OT: Any photogs shoot with a circular polarizer..If so, got one to recommend.

[ucodegen]

It is hard to tell which of your listed ones give you the best price/perf. They are not using the names of the filters that Hoya is actually using. If they were, I could compare them. Hoya has 4 styles of coated filters. In the size of 67mm, they have have 3 of the types.

Standard, HMC and S-HMC(same as HMC but slim profile for wide angle lens to prevent vignetting.)

I tracked down the size of the filter for both lens. They both use a 67mm. The problem is that the wide angle will probably need a slim profile or you should use a 67mm/72mm step ring and go to a larger size. You will not be able to use the lens hood on the Tamron 17/50 with the filter on if the filter has a step ring. On the other hand, you will be able to use full wide angle on the lens with the filter without vignetting when using the step ring design.

Links for Hoya filter specs from manufacturer:
http://www.hoyafilter.com/products/hoya/gf-04.html
coating types: http://www.hoyafilter.com/products/hoya/coatings.html
“Pro” line
http://www.hoyafilter.com/products/hoya/pro1d-04.html

With Amazon, I don’t know what specific filters are being listed because they don’t use manufacturers part numbers. The ‘model number’ does not trace to anything.

Try Adorama and you can use their ‘filtering’ ability to select specific sizes and manufacturers. They also list manufacturer’s model numbers. What I can determine from Hoyas part numbers.. the format is the following:
{type_of_coatings/family}{size}{type of filter}
{type of coatings/family} maps to:
A – Multicoat
B – Hard multicoat
X – Super Multicoat – thin profile
XD – Pro 1 line, multicoat.
XHD – Super Multicoat with Hardened glass.
G – Standard
{size} will be size in mm.
{type of filter} would map to
PL – Linear Polarizer
CRPL – Circular Polarizer.

Therefore a G67CRPL will be the ‘standard 67mm circular polarizer’, which is single coated. This is for Hoya.. other manufacturers are different.

[Coronita]

[quote=ucodegen]It is hard to tell which of your listed ones give you the best price/perf. They are not using the names of the filters that Hoya is actually using. If they were, I could compare them. Hoya has 4 styles of coated filters. In the size of 67mm, they have have 3 of the types.

Standard, HMC and S-HMC(same as HMC but slim profile for wide angle lens to prevent vignetting.)

I tracked down the size of the filter for both lens. They both use a 67mm. The problem is that the wide angle will probably need a slim profile or you should use a 67mm/72mm step ring and go to a larger size. You will not be able to use the lens hood on the Tamron 17/50 with the filter on if the filter has a step ring. On the other hand, you will be able to use full wide angle on the lens with the filter without vignetting when using the step ring design.

Links for Hoya filter specs from manufacturer:
http://www.hoyafilter.com/products/hoya/gf-04.html
coating types: http://www.hoyafilter.com/products/hoya/coatings.html
“Pro” line
http://www.hoyafilter.com/products/hoya/pro1d-04.html

With Amazon, I don’t know what specific filters are being listed because they don’t use manufacturers part numbers. The ‘model number’ does not trace to anything.

Try Adorama and you can use their ‘filtering’ ability to select specific sizes and manufacturers. They also list manufacturer’s model numbers. What I can determine from Hoyas part numbers.. the format is the following:
{type_of_coatings/family}{size}{type of filter}
{type of coatings/family} maps to:
A – Multicoat
B – Hard multicoat
X – Super Multicoat – thin profile
XD – Pro 1 line, multicoat.
XHD – Super Multicoat with Hardened glass.
G – Standard
{size} will be size in mm.
{type of filter} would map to
PL – Linear Polarizer
CRPL – Circular Polarizer.

Therefore a G67CRPL will be the ‘standard 67mm circular polarizer’, which is single coated. This is for Hoya.. other manufacturers are different.[/quote]

Wow, thanks! So I guess especially for the wide angle, putting a polarizer on top of a UV filter is a no-no due to vignetting… I haven’t noticed vignetting problem with my B+W filter, and it’s not a low-profile one…Maybe I’m just not looking too hard.

