[SK in CV]

[quote=martink110] I got my puppy at 5 weeks, no problem with potty training. Some breeds are ‘cleaner’ than others. ([/quote]

I agree completely that some breeds are cleaner than others. My big Akita, as dumb as he is, is like a cat. Festidious about his grooming. Perfers walking on the clean floor inside than on dirt. That’s one of many behavior problems with many terriers, they don’t seem to give a shit where they shit.

On the 5 week thing. Housebreaking is only 1 of the many many possible problems. Generally, 5 weeks is just way too early. Puppies learn NOTHING the first 3 or 4 weeks of life. Half of that, their eyes aren’t even open. They eat, eliminate and sleep. Then learn how to walk, run and that’s about it. All of their socialization learning comes after 4 weeks. They learn to vocalize and what their various vocalizations mean to other dogs. They learn about canine hierarchy. What I call doggy manners. This is a key component in how a dog will relate to you, other members of your household, other people and other dogs. It is stuff that is virtually impossible to teach outside of the litter setting.

Dogs separated at 5 weeks, as compared to those separated at 8 weeks or later, tend to be skittish, very hard to socialize with other dogs or pets, agressive towards strangers, not good with small children, and often inconsistent in learning desired behaviors because they have an incomplete imprinting of hierarchial standards. They also tend to lick incessantly.

It’s not an absolute. There are dogs separated at 5 weeks with none of these behavior problems. And some owners will never notice them as problems. But the likelihood of problems is so much greater, there is simply no good reason to ever take the risk. (As a disclaimer here, I have to admit, my assistant dog was separated at some time before 5 weeks. She was a rescue from the mean streets of Rosarito, where she was abandoned. She is a good dog, but has many of these undesirable traits. I can’t trust her alone with small children. Can’t take her to a dog park. Has no clue where she fits into her pack. If she hadn’t been rescued by the daughter of a former dog trainer, I doubt she would have survived.)

[SK in CV]

[quote=martink110] I got my puppy at 5 weeks, no problem with potty training. Some breeds are ‘cleaner’ than others. ([/quote]

I agree completely that some breeds are cleaner than others. My big Akita, as dumb as he is, is like a cat. Festidious about his grooming. Perfers walking on the clean floor inside than on dirt. That’s one of many behavior problems with many terriers, they don’t seem to give a shit where they shit.

On the 5 week thing. Housebreaking is only 1 of the many many possible problems. Generally, 5 weeks is just way too early. Puppies learn NOTHING the first 3 or 4 weeks of life. Half of that, their eyes aren’t even open. They eat, eliminate and sleep. Then learn how to walk, run and that’s about it. All of their socialization learning comes after 4 weeks. They learn to vocalize and what their various vocalizations mean to other dogs. They learn about canine hierarchy. What I call doggy manners. This is a key component in how a dog will relate to you, other members of your household, other people and other dogs. It is stuff that is virtually impossible to teach outside of the litter setting.

Dogs separated at 5 weeks, as compared to those separated at 8 weeks or later, tend to be skittish, very hard to socialize with other dogs or pets, agressive towards strangers, not good with small children, and often inconsistent in learning desired behaviors because they have an incomplete imprinting of hierarchial standards. They also tend to lick incessantly.

It’s not an absolute. There are dogs separated at 5 weeks with none of these behavior problems. And some owners will never notice them as problems. But the likelihood of problems is so much greater, there is simply no good reason to ever take the risk. (As a disclaimer here, I have to admit, my assistant dog was separated at some time before 5 weeks. She was a rescue from the mean streets of Rosarito, where she was abandoned. She is a good dog, but has many of these undesirable traits. I can’t trust her alone with small children. Can’t take her to a dog park. Has no clue where she fits into her pack. If she hadn’t been rescued by the daughter of a former dog trainer, I doubt she would have survived.)

[SK in CV]

[quote=martink110] I got my puppy at 5 weeks, no problem with potty training. Some breeds are ‘cleaner’ than others. ([/quote]

I agree completely that some breeds are cleaner than others. My big Akita, as dumb as he is, is like a cat. Festidious about his grooming. Perfers walking on the clean floor inside than on dirt. That’s one of many behavior problems with many terriers, they don’t seem to give a shit where they shit.

