OT: I think it’s time to let go of my audi…sniff….

[Coronita]

I’ve had my audi for 16 years, and it was my first new car that I bought with cash. And I’ve been pretty happy with it…

But I think it’s about time to part with it.

I just failed smog, with the latest OBDII tests. I failed the visual inspection, because at startup, apparently there’s a lot of white smoke that only disappears after the car warms up…It was enough smoke to fail visual. I’ve been told this could be anything from a leaking head gasket, to other bigger item things. And if there really is a coolant leak and it’s blowing into my exhaust, my catalytic c is probably toast by now. Book value of the car is around $1500, diagnosing and repairing is well above that I’m afraid. So, I guess it’s the end of the road for this car.. Sigh…..

[Hatfield]

Maybe your Audi should go out in a blaze of glory. https://www.24hoursoflemons.com

[Hobie]

Shouldn’t the car be warmed up enough and kept running before the smog test? With a head gasket failure it would probably fail the emissions but visual??

Barr’s head gasket sealer will work provided it is not a huge leak.

Obviously, you are on borrowed time but maybe a different tech could help.

[Hobie]

Just how much coolent have you lost? Btw, the copper colored sealer seems to be better

[Coronita]

[quote=Hobie]Shouldn’t the car be warmed up enough and kept running before the smog test? With a head gasket failure it would probably fail the emissions but visual??

Barr’s head gasket sealer will work provided it is not a huge leak.

Obviously, you are on borrowed time but maybe a different tech could help.[/quote]

You know that’s what I thought. The tech didn’t do that, and it smoked. Plus the car hadn’t been driving in a month… I drove it for 1 hour just now and when I start up, it doesn’t smoke anymore.

So I’m wondering if there was a tiny oil leak in the head gasket that burned off once it’s driven daily.

The jerk smog check station in miramar charged me $40 and isn’t offering me a free retest. I think I’m going to take it to poway smog in march.

The way they do smog tests these days is they do an OBD scan and then they step on the gas pedal a few times to confirm if they see any smoke from the tailpipe. It’s pretty stupid and I should have known….

I do have a coolant leak, but that’a different issue. I have a tiny hole seaping out of the radiator when I it something, but it is literally a drop every two days or so.

Some have also told me to try to run a thicker oil. My current oil is 0w40 as it was recommended to me. I’ll switch to a 5w40. I’m due for an oil change anyway.

[spdrun]

Run 20w50. Won’t hurt anything for short duration, and it’s much more viscous at cold temps (the 20w part) as well as being thicker when hot (the 50 part).

[bearishgurl]

I’ve been down this road with a few vehicles. Make sure your smog check station is a Test Only station, NOT a Test and Repair Station! As you know, “Test Only” stations have no incentive to attempt to get “make-work” from older vehicles brought to them because they think they have you over a barrel (esp if it is your only vehicle). Take it to the regular mechanic you use who has a fav “Test Only” station they send their client’s vehicles to and pay them cash so they can take it there for you and pay cash for your retest. After your oil change (to thicker oil), fill the gas tank and add this to it:

Then go on a short road trip (ex: to LA and back). Drive the car until it is empty and then refill the gas tank. Then make an appt with your regular shop and take it there in the morning before you go to work and have them drive it on the freeway for 20-30 mins before they take it for a smog check. You should pass smog.

It’s possible that your shop can check your car over and find something else to do to make it pass smog. During your failed smog check, what did your OBD II readings say were the problems?

[spdrun]

It should be a test-only station with good rep. I’ve heard of “test-only” stations “recommending” a mechanic to fix “problems,” where there might be some kind of kickback relationship.

This being said, check online reviews. Sleezy mechanics usually get bad ones.

[bearishgurl]

[quote=spdrun]It should be a test-only station with good rep. I’ve heard of “test-only” stations “recommending” a mechanic to fix “problems,” where there might be some kind of kickback relationship.

This being said, check online reviews. Sleezy mechanics usually get bad ones.[/quote]

flu, use your trusted mechanic who has been taking care of this car (or your other cars) for years.

You have to give your mechanic cash to pay their trusted “Test Only” smog station because by law, auto repair shops are not allowed to have anything to do with “smog checks.” They’ll bring you back a receipt with your name on it.

[moneymaker]

If it is 16 years old may be time for a new catalytic converter, did this for my 1988 Jeep and it passed easily with flying colors. Need to look at the test results for NOx CO and hydrocarbons.

[utcsox]

Audi, which is owned by VW, shall be able to tell you what you need to pass the smog test….

[Hobie]

Flu: White smoke is from a coolant. Head gasket failure most common, followed by crack in head. Feel like a running a compression or leak down test??

Black is oil or super rich. Rich would be running really badly and you would have mentioned that already so that’s not it.

New catalytic is like the magic pill for older cars! I got a carboratoer in one of mine that runs great but it just is not as clean as fuel injected. I have a running bet with my smog guy!

If you are planning on keeping it, replace vaccuum lines and vacuum control ( CTO )valves. These are the vaccum switches that cycle depending on coolant temp.

But all of that is after having a different smog smog guy – pass or don’t pay place.

Oh, and maybe it would be good to make a couple of high speed freeway runs to burn off stuff in the pipe and really heat up the cat. Then take in for the test while cat is hot.

Doesn’t the car have to be dyno smogged? Newer cars get the plug in test.

[FlyerInHi]

The whole point of the smog program is to get old cars off the road so we can breathe better.
Go with the spirit of be law. Unless you’re poor, why insist on keeping an old polluting car?

[bearishgurl]

[quote=FlyerInHi]The whole point of the smog program is to get old cars off the road so we can breathe better.
Go with the spirit of be law. Unless you’re poor, why insist on keeping an old polluting car?[/quote] Because the CA BAR (in this case, Bureau of Automotive Repair) has been overreaching for the last 10+ years in its efforts to get what they consider to be “older vehicles” (um, 16 years is a 1999-2000 vehicle and still fairly young) off the road (or registered as non-ops). It’s to the point where the stupid (STAR directed) excessive rigamarole (over and above smog checks) that these vehicles are put thru is nothing but a profit center for “Test and Repair Stations” statewide. Its’ likely that only 5-15% of these vehicles are actually “gross polluters” and the vehicles that are either originated from MX (or another state which doesn’t have biennial smog checks), are in excess of 35 years old or have never been maintained in any way, shape or form. In short, it’s a scam.

Joe and Suzy 6pack need to be able to get to work and back. This group is HUGE in CA and the $4K to $8K vehicle suits them just fine! They can’t run out and buy a late model vehicle because the monthly payments on it would essentially prevent them from feeding their families.

[spdrun]

FlyerInHI – horseshit.

Small amount of smoke on startup isn’t a major part of the problem. I’ve seen cars on I-5 literally looking like shot down fighters in WW I movies, wonder how they passed smog.

Besides, it takes a lot more energy and pollution to build a new car than keep driving an old one. Unless you’re moving to an electric or much more efficient car, it’s better for the environment NOT to junk your old car.

[Author]

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