$500 Monthly SDG&E Bill (How to reduce?)

[ocrenter]

I’ll take $500 a month anyday. I’m not in SDG&E zone, I use Edison and SoCal Gas, but my combined bills are at least double that, sometimes triple in the summer w/AC usage.

how do we get averages of utility bills based on zip code?

an analysis of difference in utility cost from near coast (carmel valley) to 20 min coastal (poway) to inland (diamond bar) may help us understand more about that all important “coastal premium.”

[jimmyle]

My SDGE monthly bill (gas and electric) is under $40. I think living in a 1b/1b condo helps. We are in Carmel Valley near the 5 fwy, no AC is needed.

Changing to efficient light bulbs (10 total) lowered my bill about $5 a month.

[jimmyle]

My SDGE monthly bill (gas and electric) is under $40. I think living in a 1b/1b condo helps. We are in Carmel Valley near the 5 fwy, no AC is needed.

Changing to efficient light bulbs (10 total) lowered my bill about $5 a month.

[jimmyle]

My SDGE monthly bill (gas and electric) is under $40. I think living in a 1b/1b condo helps. We are in Carmel Valley near the 5 fwy, no AC is needed.

Changing to efficient light bulbs (10 total) lowered my bill about $5 a month.

[jimmyle]

My SDGE monthly bill (gas and electric) is under $40. I think living in a 1b/1b condo helps. We are in Carmel Valley near the 5 fwy, no AC is needed.

Changing to efficient light bulbs (10 total) lowered my bill about $5 a month.

[jimmyle]

My SDGE monthly bill (gas and electric) is under $40. I think living in a 1b/1b condo helps. We are in Carmel Valley near the 5 fwy, no AC is needed.

Changing to efficient light bulbs (10 total) lowered my bill about $5 a month.

[poway_seller]

Besides the few rogue smart-A$$ comments (pool skating, oxymoron, etc), I’m pleased there has been so many helpful comments. Thank you.

My wife thought I was nuts yesterday when I came home from work and unplugged all chargers, TVs in extra rooms, told her to shut lights behind her, etc. Who knows how long it will last, but I told her I wanted to try this for a full billing cycle (which starts Feb 16, we are just getting a head start). I’ll be sure to update the forum when that bill arrives.

Here is the electric portion of my last bill (note that the cost of going over 130% of the baseline is what really kills me (jumps from $0.064 to $0.22). 60% of my usage last month was over 200% (it would be very hard for me to completely remove usage over these baselines)

ELEC/DR 12-16 to 01-16
1,792 kWh $304.31

Baseline Allowance 357 kWh
Baseline 357 kWh @ $.04363 16/ 31 Days
101% – 130% of Baseline 107 kWh @ $.06380
131% – 200% of Baseline 250 kWh @ $.21818
Over 200% of Baseline 1,078 kWh @ $.23818

On top of the base kWh charge, there are $102 of “electric energy” charge added for the amount over 130%. Total Electric Charges 451.14

Additional Comment from above replies:

– SOLAR: house is not faced in ideal direction for solar, and even if it was, it would be MAJOR expense that would take 20+ years to breakeven. I looked into it on purchase
– SQ FT: I realize it is a lot of house, but we moved from 3100sf to get here, so that was by choice and I wouldn’t change it. Family is growing and we all value our space.
– LIGHTS: we’re running 65 watt bulbs mostly. Rooms where I don’t think dimming is of benefit I will probably switch to CFL and remove dimmers (bathroom, closet, office, halls). Some rooms require dimmers (bedrooms, kitchen, theater) so bulbs can’t go to CFL.
– FRIDGES: there are also two extra fridges in the garage that came with the house (those cool Gladiator freezer/fridge ones) that I do not use do to cost. The WINE fridge is full, we are not big drinkers, but I’d fear the wine would go bad if it wasn’t used. The BEVERAGE fridge holds overflow wine, sake, vodka, and sodas. It is used daily (sometimes though my wife accidently leaves the door cracked open). Kitchen fridge is likely NOT all that efficient (anyone know about the GE Monogram line?)
– SMALL APPLIANCES: I’ve shut off the dehumidifiers. I think I’ll add timers to them so they are not on 24 hours/day, but maybe half the day only.
– POOL PUMP: when it is really cold out like now I can reduce the filter hours, right? Maybe down to 3.5/day, from the 5-6/day needed in warm weather. Anyone know the recommendation? We NEVER use heater (only blue cover in summer)
– HOT WATER HEATER: it is in an inside room, so same temp as house (housed with washer/dryer, furnaces, soft water system). It is 75 gallon, not sure the setting, but no insulation blanket.
– FIREPLACE: none in the house.
– Other monthly house charges to deal with: Water ($300+/-), Landscaper ($250), Pool Guy ($80), TV/Internet/Phone ($210)

