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djrobsd
ParticipantHe didn’t take his helmet off because it was freeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeezing there. I would have done the same thing.
January 21, 2008 at 11:04 AM in reply to: We are now within 5% of BOTTOM in for $600K and up SD RE market. #139678ParticipantSomething stinks here, this guy must be a realtor or a mortgage broker…
January 21, 2008 at 11:04 AM in reply to: We are now within 5% of BOTTOM in for $600K and up SD RE market. #139895ParticipantSomething stinks here, this guy must be a realtor or a mortgage broker…
January 21, 2008 at 11:04 AM in reply to: We are now within 5% of BOTTOM in for $600K and up SD RE market. #139915ParticipantSomething stinks here, this guy must be a realtor or a mortgage broker…
January 21, 2008 at 11:04 AM in reply to: We are now within 5% of BOTTOM in for $600K and up SD RE market. #139942ParticipantSomething stinks here, this guy must be a realtor or a mortgage broker…
January 21, 2008 at 11:04 AM in reply to: We are now within 5% of BOTTOM in for $600K and up SD RE market. #139987ParticipantSomething stinks here, this guy must be a realtor or a mortgage broker…
ParticipantOops, I forgot to mention one more thing, I’m surprised others didn’t mention this already.
Make sure you get your OWN financing lined up before you visit the dealer to purchase the car. Of course, they will scream and beg and kick you to take their financing, but only do it if the terms are better then what you got for yourself.
Many credit unions have great “Sales” on their auto loan rates throughout the year, find a good rate, and buy your car when you get that rate. Get pre-approved, and a check in hand from your credit union, and then go to the dealer with the “Cash in hand”, and that way you won’t have to stress out about getting approved, and dealing with their financing department. Some dealers mark up the APR on financing to make up for the lower sales price, same as they do by reducing your trade in $ to make up for the price. Other tricks of course include the “torture chamber” room where you are supposed to sign all the paperwork. In this room, it’s the guy’s job to get as much money as he can out of you by asking you to buy the Permaplate paint protection package, the $1000+ KARR alarm system (which by the way they will tell you is “Already installed” and you’ll have to wait 2 hours for them to remove the alarm if you want the car without the alarm), extended warranty, and GAP protection. The gap protection can be purchased online for really cheap, as can an extended warranty. You can shop around online for the GAP and extended warranty if you really feel you need them, but just say no to all the extras, and if they get pushy and try to pull those little “you’ll have to wait 2 hours” tactics, then walk. With the alarm, I would ask the salesperson you’re dealing with if the car has an aftermarket alarm, and tell him that you don’t want to wait for them to remove it when you buy the car, so ask him to remove it before you arrive…. I doubt they will do it, but it’s worth asking, maybe if you put a deposit down on the car before you drive to the dealership they will do it.
ParticipantOops, I forgot to mention one more thing, I’m surprised others didn’t mention this already.
Make sure you get your OWN financing lined up before you visit the dealer to purchase the car. Of course, they will scream and beg and kick you to take their financing, but only do it if the terms are better then what you got for yourself.
Many credit unions have great “Sales” on their auto loan rates throughout the year, find a good rate, and buy your car when you get that rate. Get pre-approved, and a check in hand from your credit union, and then go to the dealer with the “Cash in hand”, and that way you won’t have to stress out about getting approved, and dealing with their financing department. Some dealers mark up the APR on financing to make up for the lower sales price, same as they do by reducing your trade in $ to make up for the price. Other tricks of course include the “torture chamber” room where you are supposed to sign all the paperwork. In this room, it’s the guy’s job to get as much money as he can out of you by asking you to buy the Permaplate paint protection package, the $1000+ KARR alarm system (which by the way they will tell you is “Already installed” and you’ll have to wait 2 hours for them to remove the alarm if you want the car without the alarm), extended warranty, and GAP protection. The gap protection can be purchased online for really cheap, as can an extended warranty. You can shop around online for the GAP and extended warranty if you really feel you need them, but just say no to all the extras, and if they get pushy and try to pull those little “you’ll have to wait 2 hours” tactics, then walk. With the alarm, I would ask the salesperson you’re dealing with if the car has an aftermarket alarm, and tell him that you don’t want to wait for them to remove it when you buy the car, so ask him to remove it before you arrive…. I doubt they will do it, but it’s worth asking, maybe if you put a deposit down on the car before you drive to the dealership they will do it.
ParticipantOops, I forgot to mention one more thing, I’m surprised others didn’t mention this already.
