

I assume you want the lowest rate and fees possible? If so, I would listen HLS and go with a broker vs. the retail arm of a large bank.

I would contact several brokers (such as the personal recommendations given above) and get a GFE from each, on the *same day* (to compare rates). Request par rates (no points), and compare using APR in relation to fees listed in the 800 block (these fees are related to the broker, vs. third party fees).

Also, a lower rate and higher fees may give a “low” APR, but if you don’t hold the loan to term (e.g. 30 years), your true APR could be much higher. Also, a “no-cost” loan generally means you are paying the fees in the rate – no free lunch…

[cooperthedog]

I assume you want the lowest rate and fees possible? If so, I would listen HLS and go with a broker vs. the retail arm of a large bank.

I would contact several brokers (such as the personal recommendations given above) and get a GFE from each, on the *same day* (to compare rates). Request par rates (no points), and compare using APR in relation to fees listed in the 800 block (these fees are related to the broker, vs. third party fees).

Also, a lower rate and higher fees may give a “low” APR, but if you don’t hold the loan to term (e.g. 30 years), your true APR could be much higher. Also, a “no-cost” loan generally means you are paying the fees in the rate – no free lunch…

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