OT: length of lifetime for different decades built houses

[Scarlett]

More to the point, if I buy today a house in San Diego built in early 1960s, one built in late 70s, one built in 1980s, ohe build in 1990, which one is supposed to last longer and better?

What was used in construction of the houses here in different decades?

We are looking at long term residence of 40+ years from today. I’d rather buy something that lasts and can be passed on – or at least lived in for many years after we pass away… (if there is such a thing here anymore).

[ucodegen]

Best that I can remember the diffs.

1960’s

[ucodegen]

Best that I can remember the diffs.

1960’s

May need earthquake retro.

Old wiring.

Probably galvanized piping instead of copper (can get plugged up with calcium salts)

Watch out for work where both copper and galvanized is used (dissimilar metals create galvanic action which corrodes the pipe)

Possibly real roughsawn 2x4s

Possibly Lath and Plaster vs wallboard (quieter house, improves insulation).

Fiberglass insulation standards are not a good.

1970’s late

Some earthquake retro may be needed.

Switch from Lath & Plaster to wallboard.

Construction started switching over to copper piping, watch out for flexible plastic plumbing – it was at its infancy and had problems. Type often used was polybutylene(PB)

2x4s no longer 2″ by 4″.

Slight insulation requirement improvement, windows still a problem

Start of large scale housing dev, keep an eye on manufacturer defect patterns on developments

1980s

Earthquake retro needs may be limited to how waterheaters are mounted etc.

Large scale housing dev, keep an eye on manufacturer defect patterns on developments.

Because of problems of PEX plumbing, fewer manufacturers used it from this point on. Watch out for ‘do-it-yourself-ers’ though.

Shear-walls went from angled 1x12s to 4×8 plywood sheets, particularly on lower floors of multi-story. Significant improvement on rigidity/shear strength/earthquake resistance

Starting to see pre-stressed concrete garage floors, prevents cracks but do not drill into them.

1990s

Start of ‘imported’ cheaper labor – with all that it brings.

Large scale housing dev, keep an eye on manufacturer defect patterns on developments.

Improved insulation requirements.

Almost entire outside of house is now ‘wrapped’ as a shear-wall.

Pre-stressed concrete garage floors, prevents cracks but do not drill into them.

Improvements in flexible plastic plumbing. Transition to Cross-linked polyethylene (PEX). One advantage of plastic plumbing is that it is more resistant to breakage under freezing conditions. On the other hand, doing it right is an issue – too many amateurs.

More info on Polybutylene(PB) plumbing:

Polybutylene has been involved in several major class action settlements.

Over a billion dollars has been paid from settlement funds.

Some hazard insurance companies will no longer insure homes piped with this product.

Some home warranty companies exclude PB leaks from coverage

There is more.. but gotta get working on some other stuff right now..

[ucodegen]

Best that I can remember the diffs.

1960’s

May need earthquake retro.

Old wiring.

Probably galvanized piping instead of copper (can get plugged up with calcium salts)

Watch out for work where both copper and galvanized is used (dissimilar metals create galvanic action which corrodes the pipe)

Possibly real roughsawn 2x4s

Possibly Lath and Plaster vs wallboard (quieter house, improves insulation).

Fiberglass insulation standards are not a good.

1970’s late

Some earthquake retro may be needed.

Switch from Lath & Plaster to wallboard.

Construction started switching over to copper piping, watch out for flexible plastic plumbing – it was at its infancy and had problems. Type often used was polybutylene(PB)

2x4s no longer 2″ by 4″.

Slight insulation requirement improvement, windows still a problem

Start of large scale housing dev, keep an eye on manufacturer defect patterns on developments

1980s

Earthquake retro needs may be limited to how waterheaters are mounted etc.

Large scale housing dev, keep an eye on manufacturer defect patterns on developments.

Because of problems of PEX plumbing, fewer manufacturers used it from this point on. Watch out for ‘do-it-yourself-ers’ though.

Shear-walls went from angled 1x12s to 4×8 plywood sheets, particularly on lower floors of multi-story. Significant improvement on rigidity/shear strength/earthquake resistance

Starting to see pre-stressed concrete garage floors, prevents cracks but do not drill into them.

1990s

Start of ‘imported’ cheaper labor – with all that it brings.

Large scale housing dev, keep an eye on manufacturer defect patterns on developments.

Improved insulation requirements.

Almost entire outside of house is now ‘wrapped’ as a shear-wall.

Pre-stressed concrete garage floors, prevents cracks but do not drill into them.