Thanks everyone for the good comments, this will really push me to see how big a difference we can make in the bill. Any extra ideas are welcome!

[poway_seller]

Besides the few rogue smart-A$$ comments (pool skating, oxymoron, etc), I’m pleased there has been so many helpful comments. Thank you.

My wife thought I was nuts yesterday when I came home from work and unplugged all chargers, TVs in extra rooms, told her to shut lights behind her, etc. Who knows how long it will last, but I told her I wanted to try this for a full billing cycle (which starts Feb 16, we are just getting a head start). I’ll be sure to update the forum when that bill arrives.

Here is the electric portion of my last bill (note that the cost of going over 130% of the baseline is what really kills me (jumps from $0.064 to $0.22). 60% of my usage last month was over 200% (it would be very hard for me to completely remove usage over these baselines)

ELEC/DR 12-16 to 01-16
1,792 kWh $304.31

Baseline Allowance 357 kWh
Baseline 357 kWh @ $.04363 16/ 31 Days
101% – 130% of Baseline 107 kWh @ $.06380
131% – 200% of Baseline 250 kWh @ $.21818
Over 200% of Baseline 1,078 kWh @ $.23818

On top of the base kWh charge, there are $102 of “electric energy” charge added for the amount over 130%. Total Electric Charges 451.14

Additional Comment from above replies:

– SOLAR: house is not faced in ideal direction for solar, and even if it was, it would be MAJOR expense that would take 20+ years to breakeven. I looked into it on purchase
– SQ FT: I realize it is a lot of house, but we moved from 3100sf to get here, so that was by choice and I wouldn’t change it. Family is growing and we all value our space.
– LIGHTS: we’re running 65 watt bulbs mostly. Rooms where I don’t think dimming is of benefit I will probably switch to CFL and remove dimmers (bathroom, closet, office, halls). Some rooms require dimmers (bedrooms, kitchen, theater) so bulbs can’t go to CFL.
– FRIDGES: there are also two extra fridges in the garage that came with the house (those cool Gladiator freezer/fridge ones) that I do not use do to cost. The WINE fridge is full, we are not big drinkers, but I’d fear the wine would go bad if it wasn’t used. The BEVERAGE fridge holds overflow wine, sake, vodka, and sodas. It is used daily (sometimes though my wife accidently leaves the door cracked open). Kitchen fridge is likely NOT all that efficient (anyone know about the GE Monogram line?)
– SMALL APPLIANCES: I’ve shut off the dehumidifiers. I think I’ll add timers to them so they are not on 24 hours/day, but maybe half the day only.
– POOL PUMP: when it is really cold out like now I can reduce the filter hours, right? Maybe down to 3.5/day, from the 5-6/day needed in warm weather. Anyone know the recommendation? We NEVER use heater (only blue cover in summer)
– HOT WATER HEATER: it is in an inside room, so same temp as house (housed with washer/dryer, furnaces, soft water system). It is 75 gallon, not sure the setting, but no insulation blanket.
– FIREPLACE: none in the house.
– Other monthly house charges to deal with: Water ($300+/-), Landscaper ($250), Pool Guy ($80), TV/Internet/Phone ($210)

Thanks everyone for the good comments, this will really push me to see how big a difference we can make in the bill. Any extra ideas are welcome!

[poway_seller]

Besides the few rogue smart-A$$ comments (pool skating, oxymoron, etc), I’m pleased there has been so many helpful comments. Thank you.