Thanks so much for this info, this helps.

[Coronita]

[quote=ucodegen]It is hard to tell which of your listed ones give you the best price/perf. They are not using the names of the filters that Hoya is actually using. If they were, I could compare them. Hoya has 4 styles of coated filters. In the size of 67mm, they have have 3 of the types.

Standard, HMC and S-HMC(same as HMC but slim profile for wide angle lens to prevent vignetting.)

I tracked down the size of the filter for both lens. They both use a 67mm. The problem is that the wide angle will probably need a slim profile or you should use a 67mm/72mm step ring and go to a larger size. You will not be able to use the lens hood on the Tamron 17/50 with the filter on if the filter has a step ring. On the other hand, you will be able to use full wide angle on the lens with the filter without vignetting when using the step ring design.

Links for Hoya filter specs from manufacturer:
http://www.hoyafilter.com/products/hoya/gf-04.html
coating types: http://www.hoyafilter.com/products/hoya/coatings.html
“Pro” line
http://www.hoyafilter.com/products/hoya/pro1d-04.html

With Amazon, I don’t know what specific filters are being listed because they don’t use manufacturers part numbers. The ‘model number’ does not trace to anything.

Try Adorama and you can use their ‘filtering’ ability to select specific sizes and manufacturers. They also list manufacturer’s model numbers. What I can determine from Hoyas part numbers.. the format is the following:
{type_of_coatings/family}{size}{type of filter}
{type of coatings/family} maps to:
A – Multicoat
B – Hard multicoat
X – Super Multicoat – thin profile
XD – Pro 1 line, multicoat.
XHD – Super Multicoat with Hardened glass.
G – Standard
{size} will be size in mm.
{type of filter} would map to
PL – Linear Polarizer
CRPL – Circular Polarizer.

Therefore a G67CRPL will be the ‘standard 67mm circular polarizer’, which is single coated. This is for Hoya.. other manufacturers are different.[/quote]

Wow, thanks! So I guess especially for the wide angle, putting a polarizer on top of a UV filter is a no-no due to vignetting… I haven’t noticed vignetting problem with my B+W filter, and it’s not a low-profile one…Maybe I’m just not looking too hard.

Thanks so much for this info, this helps.

[Coronita]

[quote=ucodegen]It is hard to tell which of your listed ones give you the best price/perf. They are not using the names of the filters that Hoya is actually using. If they were, I could compare them. Hoya has 4 styles of coated filters. In the size of 67mm, they have have 3 of the types.

Standard, HMC and S-HMC(same as HMC but slim profile for wide angle lens to prevent vignetting.)

I tracked down the size of the filter for both lens. They both use a 67mm. The problem is that the wide angle will probably need a slim profile or you should use a 67mm/72mm step ring and go to a larger size. You will not be able to use the lens hood on the Tamron 17/50 with the filter on if the filter has a step ring. On the other hand, you will be able to use full wide angle on the lens with the filter without vignetting when using the step ring design.

Links for Hoya filter specs from manufacturer:
http://www.hoyafilter.com/products/hoya/gf-04.html
coating types: http://www.hoyafilter.com/products/hoya/coatings.html
“Pro” line
http://www.hoyafilter.com/products/hoya/pro1d-04.html

With Amazon, I don’t know what specific filters are being listed because they don’t use manufacturers part numbers. The ‘model number’ does not trace to anything.

Try Adorama and you can use their ‘filtering’ ability to select specific sizes and manufacturers. They also list manufacturer’s model numbers. What I can determine from Hoyas part numbers.. the format is the following:
{type_of_coatings/family}{size}{type of filter}
{type of coatings/family} maps to:
A – Multicoat
B – Hard multicoat
X – Super Multicoat – thin profile
XD – Pro 1 line, multicoat.
XHD – Super Multicoat with Hardened glass.
G – Standard
{size} will be size in mm.
{type of filter} would map to
PL – Linear Polarizer
CRPL – Circular Polarizer.

