Buying a Car Online

[Raybyrnes]

http://www.fightingchance.com

I read this article . He is selling his service but the informaiton he provides is pretty much the system I would use if buying a new car. Unless you have a personal relationship (not a friend of a friend) at the dealerships in San Diego then you are going to ahve to head up to LA to get the best deal.

[djrobsd]

See, first I was making a blanket statement, and now you’re trying to do the same thing.

Yes, perhaps if you find the right deal on the right car, you might come out ahead, but overall, when you drive that car off the lot, you’re loosing something. This especially applies to certain specialty models like Jaguars. It also applies to Dodges and Chryslers, they are not holding their resale value too good these days.

And one more thing, just because you drive the Toyota Camery off the lot, and your Kelly Blue Book retail value says it’s still worth what you paid for it at the dealer, doesn’t mean you’re going to get that price if you trade it in. Yes, you might be able to get that full retail value if you sell it private party and bust your tush and deal with a bunch of flakes to sell it, but if you just go trade it in you will NEVER get that value for the vehicle.

So, before you accuse me of not knowing what I say, you better check your facts, the last time I checked, when you drive a Chrysler Pacifica off the lot, it’s worth $10,000 less then what you paid for it.

Excellent Resale Value of a Pacifica w/ 5000 miles on it is $16,520

MSRP is $27,955

Your loss: $11,435 and that doesn’t even include the tax, title, and tip to the dealer for all the extras if you got suckered into buying the alarm and the extended warranty.

CIAO

[djrobsd]

See, first I was making a blanket statement, and now you’re trying to do the same thing.

Yes, perhaps if you find the right deal on the right car, you might come out ahead, but overall, when you drive that car off the lot, you’re loosing something. This especially applies to certain specialty models like Jaguars. It also applies to Dodges and Chryslers, they are not holding their resale value too good these days.

And one more thing, just because you drive the Toyota Camery off the lot, and your Kelly Blue Book retail value says it’s still worth what you paid for it at the dealer, doesn’t mean you’re going to get that price if you trade it in. Yes, you might be able to get that full retail value if you sell it private party and bust your tush and deal with a bunch of flakes to sell it, but if you just go trade it in you will NEVER get that value for the vehicle.

So, before you accuse me of not knowing what I say, you better check your facts, the last time I checked, when you drive a Chrysler Pacifica off the lot, it’s worth $10,000 less then what you paid for it.

Excellent Resale Value of a Pacifica w/ 5000 miles on it is $16,520

MSRP is $27,955

Your loss: $11,435 and that doesn’t even include the tax, title, and tip to the dealer for all the extras if you got suckered into buying the alarm and the extended warranty.

CIAO

[djrobsd]

See, first I was making a blanket statement, and now you’re trying to do the same thing.

Yes, perhaps if you find the right deal on the right car, you might come out ahead, but overall, when you drive that car off the lot, you’re loosing something. This especially applies to certain specialty models like Jaguars. It also applies to Dodges and Chryslers, they are not holding their resale value too good these days.

And one more thing, just because you drive the Toyota Camery off the lot, and your Kelly Blue Book retail value says it’s still worth what you paid for it at the dealer, doesn’t mean you’re going to get that price if you trade it in. Yes, you might be able to get that full retail value if you sell it private party and bust your tush and deal with a bunch of flakes to sell it, but if you just go trade it in you will NEVER get that value for the vehicle.

So, before you accuse me of not knowing what I say, you better check your facts, the last time I checked, when you drive a Chrysler Pacifica off the lot, it’s worth $10,000 less then what you paid for it.

Excellent Resale Value of a Pacifica w/ 5000 miles on it is $16,520

MSRP is $27,955

Your loss: $11,435 and that doesn’t even include the tax, title, and tip to the dealer for all the extras if you got suckered into buying the alarm and the extended warranty.

CIAO

[djrobsd]

See, first I was making a blanket statement, and now you’re trying to do the same thing.

Yes, perhaps if you find the right deal on the right car, you might come out ahead, but overall, when you drive that car off the lot, you’re loosing something. This especially applies to certain specialty models like Jaguars. It also applies to Dodges and Chryslers, they are not holding their resale value too good these days.

And one more thing, just because you drive the Toyota Camery off the lot, and your Kelly Blue Book retail value says it’s still worth what you paid for it at the dealer, doesn’t mean you’re going to get that price if you trade it in. Yes, you might be able to get that full retail value if you sell it private party and bust your tush and deal with a bunch of flakes to sell it, but if you just go trade it in you will NEVER get that value for the vehicle.

