[ucodegen]

How far behind are you in HOA dues?

You may want to check the “Davis Stirling Act”. Also consider getting an Attorney. Have them check through the act to make sure your HOA is compliant with the law. Most HOAs are currently ignoring Davis Stirling, and this can really throw a wrench in their gears – particularly the aspects with auditing and financial records.

There are many questions as to the veracity of an HOAs authority to take possession of a property, but that authority does presently exist. I can not find any ‘minimum’ lien limit on when an HOA can start proceedings for a trustee sale at present. This means they can push a trustee sale on past dues of under $10k on a property worth $900k or more.

The Davis Stirling Act issues can temporarily place a roadblock on the Trustee Sale (ie, the HOA may have to start doing internal audits if their record keeping is not up to snuff – and the fact that they may have to do audits may place the Trustee Sale on hold because of questions on record keeping). This will not make anything that is owed the HOA go away. It is still owed. It is a tactic to gain time.

NOTE: Dues owed an HOA can accrue at 12% annually at a period of 30days after they become due. Considering that the dues are secured by your property, ie a secured debt, this is a high rate – and legal.

[ucodegen]

How far behind are you in HOA dues?

You may want to check the “Davis Stirling Act”. Also consider getting an Attorney. Have them check through the act to make sure your HOA is compliant with the law. Most HOAs are currently ignoring Davis Stirling, and this can really throw a wrench in their gears – particularly the aspects with auditing and financial records.

There are many questions as to the veracity of an HOAs authority to take possession of a property, but that authority does presently exist. I can not find any ‘minimum’ lien limit on when an HOA can start proceedings for a trustee sale at present. This means they can push a trustee sale on past dues of under $10k on a property worth $900k or more.

The Davis Stirling Act issues can temporarily place a roadblock on the Trustee Sale (ie, the HOA may have to start doing internal audits if their record keeping is not up to snuff – and the fact that they may have to do audits may place the Trustee Sale on hold because of questions on record keeping). This will not make anything that is owed the HOA go away. It is still owed. It is a tactic to gain time.

NOTE: Dues owed an HOA can accrue at 12% annually at a period of 30days after they become due. Considering that the dues are secured by your property, ie a secured debt, this is a high rate – and legal.

[ucodegen]

How far behind are you in HOA dues?

You may want to check the “Davis Stirling Act”. Also consider getting an Attorney. Have them check through the act to make sure your HOA is compliant with the law. Most HOAs are currently ignoring Davis Stirling, and this can really throw a wrench in their gears – particularly the aspects with auditing and financial records.

There are many questions as to the veracity of an HOAs authority to take possession of a property, but that authority does presently exist. I can not find any ‘minimum’ lien limit on when an HOA can start proceedings for a trustee sale at present. This means they can push a trustee sale on past dues of under $10k on a property worth $900k or more.

The Davis Stirling Act issues can temporarily place a roadblock on the Trustee Sale (ie, the HOA may have to start doing internal audits if their record keeping is not up to snuff – and the fact that they may have to do audits may place the Trustee Sale on hold because of questions on record keeping). This will not make anything that is owed the HOA go away. It is still owed. It is a tactic to gain time.

NOTE: Dues owed an HOA can accrue at 12% annually at a period of 30days after they become due. Considering that the dues are secured by your property, ie a secured debt, this is a high rate – and legal.

[ucodegen]

[quote=Rustico]I think taking up the carpet and using new full head screw is the best fix unless the oringinal sub-floor intallation was so sloppy that you can’t get both good plywood and good joist with a screw.[/quote]
I had to deal with this with a house we had to sell. The contractor missed the edges of the plywood vs floor joist AND didn’t get the tongue and grove on the edges locked together (end gap). This was compounded with the floor spacing being 16″ on center. Ended up putting 2x3s screwed parallel(sister’d) into the joists and then screwing down the loose end of the floor to the 2×3. The ends were fixed by crippling the floor joists at the gap with cut 4×4 posts fit between the joists and adding a short 2×4 cut and screwed into the floor joist to help support the 4×4 sections.

