- This topic has 24 replies, 11 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 10 months ago by spdrun.
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January 21, 2013 at 12:18 PM #20479January 21, 2013 at 12:21 PM #758154SD RealtorParticipant
harbor freight tools are definitely cheap. I found them in Texas a few years back on some property purchases. Definitely priced really well but the quality of them kind of sucks. Still if you are looking for something you need and will not need it much at all, it is a good deal.
January 21, 2013 at 12:30 PM #758156CoronitaParticipant[quote=SD Realtor]harbor freight tools are definitely cheap. I found them in Texas a few years back on some property purchases. Definitely priced really well but the quality of them kind of sucks. Still if you are looking for something you need and will not need it much at all, it is a good deal.[/quote]
I’m totally into the cheap crap throwaway stuff now. Once upon a time I use to try to buy higher quality stuff, but you know what? The cheap crap I would probably end up going through more sets, but still come out ahead. Kinda goes with the POS project car…If I blow up the engine, throw it away and get another…heh heh…
January 21, 2013 at 12:31 PM #758158symParticipantLike SD Realtor’s comment, definitely a good place to pick up items you don’t mind tossing out at the end of the project. e.g. paint brushes, drill bits, extenders etc. This said did find some useful tools that lasted more than a project – multi function tool, electrical testers, garden tools etc.
Be aware you might make several trips once you find the store 🙂 Also check the frequent 20% coupons online/mailers.
January 21, 2013 at 12:34 PM #758160CoronitaParticipantNeed a ball joint separator…
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99849.html
January 21, 2013 at 12:38 PM #758162symParticipantOften times walking through the stores, I find items that I did not even know existed. HF has definitely expanded my gadget awareness….
January 21, 2013 at 3:42 PM #758175ucodegenParticipant[quote=SD Realtor]harbor freight tools are definitely cheap. I found them in Texas a few years back on some property purchases. Definitely priced really well but the quality of them kind of sucks. Still if you are looking for something you need and will not need it much at all, it is a good deal.[/quote]With Harbor Freight, I found that the quality is all over the place. Some very good, some crap. The wrenches are actually pretty good. SnapOn, Matco, Sears make theirs out of Tool Steel. The hand wrenches @ Harbor Freight are made out of Chrome Vanadium.. much tougher than Tool Steel (Chrome Vanadium is what impact wrench sockets are made out of, as well as the frames of old model T Fords – which is why the body of a ‘T’ would rot away, but the frame would still be good).
January 21, 2013 at 3:45 PM #758177ucodegenParticipant[quote=flu]Need a ball joint separator…
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99849.html%5B/quote%5DMight work.. though I don’t like the threads on the ‘screw’ portion. Threads used for anything generating high pressures should be square profile, no triangular profile. Triangular profiles tend to wear out or break very quickly under high repetitive turning stresses. Suggest liberally lubing the screw with high pressure axle grease (lithium or moly-lube) before using. Work it through the female threaded segment as well..
I have tried this type without too much success.. so I tend to use pickle-forks instead.
January 21, 2013 at 4:02 PM #758179ucodegenParticipant[quote=flu]If I blow up the engine, throw it away and get another…heh heh…[/quote]Build it right.. and it won’t blow up. Take a look at con-rods and pistons on the Miatas.. weak point when increasing horsepower & revs. Then start looking at the head gasket sealing. From what I remember, Miatas use an open deck block.. which does not like too much ‘boosting’.
January 21, 2013 at 4:05 PM #758181CoronitaParticipant[quote=ucodegen][quote=flu]If I blow up the engine, throw it away and get another…heh heh…[/quote]Build it right.. and it won’t blow up. Take a look at con-rods and pistons on the Miatas.. weak point when increasing horsepower & revs. Then start looking at the head gasket sealing. From what I remember, Miatas use an open deck block.. which does not like too much ‘boosting’.[/quote]
I need to work on the suspension first… And after lighten the car up…No need for me to add power to the engine (yet)….
I just might blow up a stock motor just because I have no idea what the condition was beforehand.
Nice thing about autozone is they loan out a lot of tools for 90 days. Except certain things they don’t have.
January 21, 2013 at 4:08 PM #758182CoronitaParticipant[quote=ucodegen][quote=flu]Need a ball joint separator…
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99849.html%5B/quote%5DMight work.. though I don’t like the threads on the ‘screw’ portion. Threads used for anything generating high pressures should be square profile, no triangular profile. Triangular profiles tend to wear out or break very quickly under high repetitive turning stresses. Suggest liberally lubing the screw with high pressure axle grease (lithium or moly-lube) before using. Work it through the female threaded segment as well..
I have tried this type without too much success.. so I tend to use pickle-forks instead.[/quote]
The brute force hammer on pickle fork is next for me if this doesn’t work.
You might be right on the longevity on the above tool.
Then again, I’m not planning on using an impact wrench on it.
January 21, 2013 at 6:45 PM #758192HobieParticipantA strong air impact is your friend..
January 21, 2013 at 7:45 PM #758196ucodegenParticipant[quote=flu]I just might blow up a stock motor just because I have no idea what the condition was beforehand.[/quote]I would do a quick check of the bottom end of the engine.. pull a center main off and use plastigauge to see if you are in tolerance. Same with one of the con rods– don’t forget to retorque after putting the caps back on (after removing the plastigauge). Also take a light an shine it up the cylinder that has the piston closest to TDC.. check for scraping.. should still see hone marks.. could take the time to rotate the crank and check each cyl. Also do a compression test.
If all is good, should last provided you don’t over-rev and keep good oil in it. I would suggest running with oil level near the full mark on the dipstick (there are two marks.. one full and one ‘add’). Keeping it near full helps reduce likelihood of uncovering the oil pickup and pumping air on a hard corner.. until you get a proper windage tray. You may burn slightly more oil near the full level, but you will be more likely keep the engine together.
January 21, 2013 at 7:55 PM #758197ucodegenParticipant[quote=flu]You might be right on the longevity on the above tool.
Then again, I’m not planning on using an impact wrench on it.[/quote]If you look at time index 0:40, you will see that he did not lube the threads before using.. the silvery look on the threads is galling.. from high-pressure, non-lubed sliding.
January 22, 2013 at 5:53 PM #758276HatfieldParticipantThere’s some pretty good deals in this week’s flyer.
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