Therefore a G67CRPL will be the ‘standard 67mm circular polarizer’, which is single coated. This is for Hoya.. other manufacturers are different.[/quote]

Wow, thanks! So I guess especially for the wide angle, putting a polarizer on top of a UV filter is a no-no due to vignetting… I haven’t noticed vignetting problem with my B+W filter, and it’s not a low-profile one…Maybe I’m just not looking too hard.

Thanks so much for this info, this helps.

[Coronita]

[quote=ucodegen]It is hard to tell which of your listed ones give you the best price/perf. They are not using the names of the filters that Hoya is actually using. If they were, I could compare them. Hoya has 4 styles of coated filters. In the size of 67mm, they have have 3 of the types.

Standard, HMC and S-HMC(same as HMC but slim profile for wide angle lens to prevent vignetting.)

I tracked down the size of the filter for both lens. They both use a 67mm. The problem is that the wide angle will probably need a slim profile or you should use a 67mm/72mm step ring and go to a larger size. You will not be able to use the lens hood on the Tamron 17/50 with the filter on if the filter has a step ring. On the other hand, you will be able to use full wide angle on the lens with the filter without vignetting when using the step ring design.

Links for Hoya filter specs from manufacturer:
http://www.hoyafilter.com/products/hoya/gf-04.html
coating types: http://www.hoyafilter.com/products/hoya/coatings.html
“Pro” line
http://www.hoyafilter.com/products/hoya/pro1d-04.html

With Amazon, I don’t know what specific filters are being listed because they don’t use manufacturers part numbers. The ‘model number’ does not trace to anything.

Try Adorama and you can use their ‘filtering’ ability to select specific sizes and manufacturers. They also list manufacturer’s model numbers. What I can determine from Hoyas part numbers.. the format is the following:
{type_of_coatings/family}{size}{type of filter}
{type of coatings/family} maps to:
A – Multicoat
B – Hard multicoat
X – Super Multicoat – thin profile
XD – Pro 1 line, multicoat.
XHD – Super Multicoat with Hardened glass.
G – Standard
{size} will be size in mm.
{type of filter} would map to
PL – Linear Polarizer
CRPL – Circular Polarizer.

Therefore a G67CRPL will be the ‘standard 67mm circular polarizer’, which is single coated. This is for Hoya.. other manufacturers are different.[/quote]

Wow, thanks! So I guess especially for the wide angle, putting a polarizer on top of a UV filter is a no-no due to vignetting… I haven’t noticed vignetting problem with my B+W filter, and it’s not a low-profile one…Maybe I’m just not looking too hard.

Thanks so much for this info, this helps.

[Coronita]

[quote=ucodegen]It is hard to tell which of your listed ones give you the best price/perf. They are not using the names of the filters that Hoya is actually using. If they were, I could compare them. Hoya has 4 styles of coated filters. In the size of 67mm, they have have 3 of the types.

Standard, HMC and S-HMC(same as HMC but slim profile for wide angle lens to prevent vignetting.)

I tracked down the size of the filter for both lens. They both use a 67mm. The problem is that the wide angle will probably need a slim profile or you should use a 67mm/72mm step ring and go to a larger size. You will not be able to use the lens hood on the Tamron 17/50 with the filter on if the filter has a step ring. On the other hand, you will be able to use full wide angle on the lens with the filter without vignetting when using the step ring design.

Links for Hoya filter specs from manufacturer:
http://www.hoyafilter.com/products/hoya/gf-04.html
coating types: http://www.hoyafilter.com/products/hoya/coatings.html
“Pro” line
http://www.hoyafilter.com/products/hoya/pro1d-04.html

With Amazon, I don’t know what specific filters are being listed because they don’t use manufacturers part numbers. The ‘model number’ does not trace to anything.