My wife thought I was nuts yesterday when I came home from work and unplugged all chargers, TVs in extra rooms, told her to shut lights behind her, etc. Who knows how long it will last, but I told her I wanted to try this for a full billing cycle (which starts Feb 16, we are just getting a head start). I’ll be sure to update the forum when that bill arrives.

Here is the electric portion of my last bill (note that the cost of going over 130% of the baseline is what really kills me (jumps from $0.064 to $0.22). 60% of my usage last month was over 200% (it would be very hard for me to completely remove usage over these baselines)

ELEC/DR 12-16 to 01-16
1,792 kWh $304.31

Baseline Allowance 357 kWh
Baseline 357 kWh @ $.04363 16/ 31 Days
101% – 130% of Baseline 107 kWh @ $.06380
131% – 200% of Baseline 250 kWh @ $.21818
Over 200% of Baseline 1,078 kWh @ $.23818

On top of the base kWh charge, there are $102 of “electric energy” charge added for the amount over 130%. Total Electric Charges 451.14

Additional Comment from above replies:

– SOLAR: house is not faced in ideal direction for solar, and even if it was, it would be MAJOR expense that would take 20+ years to breakeven. I looked into it on purchase
– SQ FT: I realize it is a lot of house, but we moved from 3100sf to get here, so that was by choice and I wouldn’t change it. Family is growing and we all value our space.
– LIGHTS: we’re running 65 watt bulbs mostly. Rooms where I don’t think dimming is of benefit I will probably switch to CFL and remove dimmers (bathroom, closet, office, halls). Some rooms require dimmers (bedrooms, kitchen, theater) so bulbs can’t go to CFL.
– FRIDGES: there are also two extra fridges in the garage that came with the house (those cool Gladiator freezer/fridge ones) that I do not use do to cost. The WINE fridge is full, we are not big drinkers, but I’d fear the wine would go bad if it wasn’t used. The BEVERAGE fridge holds overflow wine, sake, vodka, and sodas. It is used daily (sometimes though my wife accidently leaves the door cracked open). Kitchen fridge is likely NOT all that efficient (anyone know about the GE Monogram line?)
– SMALL APPLIANCES: I’ve shut off the dehumidifiers. I think I’ll add timers to them so they are not on 24 hours/day, but maybe half the day only.
– POOL PUMP: when it is really cold out like now I can reduce the filter hours, right? Maybe down to 3.5/day, from the 5-6/day needed in warm weather. Anyone know the recommendation? We NEVER use heater (only blue cover in summer)
– HOT WATER HEATER: it is in an inside room, so same temp as house (housed with washer/dryer, furnaces, soft water system). It is 75 gallon, not sure the setting, but no insulation blanket.
– FIREPLACE: none in the house.
– Other monthly house charges to deal with: Water ($300+/-), Landscaper ($250), Pool Guy ($80), TV/Internet/Phone ($210)

Thanks everyone for the good comments, this will really push me to see how big a difference we can make in the bill. Any extra ideas are welcome!

[poway_seller]

Besides the few rogue smart-A$$ comments (pool skating, oxymoron, etc), I’m pleased there has been so many helpful comments. Thank you.

My wife thought I was nuts yesterday when I came home from work and unplugged all chargers, TVs in extra rooms, told her to shut lights behind her, etc. Who knows how long it will last, but I told her I wanted to try this for a full billing cycle (which starts Feb 16, we are just getting a head start). I’ll be sure to update the forum when that bill arrives.

Here is the electric portion of my last bill (note that the cost of going over 130% of the baseline is what really kills me (jumps from $0.064 to $0.22). 60% of my usage last month was over 200% (it would be very hard for me to completely remove usage over these baselines)

ELEC/DR 12-16 to 01-16
1,792 kWh $304.31

Baseline Allowance 357 kWh
Baseline 357 kWh @ $.04363 16/ 31 Days
101% – 130% of Baseline 107 kWh @ $.06380
131% – 200% of Baseline 250 kWh @ $.21818
Over 200% of Baseline 1,078 kWh @ $.23818

On top of the base kWh charge, there are $102 of “electric energy” charge added for the amount over 130%. Total Electric Charges 451.14