On the 5 week thing. Housebreaking is only 1 of the many many possible problems. Generally, 5 weeks is just way too early. Puppies learn NOTHING the first 3 or 4 weeks of life. Half of that, their eyes aren’t even open. They eat, eliminate and sleep. Then learn how to walk, run and that’s about it. All of their socialization learning comes after 4 weeks. They learn to vocalize and what their various vocalizations mean to other dogs. They learn about canine hierarchy. What I call doggy manners. This is a key component in how a dog will relate to you, other members of your household, other people and other dogs. It is stuff that is virtually impossible to teach outside of the litter setting.

Dogs separated at 5 weeks, as compared to those separated at 8 weeks or later, tend to be skittish, very hard to socialize with other dogs or pets, agressive towards strangers, not good with small children, and often inconsistent in learning desired behaviors because they have an incomplete imprinting of hierarchial standards. They also tend to lick incessantly.

It’s not an absolute. There are dogs separated at 5 weeks with none of these behavior problems. And some owners will never notice them as problems. But the likelihood of problems is so much greater, there is simply no good reason to ever take the risk. (As a disclaimer here, I have to admit, my assistant dog was separated at some time before 5 weeks. She was a rescue from the mean streets of Rosarito, where she was abandoned. She is a good dog, but has many of these undesirable traits. I can’t trust her alone with small children. Can’t take her to a dog park. Has no clue where she fits into her pack. If she hadn’t been rescued by the daughter of a former dog trainer, I doubt she would have survived.)

[SK in CV]

[quote=martink110] I got my puppy at 5 weeks, no problem with potty training. Some breeds are ‘cleaner’ than others. ([/quote]

I agree completely that some breeds are cleaner than others. My big Akita, as dumb as he is, is like a cat. Festidious about his grooming. Perfers walking on the clean floor inside than on dirt. That’s one of many behavior problems with many terriers, they don’t seem to give a shit where they shit.

On the 5 week thing. Housebreaking is only 1 of the many many possible problems. Generally, 5 weeks is just way too early. Puppies learn NOTHING the first 3 or 4 weeks of life. Half of that, their eyes aren’t even open. They eat, eliminate and sleep. Then learn how to walk, run and that’s about it. All of their socialization learning comes after 4 weeks. They learn to vocalize and what their various vocalizations mean to other dogs. They learn about canine hierarchy. What I call doggy manners. This is a key component in how a dog will relate to you, other members of your household, other people and other dogs. It is stuff that is virtually impossible to teach outside of the litter setting.

Dogs separated at 5 weeks, as compared to those separated at 8 weeks or later, tend to be skittish, very hard to socialize with other dogs or pets, agressive towards strangers, not good with small children, and often inconsistent in learning desired behaviors because they have an incomplete imprinting of hierarchial standards. They also tend to lick incessantly.

It’s not an absolute. There are dogs separated at 5 weeks with none of these behavior problems. And some owners will never notice them as problems. But the likelihood of problems is so much greater, there is simply no good reason to ever take the risk. (As a disclaimer here, I have to admit, my assistant dog was separated at some time before 5 weeks. She was a rescue from the mean streets of Rosarito, where she was abandoned. She is a good dog, but has many of these undesirable traits. I can’t trust her alone with small children. Can’t take her to a dog park. Has no clue where she fits into her pack. If she hadn’t been rescued by the daughter of a former dog trainer, I doubt she would have survived.)

[SK in CV]

With most breeds, if done properly, house-breaking should take no more than a few days (maybe less).

First, do NOT get a puppy that is less than 8 weeks old, nor one that was separated from its mother before 8 weeks. Important. Not ONE day before 8 weeks. (That’s only peripherally related to house-breaking, but more important for other behavioral issues.)

Bring the puppy home on a day when you have at least a few days to NEVER leave the puppy alone. Those first few days can be essential to your relationship with the dog for the rest of her life.

Before you bring her home, figure out a place where you WANT her to go. It is much easier to train her to go where you want than to train her to not go where you don’t want her to go. Do not put newspaper down inside your house, for her to use as a toilet, unless you really want to teach her to pee inside. (The downright stupidest training aid ever.)