Improvements in flexible plastic plumbing. Transition to Cross-linked polyethylene (PEX). One advantage of plastic plumbing is that it is more resistant to breakage under freezing conditions. On the other hand, doing it right is an issue – too many amateurs.

More info on Polybutylene(PB) plumbing:

Polybutylene has been involved in several major class action settlements.

Over a billion dollars has been paid from settlement funds.

Some hazard insurance companies will no longer insure homes piped with this product.

Some home warranty companies exclude PB leaks from coverage

There is more.. but gotta get working on some other stuff right now..

[ucodegen]

Best that I can remember the diffs.

1960’s

May need earthquake retro.

Old wiring.

Probably galvanized piping instead of copper (can get plugged up with calcium salts)

Watch out for work where both copper and galvanized is used (dissimilar metals create galvanic action which corrodes the pipe)

Possibly real roughsawn 2x4s

Possibly Lath and Plaster vs wallboard (quieter house, improves insulation).

Fiberglass insulation standards are not a good.

1970’s late

Some earthquake retro may be needed.

Switch from Lath & Plaster to wallboard.

Construction started switching over to copper piping, watch out for flexible plastic plumbing – it was at its infancy and had problems. Type often used was polybutylene(PB)

2x4s no longer 2″ by 4″.

Slight insulation requirement improvement, windows still a problem

Start of large scale housing dev, keep an eye on manufacturer defect patterns on developments

1980s

Earthquake retro needs may be limited to how waterheaters are mounted etc.

Large scale housing dev, keep an eye on manufacturer defect patterns on developments.

Because of problems of PEX plumbing, fewer manufacturers used it from this point on. Watch out for ‘do-it-yourself-ers’ though.

Shear-walls went from angled 1x12s to 4×8 plywood sheets, particularly on lower floors of multi-story. Significant improvement on rigidity/shear strength/earthquake resistance

Starting to see pre-stressed concrete garage floors, prevents cracks but do not drill into them.

1990s

Start of ‘imported’ cheaper labor – with all that it brings.

Large scale housing dev, keep an eye on manufacturer defect patterns on developments.

Improved insulation requirements.

Almost entire outside of house is now ‘wrapped’ as a shear-wall.

Pre-stressed concrete garage floors, prevents cracks but do not drill into them.

Improvements in flexible plastic plumbing. Transition to Cross-linked polyethylene (PEX). One advantage of plastic plumbing is that it is more resistant to breakage under freezing conditions. On the other hand, doing it right is an issue – too many amateurs.

More info on Polybutylene(PB) plumbing:

Polybutylene has been involved in several major class action settlements.

Over a billion dollars has been paid from settlement funds.

Some hazard insurance companies will no longer insure homes piped with this product.

Some home warranty companies exclude PB leaks from coverage

There is more.. but gotta get working on some other stuff right now..

[ucodegen]

Best that I can remember the diffs.

1960’s

May need earthquake retro.

Old wiring.

Probably galvanized piping instead of copper (can get plugged up with calcium salts)

Watch out for work where both copper and galvanized is used (dissimilar metals create galvanic action which corrodes the pipe)

Possibly real roughsawn 2x4s

Possibly Lath and Plaster vs wallboard (quieter house, improves insulation).

Fiberglass insulation standards are not a good.

1970’s late

Some earthquake retro may be needed.

Switch from Lath & Plaster to wallboard.

Construction started switching over to copper piping, watch out for flexible plastic plumbing – it was at its infancy and had problems. Type often used was polybutylene(PB)

2x4s no longer 2″ by 4″.

Slight insulation requirement improvement, windows still a problem

Start of large scale housing dev, keep an eye on manufacturer defect patterns on developments

1980s

Earthquake retro needs may be limited to how waterheaters are mounted etc.

Large scale housing dev, keep an eye on manufacturer defect patterns on developments.

Because of problems of PEX plumbing, fewer manufacturers used it from this point on. Watch out for ‘do-it-yourself-ers’ though.

Shear-walls went from angled 1x12s to 4×8 plywood sheets, particularly on lower floors of multi-story. Significant improvement on rigidity/shear strength/earthquake resistance

Starting to see pre-stressed concrete garage floors, prevents cracks but do not drill into them.

1990s

Start of ‘imported’ cheaper labor – with all that it brings.

Large scale housing dev, keep an eye on manufacturer defect patterns on developments.

Improved insulation requirements.

Almost entire outside of house is now ‘wrapped’ as a shear-wall.

Pre-stressed concrete garage floors, prevents cracks but do not drill into them.

