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stockstradr
ParticipantWe rent.
I’m certain there are mice in our garage, as there are in most garages. They are probably in there right, a team of them using a dust bunny to play a soccer game! Nevertheless, I cannot imagine ever calling any landlord about a mice “problem” in a garage.
Also, in our current home we have previously had flies problem, and ant problem.
We solved those issues ourselves. We don’t have time to screw around waiting for landlord. It is quicker to solve issues ourselves.
Now if there was a termite problem, yes we would direct landlord to solve that.
You have to pick your battles carefully. Otherwise you just become nuisance to landlord.
ParticipantWe rent.
I’m certain there are mice in our garage, as there are in most garages. They are probably in there right, a team of them using a dust bunny to play a soccer game! Nevertheless, I cannot imagine ever calling any landlord about a mice “problem” in a garage.
Also, in our current home we have previously had flies problem, and ant problem.
We solved those issues ourselves. We don’t have time to screw around waiting for landlord. It is quicker to solve issues ourselves.
Now if there was a termite problem, yes we would direct landlord to solve that.
You have to pick your battles carefully. Otherwise you just become nuisance to landlord.
ParticipantLeasing can be a much better deal than owning, under certain specific situations.
1) You like to switch cars every 2 or 3 years AND always switch to a NEW car model. People say that owning really starts to pay off if you hold a car longer than 5 to 7 years.
2) You have good reasons to believe the model car will depreciate much faster than leasing agents have apparently built into their leasing cost model.
3) You are a good negotiator, and can negotiate a good leasing deal.
4) You will NOT make the COMMON mistake in underestimating the miles/year you’ll drive the leased vehicle. The over-mileage penalty at end of lease is quite severe.
FOR AN EXAMPLE:
I leased a Isuzu Trooper back in 2001. I could have bought the fully loaded vehicle for about $34,000. Some people were leasing it for $500/month. I negotiated for three weeks playing different dealers against each other. They hated me. I worked them down to $360/month.
At the end of that lease, the leasing agent BEGGED me to buy the car from them. The company had grossly underestimated the depreciation that Trooper’s would experience over the lease. They figured the car would be worth something like 20 grand, when in fact it was worth only about 15 grand at end of lease, even in excellent condition. I refused to buy that truck at end of lease.
I did a very thorough spreadsheet analysis of my costs versus owning. I saved about $5,000 by leasing that vehicle. They way to do that A vs B comparison is to assume you sell a purchased vehicle at time you would have to turn in an alternatively leased vehicle, and you must be accurate in projecting its resale value at that future date; hopefully more accurate in forcasting than the leasing company is.
My current (different year and color) Isuzu Trooper I bought from a person who BOUGHT it new, and at the sale date they owed much more on the loan than what I paid them for the used truck. They made the mistake of buying NEW a quickly-depreciating vehicle.
Of course, there may be some cars that are a bad choice to lease if they really hold their value as well as claimed, and you plan to own it for more then 5 to 7 years.
ParticipantLeasing can be a much better deal than owning, under certain specific situations.
1) You like to switch cars every 2 or 3 years AND always switch to a NEW car model. People say that owning really starts to pay off if you hold a car longer than 5 to 7 years.
2) You have good reasons to believe the model car will depreciate much faster than leasing agents have apparently built into their leasing cost model.
3) You are a good negotiator, and can negotiate a good leasing deal.
4) You will NOT make the COMMON mistake in underestimating the miles/year you’ll drive the leased vehicle. The over-mileage penalty at end of lease is quite severe.
FOR AN EXAMPLE:
I leased a Isuzu Trooper back in 2001. I could have bought the fully loaded vehicle for about $34,000. Some people were leasing it for $500/month. I negotiated for three weeks playing different dealers against each other. They hated me. I worked them down to $360/month.
At the end of that lease, the leasing agent BEGGED me to buy the car from them. The company had grossly underestimated the depreciation that Trooper’s would experience over the lease. They figured the car would be worth something like 20 grand, when in fact it was worth only about 15 grand at end of lease, even in excellent condition. I refused to buy that truck at end of lease.
I did a very thorough spreadsheet analysis of my costs versus owning. I saved about $5,000 by leasing that vehicle. They way to do that A vs B comparison is to assume you sell a purchased vehicle at time you would have to turn in an alternatively leased vehicle, and you must be accurate in projecting its resale value at that future date; hopefully more accurate in forcasting than the leasing company is.
My current (different year and color) Isuzu Trooper I bought from a person who BOUGHT it new, and at the sale date they owed much more on the loan than what I paid them for the used truck. They made the mistake of buying NEW a quickly-depreciating vehicle.
Of course, there may be some cars that are a bad choice to lease if they really hold their value as well as claimed, and you plan to own it for more then 5 to 7 years.
ParticipantLeasing can be a much better deal than owning, under certain specific situations.