The first few days you have her, take her to her pee spot at least every couple hours, including shortly after she eats. When she goes, praise her profusely. (Most everyone will naturally use a high voice when praising. That’s a good thing. High pitched noises is what her mother used to communicate with her.) Be happy when you do it. She will know you are happy.

If she doesn’t go, and it’s been less than a few hours, it is possible (though unlikely) that she just doesn’t have to. Take her back inside and watch her like a hawk. If she squats inside, pick her up immediately and take her outside to her pee spot and repeat instructions above.

At 8 weeks old she should be ok for 6 hours or so at night, but not much more than that. Make sure she goes at least once after her evening meal, and no water after she goes the last time before bed time. Rinse and repeat for 3 days.

Every time she successfully pees in the house without you catching her in the act and moving her to the right spot will extend the time it takes to permanently house-break her. If you catch her the first time, take her outside and she pees outside, it may be the last time she ever pees in the house.

If you get frustrated because she hasn’t gone for awhile and you just know she needs to, roll her over on her back and shake her tummy. That will make her go. But don’t do this unless its been at least a few hours since she went last.

If you get a dachshund or a small terrier, these instructions probably won’t work. So don’t get one.

As far as crating, eh. A lot of trainers sware by it. If you can make it work, it sure is convenient. But I have seen some recommended methods out there that I just hate. Some are very acceptable.

[SK in CV]

With most breeds, if done properly, house-breaking should take no more than a few days (maybe less).

First, do NOT get a puppy that is less than 8 weeks old, nor one that was separated from its mother before 8 weeks. Important. Not ONE day before 8 weeks. (That’s only peripherally related to house-breaking, but more important for other behavioral issues.)

Bring the puppy home on a day when you have at least a few days to NEVER leave the puppy alone. Those first few days can be essential to your relationship with the dog for the rest of her life.

Before you bring her home, figure out a place where you WANT her to go. It is much easier to train her to go where you want than to train her to not go where you don’t want her to go. Do not put newspaper down inside your house, for her to use as a toilet, unless you really want to teach her to pee inside. (The downright stupidest training aid ever.)

The first few days you have her, take her to her pee spot at least every couple hours, including shortly after she eats. When she goes, praise her profusely. (Most everyone will naturally use a high voice when praising. That’s a good thing. High pitched noises is what her mother used to communicate with her.) Be happy when you do it. She will know you are happy.

If she doesn’t go, and it’s been less than a few hours, it is possible (though unlikely) that she just doesn’t have to. Take her back inside and watch her like a hawk. If she squats inside, pick her up immediately and take her outside to her pee spot and repeat instructions above.

At 8 weeks old she should be ok for 6 hours or so at night, but not much more than that. Make sure she goes at least once after her evening meal, and no water after she goes the last time before bed time. Rinse and repeat for 3 days.

Every time she successfully pees in the house without you catching her in the act and moving her to the right spot will extend the time it takes to permanently house-break her. If you catch her the first time, take her outside and she pees outside, it may be the last time she ever pees in the house.

If you get frustrated because she hasn’t gone for awhile and you just know she needs to, roll her over on her back and shake her tummy. That will make her go. But don’t do this unless its been at least a few hours since she went last.

If you get a dachshund or a small terrier, these instructions probably won’t work. So don’t get one.

As far as crating, eh. A lot of trainers sware by it. If you can make it work, it sure is convenient. But I have seen some recommended methods out there that I just hate. Some are very acceptable.

[SK in CV]

With most breeds, if done properly, house-breaking should take no more than a few days (maybe less).

First, do NOT get a puppy that is less than 8 weeks old, nor one that was separated from its mother before 8 weeks. Important. Not ONE day before 8 weeks. (That’s only peripherally related to house-breaking, but more important for other behavioral issues.)

Bring the puppy home on a day when you have at least a few days to NEVER leave the puppy alone. Those first few days can be essential to your relationship with the dog for the rest of her life.

Before you bring her home, figure out a place where you WANT her to go. It is much easier to train her to go where you want than to train her to not go where you don’t want her to go. Do not put newspaper down inside your house, for her to use as a toilet, unless you really want to teach her to pee inside. (The downright stupidest training aid ever.)