Improvements in flexible plastic plumbing. Transition to Cross-linked polyethylene (PEX). One advantage of plastic plumbing is that it is more resistant to breakage under freezing conditions. On the other hand, doing it right is an issue – too many amateurs.

More info on Polybutylene(PB) plumbing:

Polybutylene has been involved in several major class action settlements.

Over a billion dollars has been paid from settlement funds.

Some hazard insurance companies will no longer insure homes piped with this product.

Some home warranty companies exclude PB leaks from coverage

There is more.. but gotta get working on some other stuff right now..

[bearishgurl]

For a whole host of reasons, I believe the healthiest to live in and best-built houses in SD County were those built prior to 1950. That said, Scarlett, the areas you are looking to buy in don’t have this type of inventory.

On slab foundation, my preferences are as follows:

My first choice would be an early 60’s house with a wide covered front porch and covered back patio with one or two 5 or 6 ft patio doors (facing the same direction) leading out to it. This home would be oriented towards the backyard and have 0-2 small windows facing the street. I prefer a very wide (flagstone or travertine) foyer with a step-down living/dining area, brass intercom system still working and wall-vacuum originally installed. This particular type of home is not in your price range, unless you are willing to do substantial work on it. The garage could be attached or detached. Lot should be 7500 to 22,000 sf. Stay away from homes without even a partial attic. One bathroom big enough for a 7′ two-sink vanity, if not already there.

My second choice would be a 90’s house with rounded corner bead used on its drywall, perhaps use of an archway or two, double-paned windows already installed and built-in appls (even if old). I would NOT buy a property with more than one clerestory window or a vaulted ceiling more than 10′ at its highest point (HUGE waste of heat). Properly installed dbl-paned skylights okay. Rollout skylight okay in bathroom. 2+ car garage attached. One-story preferred on 6000 to 9000 sf lot. One bathroom big enough for a 7′ two-sink vanity, if not already there.

I wouldn’t buy a property built in the late seventies and eighties because SD County properties had several “construction issues” during this era and City/County officials were issuing bulk permits to developers so fast and furious from ’84 to ’90 that they didn’t have the personnel to oversee each building segment properly. PBT plumbing was commonly used in subdivisions (and later only partially replaced with copper by many property owners who later rec’d a settlement from the class-action suit). More than half the affected owners spent their 1994 PBT settlement proceeds on something other than plumbing. In addition, any cedar shake roofs still existing today may now be uninsurable. Even if a fire ins binder could be obtained in escrow on a property with shake roof, the homeowner will generally have less than a year to replace the roof (a $15-$30K job) in order not to be non-renewed. Accoustical “popcorn” ceiling in some or all rooms may need to be removed prior to move-in (messy (if not done before move-in) and expensive (if you don’t do it yourself). Beaten up wall heaters may need to be replaced with furnaces. The property may not have any insulation and little/no attic space.

The “best built,” IMO, is the late ’50’s/60’s house. Yes, even though garages were built with cedar/redwood planks :=]

[bearishgurl]

For a whole host of reasons, I believe the healthiest to live in and best-built houses in SD County were those built prior to 1950. That said, Scarlett, the areas you are looking to buy in don’t have this type of inventory.

On slab foundation, my preferences are as follows:

My first choice would be an early 60’s house with a wide covered front porch and covered back patio with one or two 5 or 6 ft patio doors (facing the same direction) leading out to it. This home would be oriented towards the backyard and have 0-2 small windows facing the street. I prefer a very wide (flagstone or travertine) foyer with a step-down living/dining area, brass intercom system still working and wall-vacuum originally installed. This particular type of home is not in your price range, unless you are willing to do substantial work on it. The garage could be attached or detached. Lot should be 7500 to 22,000 sf. Stay away from homes without even a partial attic. One bathroom big enough for a 7′ two-sink vanity, if not already there.

My second choice would be a 90’s house with rounded corner bead used on its drywall, perhaps use of an archway or two, double-paned windows already installed and built-in appls (even if old). I would NOT buy a property with more than one clerestory window or a vaulted ceiling more than 10′ at its highest point (HUGE waste of heat). Properly installed dbl-paned skylights okay. Rollout skylight okay in bathroom. 2+ car garage attached. One-story preferred on 6000 to 9000 sf lot. One bathroom big enough for a 7′ two-sink vanity, if not already there.

