Buying a Car Online

[greensd]

You loose 25+% of it’s value when you drive it off the lot.

That’s not generally true anymore. A friend of mine just bought a new Toyota Avalon, and with the various rebates and incentives he got from the dealer, he paid $800 less than the bluebook value of the car with 15,000 miles on it. And that doesn’t even factor in the difference in financing a new car vs. a used car (he paid cash).

I’m a big believer in used cars, but I buy cars that are 5+ years old with lots of miles on them (I’m poor and good with a wrench). New cars are so reliable these days that they lose very little value in the first couple of years, and you can often get better deals on a new car than on a late-model used one.

[djrobsd]

Oops, I forgot to mention one more thing, I’m surprised others didn’t mention this already.

Make sure you get your OWN financing lined up before you visit the dealer to purchase the car. Of course, they will scream and beg and kick you to take their financing, but only do it if the terms are better then what you got for yourself.

Many credit unions have great “Sales” on their auto loan rates throughout the year, find a good rate, and buy your car when you get that rate. Get pre-approved, and a check in hand from your credit union, and then go to the dealer with the “Cash in hand”, and that way you won’t have to stress out about getting approved, and dealing with their financing department. Some dealers mark up the APR on financing to make up for the lower sales price, same as they do by reducing your trade in $ to make up for the price. Other tricks of course include the “torture chamber” room where you are supposed to sign all the paperwork. In this room, it’s the guy’s job to get as much money as he can out of you by asking you to buy the Permaplate paint protection package, the $1000+ KARR alarm system (which by the way they will tell you is “Already installed” and you’ll have to wait 2 hours for them to remove the alarm if you want the car without the alarm), extended warranty, and GAP protection. The gap protection can be purchased online for really cheap, as can an extended warranty. You can shop around online for the GAP and extended warranty if you really feel you need them, but just say no to all the extras, and if they get pushy and try to pull those little “you’ll have to wait 2 hours” tactics, then walk. With the alarm, I would ask the salesperson you’re dealing with if the car has an aftermarket alarm, and tell him that you don’t want to wait for them to remove it when you buy the car, so ask him to remove it before you arrive…. I doubt they will do it, but it’s worth asking, maybe if you put a deposit down on the car before you drive to the dealership they will do it.

[djrobsd]

Oops, I forgot to mention one more thing, I’m surprised others didn’t mention this already.

Make sure you get your OWN financing lined up before you visit the dealer to purchase the car. Of course, they will scream and beg and kick you to take their financing, but only do it if the terms are better then what you got for yourself.

Many credit unions have great “Sales” on their auto loan rates throughout the year, find a good rate, and buy your car when you get that rate. Get pre-approved, and a check in hand from your credit union, and then go to the dealer with the “Cash in hand”, and that way you won’t have to stress out about getting approved, and dealing with their financing department. Some dealers mark up the APR on financing to make up for the lower sales price, same as they do by reducing your trade in $ to make up for the price. Other tricks of course include the “torture chamber” room where you are supposed to sign all the paperwork. In this room, it’s the guy’s job to get as much money as he can out of you by asking you to buy the Permaplate paint protection package, the $1000+ KARR alarm system (which by the way they will tell you is “Already installed” and you’ll have to wait 2 hours for them to remove the alarm if you want the car without the alarm), extended warranty, and GAP protection. The gap protection can be purchased online for really cheap, as can an extended warranty. You can shop around online for the GAP and extended warranty if you really feel you need them, but just say no to all the extras, and if they get pushy and try to pull those little “you’ll have to wait 2 hours” tactics, then walk. With the alarm, I would ask the salesperson you’re dealing with if the car has an aftermarket alarm, and tell him that you don’t want to wait for them to remove it when you buy the car, so ask him to remove it before you arrive…. I doubt they will do it, but it’s worth asking, maybe if you put a deposit down on the car before you drive to the dealership they will do it.