Try Adorama and you can use their ‘filtering’ ability to select specific sizes and manufacturers. They also list manufacturer’s model numbers. What I can determine from Hoyas part numbers.. the format is the following:
{type_of_coatings/family}{size}{type of filter}
{type of coatings/family} maps to:
A – Multicoat
B – Hard multicoat
X – Super Multicoat – thin profile
XD – Pro 1 line, multicoat.
XHD – Super Multicoat with Hardened glass.
G – Standard
{size} will be size in mm.
{type of filter} would map to
PL – Linear Polarizer
CRPL – Circular Polarizer.

Therefore a G67CRPL will be the ‘standard 67mm circular polarizer’, which is single coated. This is for Hoya.. other manufacturers are different.[/quote]

Wow, thanks! So I guess especially for the wide angle, putting a polarizer on top of a UV filter is a no-no due to vignetting… I haven’t noticed vignetting problem with my B+W filter, and it’s not a low-profile one…Maybe I’m just not looking too hard.

Thanks so much for this info, this helps.

[ucodegen]

Wow, thanks! So I guess especially for the wide angle, putting a polarizer on top of a UV filter is a no-no due to vignetting… I haven’t noticed vignetting problem with my B+W filter, and it’s not a low-profile one…Maybe I’m just not looking too hard.

A UV filter is thinner than a polarizer. Polarizers have two rings, a fixed ring portion that screws into the lens and a rotating portion that allows you to align the polarizing element to get the effect (best if oriented 90 degrees to a line between lens and position of the sun). Depending upon how aligned, polarizers will either strengthen or weaken reflections etc. One way to see if vignetting will be a problem is to ‘double stack’ the UV filters on the wide angle lens and then look at the corners of the viewfinder/pictures and see if they are darker than the center.

One of the problems with stacking a polarizer on top of a UV filter is that each filter adds aberrations to the image. I tend to take my UV off when putting on the polarizer.. but you also have to be careful there. Many lens built today have plastic front thread barrels.. which are too easy to crossthread. Once cross-threaded, trying to get the filters on properly will be a problem.

NOTE: The ‘X’ series of Hoya filters is about the thickness of a UV filter (Super Multicoat thin profile). I suspect that the Pro-1 line is also about the thickness of a UV filter. The others are thicker. (This is generally true across the manufacturers) The thin profiles are a little harder to handle because the ring you have to handle to align the filter is about 2mm wide at most, same size as the ring to screw it onto the lens.

[ucodegen]

Wow, thanks! So I guess especially for the wide angle, putting a polarizer on top of a UV filter is a no-no due to vignetting… I haven’t noticed vignetting problem with my B+W filter, and it’s not a low-profile one…Maybe I’m just not looking too hard.

A UV filter is thinner than a polarizer. Polarizers have two rings, a fixed ring portion that screws into the lens and a rotating portion that allows you to align the polarizing element to get the effect (best if oriented 90 degrees to a line between lens and position of the sun). Depending upon how aligned, polarizers will either strengthen or weaken reflections etc. One way to see if vignetting will be a problem is to ‘double stack’ the UV filters on the wide angle lens and then look at the corners of the viewfinder/pictures and see if they are darker than the center.

One of the problems with stacking a polarizer on top of a UV filter is that each filter adds aberrations to the image. I tend to take my UV off when putting on the polarizer.. but you also have to be careful there. Many lens built today have plastic front thread barrels.. which are too easy to crossthread. Once cross-threaded, trying to get the filters on properly will be a problem.

NOTE: The ‘X’ series of Hoya filters is about the thickness of a UV filter (Super Multicoat thin profile). I suspect that the Pro-1 line is also about the thickness of a UV filter. The others are thicker. (This is generally true across the manufacturers) The thin profiles are a little harder to handle because the ring you have to handle to align the filter is about 2mm wide at most, same size as the ring to screw it onto the lens.

[ucodegen]

Wow, thanks! So I guess especially for the wide angle, putting a polarizer on top of a UV filter is a no-no due to vignetting… I haven’t noticed vignetting problem with my B+W filter, and it’s not a low-profile one…Maybe I’m just not looking too hard.

