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December 9, 2011 at 5:45 PM #734416December 9, 2011 at 6:11 PM #734417CoronitaParticipant
Just curious. Typically how much does a repipe run (ballpark).
December 9, 2011 at 8:12 PM #734418FearfulParticipant[quote=flu]Just curious. Typically how much does a repipe run (ballpark).[/quote]
Varies with whether there is a second story, and how many bathrooms are being served. Also varies with how well the drywall is cleaned up afterward. Cheapest option is to just shoot a section of poly tubing from one end of the house to whatever section you can isolate. Overall, ranges from $1,000 to $10,000.December 9, 2011 at 8:32 PM #734420SK in CVParticipant[quote=svelte]I’ve only talked to one person who has used a home warranty successfully. He had been in his place a few months in RB when the furnace went out. He did indeed get a new furnace for free.[/quote]
I’m gonna give an alternative view here. I bought a 25 year old house (this goes back more than a decade), and the seller paid for the first year of the home warranty, and I renewed for about 10 years. Premiums were never more than about $400 a year. (I actually remember them being less, but I’m sure no more than that.) In the years I had the policies, I replaced:
3 pool pumps (the 1st one when I didn’t even purchase extra pool coverage.)
pool filter
pool heater
furnace
A/C
Double oven
2 toilets
trash compacter
garbage disposal
built in vaccuum unitin addition to a handful of other repairs. Total cost of all these repairs would have been at least $8-10,000.
The problem with these policies is that the companies will almost ALWAYS deny claims initially, unless they’re very inexpensive repairs. That is the way they make money. You have to be prepared to fight with them. Over and over again. They will almost always tell you that items aren’t covered. Even though they may be specifically listed in the policy. And they love to point at fine print, sometimes fine print that isn’t even there. (I repeatedly had to produce my policy, which is more of a brochure.) I threatened to sue often, but never did. I can’t remember exactly what it was, but there was one repair that I fought with them over, and never could get them to fix. (I think maybe it was electronic pool controls.)
On the A/C replacement, they argued that I hadn’t properly maintained the unit, evidenced by rodent droppings inside the unit. The A/C guy that I called suggested that I pay for a cleaning (which was about $50), and then try again. Which I did. Two weeks later, they paid for a replacement A/C.
The double oven was another big fight. One of the ovens didn’t work, they wanted to replace it with a single. Double ovens are pretty pricy. I’m thinking it would have been well over $2,200. Finally got them to do it, but they wouldn’t pay for installation, only have it drop shipped. Turns out it was Sears installation guys who dropped it off, I gave them $50 bucks to remove the old and put the new one in. Didn’t even charge me to take away the old, they said they just dump them all in the same place and they already had like 10 old ones in their truck anyway.
It’s not easy, but these policies can work, if you’re willing to fight for what you paid for.
December 9, 2011 at 8:50 PM #734422CA renterParticipant[quote=flu]Just curious. Typically how much does a repipe run (ballpark).[/quote]
We just re-routed our plumbing through the attic because we knew a slab leak would likely be coming sooner rather than later because of the age of the house.
We got it repiped, plus a new water heater, new hose bibs, ball valve for main line, etc. for $5,000. This did NOT include drywall, but we’re doing a lot of drywall work in the house and are having our drywaller (or ourselves) do the drywall work. They get permits and insulate all the hot water pipes, too.
We used Berck’s Plumbing: 877-423-7257. They used “Type L” copper pipe, 1/2″, for the kitchen and two bathrooms in a single-story house.
December 9, 2011 at 9:24 PM #734425sdrealtorParticipant+1 on Bercks also (couldnt remember the name). They repiped my Mom’s home several years ago. Between Bercks and Pipes they do hundreds of repipes a year. Typical job is 5 to 8K last I checked.
December 10, 2011 at 7:31 AM #734437FearfulParticipant[quote=CA renter]
“Type L” copper pipe, 1/2″, for the kitchen and two bathrooms in a single-story house.[/quote]
L is probably an unnecessary expense for indoor lines and non corrosive water. But in the scheme of things it is not such a big deal.One tip: If you are running a cold water line to an outside hose bibb, make that line 3/4″ all the way. Otherwise, do everything in 1/2″. I can’t believe people run 3/4″ for hot water; it makes the hot water take twice as long to arrive at the faucet. But if you have a monster 10 gpm shower with a recirculating system then your needs are different.
December 10, 2011 at 8:40 AM #734443briansd1Guest[quote=SK in CV]
It’s not easy, but these policies can work, if you’re willing to fight for what you paid for.[/quote]Good to know.
December 10, 2011 at 8:58 AM #734445CDMA ENGParticipant[quote=sdduuuude][quote=Fearful]Ouch.
A too-little-too-late piece of advice: Home warranties are not worth jack. I am astonished by how much money they make for the companies. And I have been suckered in multiple times myself. Never again.
It is really unpleasant to contemplate, but you ought to re-pipe in the attic (assuming you are in a single story). Furthermore, do it right; this is plumbing that will be there for the remaining life of the house. Also, it involves tearing apart walls to access the bibbs; don’t settle for lousy drywall work.
Sorry for your predicament. Again, ouch; I feel your pain.[/quote]
Home warranties are a good thing when transferring ownership. The seller pays and the buyer gets the benefit. After a year or two, then just let it go.
This rerouting thing is a pain, but once done, you’ll be fine. I think every house in Clairmont has or will need this done.[/quote]
Ding!
The light just went on… I was wondering why there was crazy piping locations in my old house in UC.
CE
December 16, 2011 at 10:12 AM #734730AnonymousGuestLots of advice here about how to re-pipe a house from those who’ve experienced this huge hassle, but as a plumbing contractor who has worked for YEARS with home warranty companies and major insurance carriers on slab leaks and re-pipes, you should remember some easy tips:
1)Get three written proposals from licensed plumbing contractors. If its not in writing, it doesn’t exist.
2)Read the proposals and look for differences, especially inclusions and exclusions. They can make a big difference in price between contractors, and cost big bucks to fix at the end, or may lead to less than a complete job.
3)Make sure they pull a permit for a whole house re-pipe. All piping is sized by code; if the job is permitted you have a greater chance of getting the correct pipe sizing, insulation and strapping.
4)Unless the plumbing contractor has an experienced ‘drywall crew’, it might be beneficial to hire an independent, experienced drywall contractor.
5)Call the contractor if you have any questions once the work begins. The re-pipe crew can answer most concerns you might have, but go to the top if something doesn’t seem right, and don’t wait until the job is complete to voice concerns to the contractor or plumbing manager.
6)Home warranty companies rarely cover anything over $1000.00, if that much. They have ridiculously low payouts to contractors for materials and labor, and expect the contractor to negotiate the difference with the homeowner once the contractor is in the door. DO NOT SIGN UP without reading the contracts for limits and exclusions.December 20, 2011 at 6:21 AM #734839UCGalParticipant[quote=CDMA ENG][quote=sdduuuude]
This rerouting thing is a pain, but once done, you’ll be fine. I think every house in Clairmont has or will need this done.[/quote]
Ding!
The light just went on… I was wondering why there was crazy piping locations in my old house in UC.
CE[/quote]
We did a dyi repiping in the past year… not because of a slab lake but because of the stupid routing… the hot water line went uninsulated into the slab, then to the powder downstairs, then back to the slab, then up to the attic, then down to the two upstairs bathrooms, then finally down to the kitchen sink. Life is much better now that we can get hot water quickly due to more efficient routing through the ceiling. -
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