North County Coastal monitor

[sdrealtor]

Of course it’s out of reach for nearly all. It’s just bonkers that there are buyers fighting even at that level. I think I live in a pretty average home for this area on a bigger than most lot. The Zillow on my hovel just crossed $2m. I think that’s about the price give or take a little for a decent tract houses with at least 4 br and 3 ba that’s not a complete fixer. That’s crazy town

[flyer]

In all of my years as an investor, never thought I’d see anything like this–it’s great–but still wonder where it all goes from here. Very interesting.

[Coronita]

[quote=limkotir]A lot of money and demand chasing too few goods. Going through the car buying process myself right now – different product but same story, but unlike cars and many consumer goods, you can just pump up the supply side of the equation to counter balance the demand.

$7M is quite out of reach for 99% of the public, but I wonder what is that sweet spot price that balances size, condition and the general area of the home to what you’re paying, if you guys know what I’m asking here — feels like $2.5M to $3M for these NCC homes tracked in this thread?[/quote]

Now is an awful time to buy a car. I would strongly advise against it unless it’s absolutely necessary….You are going to bend over totally, unless you have a way to get employee discounting.

Even the used market is crazy.. I gauge inflation and craziness by the outlook of miatas.

[img_assist|nid=27554|title=miata1|desc=|link=node|align=left|width=1000]

[img_assist|nid=27559|title=miata2|desc=|link=node|align=left|width=1000]

Um… These use to be cheap autocross/rally/HPDE beater cars around $2k.

Granted these two examples appear to have been rebuilt and one has some nice engine upgrades…But still…..That isn’t even a built motor. It’s probably just a normal motor with a blower attached to it. That S3 turbo kit on the second car doesnt add like $10k to the car’s price.

Also honda just announced they are starting to offer certified preowned cars for cars 10 years old. lol.

Good thing I kept my old one after the new one. One day it will be worth more than all my POS german cars combined… Just need a few more kids to crash and total some more.

[gzz]

I purchased a mazda cx30 crossover at MSRP in September. They did a 3 year 0% loan too.

They basically would sell them within 2 days of arrival at the dealer. I just waited for one to pop up on their website, test drove it, bought it, made the salesman’s life easy as possible. He did try to charge an extra 2k market adjustment at first, but I moved on and called him back a week later and he changed his mind.

There’s no point in buying used now IMO if you can afford a new one.

I adore the car. Zero problems, and the best drive and interior out of the 6 I did test drives of and 15 I sat in. If you want a small CUV with awd, full leather, and drives like a car not an SUV, try it out.

[flyer]

So true. We’re really into cars too, and, can’t believe what’s going on in that market either. Guess we should all be glad we “stocked up” when things in life were more reasonable.

Looking back, I’m really glad I encouraged friends and family who were sitting on the fence wrt to moving up or relocating to San Diego to do so a few years ago, and, looking at what’s going on now, they are very glad they did.

[Coronita]

[quote=gzz]I purchased a mazda cx30 crossover at MSRP in September. They did a 3 year 0% loan too.

They basically would sell them within 2 days of arrival at the dealer. I just waited for one to pop up on their website, test drove it, bought it, made the salesman’s life easy as possible. He did try to charge an extra 2k market adjustment at first, but I moved on and called him back a week later and he changed his mind.

There’s no point in buying used now IMO if you can afford a new one.

I adore the car. Zero problems, and the best drive and interior out of the 6 I did test drives of and 15 I sat in. If you want a small CUV with awd, full leather, and drives like a car not an SUV, try it out.[/quote]

Ouch … MSRP? Mazdas use to sell below invoice. I had a cx5 priced $2k below invoice at the beginning of 2021, which was even been than S-plan friends and family pricing that you can get near ar invoice or a few hundred above. S-plan pricing is pretty easy to get. You just have to join Mazda Motorsports for free and you get parts at dealer cost and S-plan pricing on new cars. It’s not that hard to qualify for mazda motorsports membership. You just need to participate in one timed/result posted autocross/hpde event every two years and submit your proof you attended the event and finished. You don’t even need to drive a Mazda,it literally can be a beater car that barely crosses the finish line in a timed event. A simple autocross is like $80 but saves you hundreds if not thousand off a new car purchase because you can S-plan pricing and gets you parts at dealership cost.

I bought a brand new spare transmission from Mazda Motorsports for $1200, much less than any rebuild. $1200 for a new transmission is ridiculously cheap. That’s how much it costs just to replace a plastic valve cover on a BMW N55 engine, lol.

I’ve pretty much decided not to get a new car unless it’s electric. No point in getting an ICE car now. Plus I got a few to drive into the ground before I have from for another car, lol.

Hopefully, you shopped around with LA dealers too over the internet. Galpin Mazda sells cars well below other dealers because they are one of the largest dealers in SoCal. They are the ones that were going to give me way below invoice on the CX-5.

They have over 30 cx-30’s so they wheel and deal. Unlike miata’s where there’s no inventory and marked up.

https://www.galpinmazda.com/inventory/new-vehicles/models=Mazda_CX-30

[Coronita]

gzz, I hope you got the CX-30 carbon edition, because that’s the only one that is MSRP and it’s only available at Galpin. A quick 15 minute email to them, and they were able to get me MSRP for the carbon edition.