The first few days you have her, take her to her pee spot at least every couple hours, including shortly after she eats. When she goes, praise her profusely. (Most everyone will naturally use a high voice when praising. That’s a good thing. High pitched noises is what her mother used to communicate with her.) Be happy when you do it. She will know you are happy.

If she doesn’t go, and it’s been less than a few hours, it is possible (though unlikely) that she just doesn’t have to. Take her back inside and watch her like a hawk. If she squats inside, pick her up immediately and take her outside to her pee spot and repeat instructions above.

At 8 weeks old she should be ok for 6 hours or so at night, but not much more than that. Make sure she goes at least once after her evening meal, and no water after she goes the last time before bed time. Rinse and repeat for 3 days.

Every time she successfully pees in the house without you catching her in the act and moving her to the right spot will extend the time it takes to permanently house-break her. If you catch her the first time, take her outside and she pees outside, it may be the last time she ever pees in the house.

If you get frustrated because she hasn’t gone for awhile and you just know she needs to, roll her over on her back and shake her tummy. That will make her go. But don’t do this unless its been at least a few hours since she went last.

If you get a dachshund or a small terrier, these instructions probably won’t work. So don’t get one.

As far as crating, eh. A lot of trainers sware by it. If you can make it work, it sure is convenient. But I have seen some recommended methods out there that I just hate. Some are very acceptable.

[SK in CV]

With most breeds, if done properly, house-breaking should take no more than a few days (maybe less).

First, do NOT get a puppy that is less than 8 weeks old, nor one that was separated from its mother before 8 weeks. Important. Not ONE day before 8 weeks. (That’s only peripherally related to house-breaking, but more important for other behavioral issues.)

Bring the puppy home on a day when you have at least a few days to NEVER leave the puppy alone. Those first few days can be essential to your relationship with the dog for the rest of her life.

Before you bring her home, figure out a place where you WANT her to go. It is much easier to train her to go where you want than to train her to not go where you don’t want her to go. Do not put newspaper down inside your house, for her to use as a toilet, unless you really want to teach her to pee inside. (The downright stupidest training aid ever.)

The first few days you have her, take her to her pee spot at least every couple hours, including shortly after she eats. When she goes, praise her profusely. (Most everyone will naturally use a high voice when praising. That’s a good thing. High pitched noises is what her mother used to communicate with her.) Be happy when you do it. She will know you are happy.

If she doesn’t go, and it’s been less than a few hours, it is possible (though unlikely) that she just doesn’t have to. Take her back inside and watch her like a hawk. If she squats inside, pick her up immediately and take her outside to her pee spot and repeat instructions above.

At 8 weeks old she should be ok for 6 hours or so at night, but not much more than that. Make sure she goes at least once after her evening meal, and no water after she goes the last time before bed time. Rinse and repeat for 3 days.

Every time she successfully pees in the house without you catching her in the act and moving her to the right spot will extend the time it takes to permanently house-break her. If you catch her the first time, take her outside and she pees outside, it may be the last time she ever pees in the house.

If you get frustrated because she hasn’t gone for awhile and you just know she needs to, roll her over on her back and shake her tummy. That will make her go. But don’t do this unless its been at least a few hours since she went last.

If you get a dachshund or a small terrier, these instructions probably won’t work. So don’t get one.

As far as crating, eh. A lot of trainers sware by it. If you can make it work, it sure is convenient. But I have seen some recommended methods out there that I just hate. Some are very acceptable.

[SK in CV]

With most breeds, if done properly, house-breaking should take no more than a few days (maybe less).

First, do NOT get a puppy that is less than 8 weeks old, nor one that was separated from its mother before 8 weeks. Important. Not ONE day before 8 weeks. (That’s only peripherally related to house-breaking, but more important for other behavioral issues.)

Bring the puppy home on a day when you have at least a few days to NEVER leave the puppy alone. Those first few days can be essential to your relationship with the dog for the rest of her life.

Before you bring her home, figure out a place where you WANT her to go. It is much easier to train her to go where you want than to train her to not go where you don’t want her to go. Do not put newspaper down inside your house, for her to use as a toilet, unless you really want to teach her to pee inside. (The downright stupidest training aid ever.)