Make sure you get your OWN financing lined up before you visit the dealer to purchase the car. Of course, they will scream and beg and kick you to take their financing, but only do it if the terms are better then what you got for yourself.
Many credit unions have great “Sales” on their auto loan rates throughout the year, find a good rate, and buy your car when you get that rate. Get pre-approved, and a check in hand from your credit union, and then go to the dealer with the “Cash in hand”, and that way you won’t have to stress out about getting approved, and dealing with their financing department. Some dealers mark up the APR on financing to make up for the lower sales price, same as they do by reducing your trade in $ to make up for the price. Other tricks of course include the “torture chamber” room where you are supposed to sign all the paperwork. In this room, it’s the guy’s job to get as much money as he can out of you by asking you to buy the Permaplate paint protection package, the $1000+ KARR alarm system (which by the way they will tell you is “Already installed” and you’ll have to wait 2 hours for them to remove the alarm if you want the car without the alarm), extended warranty, and GAP protection. The gap protection can be purchased online for really cheap, as can an extended warranty. You can shop around online for the GAP and extended warranty if you really feel you need them, but just say no to all the extras, and if they get pushy and try to pull those little “you’ll have to wait 2 hours” tactics, then walk. With the alarm, I would ask the salesperson you’re dealing with if the car has an aftermarket alarm, and tell him that you don’t want to wait for them to remove it when you buy the car, so ask him to remove it before you arrive…. I doubt they will do it, but it’s worth asking, maybe if you put a deposit down on the car before you drive to the dealership they will do it.
ParticipantOops, I forgot to mention one more thing, I’m surprised others didn’t mention this already.
Make sure you get your OWN financing lined up before you visit the dealer to purchase the car. Of course, they will scream and beg and kick you to take their financing, but only do it if the terms are better then what you got for yourself.
Many credit unions have great “Sales” on their auto loan rates throughout the year, find a good rate, and buy your car when you get that rate. Get pre-approved, and a check in hand from your credit union, and then go to the dealer with the “Cash in hand”, and that way you won’t have to stress out about getting approved, and dealing with their financing department. Some dealers mark up the APR on financing to make up for the lower sales price, same as they do by reducing your trade in $ to make up for the price. Other tricks of course include the “torture chamber” room where you are supposed to sign all the paperwork. In this room, it’s the guy’s job to get as much money as he can out of you by asking you to buy the Permaplate paint protection package, the $1000+ KARR alarm system (which by the way they will tell you is “Already installed” and you’ll have to wait 2 hours for them to remove the alarm if you want the car without the alarm), extended warranty, and GAP protection. The gap protection can be purchased online for really cheap, as can an extended warranty. You can shop around online for the GAP and extended warranty if you really feel you need them, but just say no to all the extras, and if they get pushy and try to pull those little “you’ll have to wait 2 hours” tactics, then walk. With the alarm, I would ask the salesperson you’re dealing with if the car has an aftermarket alarm, and tell him that you don’t want to wait for them to remove it when you buy the car, so ask him to remove it before you arrive…. I doubt they will do it, but it’s worth asking, maybe if you put a deposit down on the car before you drive to the dealership they will do it.
ParticipantOops, I forgot to mention one more thing, I’m surprised others didn’t mention this already.
Make sure you get your OWN financing lined up before you visit the dealer to purchase the car. Of course, they will scream and beg and kick you to take their financing, but only do it if the terms are better then what you got for yourself.
Many credit unions have great “Sales” on their auto loan rates throughout the year, find a good rate, and buy your car when you get that rate. Get pre-approved, and a check in hand from your credit union, and then go to the dealer with the “Cash in hand”, and that way you won’t have to stress out about getting approved, and dealing with their financing department. Some dealers mark up the APR on financing to make up for the lower sales price, same as they do by reducing your trade in $ to make up for the price. Other tricks of course include the “torture chamber” room where you are supposed to sign all the paperwork. In this room, it’s the guy’s job to get as much money as he can out of you by asking you to buy the Permaplate paint protection package, the $1000+ KARR alarm system (which by the way they will tell you is “Already installed” and you’ll have to wait 2 hours for them to remove the alarm if you want the car without the alarm), extended warranty, and GAP protection. The gap protection can be purchased online for really cheap, as can an extended warranty. You can shop around online for the GAP and extended warranty if you really feel you need them, but just say no to all the extras, and if they get pushy and try to pull those little “you’ll have to wait 2 hours” tactics, then walk. With the alarm, I would ask the salesperson you’re dealing with if the car has an aftermarket alarm, and tell him that you don’t want to wait for them to remove it when you buy the car, so ask him to remove it before you arrive…. I doubt they will do it, but it’s worth asking, maybe if you put a deposit down on the car before you drive to the dealership they will do it.