Otherwise, if you didn’t get a carbon edition, hopefully you didn’t get it at Escondido, because a quick 15 minutes, I got $1000 off msrp withour really trying that hard. I’m asking Galpin to beat or match…

Next time, let me help you with the negotiations…[img_assist|nid=27560|title=cx30|desc=|link=node|align=left|width=1000]

(Actual salesman email deleted to protect the innocent)

[Coronita]

gzz, I hope you got the CX-30 carbon edition, because that’s the only one that is MSRP and it’s only available at Galpin. A quick 15 minute email to them, and they were able to get me MSRP for the carbon edition.

Otherwise, if you didn’t get a carbon edition, hopefully you didn’t get it at Escondido, because a quick 15 minutes, I got $1000 off msrp withour really trying that hard. I asked Galpin to beat or match to see what they have to say. They have 30 in stock and the longer one sits on the lot the more money they will lose, so I am pretty confident they will beat escondido to clear the inventory.

And that isn’t asking for the s-plan discount.

Next time, let me help you with the negotiations. I[img_assist|nid=27560|title=cx30|desc=|link=node|align=left|width=1000]

(Actual salesman email deleted to protect the innocent)

[scaredyclassic]

Odometers just about to turn over 10k miles on the ebike.

[Coronita]

… and that’s not my real name in my burner email address that I toss after negotiations….

[gzz]

I suppose now a hot new japanese CUV model at msrp might not be great. 6 months ago, it certainly was. The rav4 was consistently going for 5k over msrp.

I got premium awd. Basically the top non-turbo spec. I wanted specifically either a bright red, blue, or green car with white or light tan full leather.

Cx30 is a new and lower volume model than cx5 which is by far the most popular mazda.

2k under msrp just wasn’t happening, especially if you want a specific combo in a hot segment, and japanese make in California. I could have got $500 off, but the 36 month 0% was worth much more, about $1800 if my alternate investment is a tax free muni fund at 4%.

I first went to the Kearney Mesa dealer, which subsequently closed for renovations.

They had -40 CX5s in stock, and 0-4 of every other model. It was surreal.

The National City dealer I went with wasn’t quite as extreme, but still half of inventory was cx5, with a smattering of 3 sedans, 3 hatches, and less than 3 each of cx9, cx3, and mazda 6 sedan. Both places had zero cx30 in stock when I visited.

I feel that 2022 MSRPs went up and chip shortages lessened, so the giant premiums went away. Though my vehicle specifically didn’t seem to get much if a msrp bump, and they made awd standard.

[gzz]

Here’s a question for you. When should I change the oil if I drive 3k miles a year?

I am at 1500 and 6mo mark right now.

Years ago I researched this and came up with every 6 months for a consistent lower mileage driver.

[Coronita]

Regardless, Mazda’s are nice cars. In the long run $1000 more won’t matter anyway.

Toyotas are really expensive right now because of their reputation. You can drive a toyota most likely for 200k+ without any issues.

Mazda quality is getting way better. The quality isn’t the issue, is the availability of parts that will be of more concern because they are a smaller car company so a lot of parts are not cross-shared. It’s not nearly as bad as BMW’s but it’s not as good as sa y a Toyota because just by the number of cars under both their Toyota and Lexus brands

[Coronita]

[quote=gzz]Here’s a question for you. When should I change the oil if I drive 3k miles a year?

I am at 1500 and 6mo mark right now.

Years ago I researched this and came up with every 6 months for a consistent lower mileage driver.[/quote]

Well, that depends.

1. Do you put in synthetic? If you don’t, you should. You shouldn’t use anything but synthetic in a direct injection.

2. Are those highway miles or local miles?
Because highway miles are better than local miles.

As a rule of thumb:

* with direct injection engines, I do synthetic oil changes + filter every 6 months regardless if it’s low miles. My mileage is about 5000/year.

* with non-direct injection engines, I do oil changes 1 year with synthetic oil + non-paper oil filters. My mileage is about 5000/year for those cars.

* for cars that I autocross or do a HPDE track event (once each month), I do synthetic oil change + filter after every 2 autocrosses or after 1 HPDE track event, regardless of mileage, which is probably overkill. I also run a front mount oil cooler, which besides keeping the engine cooler, also adds an extra quart of capacity.

[img_assist|nid=27561|title=oil cooler|desc=|link=node|align=left|width=1000]

For the mazda, I just use 0w20 castrol or valvoline 0w20 full synthetic with the OEM filter, which I get for like $5 in bulk from Mazda Motorsports. The oil is about $23/qt from walmart (some places it’s $28 now).

If you have the dealer do your oil, it might be cheaper if you bring in your own synthetic oil and have them use it. The markup for synthetic at a dealer is kinda high. Labor is the same.

For run of the mill car, you can get the Castrol or Valvoline 5w40 European Spec oil for like $23/quart. That will work in most german car except high performance BMW M-car or Mercedes AMG or Audi S/RS cars or Porsche. You shouldn’t be changing your own oil if you have a Porsche anyway..

[sdrealtor]

Unless your name is Frank and you have a Porsche. Then its ok LOL

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