[ucodegen]

[quote=Rustico]I think taking up the carpet and using new full head screw is the best fix unless the oringinal sub-floor intallation was so sloppy that you can’t get both good plywood and good joist with a screw.[/quote]
I had to deal with this with a house we had to sell. The contractor missed the edges of the plywood vs floor joist AND didn’t get the tongue and grove on the edges locked together (end gap). This was compounded with the floor spacing being 16″ on center. Ended up putting 2x3s screwed parallel(sister’d) into the joists and then screwing down the loose end of the floor to the 2×3. The ends were fixed by crippling the floor joists at the gap with cut 4×4 posts fit between the joists and adding a short 2×4 cut and screwed into the floor joist to help support the 4×4 sections.

[ucodegen]

[quote=Rustico]I think taking up the carpet and using new full head screw is the best fix unless the oringinal sub-floor intallation was so sloppy that you can’t get both good plywood and good joist with a screw.[/quote]
I had to deal with this with a house we had to sell. The contractor missed the edges of the plywood vs floor joist AND didn’t get the tongue and grove on the edges locked together (end gap). This was compounded with the floor spacing being 16″ on center. Ended up putting 2x3s screwed parallel(sister’d) into the joists and then screwing down the loose end of the floor to the 2×3. The ends were fixed by crippling the floor joists at the gap with cut 4×4 posts fit between the joists and adding a short 2×4 cut and screwed into the floor joist to help support the 4×4 sections.

[ucodegen]

[quote=Rustico]I think taking up the carpet and using new full head screw is the best fix unless the oringinal sub-floor intallation was so sloppy that you can’t get both good plywood and good joist with a screw.[/quote]
I had to deal with this with a house we had to sell. The contractor missed the edges of the plywood vs floor joist AND didn’t get the tongue and grove on the edges locked together (end gap). This was compounded with the floor spacing being 16″ on center. Ended up putting 2x3s screwed parallel(sister’d) into the joists and then screwing down the loose end of the floor to the 2×3. The ends were fixed by crippling the floor joists at the gap with cut 4×4 posts fit between the joists and adding a short 2×4 cut and screwed into the floor joist to help support the 4×4 sections.

[ucodegen]

[quote=Rustico]I think taking up the carpet and using new full head screw is the best fix unless the oringinal sub-floor intallation was so sloppy that you can’t get both good plywood and good joist with a screw.[/quote]
I had to deal with this with a house we had to sell. The contractor missed the edges of the plywood vs floor joist AND didn’t get the tongue and grove on the edges locked together (end gap). This was compounded with the floor spacing being 16″ on center. Ended up putting 2x3s screwed parallel(sister’d) into the joists and then screwing down the loose end of the floor to the 2×3. The ends were fixed by crippling the floor joists at the gap with cut 4×4 posts fit between the joists and adding a short 2×4 cut and screwed into the floor joist to help support the 4×4 sections.

[ucodegen]

If you have a metal detector or can borrow one, it will help you locate where the floor joists are. You will be looking for where the previous nails were sunk into the flooring. You’ll need to locate them as accurately as possible and mark them (ie; placing something on the spot). When you get several, you should see it forming a line. That line should be where the joist is. Spacing between joists is 12inches or 16inches, depending on size of joist. One has to realize though, that this may not be very successful in locating where the joist is because the squeak may be caused by the fact that the contractor missed the joist when nailing the floor. Normally they use ribbed nails when doing this. These nails don’t back out and they are a royal @#$%@! to pull out if you have to. Stud finders use ultrasound, which the carpet will absorb. The ‘hammer’ technique mentioned below – kind of works through carpet.