[djrobsd]

Oops, I forgot to mention one more thing, I’m surprised others didn’t mention this already.

Make sure you get your OWN financing lined up before you visit the dealer to purchase the car. Of course, they will scream and beg and kick you to take their financing, but only do it if the terms are better then what you got for yourself.

Many credit unions have great “Sales” on their auto loan rates throughout the year, find a good rate, and buy your car when you get that rate. Get pre-approved, and a check in hand from your credit union, and then go to the dealer with the “Cash in hand”, and that way you won’t have to stress out about getting approved, and dealing with their financing department. Some dealers mark up the APR on financing to make up for the lower sales price, same as they do by reducing your trade in $ to make up for the price. Other tricks of course include the “torture chamber” room where you are supposed to sign all the paperwork. In this room, it’s the guy’s job to get as much money as he can out of you by asking you to buy the Permaplate paint protection package, the $1000+ KARR alarm system (which by the way they will tell you is “Already installed” and you’ll have to wait 2 hours for them to remove the alarm if you want the car without the alarm), extended warranty, and GAP protection. The gap protection can be purchased online for really cheap, as can an extended warranty. You can shop around online for the GAP and extended warranty if you really feel you need them, but just say no to all the extras, and if they get pushy and try to pull those little “you’ll have to wait 2 hours” tactics, then walk. With the alarm, I would ask the salesperson you’re dealing with if the car has an aftermarket alarm, and tell him that you don’t want to wait for them to remove it when you buy the car, so ask him to remove it before you arrive…. I doubt they will do it, but it’s worth asking, maybe if you put a deposit down on the car before you drive to the dealership they will do it.

[djrobsd]

Oops, I forgot to mention one more thing, I’m surprised others didn’t mention this already.

Make sure you get your OWN financing lined up before you visit the dealer to purchase the car. Of course, they will scream and beg and kick you to take their financing, but only do it if the terms are better then what you got for yourself.

Many credit unions have great “Sales” on their auto loan rates throughout the year, find a good rate, and buy your car when you get that rate. Get pre-approved, and a check in hand from your credit union, and then go to the dealer with the “Cash in hand”, and that way you won’t have to stress out about getting approved, and dealing with their financing department. Some dealers mark up the APR on financing to make up for the lower sales price, same as they do by reducing your trade in $ to make up for the price. Other tricks of course include the “torture chamber” room where you are supposed to sign all the paperwork. In this room, it’s the guy’s job to get as much money as he can out of you by asking you to buy the Permaplate paint protection package, the $1000+ KARR alarm system (which by the way they will tell you is “Already installed” and you’ll have to wait 2 hours for them to remove the alarm if you want the car without the alarm), extended warranty, and GAP protection. The gap protection can be purchased online for really cheap, as can an extended warranty. You can shop around online for the GAP and extended warranty if you really feel you need them, but just say no to all the extras, and if they get pushy and try to pull those little “you’ll have to wait 2 hours” tactics, then walk. With the alarm, I would ask the salesperson you’re dealing with if the car has an aftermarket alarm, and tell him that you don’t want to wait for them to remove it when you buy the car, so ask him to remove it before you arrive…. I doubt they will do it, but it’s worth asking, maybe if you put a deposit down on the car before you drive to the dealership they will do it.

[djrobsd]

Oops, I forgot to mention one more thing, I’m surprised others didn’t mention this already.

Make sure you get your OWN financing lined up before you visit the dealer to purchase the car. Of course, they will scream and beg and kick you to take their financing, but only do it if the terms are better then what you got for yourself.