A UV filter is thinner than a polarizer. Polarizers have two rings, a fixed ring portion that screws into the lens and a rotating portion that allows you to align the polarizing element to get the effect (best if oriented 90 degrees to a line between lens and position of the sun). Depending upon how aligned, polarizers will either strengthen or weaken reflections etc. One way to see if vignetting will be a problem is to ‘double stack’ the UV filters on the wide angle lens and then look at the corners of the viewfinder/pictures and see if they are darker than the center.

One of the problems with stacking a polarizer on top of a UV filter is that each filter adds aberrations to the image. I tend to take my UV off when putting on the polarizer.. but you also have to be careful there. Many lens built today have plastic front thread barrels.. which are too easy to crossthread. Once cross-threaded, trying to get the filters on properly will be a problem.

NOTE: The ‘X’ series of Hoya filters is about the thickness of a UV filter (Super Multicoat thin profile). I suspect that the Pro-1 line is also about the thickness of a UV filter. The others are thicker. (This is generally true across the manufacturers) The thin profiles are a little harder to handle because the ring you have to handle to align the filter is about 2mm wide at most, same size as the ring to screw it onto the lens.

[ucodegen]

Wow, thanks! So I guess especially for the wide angle, putting a polarizer on top of a UV filter is a no-no due to vignetting… I haven’t noticed vignetting problem with my B+W filter, and it’s not a low-profile one…Maybe I’m just not looking too hard.

A UV filter is thinner than a polarizer. Polarizers have two rings, a fixed ring portion that screws into the lens and a rotating portion that allows you to align the polarizing element to get the effect (best if oriented 90 degrees to a line between lens and position of the sun). Depending upon how aligned, polarizers will either strengthen or weaken reflections etc. One way to see if vignetting will be a problem is to ‘double stack’ the UV filters on the wide angle lens and then look at the corners of the viewfinder/pictures and see if they are darker than the center.

One of the problems with stacking a polarizer on top of a UV filter is that each filter adds aberrations to the image. I tend to take my UV off when putting on the polarizer.. but you also have to be careful there. Many lens built today have plastic front thread barrels.. which are too easy to crossthread. Once cross-threaded, trying to get the filters on properly will be a problem.

NOTE: The ‘X’ series of Hoya filters is about the thickness of a UV filter (Super Multicoat thin profile). I suspect that the Pro-1 line is also about the thickness of a UV filter. The others are thicker. (This is generally true across the manufacturers) The thin profiles are a little harder to handle because the ring you have to handle to align the filter is about 2mm wide at most, same size as the ring to screw it onto the lens.

[ucodegen]

Wow, thanks! So I guess especially for the wide angle, putting a polarizer on top of a UV filter is a no-no due to vignetting… I haven’t noticed vignetting problem with my B+W filter, and it’s not a low-profile one…Maybe I’m just not looking too hard.

A UV filter is thinner than a polarizer. Polarizers have two rings, a fixed ring portion that screws into the lens and a rotating portion that allows you to align the polarizing element to get the effect (best if oriented 90 degrees to a line between lens and position of the sun). Depending upon how aligned, polarizers will either strengthen or weaken reflections etc. One way to see if vignetting will be a problem is to ‘double stack’ the UV filters on the wide angle lens and then look at the corners of the viewfinder/pictures and see if they are darker than the center.

One of the problems with stacking a polarizer on top of a UV filter is that each filter adds aberrations to the image. I tend to take my UV off when putting on the polarizer.. but you also have to be careful there. Many lens built today have plastic front thread barrels.. which are too easy to crossthread. Once cross-threaded, trying to get the filters on properly will be a problem.

NOTE: The ‘X’ series of Hoya filters is about the thickness of a UV filter (Super Multicoat thin profile). I suspect that the Pro-1 line is also about the thickness of a UV filter. The others are thicker. (This is generally true across the manufacturers) The thin profiles are a little harder to handle because the ring you have to handle to align the filter is about 2mm wide at most, same size as the ring to screw it onto the lens.