[quote MANmom]You simply drive the screw into the subfloor, then using a tool like a screwdriver, you break off the mushroom head of the screw, leaving the first head in the subfloor and under the carpet and you can’t see it…simple fix! [/quote]
The problem with this is;

[ucodegen]

If you have a metal detector or can borrow one, it will help you locate where the floor joists are. You will be looking for where the previous nails were sunk into the flooring. You’ll need to locate them as accurately as possible and mark them (ie; placing something on the spot). When you get several, you should see it forming a line. That line should be where the joist is. Spacing between joists is 12inches or 16inches, depending on size of joist. One has to realize though, that this may not be very successful in locating where the joist is because the squeak may be caused by the fact that the contractor missed the joist when nailing the floor. Normally they use ribbed nails when doing this. These nails don’t back out and they are a royal @#$%@! to pull out if you have to. Stud finders use ultrasound, which the carpet will absorb. The ‘hammer’ technique mentioned below – kind of works through carpet.

[quote MANmom]You simply drive the screw into the subfloor, then using a tool like a screwdriver, you break off the mushroom head of the screw, leaving the first head in the subfloor and under the carpet and you can’t see it…simple fix! [/quote]
The problem with this is;

Makes it harder to pull up the mat under the carpet if the carpet is going to be replaced

Leaves potentially sharp ends under the carpet, that you might step on

May leave the appearance of dimples in the carpet because the screw may end up compressing the mat under the carpet

If it is important, I would look at pulling up the carpet. In fact, if you have old carpet – replacing it will help you get a better price on the house. When the carpet is up, you will be able to see where the nails were placed. Stud finders should then work as well. You can also rap(not drive) the floor with the hammer. It will sound different when you are on top of a joist and the hammer will want to bounce back a bit.

[ucodegen]

If you have a metal detector or can borrow one, it will help you locate where the floor joists are. You will be looking for where the previous nails were sunk into the flooring. You’ll need to locate them as accurately as possible and mark them (ie; placing something on the spot). When you get several, you should see it forming a line. That line should be where the joist is. Spacing between joists is 12inches or 16inches, depending on size of joist. One has to realize though, that this may not be very successful in locating where the joist is because the squeak may be caused by the fact that the contractor missed the joist when nailing the floor. Normally they use ribbed nails when doing this. These nails don’t back out and they are a royal @#$%@! to pull out if you have to. Stud finders use ultrasound, which the carpet will absorb. The ‘hammer’ technique mentioned below – kind of works through carpet.

[quote MANmom]You simply drive the screw into the subfloor, then using a tool like a screwdriver, you break off the mushroom head of the screw, leaving the first head in the subfloor and under the carpet and you can’t see it…simple fix! [/quote]
The problem with this is;

Makes it harder to pull up the mat under the carpet if the carpet is going to be replaced

Leaves potentially sharp ends under the carpet, that you might step on

May leave the appearance of dimples in the carpet because the screw may end up compressing the mat under the carpet

If it is important, I would look at pulling up the carpet. In fact, if you have old carpet – replacing it will help you get a better price on the house. When the carpet is up, you will be able to see where the nails were placed. Stud finders should then work as well. You can also rap(not drive) the floor with the hammer. It will sound different when you are on top of a joist and the hammer will want to bounce back a bit.

[ucodegen]

If you have a metal detector or can borrow one, it will help you locate where the floor joists are. You will be looking for where the previous nails were sunk into the flooring. You’ll need to locate them as accurately as possible and mark them (ie; placing something on the spot). When you get several, you should see it forming a line. That line should be where the joist is. Spacing between joists is 12inches or 16inches, depending on size of joist. One has to realize though, that this may not be very successful in locating where the joist is because the squeak may be caused by the fact that the contractor missed the joist when nailing the floor. Normally they use ribbed nails when doing this. These nails don’t back out and they are a royal @#$%@! to pull out if you have to. Stud finders use ultrasound, which the carpet will absorb. The ‘hammer’ technique mentioned below – kind of works through carpet.