I wouldn’t buy a property built in the late seventies and eighties because SD County properties had several “construction issues” during this era and City/County officials were issuing bulk permits to developers so fast and furious from ’84 to ’90 that they didn’t have the personnel to oversee each building segment properly. PBT plumbing was commonly used in subdivisions (and later only partially replaced with copper by many property owners who later rec’d a settlement from the class-action suit). More than half the affected owners spent their 1994 PBT settlement proceeds on something other than plumbing. In addition, any cedar shake roofs still existing today may now be uninsurable. Even if a fire ins binder could be obtained in escrow on a property with shake roof, the homeowner will generally have less than a year to replace the roof (a $15-$30K job) in order not to be non-renewed. Accoustical “popcorn” ceiling in some or all rooms may need to be removed prior to move-in (messy (if not done before move-in) and expensive (if you don’t do it yourself). Beaten up wall heaters may need to be replaced with furnaces. The property may not have any insulation and little/no attic space.

The “best built,” IMO, is the late ’50’s/60’s house. Yes, even though garages were built with cedar/redwood planks :=]

[bearishgurl]

For a whole host of reasons, I believe the healthiest to live in and best-built houses in SD County were those built prior to 1950. That said, Scarlett, the areas you are looking to buy in don’t have this type of inventory.

On slab foundation, my preferences are as follows:

My first choice would be an early 60’s house with a wide covered front porch and covered back patio with one or two 5 or 6 ft patio doors (facing the same direction) leading out to it. This home would be oriented towards the backyard and have 0-2 small windows facing the street. I prefer a very wide (flagstone or travertine) foyer with a step-down living/dining area, brass intercom system still working and wall-vacuum originally installed. This particular type of home is not in your price range, unless you are willing to do substantial work on it. The garage could be attached or detached. Lot should be 7500 to 22,000 sf. Stay away from homes without even a partial attic. One bathroom big enough for a 7′ two-sink vanity, if not already there.

My second choice would be a 90’s house with rounded corner bead used on its drywall, perhaps use of an archway or two, double-paned windows already installed and built-in appls (even if old). I would NOT buy a property with more than one clerestory window or a vaulted ceiling more than 10′ at its highest point (HUGE waste of heat). Properly installed dbl-paned skylights okay. Rollout skylight okay in bathroom. 2+ car garage attached. One-story preferred on 6000 to 9000 sf lot. One bathroom big enough for a 7′ two-sink vanity, if not already there.

I wouldn’t buy a property built in the late seventies and eighties because SD County properties had several “construction issues” during this era and City/County officials were issuing bulk permits to developers so fast and furious from ’84 to ’90 that they didn’t have the personnel to oversee each building segment properly. PBT plumbing was commonly used in subdivisions (and later only partially replaced with copper by many property owners who later rec’d a settlement from the class-action suit). More than half the affected owners spent their 1994 PBT settlement proceeds on something other than plumbing. In addition, any cedar shake roofs still existing today may now be uninsurable. Even if a fire ins binder could be obtained in escrow on a property with shake roof, the homeowner will generally have less than a year to replace the roof (a $15-$30K job) in order not to be non-renewed. Accoustical “popcorn” ceiling in some or all rooms may need to be removed prior to move-in (messy (if not done before move-in) and expensive (if you don’t do it yourself). Beaten up wall heaters may need to be replaced with furnaces. The property may not have any insulation and little/no attic space.

The “best built,” IMO, is the late ’50’s/60’s house. Yes, even though garages were built with cedar/redwood planks :=]

[bearishgurl]

For a whole host of reasons, I believe the healthiest to live in and best-built houses in SD County were those built prior to 1950. That said, Scarlett, the areas you are looking to buy in don’t have this type of inventory.

On slab foundation, my preferences are as follows:

My first choice would be an early 60’s house with a wide covered front porch and covered back patio with one or two 5 or 6 ft patio doors (facing the same direction) leading out to it. This home would be oriented towards the backyard and have 0-2 small windows facing the street. I prefer a very wide (flagstone or travertine) foyer with a step-down living/dining area, brass intercom system still working and wall-vacuum originally installed. This particular type of home is not in your price range, unless you are willing to do substantial work on it. The garage could be attached or detached. Lot should be 7500 to 22,000 sf. Stay away from homes without even a partial attic. One bathroom big enough for a 7′ two-sink vanity, if not already there.

My second choice would be a 90’s house with rounded corner bead used on its drywall, perhaps use of an archway or two, double-paned windows already installed and built-in appls (even if old). I would NOT buy a property with more than one clerestory window or a vaulted ceiling more than 10′ at its highest point (HUGE waste of heat). Properly installed dbl-paned skylights okay. Rollout skylight okay in bathroom. 2+ car garage attached. One-story preferred on 6000 to 9000 sf lot. One bathroom big enough for a 7′ two-sink vanity, if not already there.