1) You like to switch cars every 2 or 3 years AND always switch to a NEW car model. People say that owning really starts to pay off if you hold a car longer than 5 to 7 years.
2) You have good reasons to believe the model car will depreciate much faster than leasing agents have apparently built into their leasing cost model.
3) You are a good negotiator, and can negotiate a good leasing deal.
4) You will NOT make the COMMON mistake in underestimating the miles/year you’ll drive the leased vehicle. The over-mileage penalty at end of lease is quite severe.
FOR AN EXAMPLE:
I leased a Isuzu Trooper back in 2001. I could have bought the fully loaded vehicle for about $34,000. Some people were leasing it for $500/month. I negotiated for three weeks playing different dealers against each other. They hated me. I worked them down to $360/month.
At the end of that lease, the leasing agent BEGGED me to buy the car from them. The company had grossly underestimated the depreciation that Trooper’s would experience over the lease. They figured the car would be worth something like 20 grand, when in fact it was worth only about 15 grand at end of lease, even in excellent condition. I refused to buy that truck at end of lease.
I did a very thorough spreadsheet analysis of my costs versus owning. I saved about $5,000 by leasing that vehicle. They way to do that A vs B comparison is to assume you sell a purchased vehicle at time you would have to turn in an alternatively leased vehicle, and you must be accurate in projecting its resale value at that future date; hopefully more accurate in forcasting than the leasing company is.
My current (different year and color) Isuzu Trooper I bought from a person who BOUGHT it new, and at the sale date they owed much more on the loan than what I paid them for the used truck. They made the mistake of buying NEW a quickly-depreciating vehicle.
Of course, there may be some cars that are a bad choice to lease if they really hold their value as well as claimed, and you plan to own it for more then 5 to 7 years.
ParticipantLeasing can be a much better deal than owning, under certain specific situations.
1) You like to switch cars every 2 or 3 years AND always switch to a NEW car model. People say that owning really starts to pay off if you hold a car longer than 5 to 7 years.
2) You have good reasons to believe the model car will depreciate much faster than leasing agents have apparently built into their leasing cost model.
3) You are a good negotiator, and can negotiate a good leasing deal.
4) You will NOT make the COMMON mistake in underestimating the miles/year you’ll drive the leased vehicle. The over-mileage penalty at end of lease is quite severe.
FOR AN EXAMPLE:
I leased a Isuzu Trooper back in 2001. I could have bought the fully loaded vehicle for about $34,000. Some people were leasing it for $500/month. I negotiated for three weeks playing different dealers against each other. They hated me. I worked them down to $360/month.
At the end of that lease, the leasing agent BEGGED me to buy the car from them. The company had grossly underestimated the depreciation that Trooper’s would experience over the lease. They figured the car would be worth something like 20 grand, when in fact it was worth only about 15 grand at end of lease, even in excellent condition. I refused to buy that truck at end of lease.
I did a very thorough spreadsheet analysis of my costs versus owning. I saved about $5,000 by leasing that vehicle. They way to do that A vs B comparison is to assume you sell a purchased vehicle at time you would have to turn in an alternatively leased vehicle, and you must be accurate in projecting its resale value at that future date; hopefully more accurate in forcasting than the leasing company is.
My current (different year and color) Isuzu Trooper I bought from a person who BOUGHT it new, and at the sale date they owed much more on the loan than what I paid them for the used truck. They made the mistake of buying NEW a quickly-depreciating vehicle.
Of course, there may be some cars that are a bad choice to lease if they really hold their value as well as claimed, and you plan to own it for more then 5 to 7 years.
ParticipantLeasing can be a much better deal than owning, under certain specific situations.
1) You like to switch cars every 2 or 3 years AND always switch to a NEW car model. People say that owning really starts to pay off if you hold a car longer than 5 to 7 years.
2) You have good reasons to believe the model car will depreciate much faster than leasing agents have apparently built into their leasing cost model.
3) You are a good negotiator, and can negotiate a good leasing deal.
4) You will NOT make the COMMON mistake in underestimating the miles/year you’ll drive the leased vehicle. The over-mileage penalty at end of lease is quite severe.
FOR AN EXAMPLE:
I leased a Isuzu Trooper back in 2001. I could have bought the fully loaded vehicle for about $34,000. Some people were leasing it for $500/month. I negotiated for three weeks playing different dealers against each other. They hated me. I worked them down to $360/month.
At the end of that lease, the leasing agent BEGGED me to buy the car from them. The company had grossly underestimated the depreciation that Trooper’s would experience over the lease. They figured the car would be worth something like 20 grand, when in fact it was worth only about 15 grand at end of lease, even in excellent condition. I refused to buy that truck at end of lease.