[quote MANmom]You simply drive the screw into the subfloor, then using a tool like a screwdriver, you break off the mushroom head of the screw, leaving the first head in the subfloor and under the carpet and you can’t see it…simple fix! [/quote]
The problem with this is;

Makes it harder to pull up the mat under the carpet if the carpet is going to be replaced

Leaves potentially sharp ends under the carpet, that you might step on

May leave the appearance of dimples in the carpet because the screw may end up compressing the mat under the carpet

If it is important, I would look at pulling up the carpet. In fact, if you have old carpet – replacing it will help you get a better price on the house. When the carpet is up, you will be able to see where the nails were placed. Stud finders should then work as well. You can also rap(not drive) the floor with the hammer. It will sound different when you are on top of a joist and the hammer will want to bounce back a bit.

[ucodegen]

If you have a metal detector or can borrow one, it will help you locate where the floor joists are. You will be looking for where the previous nails were sunk into the flooring. You’ll need to locate them as accurately as possible and mark them (ie; placing something on the spot). When you get several, you should see it forming a line. That line should be where the joist is. Spacing between joists is 12inches or 16inches, depending on size of joist. One has to realize though, that this may not be very successful in locating where the joist is because the squeak may be caused by the fact that the contractor missed the joist when nailing the floor. Normally they use ribbed nails when doing this. These nails don’t back out and they are a royal @#$%@! to pull out if you have to. Stud finders use ultrasound, which the carpet will absorb. The ‘hammer’ technique mentioned below – kind of works through carpet.

[quote MANmom]You simply drive the screw into the subfloor, then using a tool like a screwdriver, you break off the mushroom head of the screw, leaving the first head in the subfloor and under the carpet and you can’t see it…simple fix! [/quote]
The problem with this is;

Makes it harder to pull up the mat under the carpet if the carpet is going to be replaced

Leaves potentially sharp ends under the carpet, that you might step on

May leave the appearance of dimples in the carpet because the screw may end up compressing the mat under the carpet

If it is important, I would look at pulling up the carpet. In fact, if you have old carpet – replacing it will help you get a better price on the house. When the carpet is up, you will be able to see where the nails were placed. Stud finders should then work as well. You can also rap(not drive) the floor with the hammer. It will sound different when you are on top of a joist and the hammer will want to bounce back a bit.

[ucodegen]

[quote Eugene]The correct unit to measure fallout is becquerels per square meter or curies per square kilometer.[/quote]

Yes and no. Both Becquerel and Curies relate to decay rate. There is no relation to the damage of human tissue, nor to the amount of energy delivered to target – which relate to Rads, Rems(roentgen) or Sieverts. Both of these measurements (Becquerel, Curies ) map directly to readings on unshielded counters (moment you start shielding the counter, you are considering energy).

The measures that are important to human ‘survivability’ are based in Rads/Rems because they also account for the potential tissue damage.

[quote Eugene]At the very least, they would want to use rads per hour. [/quote]Definitely. Or better Rems/hr because it takes into account the potential of the particular type of radiation to cause tissue damage.

Came across a good info source on Radiation:
http://users.rcn.com/jkimball.ma.ultranet/BiologyPages/R/Radiation.html
Half way down, has a comparative between different sources, including 3-mile island and Chernobyl.

[ucodegen]

[quote Eugene]The correct unit to measure fallout is becquerels per square meter or curies per square kilometer.[/quote]

Yes and no. Both Becquerel and Curies relate to decay rate. There is no relation to the damage of human tissue, nor to the amount of energy delivered to target – which relate to Rads, Rems(roentgen) or Sieverts. Both of these measurements (Becquerel, Curies ) map directly to readings on unshielded counters (moment you start shielding the counter, you are considering energy).

The measures that are important to human ‘survivability’ are based in Rads/Rems because they also account for the potential tissue damage.

[quote Eugene]At the very least, they would want to use rads per hour. [/quote]Definitely. Or better Rems/hr because it takes into account the potential of the particular type of radiation to cause tissue damage.

Came across a good info source on Radiation:
http://users.rcn.com/jkimball.ma.ultranet/BiologyPages/R/Radiation.html
Half way down, has a comparative between different sources, including 3-mile island and Chernobyl.

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