Many credit unions have great “Sales” on their auto loan rates throughout the year, find a good rate, and buy your car when you get that rate. Get pre-approved, and a check in hand from your credit union, and then go to the dealer with the “Cash in hand”, and that way you won’t have to stress out about getting approved, and dealing with their financing department. Some dealers mark up the APR on financing to make up for the lower sales price, same as they do by reducing your trade in $ to make up for the price. Other tricks of course include the “torture chamber” room where you are supposed to sign all the paperwork. In this room, it’s the guy’s job to get as much money as he can out of you by asking you to buy the Permaplate paint protection package, the $1000+ KARR alarm system (which by the way they will tell you is “Already installed” and you’ll have to wait 2 hours for them to remove the alarm if you want the car without the alarm), extended warranty, and GAP protection. The gap protection can be purchased online for really cheap, as can an extended warranty. You can shop around online for the GAP and extended warranty if you really feel you need them, but just say no to all the extras, and if they get pushy and try to pull those little “you’ll have to wait 2 hours” tactics, then walk. With the alarm, I would ask the salesperson you’re dealing with if the car has an aftermarket alarm, and tell him that you don’t want to wait for them to remove it when you buy the car, so ask him to remove it before you arrive…. I doubt they will do it, but it’s worth asking, maybe if you put a deposit down on the car before you drive to the dealership they will do it.

[WaitingToExhale]

Other tricks of course include the “torture chamber” room where you are supposed to sign all the paperwork. In this room, it’s the guy’s job to get as much money as he can out of you by asking you to buy the Permaplate paint protection package, the $1000+ KARR alarm system (which by the way they will tell you is “Already installed” and you’ll have to wait 2 hours for them to remove the alarm if you want the car without the alarm), extended warranty, and GAP protection.

I’ve been through this as well with my first adult car purhase (not the alarm, but the rest of it). The woman tried to get us to buy all sorts of protections and warranties, one of which overlapped significantly with the “certified Honda warranty that we already had. She kept trying to make the argument that it made sense, and I kept arguing it didn’t, until I finally said: “Okay, let’s do the math…” and proceeded to show her that unless the car required $200 or more per month repairs every month for the first two years that it would be ridiculous to buy the additional warranty… and was she actually suggesting that the vehicle was THAT unreliable?

At which point she came unglued, and proceeded to rant about “stuck-up college-educated jerks” as she hurriedly signed everything else.

These days I would just walk out at such behavior, without closing the deal. I can’t stand that sort of thing, and will never return to that dealer, and would not reward a dealer who allowed that behavior with my business in the future.

With my most recent car purchase when we moved to that stage I just simply looked over the options briefly and stated quite simply that I never purchased them as the financials never made sense. When she tried to persuade me I (gently) reaffirmed my stance and told her there was no way I was going to purchase it and I could repeat that three more times if her job required it. And we moved on.

[WaitingToExhale]

Other tricks of course include the “torture chamber” room where you are supposed to sign all the paperwork. In this room, it’s the guy’s job to get as much money as he can out of you by asking you to buy the Permaplate paint protection package, the $1000+ KARR alarm system (which by the way they will tell you is “Already installed” and you’ll have to wait 2 hours for them to remove the alarm if you want the car without the alarm), extended warranty, and GAP protection.

I’ve been through this as well with my first adult car purhase (not the alarm, but the rest of it). The woman tried to get us to buy all sorts of protections and warranties, one of which overlapped significantly with the “certified Honda warranty that we already had. She kept trying to make the argument that it made sense, and I kept arguing it didn’t, until I finally said: “Okay, let’s do the math…” and proceeded to show her that unless the car required $200 or more per month repairs every month for the first two years that it would be ridiculous to buy the additional warranty… and was she actually suggesting that the vehicle was THAT unreliable?

At which point she came unglued, and proceeded to rant about “stuck-up college-educated jerks” as she hurriedly signed everything else.

These days I would just walk out at such behavior, without closing the deal. I can’t stand that sort of thing, and will never return to that dealer, and would not reward a dealer who allowed that behavior with my business in the future.

With my most recent car purchase when we moved to that stage I just simply looked over the options briefly and stated quite simply that I never purchased them as the financials never made sense. When she tried to persuade me I (gently) reaffirmed my stance and told her there was no way I was going to purchase it and I could repeat that three more times if her job required it. And we moved on.