So, before you accuse me of not knowing what I say, you better check your facts, the last time I checked, when you drive a Chrysler Pacifica off the lot, it’s worth $10,000 less then what you paid for it.

Excellent Resale Value of a Pacifica w/ 5000 miles on it is $16,520

MSRP is $27,955

Your loss: $11,435 and that doesn’t even include the tax, title, and tip to the dealer for all the extras if you got suckered into buying the alarm and the extended warranty.

CIAO

[djrobsd]

See, first I was making a blanket statement, and now you’re trying to do the same thing.

Yes, perhaps if you find the right deal on the right car, you might come out ahead, but overall, when you drive that car off the lot, you’re loosing something. This especially applies to certain specialty models like Jaguars. It also applies to Dodges and Chryslers, they are not holding their resale value too good these days.

And one more thing, just because you drive the Toyota Camery off the lot, and your Kelly Blue Book retail value says it’s still worth what you paid for it at the dealer, doesn’t mean you’re going to get that price if you trade it in. Yes, you might be able to get that full retail value if you sell it private party and bust your tush and deal with a bunch of flakes to sell it, but if you just go trade it in you will NEVER get that value for the vehicle.

So, before you accuse me of not knowing what I say, you better check your facts, the last time I checked, when you drive a Chrysler Pacifica off the lot, it’s worth $10,000 less then what you paid for it.

Excellent Resale Value of a Pacifica w/ 5000 miles on it is $16,520

MSRP is $27,955

Your loss: $11,435 and that doesn’t even include the tax, title, and tip to the dealer for all the extras if you got suckered into buying the alarm and the extended warranty.

CIAO

[Anonymous]

Long time lurker here. I really appreciate the experience many of you have and the great comments in this post.

I have a question that I have been trying to research, but have been unable to find a good definitive or, at least, general answer relating to buying a car.

The question is: can a buyer typically negotiate a better price by paying cash as opposed to using a seller’s low interest financing? (I am aware that a seller may lower the price if they backdoor the buyer with a higher interest rate – that isn’t the question here).

My specific facts are that I’m looking at used BMWs. The dealerships are advertising financing on used 2003s at 1.9% and 2004s at 2.9% APR. At those rates, they have to know they are going to lose money on the financing in view of inflation, increased credit risk now days and all. I would rather just pay cash, but my money would be much better off in my investments at those rates.

So, I was wondering if anyone knows a) if dealers will typically lower the price more if you pay cash instead of using this low interest financing and, if yes, b) is there any sort of general metric on determining how much more they would be willing lower the price?

Thanks in advance!

[Anonymous]

Long time lurker here. I really appreciate the experience many of you have and the great comments in this post.

I have a question that I have been trying to research, but have been unable to find a good definitive or, at least, general answer relating to buying a car.

The question is: can a buyer typically negotiate a better price by paying cash as opposed to using a seller’s low interest financing? (I am aware that a seller may lower the price if they backdoor the buyer with a higher interest rate – that isn’t the question here).

My specific facts are that I’m looking at used BMWs. The dealerships are advertising financing on used 2003s at 1.9% and 2004s at 2.9% APR. At those rates, they have to know they are going to lose money on the financing in view of inflation, increased credit risk now days and all. I would rather just pay cash, but my money would be much better off in my investments at those rates.

So, I was wondering if anyone knows a) if dealers will typically lower the price more if you pay cash instead of using this low interest financing and, if yes, b) is there any sort of general metric on determining how much more they would be willing lower the price?

Thanks in advance!

[Anonymous]

Long time lurker here. I really appreciate the experience many of you have and the great comments in this post.

I have a question that I have been trying to research, but have been unable to find a good definitive or, at least, general answer relating to buying a car.

The question is: can a buyer typically negotiate a better price by paying cash as opposed to using a seller’s low interest financing? (I am aware that a seller may lower the price if they backdoor the buyer with a higher interest rate – that isn’t the question here).

My specific facts are that I’m looking at used BMWs. The dealerships are advertising financing on used 2003s at 1.9% and 2004s at 2.9% APR. At those rates, they have to know they are going to lose money on the financing in view of inflation, increased credit risk now days and all. I would rather just pay cash, but my money would be much better off in my investments at those rates.