Additional Comment from above replies:

– SOLAR: house is not faced in ideal direction for solar, and even if it was, it would be MAJOR expense that would take 20+ years to breakeven. I looked into it on purchase
– SQ FT: I realize it is a lot of house, but we moved from 3100sf to get here, so that was by choice and I wouldn’t change it. Family is growing and we all value our space.
– LIGHTS: we’re running 65 watt bulbs mostly. Rooms where I don’t think dimming is of benefit I will probably switch to CFL and remove dimmers (bathroom, closet, office, halls). Some rooms require dimmers (bedrooms, kitchen, theater) so bulbs can’t go to CFL.
– FRIDGES: there are also two extra fridges in the garage that came with the house (those cool Gladiator freezer/fridge ones) that I do not use do to cost. The WINE fridge is full, we are not big drinkers, but I’d fear the wine would go bad if it wasn’t used. The BEVERAGE fridge holds overflow wine, sake, vodka, and sodas. It is used daily (sometimes though my wife accidently leaves the door cracked open). Kitchen fridge is likely NOT all that efficient (anyone know about the GE Monogram line?)
– SMALL APPLIANCES: I’ve shut off the dehumidifiers. I think I’ll add timers to them so they are not on 24 hours/day, but maybe half the day only.
– POOL PUMP: when it is really cold out like now I can reduce the filter hours, right? Maybe down to 3.5/day, from the 5-6/day needed in warm weather. Anyone know the recommendation? We NEVER use heater (only blue cover in summer)
– HOT WATER HEATER: it is in an inside room, so same temp as house (housed with washer/dryer, furnaces, soft water system). It is 75 gallon, not sure the setting, but no insulation blanket.
– FIREPLACE: none in the house.
– Other monthly house charges to deal with: Water ($300+/-), Landscaper ($250), Pool Guy ($80), TV/Internet/Phone ($210)

Thanks everyone for the good comments, this will really push me to see how big a difference we can make in the bill. Any extra ideas are welcome!

[poway_seller]

Besides the few rogue smart-A$$ comments (pool skating, oxymoron, etc), I’m pleased there has been so many helpful comments. Thank you.

My wife thought I was nuts yesterday when I came home from work and unplugged all chargers, TVs in extra rooms, told her to shut lights behind her, etc. Who knows how long it will last, but I told her I wanted to try this for a full billing cycle (which starts Feb 16, we are just getting a head start). I’ll be sure to update the forum when that bill arrives.

Here is the electric portion of my last bill (note that the cost of going over 130% of the baseline is what really kills me (jumps from $0.064 to $0.22). 60% of my usage last month was over 200% (it would be very hard for me to completely remove usage over these baselines)

ELEC/DR 12-16 to 01-16
1,792 kWh $304.31

Baseline Allowance 357 kWh
Baseline 357 kWh @ $.04363 16/ 31 Days
101% – 130% of Baseline 107 kWh @ $.06380
131% – 200% of Baseline 250 kWh @ $.21818
Over 200% of Baseline 1,078 kWh @ $.23818

On top of the base kWh charge, there are $102 of “electric energy” charge added for the amount over 130%. Total Electric Charges 451.14

Additional Comment from above replies:

– SOLAR: house is not faced in ideal direction for solar, and even if it was, it would be MAJOR expense that would take 20+ years to breakeven. I looked into it on purchase
– SQ FT: I realize it is a lot of house, but we moved from 3100sf to get here, so that was by choice and I wouldn’t change it. Family is growing and we all value our space.
– LIGHTS: we’re running 65 watt bulbs mostly. Rooms where I don’t think dimming is of benefit I will probably switch to CFL and remove dimmers (bathroom, closet, office, halls). Some rooms require dimmers (bedrooms, kitchen, theater) so bulbs can’t go to CFL.
– FRIDGES: there are also two extra fridges in the garage that came with the house (those cool Gladiator freezer/fridge ones) that I do not use do to cost. The WINE fridge is full, we are not big drinkers, but I’d fear the wine would go bad if it wasn’t used. The BEVERAGE fridge holds overflow wine, sake, vodka, and sodas. It is used daily (sometimes though my wife accidently leaves the door cracked open). Kitchen fridge is likely NOT all that efficient (anyone know about the GE Monogram line?)
– SMALL APPLIANCES: I’ve shut off the dehumidifiers. I think I’ll add timers to them so they are not on 24 hours/day, but maybe half the day only.
– POOL PUMP: when it is really cold out like now I can reduce the filter hours, right? Maybe down to 3.5/day, from the 5-6/day needed in warm weather. Anyone know the recommendation? We NEVER use heater (only blue cover in summer)
– HOT WATER HEATER: it is in an inside room, so same temp as house (housed with washer/dryer, furnaces, soft water system). It is 75 gallon, not sure the setting, but no insulation blanket.
– FIREPLACE: none in the house.
– Other monthly house charges to deal with: Water ($300+/-), Landscaper ($250), Pool Guy ($80), TV/Internet/Phone ($210)

Thanks everyone for the good comments, this will really push me to see how big a difference we can make in the bill. Any extra ideas are welcome!

[ibjames]

[quote=flu][quote=FoamFinger1]A few tricks I used on the old man’s house, cut the bill in half.

1. Get rid of second fridge. Any money saved purchasing discount food stuff will be off set by freezer/fridge exps.

2. Dial back pool pump hours. No heat on pool during off season.

3. Check temp on hot water tank. Usually too hot wasting energy. Also, install insulating blanket.

4. The misc electronics; radios, stereos, tv, vcr ect, should be plugged to a power strip, then all power shut off. Trickle or phantom loads draw small amounts b/c of memory & remote functions… Just flip the switch to that group of electronics you will use, otherwise keep off all other times.

5. Cooling a hot house requires way too much energy. Install plenty of attic fans. Close off extra rooms.

6. Run clothes/dish washers on cold water cycle. Hang more clothes to dry. (you have an extra warm house yes?)

7. Window covering for the sunny side of house should block heat and light. Check seals for leaks/drafts.

8. A three story? With proper venting, you should be able to create a draft to cool the house.

9. You could itemize each appliance down to each light bulb, or do a room by room. Close off one room, no use what so ever. Unplug everything, measure the difference month to month. isolate exps.

10. Compare old useage from one two three years. When did it spike? New tv’s are energy hogs. Anything with a remote or memory or digital function will draw a trickle when not in use.

Good Luck.

[/quote]

To add #3, consider buying a hot water heater blanket from home depot or something, especially if the tank is outside the house in a garage or external closet.

For allergies, i use this. Loud, but does wonders.

http://www.kaz.com/kaz/store/product/7f1169d626a00b7fe58467e101e1dd68/

I wouldn’t recommend a ionizing filter (the kind you find in sharper image).
[/quote]

I have one in the bedroom and one in the living room, you can set them on schedules also so they aren’t on all the time

[ibjames]

[quote=flu][quote=FoamFinger1]A few tricks I used on the old man’s house, cut the bill in half.

1. Get rid of second fridge. Any money saved purchasing discount food stuff will be off set by freezer/fridge exps.

2. Dial back pool pump hours. No heat on pool during off season.

3. Check temp on hot water tank. Usually too hot wasting energy. Also, install insulating blanket.

4. The misc electronics; radios, stereos, tv, vcr ect, should be plugged to a power strip, then all power shut off. Trickle or phantom loads draw small amounts b/c of memory & remote functions… Just flip the switch to that group of electronics you will use, otherwise keep off all other times.

5. Cooling a hot house requires way too much energy. Install plenty of attic fans. Close off extra rooms.

6. Run clothes/dish washers on cold water cycle. Hang more clothes to dry. (you have an extra warm house yes?)

7. Window covering for the sunny side of house should block heat and light. Check seals for leaks/drafts.

8. A three story? With proper venting, you should be able to create a draft to cool the house.

9. You could itemize each appliance down to each light bulb, or do a room by room. Close off one room, no use what so ever. Unplug everything, measure the difference month to month. isolate exps.

10. Compare old useage from one two three years. When did it spike? New tv’s are energy hogs. Anything with a remote or memory or digital function will draw a trickle when not in use.