ParticipantI can not emphasize enough the importance of resisting the temptation to buy a new car. Unless you’re going to lease, and get a car for $350 a month that would normally cost $600 to finance, I don’t like the idea of buying a new car.
You loose 25+% of it’s value when you drive it off the lot. Why not check out Carmax.com and find your dream vehicle in the 2006 or 2007 model year? I’ve found cars on there with only 10k miles on them for $7500 off the original MSRP. In fact, if you’re willing to get a little higher miles, I’ve seen cars for $20k on there that original MSRP was $31,900.
Of course, I haven’t bought a car from them so I can’t vouch for them, but they do have some pretty appealing deals, and they will ship your car from one of their many dealers across the nation, so if they don’t have what you want in their San Diego store they can ship it from somewhere else.
Just my 2 cents… But hey, if you want to buy new, go for it, you can’t beat that new car smell, and leather seats that are crisp and new rather then wrinkled from people sitting in them. LOL…
If you do buy new, I agree with previous posters, use the internet department. Just remember, all quotes are not equal because rarely does one dealer have the exact same options on the car you’re buying, so you have to look at the MSRP vs Invoice value for the model the dealer is quoting, and see which dealer is giving you the best deal off invoice. Also, make sure they’re not holding any factory incentives against your price, negotiate the price based off the invoice and then make sure you’re getting your $2000 factory cash or whatever incentive Nissan is offering on top of the deal they give you.
ParticipantI can not emphasize enough the importance of resisting the temptation to buy a new car. Unless you’re going to lease, and get a car for $350 a month that would normally cost $600 to finance, I don’t like the idea of buying a new car.
You loose 25+% of it’s value when you drive it off the lot. Why not check out Carmax.com and find your dream vehicle in the 2006 or 2007 model year? I’ve found cars on there with only 10k miles on them for $7500 off the original MSRP. In fact, if you’re willing to get a little higher miles, I’ve seen cars for $20k on there that original MSRP was $31,900.
Of course, I haven’t bought a car from them so I can’t vouch for them, but they do have some pretty appealing deals, and they will ship your car from one of their many dealers across the nation, so if they don’t have what you want in their San Diego store they can ship it from somewhere else.
Just my 2 cents… But hey, if you want to buy new, go for it, you can’t beat that new car smell, and leather seats that are crisp and new rather then wrinkled from people sitting in them. LOL…
If you do buy new, I agree with previous posters, use the internet department. Just remember, all quotes are not equal because rarely does one dealer have the exact same options on the car you’re buying, so you have to look at the MSRP vs Invoice value for the model the dealer is quoting, and see which dealer is giving you the best deal off invoice. Also, make sure they’re not holding any factory incentives against your price, negotiate the price based off the invoice and then make sure you’re getting your $2000 factory cash or whatever incentive Nissan is offering on top of the deal they give you.
ParticipantI can not emphasize enough the importance of resisting the temptation to buy a new car. Unless you’re going to lease, and get a car for $350 a month that would normally cost $600 to finance, I don’t like the idea of buying a new car.
You loose 25+% of it’s value when you drive it off the lot. Why not check out Carmax.com and find your dream vehicle in the 2006 or 2007 model year? I’ve found cars on there with only 10k miles on them for $7500 off the original MSRP. In fact, if you’re willing to get a little higher miles, I’ve seen cars for $20k on there that original MSRP was $31,900.
Of course, I haven’t bought a car from them so I can’t vouch for them, but they do have some pretty appealing deals, and they will ship your car from one of their many dealers across the nation, so if they don’t have what you want in their San Diego store they can ship it from somewhere else.
Just my 2 cents… But hey, if you want to buy new, go for it, you can’t beat that new car smell, and leather seats that are crisp and new rather then wrinkled from people sitting in them. LOL…
If you do buy new, I agree with previous posters, use the internet department. Just remember, all quotes are not equal because rarely does one dealer have the exact same options on the car you’re buying, so you have to look at the MSRP vs Invoice value for the model the dealer is quoting, and see which dealer is giving you the best deal off invoice. Also, make sure they’re not holding any factory incentives against your price, negotiate the price based off the invoice and then make sure you’re getting your $2000 factory cash or whatever incentive Nissan is offering on top of the deal they give you.
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