I did a very thorough spreadsheet analysis of my costs versus owning. I saved about $5,000 by leasing that vehicle. They way to do that A vs B comparison is to assume you sell a purchased vehicle at time you would have to turn in an alternatively leased vehicle, and you must be accurate in projecting its resale value at that future date; hopefully more accurate in forcasting than the leasing company is.
My current (different year and color) Isuzu Trooper I bought from a person who BOUGHT it new, and at the sale date they owed much more on the loan than what I paid them for the used truck. They made the mistake of buying NEW a quickly-depreciating vehicle.
Of course, there may be some cars that are a bad choice to lease if they really hold their value as well as claimed, and you plan to own it for more then 5 to 7 years.
ParticipantI love how someone posts they think cable provides a better picture than satellite.
Hey, I’m the biggest cable TV fan. Had cable for YEARS. Three months ago we kept the cable AND got sat signal also. Our home is wired with two coaxial jacks everywhere, so we could compare cable vs. satellite picture with the push of a button.
And this fool posts here that cable has a better picture. It never fails on this Forum. A person could post “1+1=2” and some fool would flame post him and dispute it.
About fifty friends who visited our home in the last few months took the Cable vs. Satellite Viewing test. Veryone agreed:
The satellite picture absolutely blew away the cable picture…on both low def AND HDTV channels. It wasn’t even close. We dumped cable.
Also, the fool posts how he loves Direct TV. What, is he baiting us?
Get a clue. Compare the price of Direct TV with DISH Network. Direct TV is MUCH higher cost for basically the same channels, but the real bargain with Direct TV are the sign-up specials. The sign-on special gave us about six months of Direct TV for about half price.
ParticipantI love how someone posts they think cable provides a better picture than satellite.
Hey, I’m the biggest cable TV fan. Had cable for YEARS. Three months ago we kept the cable AND got sat signal also. Our home is wired with two coaxial jacks everywhere, so we could compare cable vs. satellite picture with the push of a button.
And this fool posts here that cable has a better picture. It never fails on this Forum. A person could post “1+1=2” and some fool would flame post him and dispute it.
About fifty friends who visited our home in the last few months took the Cable vs. Satellite Viewing test. Veryone agreed:
The satellite picture absolutely blew away the cable picture…on both low def AND HDTV channels. It wasn’t even close. We dumped cable.
Also, the fool posts how he loves Direct TV. What, is he baiting us?
Get a clue. Compare the price of Direct TV with DISH Network. Direct TV is MUCH higher cost for basically the same channels, but the real bargain with Direct TV are the sign-up specials. The sign-on special gave us about six months of Direct TV for about half price.
ParticipantI love how someone posts they think cable provides a better picture than satellite.
Hey, I’m the biggest cable TV fan. Had cable for YEARS. Three months ago we kept the cable AND got sat signal also. Our home is wired with two coaxial jacks everywhere, so we could compare cable vs. satellite picture with the push of a button.
And this fool posts here that cable has a better picture. It never fails on this Forum. A person could post “1+1=2” and some fool would flame post him and dispute it.
About fifty friends who visited our home in the last few months took the Cable vs. Satellite Viewing test. Veryone agreed:
The satellite picture absolutely blew away the cable picture…on both low def AND HDTV channels. It wasn’t even close. We dumped cable.
Also, the fool posts how he loves Direct TV. What, is he baiting us?
Get a clue. Compare the price of Direct TV with DISH Network. Direct TV is MUCH higher cost for basically the same channels, but the real bargain with Direct TV are the sign-up specials. The sign-on special gave us about six months of Direct TV for about half price.
ParticipantI love how someone posts they think cable provides a better picture than satellite.
Hey, I’m the biggest cable TV fan. Had cable for YEARS. Three months ago we kept the cable AND got sat signal also. Our home is wired with two coaxial jacks everywhere, so we could compare cable vs. satellite picture with the push of a button.
And this fool posts here that cable has a better picture. It never fails on this Forum. A person could post “1+1=2” and some fool would flame post him and dispute it.
About fifty friends who visited our home in the last few months took the Cable vs. Satellite Viewing test. Veryone agreed:
The satellite picture absolutely blew away the cable picture…on both low def AND HDTV channels. It wasn’t even close. We dumped cable.
Also, the fool posts how he loves Direct TV. What, is he baiting us?
Get a clue. Compare the price of Direct TV with DISH Network. Direct TV is MUCH higher cost for basically the same channels, but the real bargain with Direct TV are the sign-up specials. The sign-on special gave us about six months of Direct TV for about half price.
ParticipantI love how someone posts they think cable provides a better picture than satellite.
Hey, I’m the biggest cable TV fan. Had cable for YEARS. Three months ago we kept the cable AND got sat signal also. Our home is wired with two coaxial jacks everywhere, so we could compare cable vs. satellite picture with the push of a button.