Good Luck.

[/quote]

To add #3, consider buying a hot water heater blanket from home depot or something, especially if the tank is outside the house in a garage or external closet.

For allergies, i use this. Loud, but does wonders.

http://www.kaz.com/kaz/store/product/7f1169d626a00b7fe58467e101e1dd68/

I wouldn’t recommend a ionizing filter (the kind you find in sharper image).
[/quote]

I have one in the bedroom and one in the living room, you can set them on schedules also so they aren’t on all the time

[ibjames]

[quote=flu][quote=FoamFinger1]A few tricks I used on the old man’s house, cut the bill in half.

1. Get rid of second fridge. Any money saved purchasing discount food stuff will be off set by freezer/fridge exps.

2. Dial back pool pump hours. No heat on pool during off season.

3. Check temp on hot water tank. Usually too hot wasting energy. Also, install insulating blanket.

4. The misc electronics; radios, stereos, tv, vcr ect, should be plugged to a power strip, then all power shut off. Trickle or phantom loads draw small amounts b/c of memory & remote functions… Just flip the switch to that group of electronics you will use, otherwise keep off all other times.

5. Cooling a hot house requires way too much energy. Install plenty of attic fans. Close off extra rooms.

6. Run clothes/dish washers on cold water cycle. Hang more clothes to dry. (you have an extra warm house yes?)

7. Window covering for the sunny side of house should block heat and light. Check seals for leaks/drafts.

8. A three story? With proper venting, you should be able to create a draft to cool the house.

9. You could itemize each appliance down to each light bulb, or do a room by room. Close off one room, no use what so ever. Unplug everything, measure the difference month to month. isolate exps.

10. Compare old useage from one two three years. When did it spike? New tv’s are energy hogs. Anything with a remote or memory or digital function will draw a trickle when not in use.

Good Luck.

[/quote]

To add #3, consider buying a hot water heater blanket from home depot or something, especially if the tank is outside the house in a garage or external closet.

For allergies, i use this. Loud, but does wonders.

http://www.kaz.com/kaz/store/product/7f1169d626a00b7fe58467e101e1dd68/

I wouldn’t recommend a ionizing filter (the kind you find in sharper image).
[/quote]

I have one in the bedroom and one in the living room, you can set them on schedules also so they aren’t on all the time

[ibjames]

[quote=flu][quote=FoamFinger1]A few tricks I used on the old man’s house, cut the bill in half.

1. Get rid of second fridge. Any money saved purchasing discount food stuff will be off set by freezer/fridge exps.

2. Dial back pool pump hours. No heat on pool during off season.

3. Check temp on hot water tank. Usually too hot wasting energy. Also, install insulating blanket.

4. The misc electronics; radios, stereos, tv, vcr ect, should be plugged to a power strip, then all power shut off. Trickle or phantom loads draw small amounts b/c of memory & remote functions… Just flip the switch to that group of electronics you will use, otherwise keep off all other times.

5. Cooling a hot house requires way too much energy. Install plenty of attic fans. Close off extra rooms.

6. Run clothes/dish washers on cold water cycle. Hang more clothes to dry. (you have an extra warm house yes?)

7. Window covering for the sunny side of house should block heat and light. Check seals for leaks/drafts.

8. A three story? With proper venting, you should be able to create a draft to cool the house.

9. You could itemize each appliance down to each light bulb, or do a room by room. Close off one room, no use what so ever. Unplug everything, measure the difference month to month. isolate exps.

10. Compare old useage from one two three years. When did it spike? New tv’s are energy hogs. Anything with a remote or memory or digital function will draw a trickle when not in use.

Good Luck.

[/quote]

To add #3, consider buying a hot water heater blanket from home depot or something, especially if the tank is outside the house in a garage or external closet.

For allergies, i use this. Loud, but does wonders.

http://www.kaz.com/kaz/store/product/7f1169d626a00b7fe58467e101e1dd68/

I wouldn’t recommend a ionizing filter (the kind you find in sharper image).
[/quote]

I have one in the bedroom and one in the living room, you can set them on schedules also so they aren’t on all the time

[Author]

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