- This topic has 150 replies, 15 voices, and was last updated 13 years, 3 months ago by
spdrun.
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August 4, 2012 at 8:36 PM #749485August 4, 2012 at 10:56 PM #749489
spdrun
Participantflu – I’m pretty sure I for one won’t regret not buying a f**king appliance like an Accord. The “old age” argument falls flat unless he gets a Tesla Roadster, Vette, or something overpowered, silly, classic, or any combo of the three.
August 4, 2012 at 11:07 PM #749490paramount
Participant[quote=squat250]im only afraid if I don’t buy a new car I’ll have an accident and get hurt.
I promise not to regret holding on for any other reason.[/quote]
You hit the nail right right on the head. Holding on to an old old car could be a false economy.
All it takes is one accident, and a new car will very very likely improve your chances of avoiding injury or worse. Or even avoiding an accident altogether.
It’s insurance. Cars are safer today than they were, maybe even just 5 years ago, not to mention 10 or more years.
You can and will get more money.
You can’t replace…well, you know where this is going I’m sure.
I got rid of a perfectly good minivan because I didn’t like my son having to sit in the 3rd row (essentially no crush zone).
If anything you should be scared of not having a modern safe car given the way people drive in so cal.
August 4, 2012 at 11:08 PM #749491briansd1
GuestYou can now lease a Honda Civic for $99 per month. Not a bad deal if you drive less than 12,000 miles per year.
Including down-payment of $3,500, lease payments and taxes and license, it works out to about $250 per month for 3 years.
I have a friend who drives little but needs to have a car. She got that one.
Remember, if you buy a car outright, you still need to pay sales taxes and annual registration/property taxes.
August 4, 2012 at 11:34 PM #749492ParticipantI’d personally fall asleep and drive off a bridge driving an Accord. Same goes for a new Camry. Had one as a rental, ick. So safe and baw-ring that it’d probably kill me.
If I go new-ish, I’m going BR-Z. Or Tesla. Or Boxster. Maybe even a nice Miata with a turbo. Perhaps a SmartCar with Hayabusa engine. Anything but a bloody appliance marketed to terminal nancy worrywarts.
But hey, at least it’s not a fake-truck cutie-utie that’s designed to make soccer moooommies feel like they’re driving a UPS truck.
Lastly, I’ve sold quite a few cars and bikes that I bought used at a nice profit. Generally enough to cover insurance, registration, misc taxes paid, and repairs. Making my avg monthly payment pretty dern close to nada.
The diesel is sort of slow, but the Miata and Saab 900turbo were both a riot to drive, especially after the latter’s boost regulation computer was appropriately adjusted.
August 4, 2012 at 11:49 PM #749494ParticipantI would think a V6 Accord or Camry would be pretty exciting to drive.
Not a 335, but still a nice ride.
When asked I always suggest that car buyers who live in the west go for the larger engine.
Lot’s of mountains and non turbo/super charged engines can lose significant power @ higher altitudes.
Almost can’t have to much power in the mountain west.
August 5, 2012 at 12:16 AM #749495ParticipantPersonally: give me a manual or even a dual-clutch turbo-4 over a V-6 with a slushbox. Neither Camry nor Accord V-6 can be had with a real gearbox. Nor is the correct set of wheels driven 🙂
BTW, even a low-power turbo engine solves the mountain driving problem, since input pressure stays basically constant once the turbo is spooled. Far better than the Neanderthal solution of mo’ cylinderz, mo’ displacements, dawg.
I don’t get the “need more HP to merge” argument either. Ever seen many East Coast highways? No acceleration ramps to speak of, yet I’ve done fine with anything ranging from 70 hp up to 250 hp.
August 5, 2012 at 7:48 AM #749498scaredyclassic
Participantpersonally, ive never felt or experienced any need to go faster.
slow is beautiful.
i did attempt to buy one yesterday but was thwarted by the failure to agree on a price. We got stuck about $600.00 apart. I felt misled by a dealer’s promise to beat another dealer’s quote. I’d rather not go into the details of who and what, but…perhaps the internet hasn’t changed everything. I thought we had an agreement in principle and they thought I was just another dude to work over with four square boxes (although they put that away pretty fast when I told them to…) and repeat trips to the back room to implore their manager to sell a car.
Ah well…
August 5, 2012 at 8:47 AM #749500ParticipantIf the dealer lied, you SHOULD post their name. **** ’em. And the answer to “I’ll speak to my manager” is simple … “If you can’t make a decision on price, then bring out the manager who can or I’m leaving in five.”
Also, if you’re arguing about $600, you might not want a new car all that much. Get a decent used car for $4000-5000, stick it on a 2-yr promo card for a low rate, and be done with it.
August 5, 2012 at 10:43 AM #749505
CoronitaParticipant[quote=squat250]personally, ive never felt or experienced any need to go faster.
slow is beautiful.
i did attempt to buy one yesterday but was thwarted by the failure to agree on a price. We got stuck about $600.00 apart. I felt misled by a dealer’s promise to beat another dealer’s quote. I’d rather not go into the details of who and what, but…perhaps the internet hasn’t changed everything. I thought we had an agreement in principle and they thought I was just another dude to work over with four square boxes (although they put that away pretty fast when I told them to…) and repeat trips to the back room to implore their manager to sell a car.
Ah well…[/quote]
Scardey..don’t step inside a dealership without an email/contract with out the door price already in hand.