[WaitingToExhale]

Other tricks of course include the “torture chamber” room where you are supposed to sign all the paperwork. In this room, it’s the guy’s job to get as much money as he can out of you by asking you to buy the Permaplate paint protection package, the $1000+ KARR alarm system (which by the way they will tell you is “Already installed” and you’ll have to wait 2 hours for them to remove the alarm if you want the car without the alarm), extended warranty, and GAP protection.

I’ve been through this as well with my first adult car purhase (not the alarm, but the rest of it). The woman tried to get us to buy all sorts of protections and warranties, one of which overlapped significantly with the “certified Honda warranty that we already had. She kept trying to make the argument that it made sense, and I kept arguing it didn’t, until I finally said: “Okay, let’s do the math…” and proceeded to show her that unless the car required $200 or more per month repairs every month for the first two years that it would be ridiculous to buy the additional warranty… and was she actually suggesting that the vehicle was THAT unreliable?

At which point she came unglued, and proceeded to rant about “stuck-up college-educated jerks” as she hurriedly signed everything else.

These days I would just walk out at such behavior, without closing the deal. I can’t stand that sort of thing, and will never return to that dealer, and would not reward a dealer who allowed that behavior with my business in the future.

With my most recent car purchase when we moved to that stage I just simply looked over the options briefly and stated quite simply that I never purchased them as the financials never made sense. When she tried to persuade me I (gently) reaffirmed my stance and told her there was no way I was going to purchase it and I could repeat that three more times if her job required it. And we moved on.

[WaitingToExhale]

Other tricks of course include the “torture chamber” room where you are supposed to sign all the paperwork. In this room, it’s the guy’s job to get as much money as he can out of you by asking you to buy the Permaplate paint protection package, the $1000+ KARR alarm system (which by the way they will tell you is “Already installed” and you’ll have to wait 2 hours for them to remove the alarm if you want the car without the alarm), extended warranty, and GAP protection.

I’ve been through this as well with my first adult car purhase (not the alarm, but the rest of it). The woman tried to get us to buy all sorts of protections and warranties, one of which overlapped significantly with the “certified Honda warranty that we already had. She kept trying to make the argument that it made sense, and I kept arguing it didn’t, until I finally said: “Okay, let’s do the math…” and proceeded to show her that unless the car required $200 or more per month repairs every month for the first two years that it would be ridiculous to buy the additional warranty… and was she actually suggesting that the vehicle was THAT unreliable?

At which point she came unglued, and proceeded to rant about “stuck-up college-educated jerks” as she hurriedly signed everything else.

These days I would just walk out at such behavior, without closing the deal. I can’t stand that sort of thing, and will never return to that dealer, and would not reward a dealer who allowed that behavior with my business in the future.

With my most recent car purchase when we moved to that stage I just simply looked over the options briefly and stated quite simply that I never purchased them as the financials never made sense. When she tried to persuade me I (gently) reaffirmed my stance and told her there was no way I was going to purchase it and I could repeat that three more times if her job required it. And we moved on.

[WaitingToExhale]

Other tricks of course include the “torture chamber” room where you are supposed to sign all the paperwork. In this room, it’s the guy’s job to get as much money as he can out of you by asking you to buy the Permaplate paint protection package, the $1000+ KARR alarm system (which by the way they will tell you is “Already installed” and you’ll have to wait 2 hours for them to remove the alarm if you want the car without the alarm), extended warranty, and GAP protection.

I’ve been through this as well with my first adult car purhase (not the alarm, but the rest of it). The woman tried to get us to buy all sorts of protections and warranties, one of which overlapped significantly with the “certified Honda warranty that we already had. She kept trying to make the argument that it made sense, and I kept arguing it didn’t, until I finally said: “Okay, let’s do the math…” and proceeded to show her that unless the car required $200 or more per month repairs every month for the first two years that it would be ridiculous to buy the additional warranty… and was she actually suggesting that the vehicle was THAT unreliable?