[Coronita]

[quote=ucodegen]

Wow, thanks! So I guess especially for the wide angle, putting a polarizer on top of a UV filter is a no-no due to vignetting… I haven’t noticed vignetting problem with my B+W filter, and it’s not a low-profile one…Maybe I’m just not looking too hard.

A UV filter is thinner than a polarizer. Polarizers have two rings, a fixed ring portion that screws into the lens and a rotating portion that allows you to align the polarizing element to get the effect (best if oriented 90 degrees to a line between lens and position of the sun). Depending upon how aligned, polarizers will either strengthen or weaken reflections etc. One way to see if vignetting will be a problem is to ‘double stack’ the UV filters on the wide angle lens and then look at the corners of the viewfinder/pictures and see if they are darker than the center.

One of the problems with stacking a polarizer on top of a UV filter is that each filter adds aberrations to the image. I tend to take my UV off when putting on the polarizer.. but you also have to be careful there. Many lens built today have plastic front thread barrels.. which are too easy to crossthread. Once cross-threaded, trying to get the filters on properly will be a problem.

NOTE: The ‘X’ series of Hoya filters is about the thickness of a UV filter (Super Multicoat thin profile). I suspect that the Pro-1 line is also about the thickness of a UV filter. The others are thicker. (This is generally true across the manufacturers) The thin profiles are a little harder to handle because the ring you have to handle to align the filter is about 2mm wide at most, same size as the ring to screw it onto the lens.[/quote]

Thank you sir! I just ordered a Hoya “X” filter from Adorama directly. Thanks for the reminder about plastic filter threads on some lenses.
I figured out that why tamron’s are at the prices points that they are at why Canon L’s are at there’s. While I’m pretty happy with the Tamron, it’s not quite the same build quality of Canon. My rule of thumb for putting on a filter is to rotate them on ccw for a bit to get alignment first and then to rotate them cw to actually mount them. Haven’t had issues with the plastic threads (yet) 🙂

[Coronita]

[quote=ucodegen]

Wow, thanks! So I guess especially for the wide angle, putting a polarizer on top of a UV filter is a no-no due to vignetting… I haven’t noticed vignetting problem with my B+W filter, and it’s not a low-profile one…Maybe I’m just not looking too hard.

A UV filter is thinner than a polarizer. Polarizers have two rings, a fixed ring portion that screws into the lens and a rotating portion that allows you to align the polarizing element to get the effect (best if oriented 90 degrees to a line between lens and position of the sun). Depending upon how aligned, polarizers will either strengthen or weaken reflections etc. One way to see if vignetting will be a problem is to ‘double stack’ the UV filters on the wide angle lens and then look at the corners of the viewfinder/pictures and see if they are darker than the center.

One of the problems with stacking a polarizer on top of a UV filter is that each filter adds aberrations to the image. I tend to take my UV off when putting on the polarizer.. but you also have to be careful there. Many lens built today have plastic front thread barrels.. which are too easy to crossthread. Once cross-threaded, trying to get the filters on properly will be a problem.

NOTE: The ‘X’ series of Hoya filters is about the thickness of a UV filter (Super Multicoat thin profile). I suspect that the Pro-1 line is also about the thickness of a UV filter. The others are thicker. (This is generally true across the manufacturers) The thin profiles are a little harder to handle because the ring you have to handle to align the filter is about 2mm wide at most, same size as the ring to screw it onto the lens.[/quote]

Thank you sir! I just ordered a Hoya “X” filter from Adorama directly. Thanks for the reminder about plastic filter threads on some lenses.
I figured out that why tamron’s are at the prices points that they are at why Canon L’s are at there’s. While I’m pretty happy with the Tamron, it’s not quite the same build quality of Canon. My rule of thumb for putting on a filter is to rotate them on ccw for a bit to get alignment first and then to rotate them cw to actually mount them. Haven’t had issues with the plastic threads (yet) 🙂

[Coronita]

[quote=ucodegen]

Wow, thanks! So I guess especially for the wide angle, putting a polarizer on top of a UV filter is a no-no due to vignetting… I haven’t noticed vignetting problem with my B+W filter, and it’s not a low-profile one…Maybe I’m just not looking too hard.