The first few days you have her, take her to her pee spot at least every couple hours, including shortly after she eats. When she goes, praise her profusely. (Most everyone will naturally use a high voice when praising. That’s a good thing. High pitched noises is what her mother used to communicate with her.) Be happy when you do it. She will know you are happy.

If she doesn’t go, and it’s been less than a few hours, it is possible (though unlikely) that she just doesn’t have to. Take her back inside and watch her like a hawk. If she squats inside, pick her up immediately and take her outside to her pee spot and repeat instructions above.

At 8 weeks old she should be ok for 6 hours or so at night, but not much more than that. Make sure she goes at least once after her evening meal, and no water after she goes the last time before bed time. Rinse and repeat for 3 days.

Every time she successfully pees in the house without you catching her in the act and moving her to the right spot will extend the time it takes to permanently house-break her. If you catch her the first time, take her outside and she pees outside, it may be the last time she ever pees in the house.

If you get frustrated because she hasn’t gone for awhile and you just know she needs to, roll her over on her back and shake her tummy. That will make her go. But don’t do this unless its been at least a few hours since she went last.

If you get a dachshund or a small terrier, these instructions probably won’t work. So don’t get one.

As far as crating, eh. A lot of trainers sware by it. If you can make it work, it sure is convenient. But I have seen some recommended methods out there that I just hate. Some are very acceptable.

[SK in CV]

Over/under for Assange’s life expectancy is probably pretty low about now. Something less than now to early next year. F’ing with the government and the military is one thing, but big business is a whole different story. Fascinating stuff, click through and read the whole interview.

[SK in CV]

Over/under for Assange’s life expectancy is probably pretty low about now. Something less than now to early next year. F’ing with the government and the military is one thing, but big business is a whole different story. Fascinating stuff, click through and read the whole interview.

[SK in CV]

Over/under for Assange’s life expectancy is probably pretty low about now. Something less than now to early next year. F’ing with the government and the military is one thing, but big business is a whole different story. Fascinating stuff, click through and read the whole interview.

[SK in CV]

Over/under for Assange’s life expectancy is probably pretty low about now. Something less than now to early next year. F’ing with the government and the military is one thing, but big business is a whole different story. Fascinating stuff, click through and read the whole interview.

[SK in CV]

Over/under for Assange’s life expectancy is probably pretty low about now. Something less than now to early next year. F’ing with the government and the military is one thing, but big business is a whole different story. Fascinating stuff, click through and read the whole interview.

[SK in CV]

[quote=bearishgurl]

I understand that these banks knew borrowers couldn’t pay when they loaned them the money. But I am failing to understand, in the absence of PMI, how they thought they could fare better by foreclosing, so made these marginal loans. In hindsight, the banks had no way of knowing back in 2003 (when rampant “loose lending” began) that they would be “bailed out” by the Feds.

[/quote]

Good comment. I agree with you on MERS not going away, at least in CA. Other states could be very problematic. I’m not sure if the standing issue could be a problem in CA. (More on MERS later)

As far as the banks (or more precisely, the lenders, because most were NOT banks) faring better with foreclosure, I think he’s just wrong on that. Many lenders had little risk (as compared to the volume of loans they were originating) because they unloaded the loans almost as fast as they could fund them. For their held inventory, some purchased CDS’s to cover the risk. It’s the loan servicers that fare better with foreclosure. He is correct to the extent they were the same party (Countrywide, now BofA comes to mind.).

Nationwide, MERS is still a potentially huge problem on probably 1/2 a dozen different fronts. The standing issue. The failure to record in jurisdictions which require it. The possible inability to actually locate original documents in jurisdictions which require it. The potential loss of security interests are a possibility is some jurisdictions, possibly resulting in gagillions of dollars of put-backs, and/or civil fraud claims. Investor claims for those who bought interests in REITs, where ultimately the loans end up not being secured, voiding their REIT status. The list goes on and on and on. All different possible problems, all possible nightmares. Though not specifically related to MERS, the due process issues and possible fraud related to the robo-signing, which I suspect hasn’t really stopped. (I think it was at Naked Capitalism i saw a bit about how Countrywide, as a company policy, never even attempted to forward original documents on sold loans.) All seemed like a good idea at the time. But i’s weren’t dotted, t’s not crossed.

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