At which point she came unglued, and proceeded to rant about “stuck-up college-educated jerks” as she hurriedly signed everything else.

These days I would just walk out at such behavior, without closing the deal. I can’t stand that sort of thing, and will never return to that dealer, and would not reward a dealer who allowed that behavior with my business in the future.

With my most recent car purchase when we moved to that stage I just simply looked over the options briefly and stated quite simply that I never purchased them as the financials never made sense. When she tried to persuade me I (gently) reaffirmed my stance and told her there was no way I was going to purchase it and I could repeat that three more times if her job required it. And we moved on.

[Raybyrnes]

“I can not emphasize enough the importance of resisting the temptation to buy a new car. Unless you’re going to lease, and get a car for $350 a month that would normally cost $600 to finance, I don’t like the idea of buying a new car.”

DJROBSD

Sorry buddy but your advice is off. It demonstrates that you just don’t really understand the new or used car business when you throw out a blanket statement like buying new is going to cost you mkore becasue of depreciation.

It cost people who want some special car like a red MIatta wiht specific option a lot becaeu they have to pay retail for that customizqaiton. But for anyone who is open on make and model of vehicle they generally will hyave less headach and lower operating cost by buying new. End of Story.

The people who do well buying used are generally gear heads who can make repairs on the weekend that the average Joe can’t. For those guys buying used make a lot of sense.

[Raybyrnes]

“I can not emphasize enough the importance of resisting the temptation to buy a new car. Unless you’re going to lease, and get a car for $350 a month that would normally cost $600 to finance, I don’t like the idea of buying a new car.”

DJROBSD

Sorry buddy but your advice is off. It demonstrates that you just don’t really understand the new or used car business when you throw out a blanket statement like buying new is going to cost you mkore becasue of depreciation.

It cost people who want some special car like a red MIatta wiht specific option a lot becaeu they have to pay retail for that customizqaiton. But for anyone who is open on make and model of vehicle they generally will hyave less headach and lower operating cost by buying new. End of Story.

The people who do well buying used are generally gear heads who can make repairs on the weekend that the average Joe can’t. For those guys buying used make a lot of sense.

[Raybyrnes]

“I can not emphasize enough the importance of resisting the temptation to buy a new car. Unless you’re going to lease, and get a car for $350 a month that would normally cost $600 to finance, I don’t like the idea of buying a new car.”

DJROBSD

Sorry buddy but your advice is off. It demonstrates that you just don’t really understand the new or used car business when you throw out a blanket statement like buying new is going to cost you mkore becasue of depreciation.

It cost people who want some special car like a red MIatta wiht specific option a lot becaeu they have to pay retail for that customizqaiton. But for anyone who is open on make and model of vehicle they generally will hyave less headach and lower operating cost by buying new. End of Story.

The people who do well buying used are generally gear heads who can make repairs on the weekend that the average Joe can’t. For those guys buying used make a lot of sense.

[Raybyrnes]

“I can not emphasize enough the importance of resisting the temptation to buy a new car. Unless you’re going to lease, and get a car for $350 a month that would normally cost $600 to finance, I don’t like the idea of buying a new car.”

DJROBSD

Sorry buddy but your advice is off. It demonstrates that you just don’t really understand the new or used car business when you throw out a blanket statement like buying new is going to cost you mkore becasue of depreciation.

It cost people who want some special car like a red MIatta wiht specific option a lot becaeu they have to pay retail for that customizqaiton. But for anyone who is open on make and model of vehicle they generally will hyave less headach and lower operating cost by buying new. End of Story.

The people who do well buying used are generally gear heads who can make repairs on the weekend that the average Joe can’t. For those guys buying used make a lot of sense.

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