A UV filter is thinner than a polarizer. Polarizers have two rings, a fixed ring portion that screws into the lens and a rotating portion that allows you to align the polarizing element to get the effect (best if oriented 90 degrees to a line between lens and position of the sun). Depending upon how aligned, polarizers will either strengthen or weaken reflections etc. One way to see if vignetting will be a problem is to ‘double stack’ the UV filters on the wide angle lens and then look at the corners of the viewfinder/pictures and see if they are darker than the center.

One of the problems with stacking a polarizer on top of a UV filter is that each filter adds aberrations to the image. I tend to take my UV off when putting on the polarizer.. but you also have to be careful there. Many lens built today have plastic front thread barrels.. which are too easy to crossthread. Once cross-threaded, trying to get the filters on properly will be a problem.

NOTE: The ‘X’ series of Hoya filters is about the thickness of a UV filter (Super Multicoat thin profile). I suspect that the Pro-1 line is also about the thickness of a UV filter. The others are thicker. (This is generally true across the manufacturers) The thin profiles are a little harder to handle because the ring you have to handle to align the filter is about 2mm wide at most, same size as the ring to screw it onto the lens.[/quote]

Thank you sir! I just ordered a Hoya “X” filter from Adorama directly. Thanks for the reminder about plastic filter threads on some lenses.
I figured out that why tamron’s are at the prices points that they are at why Canon L’s are at there’s. While I’m pretty happy with the Tamron, it’s not quite the same build quality of Canon. My rule of thumb for putting on a filter is to rotate them on ccw for a bit to get alignment first and then to rotate them cw to actually mount them. Haven’t had issues with the plastic threads (yet) 🙂

[Coronita]

[quote=ucodegen]

Wow, thanks! So I guess especially for the wide angle, putting a polarizer on top of a UV filter is a no-no due to vignetting… I haven’t noticed vignetting problem with my B+W filter, and it’s not a low-profile one…Maybe I’m just not looking too hard.

A UV filter is thinner than a polarizer. Polarizers have two rings, a fixed ring portion that screws into the lens and a rotating portion that allows you to align the polarizing element to get the effect (best if oriented 90 degrees to a line between lens and position of the sun). Depending upon how aligned, polarizers will either strengthen or weaken reflections etc. One way to see if vignetting will be a problem is to ‘double stack’ the UV filters on the wide angle lens and then look at the corners of the viewfinder/pictures and see if they are darker than the center.

One of the problems with stacking a polarizer on top of a UV filter is that each filter adds aberrations to the image. I tend to take my UV off when putting on the polarizer.. but you also have to be careful there. Many lens built today have plastic front thread barrels.. which are too easy to crossthread. Once cross-threaded, trying to get the filters on properly will be a problem.

NOTE: The ‘X’ series of Hoya filters is about the thickness of a UV filter (Super Multicoat thin profile). I suspect that the Pro-1 line is also about the thickness of a UV filter. The others are thicker. (This is generally true across the manufacturers) The thin profiles are a little harder to handle because the ring you have to handle to align the filter is about 2mm wide at most, same size as the ring to screw it onto the lens.[/quote]

Thank you sir! I just ordered a Hoya “X” filter from Adorama directly. Thanks for the reminder about plastic filter threads on some lenses.
I figured out that why tamron’s are at the prices points that they are at why Canon L’s are at there’s. While I’m pretty happy with the Tamron, it’s not quite the same build quality of Canon. My rule of thumb for putting on a filter is to rotate them on ccw for a bit to get alignment first and then to rotate them cw to actually mount them. Haven’t had issues with the plastic threads (yet) 🙂

[Author]

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