And this fool posts here that cable has a better picture. It never fails on this Forum. A person could post “1+1=2” and some fool would flame post him and dispute it.
About fifty friends who visited our home in the last few months took the Cable vs. Satellite Viewing test. Veryone agreed:
The satellite picture absolutely blew away the cable picture…on both low def AND HDTV channels. It wasn’t even close. We dumped cable.
Also, the fool posts how he loves Direct TV. What, is he baiting us?
Get a clue. Compare the price of Direct TV with DISH Network. Direct TV is MUCH higher cost for basically the same channels, but the real bargain with Direct TV are the sign-up specials. The sign-on special gave us about six months of Direct TV for about half price.
ParticipantI’ll add my 2 cents to this thread.
A few months ago we finally bought a big flat screen. By training I’m a LCD module engineer (Motorola, Nokia) so this was no point-and-click purchase. I do this for a living. I researched the hell out of it, compared countless models side-by-side, but very quickly it came down to one obvious choice.
We bought a 46″ Samsung LN-T4661F, at Fry’s for $1810+tax, and we LOVE this flat screen. I concluded there is no other LCD for less than $2,000 that even comes close to the optics of this set. However, if you have $3,000 to spend there are LCD’s with a finer specifications.
I’m very impressed with the rich saturated colors, deep blacks, even backlighting, build quality, styling, everything. With 1080p signal and these optics, every movie scene looks like high resolution color print film (in motion). Amazing! After I unboxed it I ran solid color test screens (black, red, blue, green) for several hours checking saturation, backlighting consistency, and dead pixels. Not a single dead pixel found, which is quite surprising for a typical 1920×1080 LCD. Also very happy with the anti-reflection film, and the thin frame border allowing this TV to fit places that wider sets cannot. I highly recommend this LCD. My wife complains, “You love that TV more than me!”
Things to know before shopping:
1) There is no LCD vs. Plasma debate, because a good LCD TV is vastly superior.
2) A good anti-reflection film is a must when buying a big screen LCD TV, unless you place it in a room without sunlight exposure, and you watch it in low-light conditions.
3) Dump your cable, go with Satellite. We actually had both cable and satellite feeds coming in, so we could compare them. There is no comparison, especially when it comes to HDTV. Satellite rules with a brighter, far crisper picture.
4) Yes, IF I could afford the bulbs I would buy a high-def digital projector, because they are incredible for showing movies 10 feet wide on your white living room walls. I sometimes borrow projectors from work to see movies at home. Digital projectors are the best, but are still quite expensive if you want a 1080p model.
5) Be sure to READ reviews online before buying. For example, we were considering buying a particular Sony big screen LCD model, because it was on sale previous version model. Online reviews quickly revealed that particular model has a major field return problem with ghosting and inconsitent backlighting.
ParticipantI’ll add my 2 cents to this thread.
A few months ago we finally bought a big flat screen. By training I’m a LCD module engineer (Motorola, Nokia) so this was no point-and-click purchase. I do this for a living. I researched the hell out of it, compared countless models side-by-side, but very quickly it came down to one obvious choice.
We bought a 46″ Samsung LN-T4661F, at Fry’s for $1810+tax, and we LOVE this flat screen. I concluded there is no other LCD for less than $2,000 that even comes close to the optics of this set. However, if you have $3,000 to spend there are LCD’s with a finer specifications.
I’m very impressed with the rich saturated colors, deep blacks, even backlighting, build quality, styling, everything. With 1080p signal and these optics, every movie scene looks like high resolution color print film (in motion). Amazing! After I unboxed it I ran solid color test screens (black, red, blue, green) for several hours checking saturation, backlighting consistency, and dead pixels. Not a single dead pixel found, which is quite surprising for a typical 1920×1080 LCD. Also very happy with the anti-reflection film, and the thin frame border allowing this TV to fit places that wider sets cannot. I highly recommend this LCD. My wife complains, “You love that TV more than me!”
Things to know before shopping:
1) There is no LCD vs. Plasma debate, because a good LCD TV is vastly superior.
2) A good anti-reflection film is a must when buying a big screen LCD TV, unless you place it in a room without sunlight exposure, and you watch it in low-light conditions.
3) Dump your cable, go with Satellite. We actually had both cable and satellite feeds coming in, so we could compare them. There is no comparison, especially when it comes to HDTV. Satellite rules with a brighter, far crisper picture.
4) Yes, IF I could afford the bulbs I would buy a high-def digital projector, because they are incredible for showing movies 10 feet wide on your white living room walls. I sometimes borrow projectors from work to see movies at home. Digital projectors are the best, but are still quite expensive if you want a 1080p model.
5) Be sure to READ reviews online before buying. For example, we were considering buying a particular Sony big screen LCD model, because it was on sale previous version model. Online reviews quickly revealed that particular model has a major field return problem with ghosting and inconsitent backlighting.
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