I wouldn’t buy a property built in the late seventies and eighties because SD County properties had several “construction issues” during this era and City/County officials were issuing bulk permits to developers so fast and furious from ’84 to ’90 that they didn’t have the personnel to oversee each building segment properly. PBT plumbing was commonly used in subdivisions (and later only partially replaced with copper by many property owners who later rec’d a settlement from the class-action suit). More than half the affected owners spent their 1994 PBT settlement proceeds on something other than plumbing. In addition, any cedar shake roofs still existing today may now be uninsurable. Even if a fire ins binder could be obtained in escrow on a property with shake roof, the homeowner will generally have less than a year to replace the roof (a $15-$30K job) in order not to be non-renewed. Accoustical “popcorn” ceiling in some or all rooms may need to be removed prior to move-in (messy (if not done before move-in) and expensive (if you don’t do it yourself). Beaten up wall heaters may need to be replaced with furnaces. The property may not have any insulation and little/no attic space.

The “best built,” IMO, is the late ’50’s/60’s house. Yes, even though garages were built with cedar/redwood planks :=]

[bearishgurl]

For a whole host of reasons, I believe the healthiest to live in and best-built houses in SD County were those built prior to 1950. That said, Scarlett, the areas you are looking to buy in don’t have this type of inventory.

On slab foundation, my preferences are as follows:

My first choice would be an early 60’s house with a wide covered front porch and covered back patio with one or two 5 or 6 ft patio doors (facing the same direction) leading out to it. This home would be oriented towards the backyard and have 0-2 small windows facing the street. I prefer a very wide (flagstone or travertine) foyer with a step-down living/dining area, brass intercom system still working and wall-vacuum originally installed. This particular type of home is not in your price range, unless you are willing to do substantial work on it. The garage could be attached or detached. Lot should be 7500 to 22,000 sf. Stay away from homes without even a partial attic. One bathroom big enough for a 7′ two-sink vanity, if not already there.

My second choice would be a 90’s house with rounded corner bead used on its drywall, perhaps use of an archway or two, double-paned windows already installed and built-in appls (even if old). I would NOT buy a property with more than one clerestory window or a vaulted ceiling more than 10′ at its highest point (HUGE waste of heat). Properly installed dbl-paned skylights okay. Rollout skylight okay in bathroom. 2+ car garage attached. One-story preferred on 6000 to 9000 sf lot. One bathroom big enough for a 7′ two-sink vanity, if not already there.

I wouldn’t buy a property built in the late seventies and eighties because SD County properties had several “construction issues” during this era and City/County officials were issuing bulk permits to developers so fast and furious from ’84 to ’90 that they didn’t have the personnel to oversee each building segment properly. PBT plumbing was commonly used in subdivisions (and later only partially replaced with copper by many property owners who later rec’d a settlement from the class-action suit). More than half the affected owners spent their 1994 PBT settlement proceeds on something other than plumbing. In addition, any cedar shake roofs still existing today may now be uninsurable. Even if a fire ins binder could be obtained in escrow on a property with shake roof, the homeowner will generally have less than a year to replace the roof (a $15-$30K job) in order not to be non-renewed. Accoustical “popcorn” ceiling in some or all rooms may need to be removed prior to move-in (messy (if not done before move-in) and expensive (if you don’t do it yourself). Beaten up wall heaters may need to be replaced with furnaces. The property may not have any insulation and little/no attic space.

The “best built,” IMO, is the late ’50’s/60’s house. Yes, even though garages were built with cedar/redwood planks :=]

[briansd1]

ucodegen, what do you think of crosslinked PEX plumbing vs. copper?

I like the central distribution hub

http://www.toolbase.org/Technology-Inventory/Plumbing/cross-linked-polyethylene-pex

[briansd1]

ucodegen, what do you think of crosslinked PEX plumbing vs. copper?

I like the central distribution hub

http://www.toolbase.org/Technology-Inventory/Plumbing/cross-linked-polyethylene-pex

[briansd1]

ucodegen, what do you think of crosslinked PEX plumbing vs. copper?

I like the central distribution hub

http://www.toolbase.org/Technology-Inventory/Plumbing/cross-linked-polyethylene-pex

[briansd1]

ucodegen, what do you think of crosslinked PEX plumbing vs. copper?

I like the central distribution hub

http://www.toolbase.org/Technology-Inventory/Plumbing/cross-linked-polyethylene-pex

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