Go back to the thread I talked about. You should be able to do everything over email these days. When I dealt with buying cars, I had the internet sales/fleet sales email a price quote. And I always ask for OTD pricing telling them I live in San Diego with SD sales tax (versus L.A. county sales tax).
(Always ask for OTD pricing. One trick stealers love to play is tell you XXXX below invoice, and than tack on/pad a bunch of marketing/sales fee…Some brands might have them, but you’ll find out once you compare versus other dealers…)
Some dealers will insist on you coming in. Don’t…They’re the stealerships that are trying to get you in, wear you down, waste your time, play all these stupid “old salesman” games…Usually old salesman/women do this. Also, some salesman/women try to place the race card.. Hey I’m chinese too, I get you a good deal and even go as far as try to speak your dialect. Flu says..Um, no thank you..Unless you speaka engrisha, get me a new sales person please.
Tell them you don’t have time to waste coming in, you have 3-4 other dealers that sent your their prices over email, and if you don’t that’s fine, I won’t buy from you..More than often, they will send it. It takes no time, and if they can beat the price, they will. And if they won’t they won’t and you can move on. Because it doesn’t take much time for them to haggle…The only type of sales people I now that still employ to old “drag people into showroom” are the old fart salesman/woman who probably doesn’t even know what the internet is.
Same old fart salespeople that (if they aren’t successful in gouging you will say some bullshit like “maybe you’re too young and not ready to buy a real car”. To which, you should have no problem breaking character and say “fvck you, you old fart sales prick”…Most folks who are in the internet/sales dept don’t want to waste time haggling either because they figure they can move a lot more cars a lot more quickly via email than having someone show up in person.
Honda’s are good because there soo many dealerships. If you want a reference, I have a dealership in L.A… A classmate’s parents one’s that one i think..Before you go into the dealership, you should already have the OTD pricing agreed, the salesperson should have already faxed you the sales contract, with the exact car’s VIN and mileage. Even stupid shit like if he’s going to have to move a car from one dealer to another, you must have in writing that it will be flatbedded, not “driven” from one dealership to another by some porter….You can even put a deposit down on credit card and with the “written” note that it is fully refundable if you don’t like the car for any reason the day you show up.
Show up with your printed emails, printed invoice, etc. DO NOT ADD/CHANCE anything once you are at the dealership. Just pick up the car, make sure the vin matches, make sure the mileage is correct, and make sure there’s no body damage/etc. Say “no thank you” to the nice lady in the financing office who tries to upsell you an extended warranty, uncoating, vin etching, blah blah blah blah blah (insert your favorite bullshit pad item here)….
If the stealer deviates from the invoice they gave you, find the sales director and raise hell and threaten you have written proof and threaten to sue. Trust me, it won’t get to that point…IF you already have everything in writing…In fact, you might even throw in a hint or to that you are an attorney..That also usually does the trick…
Get it in writing before you show up at the stealership. Otherwise, you’re just wasting time.
Especially if you are buying a toyota or honda. Toyota stealerships are the worst. Honda’s are close #2.August 5, 2012 at 12:31 PM #749507ParticipantI find Honda dealers to be very proud of their honda’s – and I would avoid dch Honda in Temecula.
August 5, 2012 at 2:17 PM #749511bearishgurl
Participantscaredy, a cursory Auto Trader check of Accord EX-L (FULLY LOADED model) private party sales within 50 mi of Temecula (most in the OC) reveals these avail vehicles … for starters.
2006-2011 model years asking $14,900 to $25K. Ironically, some of the ones claiming the lowest mileage are the oldest model years! Why play games and haggle over $600 when you can have a fully loaded model where someone else paid for all the extra goodies and dealer prep?
Hint: when a PP vehicle-seller has a lien, you can get pre-approved at your bank or cc for loan in advance (if you wish to finance) and go to their lender (if local) to get their payoff from the horse’s mouth and pay them directly to consummate the transaction or arrange a wire transfer from your lender. OR, you can do the transaction from your bank during a biz day where your banking officer can get a faxed or telephonic payoff amt from the seller’s lender. The seller’s lender will then mail you (or your lender) the title in a few business days.
A PP seller often needs to get out of their vehicle loan ASAP for various reasons. Unlike the stealership, they don’t need to make a dime over that.
If what they owe is just under the PP Bluebook value and you are getting all the goodies (options) with it as well, why not go this route?
These PP sellers aren’t “trading in” because they either don’t want to replace the vehicle or must get out of the loan and can’t get enough on a trade in to do so or for both reasons.
Work it, scaredy. It’s what you do best … remember??
August 5, 2012 at 4:04 PM #749513Ren
ParticipantEdit: removed rant about penny pinching when I realized you actually made an attempt to buy something new.
My step-father-in-law is as stubborn and cheap as they come, but even he has the sense to buy a safe car. He was also t-boned in it recently, by someone even older than he is, and he walked away – which would not have happened without the side curtain airbag.
You can get invoice price, which is a decent (if not great) deal, via email without going into a dealer. Or just buy a 3-year-old Camry and forget about it.
August 5, 2012 at 4:56 PM #749514Participantbought new Accord today for $17,999 plus tax, title and reg.
Spreen Honda. They honored their carwoo.com internet price.
I’m just too scared to buy a used car. I cannot handle that risk.
And too scared suddenly to drive my old car with my kids in it.
.09% financing for 60 months.
Not .9%, but .09%. With nothing down.
I think the payment is $329.00 a month or thereabouts.
August 5, 2012 at 5:03 PM #749515ParticipantCongrats. And at least it’s not an SUV or crossdresser.
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