So, I was wondering if anyone knows a) if dealers will typically lower the price more if you pay cash instead of using this low interest financing and, if yes, b) is there any sort of general metric on determining how much more they would be willing lower the price?

Thanks in advance!

[Anonymous]

Long time lurker here. I really appreciate the experience many of you have and the great comments in this post.

I have a question that I have been trying to research, but have been unable to find a good definitive or, at least, general answer relating to buying a car.

The question is: can a buyer typically negotiate a better price by paying cash as opposed to using a seller’s low interest financing? (I am aware that a seller may lower the price if they backdoor the buyer with a higher interest rate – that isn’t the question here).

My specific facts are that I’m looking at used BMWs. The dealerships are advertising financing on used 2003s at 1.9% and 2004s at 2.9% APR. At those rates, they have to know they are going to lose money on the financing in view of inflation, increased credit risk now days and all. I would rather just pay cash, but my money would be much better off in my investments at those rates.

So, I was wondering if anyone knows a) if dealers will typically lower the price more if you pay cash instead of using this low interest financing and, if yes, b) is there any sort of general metric on determining how much more they would be willing lower the price?

Thanks in advance!

[Anonymous]

Long time lurker here. I really appreciate the experience many of you have and the great comments in this post.

I have a question that I have been trying to research, but have been unable to find a good definitive or, at least, general answer relating to buying a car.

The question is: can a buyer typically negotiate a better price by paying cash as opposed to using a seller’s low interest financing? (I am aware that a seller may lower the price if they backdoor the buyer with a higher interest rate – that isn’t the question here).

My specific facts are that I’m looking at used BMWs. The dealerships are advertising financing on used 2003s at 1.9% and 2004s at 2.9% APR. At those rates, they have to know they are going to lose money on the financing in view of inflation, increased credit risk now days and all. I would rather just pay cash, but my money would be much better off in my investments at those rates.

So, I was wondering if anyone knows a) if dealers will typically lower the price more if you pay cash instead of using this low interest financing and, if yes, b) is there any sort of general metric on determining how much more they would be willing lower the price?

Thanks in advance!

[Raybyrnes]

djrobsd

Prices on any car driving off a lot are going to typically guaranty you a 7.75% loss. It is call tax. No way of recovering that and in my opinion it is a scam that if you pay tax on a new item that the govrnment is going to continue to coleect this every time there is a transaction.

Cars bought properly should not depreciate much at all.

Here’s opne for you. Most rental car companies buy brand new cars fom all manufactures, can operate them for 6 monhts to a year snd stilll sell the cars at a price either equal too or higher than they paid. Additioanlly they are collecting rental revenues all that timme. Now explain to me all that depreciation?

[Raybyrnes]

djrobsd

Prices on any car driving off a lot are going to typically guaranty you a 7.75% loss. It is call tax. No way of recovering that and in my opinion it is a scam that if you pay tax on a new item that the govrnment is going to continue to coleect this every time there is a transaction.

Cars bought properly should not depreciate much at all.

Here’s opne for you. Most rental car companies buy brand new cars fom all manufactures, can operate them for 6 monhts to a year snd stilll sell the cars at a price either equal too or higher than they paid. Additioanlly they are collecting rental revenues all that timme. Now explain to me all that depreciation?

[Raybyrnes]

djrobsd

Prices on any car driving off a lot are going to typically guaranty you a 7.75% loss. It is call tax. No way of recovering that and in my opinion it is a scam that if you pay tax on a new item that the govrnment is going to continue to coleect this every time there is a transaction.

Cars bought properly should not depreciate much at all.

Here’s opne for you. Most rental car companies buy brand new cars fom all manufactures, can operate them for 6 monhts to a year snd stilll sell the cars at a price either equal too or higher than they paid. Additioanlly they are collecting rental revenues all that timme. Now explain to me all that depreciation?

[Raybyrnes]

djrobsd

Prices on any car driving off a lot are going to typically guaranty you a 7.75% loss. It is call tax. No way of recovering that and in my opinion it is a scam that if you pay tax on a new item that the govrnment is going to continue to coleect this every time there is a transaction.

Cars bought properly should not depreciate much at all.

Here’s opne for you. Most rental car companies buy brand new cars fom all manufactures, can operate them for 6 monhts to a year snd stilll sell the cars at a price either equal too or higher than they paid. Additioanlly they are collecting rental revenues all that timme. Now explain to me all that depreciation?

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